Trans Program!!!

[saj3n]

I know there are mounds of posts out there already, but just needed to relieve some stress.

Driving Fiance to interview about 20miles away, cruising at 50mph, then my revs shoot up, acceleration decreases, and I knew what was going to happen next, Trans program pops up on the display.

The car regained composure after I came to a slow stop at the light. but when taking off again, a "thud" is heard/felt leaving first gear. Not too sure either when/if it changes to 3rd or 4th, but I'm able to drive it around 45 still at 3000 rpm.

After this interview is over going straight to indy to have fluid levels checked (i pray its only fluid). and to top it off, while tense about the tranny, hit a series of smaller bunps, hear "clankity clanlk" and see a bolt shaped object get tossed behind the car... no telling what it was.

I'm sitting in the car now outside of this office, so if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

[632 Regal]

tow truck to indys? dont sound like a good thing to be driving it around like that!!!

[Qube]

Oh man... I don't want to me in your shoes... but we'll be here for you!

[bagpuss]

I know there are mounds of posts out there already, but just needed to relieve some stress.

The car regained composure after I came to a slow stop at the light. but when taking off again, a "thud" is heard/felt leaving first gear. Not too sure either when/if it changes to 3rd or 4th, but I'm able to drive it around 45 still at 3000 rpm.

I'm sitting in the car now outside of this office, so if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

Sounds similar to the symptoms I had with my 530i (see my post, dated yesterday for full story). If I were you I would get the fluid level checked first (presumably the 530i is not a sealed-for-life trans, so Dexron III would be ok rather than the special stuff needed for a sealed-for-life ?)

Secondly, and concurrently, I would get the codes from the EGS (Trans-ECU) read. Mine due to low fluid were 5,16 and 100.

I think the low fluid scenario can cause the revs not to match those required for the speed of the car as the fluid slops forward on stopping and backwards on acceleration, thus fooling the sensors and delivering the wrong information to the trans-ECU, and hence the fault codes registered.

If the fluid level checks out OK then pay more attention to the codes as they'll likely point to the problem (e.g. trans speed sensor). If its points to the speed sensor, there is a post on here somewhere which documents what the resistance should be (in Kilo-Ohms if OK and it'll be Mega-Ohms if its duff).

Dont panic - yet - I bet its fluid or speed sensor.
Cheers.

[saj3n]

I had the same codes as you. We tested just a few moments ago. Also tested while the car was being driven. It seems as if the trans speed sensor does not kick in/code does not show, until the car reaches about 600 rpm... Another 530i at the shop, we test drove this one too, had same codes, however, the trans speed sensor kicks in at 100 rpm... Indy thinks this may be the problem as the car runs perfect, shifts normally, until trans prog message comes on. After its reset, or car sits for a while and it resets itself, the transmission shifts smoothly. So I had him take a look at it, checking levels first, then dropping the pan to see if there's any metal around. If not, going to then replace the speed sensor, as this might be the reason it's also throwing the code 100....

[bagpuss]

I had the same codes as you. ....

Was fluid level OK ?

If it drives fine without the surging etc and the *only* problem is that it throws the trans program fault then it could be that it needs the updated eprom which has a wider tolerance (for older trans') for pressures and/or sensor values. About 20 bucks from the stealer.

I think if it is the speed sensor then you might get other symptoms, like a rev surge or drop off just before the trans program fault. However, you can check the resistance of the speed sensor to rule it in or out.

Cheers.

[saj3n]

OK, So here's what's been done:

1. Fluid checked, level ok, fluid pretty burned, but the level is ok.
2. The speed sensors were tested by measuing the ohms between the 2 sensors, they came out even (I guess that means they're ok)
3. The pan was dropped and there was no metal in the pan, giving the impression that so far it doesn't look like a mechanical problem, but can't say for certain.

I did get the rev surge right before the trans program fault the first time, revs shot up, and no acceleration.... Should I take the chance? its $200 with parts and labor for the sensor... I'm down $100 already.....

I'm at a loss! I need some advice!

[GoldenOne]

its really hit or miss...i personally would just bite the bullet and get a new speed sensor. This way you have a brand new one and you dont have to worry about it ever again (almost)....

[GoldenOne]

and hopefully that its the cure to your problems!

[saj3n]

I do hope that it is the cure. It just bugs me that theres no definitive answer...

[saj3n]

It was actually in limp mode, but only popped coming out of first. Thing is, when the error message is off, no popping, no erratic shifting, no noises, nothing.

