Tranny service for my 95 530i

[Alpinewhite]

Hi all,

What is involved in Tranny maintenance? I saw this in bmwe34.net

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/transmission/automatic_flush.htm

Will this article hold good for my car? Mine is a 5 speed transmission. Not sure if it is ZF or GM.

Also how to check the Tranny fluid level? As far as I can see I dont see a dip stick.

Thanks
Arun

[Dr. evil]

good question
I heard that if you replace the transmission fuild you have to change the whole tranny out for a new one

[DanDombrowski]

Yes, you do. The transmission fluid sold in auto parts stores is strictly used for rapidly wearing the internals of transmissions. This is done to make the transmission lighter for racing.

You should probably bring your transmission down to me for a replacement. It will be $24,000 + 6% shop fees.

[632 Regal]

its a ZF 5hp18

the page is titled "flush" which should be titled "change" your supposed to only change the filter and only the fluid that comes out with it.

change the filter and fluid that comes out only (about 3.3 qts).
EDIT: 12/2018 Just did this on my 95, took out about 3 and put in appx 4.5 quarts and still not trickling out.

your trans uses dextron III and can be replaced with a synthetic such as royal purple.

the trans has to be checked when "level" & "running" from the trans plug on the pan and at a certain temperature which is hot. hot like it dont burn your hand on the trans pan but isnt cool, if you can hold your hand on it where its pretty damn uncomfortable your real close! the fluid should trickle out if correct.

enjoy!

[Tiger]

Lol

[Tiger]

Flush your tranny by drain, fill and drive two times about 25 miles is all you need before you finally drain, change filter and fill.

[632 Regal]

yes, that is the correct procedure to ruin the transmission.

its change it every 30k miles.


Flush your tranny by drain, fill and drive two times about 25 miles is all you need before you finally drain, change filter and fill.

[Alpinewhite]

Thank you Jeff,

I can still follow the procedure in Bruno's site even though my Transmission is different?


its a ZF 5hp18

the page is titled "flush" which should be titled "change" your supposed to only change the filter and only the fluid that comes out with it.

Pardon me. I still dont understand how to check the level. If trans plug is the same as drain plug the fluid will trickle down even if the fuid is low. Also where do I fill the trans oil? I dont see any trans oil cap!


the trans has to be checked when "level" & "running" from the trans plug on the pan and at a certain temperature which is hot. hot like it dont burn your hand on the trans pan but isnt cool, if you can hold your hand on it where its pretty damn uncomfortable your real close! the fluid should trickle out if correct.

Also how often should I do the trans fluid change this way? Bruno's site recomends this in every oil change.

Thanks,
Arun

[632 Regal]

I can still follow the procedure in Bruno's site even though my Transmission is different? yes



Pardon me. I still dont understand how to check the level. If trans plug is the same as drain plug the fluid will trickle down even if the fuid is low. Also where do I fill the trans oil? I dont see any trans oil cap! this is the fun part, the car has to be level, running and the right temperature (86-122 F). how to do this ehh? well either you know a trans dude at a shop (none of mine will even let the car in cause its a BMW) what I do is put the front on ramps with my safety device so it dont roll off http://www.bimmer.info/~regal632/safetyr%20ramp.jpg and http://www.bimmer.info/~regal632/safety%20ramp%20rear.JPG this chocks the front wheels. Now you need to somehow raise the rear so its level, safe and you can start the engine. there is a drain plug and a fill and check plug under and in the pan that sticks about 1.5 inches above the bottom of the pan *look at brunos pics* thats the deal to remove and check/fill I believe its an 17mm hex to remove.



Also how often should I do the trans fluid change this way? Bruno's site recomends this in every oil change. thats chancy, the ZF expert Kirt Koeller
(616)748-5735 was very firm on this, call him yourself. he says every 30k so thats etched in stone as far as I am concerned.

[Mendozart]

I think you might be confused on the drain and fill plugs. Drain plug is obviously the lower one and the fill plug is on the side. After draining fluid, dropping pan, cleaning pan, then you install new filter and pan. You fill the tranny through the fill hole (on the side of pan), till fluid comes out. install plug, start car and warm up till the pan is warm (as per 632 Regals instructions). At this point you remove the fill plug and start filling again till fluid starts seeping out, then install fill plug and you're ready to go. Hope this helps out. There's a very detailed write-up on www.pelicanparts.com. Even though it's a different tranny it's got some good tips.
EDIT I might have misled you on the locations of the fill and drain plugs. I have the 4L30e tranny and the pan is alot different. Maybe 632 Regal can give you better specifics on the location of the plugs. I just went to www.realoem.com and looked up your tranny. It's definately alot different than mine.

[Alpinewhite]

Thank you Jeff and Medozart. Now things are getting more clear.

Thanks
Arun

[632 Regal]

yes, that is the correct procedure to ruin the transmission.

its change it every 30k miles.

Haha Found this today a bit later than I originally posted it. The issue with flushing or draining and repeat refill is with the fluid being black. If it's black it contains all the burnt friction materials from the clutches and if you remove that then the trans will slip til it goes nowhere. If the fluid is not burnt or black you can change it out. Condomplating a fluid change because my trans cooler O rings are leaking and pretty sure the trans is low now. Got new o rings, coolant a belt and plan to do all the same time. The trans fluid check drain refill is being held back due to my son hogging my ramps for the past 1.5 years. Beside that I only need a pan gasket.

