Reputable manufacturers and part choices

[Rus]

Hello all!

I am preparing for another set of repairs on my 535iA and have been putting together my part list. I suspect that my drive shaft center bearing has been the cause of some noise and vibration, so I'm shopping for a new one. So far I've come upon two brands on BMA with a rather large price difference. One is a MTC/Ronak part priced at 18.71. The other is a FEBI part priced at 46.78 AutohausAZ only carries the MTC brand. Is either of these a reputable brand that can be trusted? I'd hate to be dropping the exhaust again just to replace a part that was of poor quality.

I will also be replacing the O2 sensor. Is it a good idea to get the cheaper oxygen sensor without the OEM connector or should I just spend the extra 30 bucks and not worry about the whole soldering business?

Here's a list of parts and manufacturers that I'm looking at:
Front thrust arms: Lemforder w/ 750 bushings
Timing cover seals and V/C gasket: Reinz and MTC/Ronak
Motor Mounts: CRP
O2 Sensor: Bosch
Center Bearing: ???

Thank you in advance for all and any input.
Best regards.

[Kalevera]

The Febi part is probably good, but I'd get the OEM, which I recall as being lemforder. BMA might have it if you ask Patrick. The dealer will definitely sell it. One thing to consider is that when the center support goes, it's often an indication that the driveshaft is out of balance or has a bad joint. I've replaced center supports only to have it expose the vibration that caused the original support to disintegrate (it only becomes apparent when that part is replaced). So it might be smart to buy the Febi or whatever's cheapest.

Get the Bosch OEM sensor.

Use the reinz gaskets over the MTC ones -- be sure you're not just dealing with a leaking CPS mount bolt first, as removing either of the timing covers to replace gaskets can become a much more intensive job than one might want to do. CRP is another name for Continental (OEM).

best, whit

[Rus]

The Febi part is probably good, but I'd get the OEM, which I recall as being lemforder. BMA might have it if you ask Patrick. The dealer will definitely sell it. One thing to consider is that when the center support goes, it's often an indication that the driveshaft is out of balance or has a bad joint. I've replaced center supports only to have it expose the vibration that caused the original support to disintegrate (it only becomes apparent when that part is replaced). So it might be smart to buy the Febi or whatever's cheapest.

Get the Bosch OEM sensor.

Use the reinz gaskets over the MTC ones -- be sure you're not just dealing with a leaking CPS mount bolt first, as removing either of the timing covers to replace gaskets can become a much more intensive job than one might want to do. CRP is another name for Continental (OEM).

best, whit

I seem to have a leak at the upper timing cover bottom edge. The leak is on the passenger side of the engine and appears to be coming from the point where the upper timing cover, the head gasket, and the lower timing cover gaskets meet up. I remember tightening a loose bolt in this area when I was changing the water pump, but am not sure if it was the CPS bolt or something else that seemed loose. I've washed off all the oil on the front of the engine and the leak is pretty apparent...albeit I'm not sure which of the three gaskets is causing it. I wouldn't mind taking care of the CPS bolt once and for all while I'm tearing into this. What parts are required to fix this possible leak?

Also, the vibration that I think I'm getting is very slight and I don't think its related so much to the driveshaft as to suspension. What bothers me is the slight whining/ticking noise that becomes apparent closer to 80 mph or so. It seems to increase with speed and comes from the center console beneath the e-brake. The transmission has had a recent filter service and has fresh fluid in it (red in color, smells good). I'd like to blame something simple like the center bearing. Sorry for the unclear symptom description.

As far as the sensor goes, I'm not considering anything other than OEM Bosch. My dilemma is between the sensor that comes with the connector attached and the one that just comes with the bare wires, thus requiring soldering on the original connector.

As always, advice and opinion are appreciated.

[Rus]

<<Bump from second page>>

[Bill R.]