[SnakeyesTx]

You mentioned burnt... like dark.. does it stink like clutch-pack material? IF you have gritty black silt, and it stinks like no tomorrow... then it looks like the clutch packs are wore out. If that's the case, you might be looking at a rebuild. You can have clutches wear out without metal shavings in the pan if that's the only parts worn out.

[saj3n]

Im going to do the speed sensor... We'll see when he gets the job done in a few days, speed sensor won't arrive till friday (hopefully sooner).

[GoldenOne]

your indy needs to get with carquest lol...they usually have a part to my mechanic within 3-4 hours of ordering, granted it being in stock...

[saj3n]

Yea usually he's pretty good about the parts, same day arrival, i guess this one may have been out of stock.

EDIT: from the bonbardment of recent posts regarding trans program, and being fixed with the sensor, I see why stock would be short.

[saj3n]

yea, its seems like this is the week for the forum's tranny issues!

[632 Regal]

make sure he changes the filter too! a partially clogged filter will snowball (dont google that word) into a clogged filter in no time. not enough trans pressure to apply the clutches properly.

im thinking if this dont work you might either want to take the chance on a used trans or get a rebuild from Kirt not from a trans shop. trans shops rebuilds are hit and miss at best. With me never tearing one down and doing one Im about as good as any trans shop around. I can do it....but will it work?

[saj3n]

yes, a new filter with new fluid & trans sensor is included in the $200 cost.... Yea same thought here... rebuilt..... I was quoted about $2200 for a rebuilt, but just cant see myself shelling out $3000 (including labor and all) at this time...

Decisions, decisions.... I guess I'll hope for the best, expect the worst, and prepare the fiance for the news...

[bagpuss]

OK, So here's what's been done:
.......
2. The speed sensors were tested by measuing the ohms between the 2 sensors, they came out even (I guess that means they're ok)
.........
I did get the rev surge right before the trans program fault the first time, revs shot up, and no acceleration.... Should I take the chance? its $200 with parts and labor for the sensor...

Rev surge sounds right for the fault codes you had, which were same as mine (although mine was fluid but symptoms and codes identical). However, I dont understand what you (he) means by the sensors 'coming out even'. I think what you need to do, to avoid nugatory expense, is to measure the ohms/resistance of individual sensors across the sensor's terminals (via the relavent connections at the trans-end connector or at a push, at the trans-Ecu-connector pinouts are on this site somewhere) and if the sensor(s) measure in the Mega ohms, rather than Kilo ohms then thats your definitive answer. Shame that the fault codes are so unspecific (relatively) as we both had the same codes thrown, yet mine was fluid level and yours is (potentially) sensor, hence the direct resistance measurement to narrow the field.

[saj3n]

Yea, basically what the indy stated was that he measured each sensor, i believe there's a trans speeds sensor and another speed sensor from engine(not sure what its called), and they are supposed to be "even" and came up as "even". Now, whether they both registered Mega Ohms or Kilo, i'm not too sure, as his info was a bit vauge.

It is strange though, I've read about 4 different stories on this forum, as well as a few on bmwe34.net, which all have the same codes, or similar symptoms, solved by either fluid or trans sensor.

Question for you guys, code 100. Indy said its "Gear Change Control", which may have been thrown because the trans speed sensor code was thrown, causing the transmission to not be able to change gears, or control the change properly, since it could not sense the vehicle speed. Sound about right?

[bagpuss]

Yea, basically what the indy stated was that he measured each sensor, i believe there's a trans speeds sensor and another speed sensor from engine(not sure what its called), and they are supposed to be "even" and came up as "even". Now, whether they both registered Mega Ohms or Kilo, i'm not too sure, as his info was a bit vauge.

Question for you guys, code 100. Indy said its "Gear Change Control", which may have been thrown because the trans speed sensor code was thrown, causing the transmission to not be able to change gears, or control the change properly, since it could not sense the vehicle speed. Sound about right?

Yep, I understand now. Both sensors feed into the ECU and I believe the amount of slip delivered to/by the trans is a computation of these 2 readings. Now, the fact that they are 'even' seems to suggest that the trans sensor is OK, rather than the culprit as to throw a fault IMHO, they would need to be 'out of sync' rather than in-sync, if that makes sense.

