Qube
07-25-2006, 06:53 AM
EDIT: If someone can tell me the size of the two small bolts it would be perfect!
Is your rear end flailing more than you'd like? If so, take a few dollars out of your wallet and grab a pair of these...
RacingKing.ca Subframe Plates:
http://www.racingking.ca/Canada/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=693
The install is 'butt' simple and 'should' take no more than 15 minutes of even the clumsiest people. The primary install is here:
http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/subframe_plates.htm
After spending a lot of time with my E34 on the racetrack, we realised that even with thicker sway bars, the rear of the car was still showing a lot of body roll. The facts are that the subframe bushings are flexing a lot. The addition of a delrin plate under the bushing removes a lot of the flex allowing the BMW E34 to be more responsive on the road.
Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm
1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts. Take the car for a test drive.
Of course, I'd like to go into much more detail for those that have never lifted a wrench before, but still would like to tighten up their 'rear end'.
I'd like to offer modified instructions here:
Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm and XXmm, plus extensions for leverage
1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this, unless your car is lowered and you can't see what the heck you're doing.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate you removed (you don't need to remove the bushing) and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts but don't over-torque!. Take the car for a test drive.
Having said that, a picture says a thousand words...
Jack up the car as needed to see what's going on. Note that your jack point blocks access to the two small bolts so be smart about it :) Also, SAFETY FIRST! Although you don't need to jack in most cases (ground controls, anyone?), do ensure that you have the front wheels blocked before attempting this. The only reason I lifted so high was for pictures. Note the spare wheel underneath in addition to the blocking.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8138/1ff2.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1ff2.jpg)
This is where the plate is fastened.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5320/2hi2.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2hi2.jpg)
Note the two small XXmm bolts and one 22mm nut.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6972/3id7.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3id7.jpg)
Is your rear end flailing more than you'd like? If so, take a few dollars out of your wallet and grab a pair of these...
RacingKing.ca Subframe Plates:
http://www.racingking.ca/Canada/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=693
The install is 'butt' simple and 'should' take no more than 15 minutes of even the clumsiest people. The primary install is here:
http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/subframe_plates.htm
After spending a lot of time with my E34 on the racetrack, we realised that even with thicker sway bars, the rear of the car was still showing a lot of body roll. The facts are that the subframe bushings are flexing a lot. The addition of a delrin plate under the bushing removes a lot of the flex allowing the BMW E34 to be more responsive on the road.
Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm
1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts. Take the car for a test drive.
Of course, I'd like to go into much more detail for those that have never lifted a wrench before, but still would like to tighten up their 'rear end'.
I'd like to offer modified instructions here:
Procedure:
Socket set with 22mm and XXmm, plus extensions for leverage
1. Remove the 3 bolts holding the subframe bushing plate. You don't need to jack up the car to do this, unless your car is lowered and you can't see what the heck you're doing.
2. Install the bushing inserts on the plate you removed (you don't need to remove the bushing) and place the plate back in place.
3. Reinstall the plate and tighten the bolts but don't over-torque!. Take the car for a test drive.
Having said that, a picture says a thousand words...
Jack up the car as needed to see what's going on. Note that your jack point blocks access to the two small bolts so be smart about it :) Also, SAFETY FIRST! Although you don't need to jack in most cases (ground controls, anyone?), do ensure that you have the front wheels blocked before attempting this. The only reason I lifted so high was for pictures. Note the spare wheel underneath in addition to the blocking.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8138/1ff2.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1ff2.jpg)
This is where the plate is fastened.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5320/2hi2.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2hi2.jpg)
Note the two small XXmm bolts and one 22mm nut.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6972/3id7.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3id7.jpg)