Koalamotorsports page for info on resealing the bolt on the front of the timing cover that typically leaks and looks like the gasket... I woulda thunk that Lowell would mention this link:)
(http://koalamotorsport.com/article-m30oilleaks.asp)




I seem to have a leak at the upper timing cover bottom edge. The leak is on the passenger side of the engine and appears to be coming from the point where the upper timing cover, the head gasket, and the lower timing cover gaskets meet up. I remember tightening a loose bolt in this area when I was changing the water pump, but am not sure if it was the CPS bolt or something else that seemed loose. I've washed off all the oil on the front of the engine and the leak is pretty apparent...albeit I'm not sure which of the three gaskets is causing it. I wouldn't mind taking care of the CPS bolt once and for all while I'm tearing into this. What parts are required to fix this possible leak?

Also, the vibration that I think I'm getting is very slight and I don't think its related so much to the driveshaft as to suspension. What bothers me is the slight whining/ticking noise that becomes apparent closer to 80 mph or so. It seems to increase with speed and comes from the center console beneath the e-brake. The transmission has had a recent filter service and has fresh fluid in it (red in color, smells good). I'd like to blame something simple like the center bearing. Sorry for the unclear symptom description.

As far as the sensor goes, I'm not considering anything other than OEM Bosch. My dilemma is between the sensor that comes with the connector attached and the one that just comes with the bare wires, thus requiring soldering on the original connector.

As always, advice and opinion are appreciated.

[Rus]

Thank you Bill. That was exactly what I needed. It sure looks like the upper timing cover gasket though. I'll order them anyway and try sealing up the CPS bolt first.

[bfd]

Hello all!

I am preparing for another set of repairs on my 535iA and have been putting together my part list. I suspect that my drive shaft center bearing has been the cause of some noise and vibration, so I'm shopping for a new one. So far I've come upon two brands on BMA with a rather large price difference. One is a MTC/Ronak part priced at 18.71. The other is a FEBI part priced at 46.78 AutohausAZ only carries the MTC brand. Is either of these a reputable brand that can be trusted? I'd hate to be dropping the exhaust again just to replace a part that was of poor quality.

I will also be replacing the O2 sensor. Is it a good idea to get the cheaper oxygen sensor without the OEM connector or should I just spend the extra 30 bucks and not worry about the whole soldering business?

Here's a list of parts and manufacturers that I'm looking at:
Front thrust arms: Lemforder w/ 750 bushings
Timing cover seals and V/C gasket: Reinz and MTC/Ronak
Motor Mounts: CRP
O2 Sensor: Bosch
Center Bearing: ???

Thank you in advance for all and any input.
Best regards.

A couple, first check the condition of your flex disc (guibo). If its old, the rubber could be causing your vibration.

Next, I'm probably going to get flamed, but whe you state you're looking for new front thrust arm, get yourself Lemforder arms AND BOGE 750i bushing.

I state this because it appears that although BMA sells lemforder control arms, the bushings may NOT be *true* 750i bushings. The bushings that BMW specs for the E32 750i is made by Boge, with green insert, and are fluid filled.

However, it appears BMA sells its lemforder arms with either Meyle or Sach, neither of which appear to be liquid filled. Does it make a difference? Maybe. Some here on this board have grumbled that their "750i bushing" does not last and have instead gone to either polyurethrane or E34 M5 bushing (a more expensive option, which I understand are not liquid filled, but is suppose to be a harder material.)

Some have mentioned that Sach and Boge are the same company, but its not clear that they sell the same part.

IF you haven't already bought your parts, it would be wise to spec Lemforder control arms and BOGE 750i control arm bushings, p/n: 31 12 1 136 607.