Your interpretation of fault 100 makes complete sense to me. In my list, fault 100 is 'Speed Control' and just the term in itself suggests that it cannot maintain correct speed control when compared with the speed that the computation of the sensor readings would indicate. i.e. it would accompany (by default) an error code that points to the speed sensor.

I'm no expert, but just working thru' the logic of the thing to arrive at the above conclusions. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable can confirm/deny the above.

Cheers.

[BillionPa]

the real question is, what was that bolt that flew from the car?

double check the brakes and suspension, could be unrelated to the tranny.

[saj3n]

the real question is, what was that bolt that flew from the car?

double check the brakes and suspension, could be unrelated to the tranny.

That I will find out. I figured that i'll do the transmission thing first in order to avoid incurring extra charges, and still not being able to drive the car out of the shop confidently. Indy states the part will be there by tomorrow... I guess we'll see then. Trans speed sensor, filter, and fluid.

[danzee]

When I had my Trans Program problem in my 1995 525i, it turned out that removing and reseating the Trans Computer fixed the problem.
I had gone through and checked and cleaned every connection I could get to and made reisitance mesurements from the selector switch connector in the console to the rest of the car (speed sensor, etc). I have those numbers if you want them.
Try pulling and reseating both computers before you go crazy with replacement parts.

[mattyb]

best of luck sajn3. just had mine rebuilt. similiaer issues but needed it at 250,000kms so not to bad i guess.

[saj3n]

Hmmm sounds interesting, like this may in fact be part of the problem. After reparing my front right strut mount last week, the srs airbag came on for the passenger side. Which im sure was due to spliced cables becoming disconnected (needed to be splice after a failed speaker installation, wrong wire cut). Originally after splicing the airbag light went away, no error codes, but after that strut mount replacement, its back. Which leads me to wonder, the wiring was cut/spliced behind the passenger's speaker kickpanel. Where I do believe the computer is located. I'll give this a shot pending the fluid refill/filter replacement/speed sensor replacement.

[Jon K]

You find out what flew out of the car jasen? I am going to be working on my car tonight @ N Front St and Spring Garden in a garage with a couple 400+ hp E30's if you want to stop by.

[saj3n]

I had Armand at VAC take a look. so he's checking on that while waiting for that sensor to arrive. Hopefully it has come already, and he's just out testing the car (I want it back today!). Once he finishes though, I'll drive it up there, maybe mess with the trans computer, reseating it, trying some other options as neither he nor I believe that it's mechanical.

[saj3n]

looks like it'll be monday, sensor didn't arrive at shop today, so i have to sit on things for the weekend... *sigh*

[saj3n]

When I had my Trans Program problem in my 1995 525i, it turned out that removing and reseating the Trans Computer fixed the problem.
I had gone through and checked and cleaned every connection I could get to and made reisitance mesurements from the selector switch connector in the console to the rest of the car (speed sensor, etc). I have those numbers if you want them.
Try pulling and reseating both computers before you go crazy with replacement parts.

NO GO!!!! Trans program is still there I want to try this reseating procedure, I will go out there and check now. any other sugestions?

[saj3n]

Trans computer is not behind hte passenger kick panel speaker in my car. Nothing back there but a orangish colored relay. Not sure where else to look. I want to try and take care of this, or do more troubleshooting, before I head to work. Where would the fuses for the transmission computer be located at as well?

[saj3n]

Found a 50AMP fuse in same box on passenger side, in engine bay, which is blown. Not sure if this is the cause, going to replace and give it a shot. If this may be a valid cause, please hesitate not to informe me. :)

[bagpuss]

Found a 50AMP fuse in same box on passenger side, in engine bay, which is blown. Not sure if this is the cause, going to replace and give it a shot. If this may be a valid cause, please hesitate not to informe me. :)

Hmm, I might have lost track of this, but just to recap, you said you were having the speed sensor done due to the 3 fault codes read and the fact that the trans sensor and the speed sensor were 'even' (at which point I thought that being 'odd' would have been more likely for a duff trans speed sensor), then I lost it....., did you get the trans speed sensor done yet ?

[saj3n]

Yes, Trans Speed Sensor was done, fluid topped off, and filter replaced.

[bagpuss]

Yes, Trans Speed Sensor was done, fluid topped off, and filter replaced.

