Your Advice Wanted -- Shocks/Springs/Steering DIY

[Evan]

I'm about to start removing my shocks, springs, and steering components.

The replacements are Lemforder, H&R springs, and KYB shocks.

If you've done this job yourself can you offer me any tips or tricks that will make my week go easier?

Are there any parts you found you needed in the middle of the job so that i can order them now?

Cheers,
Evan

[Qube]

- presoak in some PBBlaster to prep for strut removal.
- something to cut or grind down bump stops (depending on height drop)
- unless you mated the KYBs with the H&Rs... spring compressor

Next!

[632 Regal]

ball joint removal tool.

[Ross]

Yes, as Qube says PB Blaster is tour friend.
Remember to let the car down before snugging up the through bolts for the thrust rods. This prevents them from being preloaded all the time and failing prematurely.
Since you are doing it all at once it goes pretty easy. Grab a six (twelve?) pack and get dirty.

[cmk]

I recently did mine (replaced all front arms, struts, hubs with OEM).

The hardest parts for me:
- poping the balls joints (broke 2 ball-joint removal tools)
- removing/tightening the top nut on the strut (i have the EDC III and the nut is recessed).

... then of course there was the fact that i put in a washer upside down and had to take the strut out, apart, flip the washer, reinstall - DOH!!!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE53&mospid=47410&btnr=31_0232&hg=31&fg=10
Part 8 is a bevelled washer.

[Cooper24]

I just finished replacing the front end on my 525 this last weekend. Hardest part was removing the ball joints. I wish I had went to Advance Auto first before trying to remove them by pounding to death with hammer and forks. They had a free rental with about five different types of pullers. I picked one out, tightened it up, struck the part of the tool over the threaded portion of the ball joint twice and it popped right out. Send me a private email with your email address and I'll send you some photos of the tool. I couldn't believe the difference after I was done with instaaling all the new components.

[yaofeng]

If you haven't got the air compressor and a set of air tools, get them now. You'll say to yourself, "why didn't I get them earlier?"

[Evan]

I have air tools so I'm confident about being able to get everything apart no problem.

I'll be taking photos of the whole process for the board. Thanks for any/all advice.. it helps a lot.

Evan

[jrobbo]

How much do the bump stops need to be cut down by? Is it just the same amount that the car has been lowered? I recently put eibach springs and koni shocks in the front of my car, but it bottoms out occassionaly, but I didn;t cut the bumpstops, could this be causing it?

John

[pundit]

How much do the bump stops need to be cut down by? Is it just the same amount that the car has been lowered? I recently put eibach springs and koni shocks in the front of my car, but it bottoms out occassionaly, but I didn;t cut the bumpstops, could this be causing it?

John
I'm about to fit Eibach Prokit springs and Koni sports dampeners all round to mine along with new upper & lower arms (Lemfoder), tie rods, centre link, sway bar links, spring pads, bump stops... yada, yada, yada.
I bought new bump stops which I'll cut down by 1.5" which is the amount of drop the Eibachs give at the front and 1" at the rear.

Incidently how does your M5 ride with the Eibachs and Konis?
As mine had factory sports suspension with tired shocks and front end, I'm actually expecting a slight improvement if anything. :)

[jrobbo]

The eibachs are softer than the stock springs on the M5. If I have the shocks wound up to fully firm, then the car bottoms out easily due to pump down, but i've been driving with the shocks set to full soft for the past week and I haven't bottomed out yet.

The car is now also a lot more prone to scraping the front lip on my driveway, I've got to crawl into my driveway now, sometimes I forget........

The ride has definately improved, the edge gets taken off small sharp bumps much more effectively now.

John