Btw, in 1989 BMW issued a thrust arm service bulletin that specified the 750i bushing, p/n 31 12 1 136 607, and warned that hydraulic fluid would leak if improperly installed:

Service Information Bulletin Number 31 02 88 (1782), January 1989
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Thrust Rod Bushing
Model: 5 Series (E-34) produced up to mid-November 1988
Situation: E-34 vehicles produced prior to the chassis numbers listed
below may not have the hydraulic thrust rod bushings installed,
which can be recognized by a plastic clip on each side of the
bushing.
[Translation: car *should* have hydraulic TRB which has white
plastic triangular-shaped washer around the hole on either end
of the bushing; early production cars may have non-hydraulic
versions.]

Model Chassis Number
----- --------------
525i 151 8697
525iA 208 4059
535i 217 3993
535iA 209 3600

Correction: Replace the rubber thrust rod bushings with the hydraulic style,
P/N 31 12 1 136 606. This should be done as part of the Pre-Delivery
Inspection on any vehicles that have not yet been sold, or during the next
workshop visit of cars that have already been retailed. [emphasis on
previous sentence here.]

Installation Information

For removal of thrust rods use special tools 88 88 6 312 140,
see S.I. 04 01 89 (1787).

To avoid damage to the hydraulic bushings, they must be installed very
carefully, by strictly following the guidelines below. Improper
installation will damage the rubber and cause the loss of hydraulic fluid.
If this happens, the bushing will not function as designed.

a) Use only BMW special tools (numbers 88 88 6 311 052 and 88 88 6 311 053)
in a hydraulic press to install the bushings. Any other method may cause
the bushing to [Oops!] to one side, damaging the bushing.
b) Before pressing in, align the arrow cast into the plastic clip of the
bushing to the indicator cast into the thrust rod.
c) Check the contact area of tool 88 88 6 311 052 on the bushing. Contact
must only be made on the outer metal sleeve of the bushing. If the tool
contacts the plastic clip, file a small amount of material off the points
of the clip to allow the tool to sit squarely on the metal sleeve without
contacting the plastic.
d) When re-installing the thrust rod assembly, care should be taken to
ensure that the plastic clips and rubber portion of the bushing are not hit
or damaged.

Good Luck!

[Rus]

Thanks for the thrust arm info. I'll definitely look into that. As far as the guibo goes, I don't have one since my car is auto.

This is the part I was looking at originally:
http://www.bmaparts.com/itemimages/31121141097kit.JPG

These have a green insert, but I guess its best to contact BMA and see if they can identify the manufacturer of the bushing.

Best wishes.

[t_marat]

I am resurrecting this old thread as I am about to buy those Lemfoerder arms with 750i bushing inserts from Bmaparts. There must be people who already bought those control arms with the 750i bushings. Are they boge 750i bushings or Meyle??

[Rus]

The bushings that were installed in my control arms were in fact Boge. No issues so far after about 5K miles on them.

[632 Regal]

I ended up getting the M5 bushings pressed in mine, the shimmy never went away with the 750 style bushings and I must drive hard because they didnt last long before giving up the ghost. No shimmy or probs with the M5 bushings. Worth the extra 30 bux, now I dont have to keep swapping them things out.


The bushings that were installed in my control arms were in fact Boge. No issues so far after about 5K miles on them.

[rcspencer1]

If you haven't already looked at this place, they have a great assortment of parts/accessories/etc: www.bavauto.com




Thanks for the thrust arm info. I'll definitely look into that. As far as the guibo goes, I don't have one since my car is auto.

This is the part I was looking at originally:
http://www.bmaparts.com/itemimages/31121141097kit.JPG

These have a green insert, but I guess its best to contact BMA and see if they can identify the manufacturer of the bushing.

Best wishes.

[John B.]

I ended up getting the M5 bushings pressed in mine, the shimmy never went away with the 750 style bushings and I must drive hard because they didnt last long before giving up the ghost. No shimmy or probs with the M5 bushings. Worth the extra 30 bux, now I dont have to keep swapping them things out.

How do the M5 bushings differ from the 750 style?

[Rus]

How do the M5 bushings differ from the 750 style?

The 750 bushings are fluid-filled. The M5 bushings are simply rubber. HTH