And presumably that didnt fix it .... Hmmm, well any duff fuses could obviously benefit from being replaced. So after the new sensor and a re-clear of the codes, do the same 3 fault codes come back again ? One thing I've read that might help is there is a new eprom mapping which is more tolerant as the pressure regs take a wider spec in later years. Since thats only a 20 bucks part from the stealer and a 5-min DIY job, it might be worth doing that, (assuming the only fault is the trans-program itself and not any slippage/surges etc) and whilst the EGS is apart to check it around the 'relay' area for joints that could benefit from a fresh solder re-flow (a 10 cents job). These things before the bigger bucks me thinx. Plus all the usual making sure the joints of plugs to trans are secure/clean and big plug to EGS etc.

[saj3n]

I had a bit of trouble locating the TCU. I checked the passenger kickpanel, behind speaker, and didn't find anything but a relay, which seemed ok. There are no surges or slippage at at. No noises either, except when it switches to limp mode. The fuse that I found was actually where the ECU is located in the engine bay... It was definitely blown. But after replacing nothing happened.

[bagpuss]

I had a bit of trouble locating the TCU. I checked the passenger kickpanel, behind speaker, and didn't find anything but a relay, which seemed ok. There are no surges or slippage at at. No noises either, except when it switches to limp mode. The fuse that I found was actually where the ECU is located in the engine bay... It was definitely blown. But after replacing nothing happened.

On mine, the EGS was inside the E-Box (4-phillips screws under the bonnet). You can remove it, open it up (couple torx screws and pair pliers for the bent over edges) and check the board for dry joints. You'll also see the chip that could do with replacing (28-pin eprom I believe). I could probably dig you out part numbers etc but dealer will have it listed under a bulletin (all the info is on this site).

[saj3n]

Ok, I did open the E-box, there were 3 modules in there, I reseated each one, that is also where I found the blown 50amp fuse. I'll have to check and see which module is the TCU. I wish I took a picture of the darn thing.

[bagpuss]

It will probably be a Bosch number with a secondary number of 'GS7.32' or similar. Mine was the middle one (between ABS and Engine ECUs) and you need to pull out the retaining clips with pliers to get it out. You can just about see it without removing it !

[saj3n]

I did see it, just went out to the parking garage at my job. I did see it and will take it out either tonight when I get home or first thing in the morning. I also performed the shogun reset. This issue baffles me as mechanically the tranny seems fine. Shifts fine (switched to M mode and shifted while around garage without a problem). When the pan was dropped, no metal at all. Hopefully the TCU will provide further insight. I do have a question though, where are the relays for the TCU located?

[bagpuss]

If all else seems right, it could easily be the later chip (eprom). Apparantly the tranny on 530i was the main culprit for needing a wider spec (remapped) as time went by - it was just too tight on tolerance and when exceeded pop goes the trans-program where otherwise everything else is fine and nothing else is going pop (a tolerance for tolerance sake). No idea where the TCU relays are but apparantly there is a relay inside the TCU and thats where the solder can go bad, needing reflowing. You'll also find a couple of relays (not sure if related to this issue) under or around the TCU and other ECUs in the E-Box.

[saj3n]

Thanks, I will see if I can call the dealer tomorrow and try to get an updated eprom to see if this solves the problem. Are they prerry aware of this issue or will it take a bit of searching and describing before they understand what I'm calling about? I'd hate to have the same chip sent to me. And just curious, about how long did it take for you to receive yours? I will be taking the TCU out tomorrow, after I stop by radio shack and pick up some more solder.

[bagpuss]

Should be aware (or at least were, years ago). Dunno about dealers over there, but here they tend to forget and concentrate on their new models ! The bulletin you need them to look at is # 24 04 95, dated April 1996 and the part number 'could' be 01 00 1469 310. I say could be as there may be different ones depending on your TCU. If it helps, my TCU was marked Bosch 0 260 002 309 GS7.32 on my 95 530i (which as you recall, threw the same error codes).

[saj3n]

In conjunction to this bulletin: 240495 MAY 96 A/T - Harsh Shifts Eased by New Control Module EPROM

I also found the one below:

240196 MAY 96 A/T - EGS Transmission Control Module EPROM

Both needed? or just the first?

[bagpuss]

My bet would be just the latest one. There's only one eprom in there as far as I could see so I would assume later revisions were cumulative (like XP service packs :-)).

[632 Regal]

this is in the most depth hard core info I have read with this issue! congrats to you both, this needs to go archives.

[bagpuss]

this is in the most depth hard core info I have read with this issue! congrats to you both, this needs to go archives.

lol - it could go on......lets call Guiness in !