[632 Regal]

Did the filter change today. Only an 8 month delay and still no ramps. Did it on my sketchy driveway because I have a small leak up front near where I changed the "O" rings and keeps neutral slamming on inclines. Between what I lost replacing the rings and the tiny leak it was well over due. Took out a little over 3 quarts and put in about 4.5 quarts and still not trickling back out. Fluid was dirty but just fine, not black or smelling burnt. Not much on the magnets either so I am pretty confident this thing will go much farther than it has. Think it's at 219K ish.

New fluid observations: Shift into reverse or drive not noticeable except a slight RPM drop where before it would firmly go into gears. Shifts are definitely smoother now. Depending on which Dexron III was in there it could have been a base stock where the newer Dexron III G and Dexron III H are synthetic based, If the prior than it is very possible it could break down. Original fluids in our cars were base stock.


DEXRON-III[edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=DEXRON&action=edit&section=4)]

In 1993, GM released new Dexron-III fluid (GM Spec GM6417M and later GMN10055). It is generally backward-compatible with transmissions using earlier Dexron fluids or Type-A/Suffix-A fluid. However this specification failed to address a number of issues concerning long term durability such as shear stability and fluid oxidation. Dexron-III underwent a number of iterations in an attempt to address various shortcomings but was eventually replaced by new thinking i.e. DEXRON-VI.

DEXRON III G[edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=DEXRON&action=edit&section=5)]

Dexron III G was a synthetic automatic transmission fluid, especially developed for new (after 1997) and older (automatic) transmissions build by Ford and GM, as well as for many other brands. It is also suitable for power steering systems, some hydraulic systems and for rotary air compressors where an excellent low temperature fluidity is required.

DEXRON III H[edit (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=DEXRON&action=edit&section=6)]

Introduced in 2003, replaced III G. The H is an additive package for an updated friction modifier, and with an oxidatively stable base oil (group 2 or group 3). Oils according to this specification have longer maintenance of friction properties and anti-shudder properties, better foam control and a longer fluid life. Universal for all automatic transmission with and without controlled torque converter lockup clutch, the so called GKÜB for gear-clutch-lock.

Interestingly enough I found a reply from ZF that said:

Thank you for your interest in ZF Industries, Inc., especially in the program for ZF automatic transmissions for BMW 5-speed passenger car applications.

In regards to your question about factory recommendations for fluid changes in your ZF 5-speed automatic transmission, the transmission fluid is Dexron II D-21065 and should be changed every two (2) years or 30,000 miles (whatever occurs first). However, if you decide to change the fluid in your transmission more frequently, that may increase the life of the transmission and may enhance the shift behavior.

For whatever it's worth our old cars called for base stock fluid Dexron II which was later replaced with possibly some synthetic based Dexron III and fully backwards compatible with our requirements. Base fluid cars should be changed every 30K miles. Changing mine at 219+ (just pan and filter volume) should be a non issue. Dex III is backwards compatible and if you grab the right jug it might be synthetic. No matter what you choose if you just change out the filter and fluid that comes out you will be just fine unless it is black and smells burnt or like electronics.

[shogun]

ATF filling and checking is described in detail on the European transmissions website https://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/BMWtechinfo.htm

Nowadays these multipurpose ATF is quite good like the Castrol https://www.castrol.com/en_cc/ccsa/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/atf-multivehicle.html
Meets or exceeds General Motors DEXRON®-IIIH requirements
Meets or exceeds Ford MERCON® V and Ford MERCON® requirements
MERCON® V approved and licensed by Ford Motor Company
Meets or exceeds JASO-1A requirements

[genphreak]

Did the filter change today... For whatever it's worth our old cars called for base stock fluid Dexron II which was later replaced with possibly some synthetic based Dexron III and fully backwards compatible with our requirements. Base fluid cars should be changed every 30K miles. Changing mine at 219+ (just pan and filter volume) should be a non issue. Dex III is backwards compatible and if you grab the right jug it might be synthetic. No matter what you choose if you just change out the filter and fluid that comes out you will be just fine unless it is black and smells burnt or like electronics.

Good work. Here down under Dexron III fluids are plain old red mineral fluid. The best stuff BMW 83229407807, or ZF's own fluid. Note: ZF says don't use TE-ML_11B fluids (only TE-ML_11A, see link below) or it's LifeGuard stuff which meets 11A and 11B. Most of us use the Japanese synthetic multi vehicle ATF marketed under many brand names, which are sort of a dark yellow and state they are tested/approved as LA2634 or T71411 compliant. There are many euro brands like Liquimoly that make or re-brand what are likely quite similar product.

For anyone doing this for the first time, be sure to buy it in the bulk 20L containers as you need will need to do several flushes and one container will only do 2 flushes with a little left over. if the trans has seen some service (unless, as Regal says, it has become blackened- in which case replace what you removed and look for a replacement trans as you will need ones soon).

From the horse's mouth:
https://www.zf.com/global/media/en_zf/lubricantslists/TE-ML_11.pdf