[saj3n]

lol

[saj3n]

Will do, I'll confer with them as well to verify the latest chip ( service pack 2. :-P). This eprom update does seem promising.

[bagpuss]

Will do, I'll confer with them as well to verify the latest chip ( service pack 2. :-P). This eprom update does seem promising.

hehe...you said the trans speed sensor was promising...., should have read the ohms and saved some bucks - I told you 'even' was not what you're looking for and you should have bought my car instead - lol. Anyway, I hope it works out, at least you've 'eliminated' much of it now. The chip was gonna be my next step but didn't need it in the end. Let us know.....and keep it quiet else Mr. Guiness will be turning up !

[saj3n]

Hehe, Yea... the sensor seemed about right, due to the fact that when testing/reading codes in another 530i that had a "good" sensor, started recognizing the car's rpms @ around 100 vs my 600... so I thought that it'd be a go. Wish I did save the $$$ now, but never know, may ended up doing it in the end as well. That's the way I look at it now, everything so far has been eliminated, sensor, fluid, filter, metal shavings.... So we'll see.

Oh, and how much are you selling your's for? the 540?

[bagpuss]

Oh, and how much are you selling your's for? the 540?

Its on Ebay now. Making nearly 3 grand (quid) last time I checked which is probably about half what it would make over there ! Its great buying 'em here, just not so good selling. 'Bout time they converted US roads to the *correct* side, then I could flog 'em to you all and make millions..... I wish !

[saj3n]

lol! would be ncie to have though. :) and a great import/export business! :-P

[saj3n]

Update: On the way home about 10 minutes after driving I was on the highway, once I hit about 45mph, Trans program popped up. I made 1 stop before going home, there I decided to drive in S4 mode.... Trans program never showed up. Passed 50mph, driving enthusiastically. Any thoughts on this?

[Jon K]

Drop trans out of car, kick it in the mouth, flat bed it to my garage, drop off $1000, come back in a week after reading "How to Drive Stick Shift" :)

[saj3n]

yea? you'd do it for $1000? if so, sign me up today! :-P

[saj3n]

Update: Drove around today in S4 mode without a problem. No trans program message or any mechanical problems felt. I swung by the indy today to ask him about a fluid leak that I noticed when I walked to my car earlier, it looks/smells like transmission fluid to me. They said they would take a look at that. When I informed him about the S4 mode, and how no errors came up, he suggested that it was because there is an issue with 1st gear or the torque convertor which are both bypassed when the car is put into S4 mode.

Also ordered the updated eprom for the TCU, should arrive by Friday.

[bagpuss]

Nice to see the new eprom on the way :-) Sad to see you bottled out on the Guiness record for the deepest thread :-(

Not sure about your S4 mode, doesn't that still use the lower gears, hence its still changing gears ? (Not sure though as only ever used my manual option in 'A' mode). If I remember rightly when I've used my S mode (Drive), it doesn't drop into 5th, so doesn't that make S4 the same as S ? Also, it would use the torque converter still wouldn't it (isn't that the bit that effectively feeds out the slipped clutch, if you look at it from a 'manual' perspective ?).

In my mind its pointing to something in the TCU still, however, as Sports mode uses a different mapping, but what it is doing (I think) is bypassing the adaptive logic, so perhaps a double-pointer to TCU (its contents and its eprom) perhaps....

How about when you use Sports/Drive mode, does that hold good or still Trans out ?

[saj3n]

I'm not too sure either how the S4 (sports mode) works. I was going to tryin the lower gears (S2 & S3), but S4 continues to work. What the indy stated was that Sports mode (S4) bypasses the first gear, and automatically places it into 2nd and shifts from there up. I'm not too certain on this though. I too hope that the chip solves to problem. I don't mind driving around in S4, except that it eats even more gas.... :( And of course the fear of something still messing up.

[saj3n]

Reading up a bit, , states that S4 (sports) wont shift past 4th gear and holds the gears longer, but still uses 1st gear. Im throughly confused now.

[bagpuss]

When you say S4, you mean A/S switch on S and lever on 4 I take it ? What happens with S and lever on D(rive) ? (that one I'm pretty certain only runs gears 1 thru 4 with no adaptive mapping). If SD is different to S4 and indeed S4 bypasses gear 1 then he could well be correct on gear 1 being 'iffy'. Easy to test his logic with the SD test though (if I'm understanding correctly).

But if gear 1 was 'out' then wouldn't you get different error codes to those that you had ? (I had same as you, remember and gear 1 being out was never an issue).

[bagpuss]

Reading up a bit, , states that S4 (sports) wont shift past 4th gear and holds the gears longer, but still uses 1st gear. Im throughly confused now.

Yes, that was how I understood it. You had confused me earlier, now I'm un-confused again with this info.

[Jon K]

I forget which mode it is, but its like economy something or other that starts in 2nd

[saj3n]

Hmmm ok, I thought it was always in economy? My switch next to the shifter has A/M.

[BillionPa]

the A/M switch and dash showing A instead of E is for the newer transmission computers that do away with "economy", as that sounds "wimpy", and stick with Automatic as that sounds "convenient"

[bagpuss]

Hmmm ok, I thought it was always in economy? My switch next to the shifter has A/M.

Hmmm, mine (uk) has A/S (Adaptive or Sport) - perhaps A/M does the same thing for you guys over there - so what would MD be in your lingo, would that be SD (in mine) ? So I could select A2, A3,A4 or S2, S3, S4 in addition to AD or SD. Too many choices !

[Jon K]

I just put my clutch in - only choice I really have ;)

[Alexlind123]

I just put my clutch in - only choice I really have ;)

Hey now, stop gloating!

[saj3n]

Found out that after VAC replaced the seal, it seemed to be a little further in then usual, and so it caused trans fluid to leak. However, they said that when they checked it, today, that the fluid they put in on Monday smells burnt already. I don't see how this can be. I've been driving in S4 for this week without a problem. I don't know if that's the cause/reason for the burnt smell? Car still operates fine when in that mode.

[Jon K]

I can only guess but if the clutches are going/slipping it'll burn the fluid - but I am not well-versed in automatic transmissions.

[bagpuss]

So are they saying they didn't replace the seal properly and the fluid leaked ? I hope they're gonna fix that bit FOC for you. Burnt smell not sounding good, but dont forget it could still be from the old fluid as they only get to change out about half of it. Not time to panic yet, but nearly :-( I would still try the eprom as its on its way. Bit confused by the burning smell since the change, didn't they say first time that there wasn't a smell ? It would be shear bad luck if something mechanical has gone since the fluid change - read nigh on impossible.

[saj3n]

They did replace the seal FOC, and refilled with new fluid. I just got back from picking up the new eprom (drove a good 40 miles RT to the dealership in S4 without a problem). I'm going to grab a bite to eat, and then get started on the eprom. Should have an update in about 4 hours.

[bagpuss]

They did replace the seal FOC, and refilled with new fluid. I just got back from picking up the new eprom (drove a good 40 miles RT to the dealership in S4 without a problem). I'm going to grab a bite to eat, and then get started on the eprom. Should have an update in about 4 hours.

Cant wait to see if I've made you waste 20 bucks ! lol Lets hope it works ! It should at least give a wider margin in the mappings so hopefully it might just be enough to take you out of the 'error condition'........., not sure on that 'burnt fluid' though, that might want another look-see........

[saj3n]

I just removed the TCU unit from the car, figured i'd give it a little rattle, sounds like something is loose inside. I have manage to unscrew the hex screws from the unit, trying to figure out how ot get inside of it now as it has 6 metal tabs securing the base into place. Not sure of I should bend these tabs back, or if there is some magical way, like usual, to get into it. Here are a few pictures so far:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0208.jpg


The 6 metal tabs can be seen in this picture
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0211.jpg

[Bill R.]

all, just 3 sideshttp://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/transcomp%20copy.jpg





I just removed the TCU unit from the car, figured i'd give it a little rattle, sounds like something is loose inside. I have manage to unscrew the hex screws from the unit, trying to figure out how ot get inside of it now as it has 6 metal tabs securing the base into place. Not sure of I should bend these tabs back, or if there is some magical way, like usual, to get into it. Here are a few pictures so far:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0208.jpg


The 6 metal tabs can be seen in this picture
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0211.jpg

[saj3n]

Ok pulled back the tabs, opened it up, but it looks nothing like what you have pictured.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0213.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0212.jpg

Is this not the TCU?

Word enscribed (and on label) GETRIEBESTEUERUNG

[Bill R.]

m30 535 not your car. Check the backside of that relay for cracked solder joints






Ok pulled back the tabs, opened it up, but it looks nothing like what you have pictured.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0213.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/saj3n/IMG_0212.jpg

Is this not the TCU?

Word enscribed (and on label) GETRIEBESTEUERUNG

[saj3n]

No cracked solder joints, all still look good. TCU is now put back together, moment of truth.

[632 Regal]

anxiously awaiting.........

[saj3n]

No Go... :( It does shift smoother.... until Trans Program pops up again. Still drives ok without displaying any error messages when in S4 Sport mode, but regular drive still shows error....

I sent an email to Kirt yesterday, awaiting a reply. Will give him a call on Monday....

[632 Regal]

without re-reading 75 posts, did you check into the solenoids in the trans for 5th gear or overdrive? (not sure if there is one for the overdrive)

When the error pops up is the car just in 5th gear or when the overdrive comes in?

[saj3n]

The error pops up around 2nd-3rd gear, before I break 45 mph, either on a slow or fast take off. I personally didn't check the solenoids.

[bagpuss]

without re-reading 75 posts, did you check into the solenoids in the trans for 5th gear or overdrive? (not sure if there is one for the overdrive)

When the error pops up is the car just in 5th gear or when the overdrive comes in?

Dont all the solenoids have an error code associated with them ? Perhaps now the speed sensor and chip has been done, its time for a code reset/re-read. But there's still that smell eluded to earlier.......

[saj3n]

I need to see if there's someone near me with a reset tool/code reader... VAC has been helpful, but im sure will charge $75+ for diagnostics.

[bagpuss]

I need to see if there's someone near me with a reset tool/code reader... VAC has been helpful, but im sure will charge $75+ for diagnostics.

You can do the reset bit yourself by disconnecting battery for 20mins and touching the +- cables together (batt disconnected). Reconnect batt and errors should be cleared. That might save you half the diag fees.

[632 Regal]

bring that question up to Kirt when you talk to him. Sorry I cant be of much help here. So as I read through this entire thread I'll recap with quotes from you and Q's from me.

Ok, I did open the E-box, there were 3 modules in there, I reseated each one, that is also where I found the blown 50amp fuse. I'll have to check and see which module is the TCU. I wish I took a picture of the darn thing.

alrighty, now what caused the fuse to blow? I would venture to guess the whole TCU may have issues. Try to find a used TCU? Next would be to double check all wiring and connectors to and from the transmission, something caused that fuse to blow, this could possibly lead to the trans issue. Does Kirt know all these little details?

[bagpuss]

Does Kirt know all these little details?

And dont forget the little detail of the burnt fluid smell, not so little perhaps...

[saj3n]

True, I did that before. See the trans program clears once i turn car off, I actually don't have to wait at all, I know some have had to wait 15-20min before restarting in order for the error to be reset. In this case, I'm able to turn car off, press the instrument cluster's button next to where the error is displayed, and start the car. I have done the shogun reset as well, but I'll give a call to the shop to see if that'll save me any $

[bagpuss]

Clearing the message is *not* the same as clearing the fault code.

[BillionPa]

i dont have the error yet, but im sure the clutch packs are starting to slip from all the overly aggressive driving i have been doing since the suspension got upgraded.

[saj3n]

Oh yea, I do understand that.

[saj3n]

Thanks,

I can go ahead and look into grabbing a used TCU, maybe eBay will have something for me, or maybe classifieds. I wis hI had looked in that e-box a while back to see whether or not the fuse was blown before or after this issue occured. I did inform Kirt of the fuse issue and the burnt smell in the email.

[Bill R.]

Follow these procedures and see if it helps or makes it worse





True, I did that before. See the trans program clears once i turn car off, I actually don't have to wait at all, I know some have had to wait 15-20min before restarting in order for the error to be reset. In this case, I'm able to turn car off, press the instrument cluster's button next to where the error is displayed, and start the car. I have done the shogun reset as well, but I'll give a call to the shop to see if that'll save me any $

[saj3n]

Thanks, I'll give this a shot first thing in the morning.

[632 Regal]

holey crap! This is great information Bill. Now I wonder if I messed mine up when I unplugged mine long ago as Im positive the peddle varied during the "Re-training procedure".


Follow these procedures and see if it helps or makes it worse

[bagpuss]

Thanks, I'll give this a shot first thing in the morning.

Which morning was that then ? :-) Any newz ?

[saj3n]

Actually that was yesterday, Saturday, morning. But I didn't get a chance to try the procedure out. I will do so tomorrow, Monday, morning. Fingers crossed.

[aston_jag_tech]

saj3n. I was looking over the elec diagram and it has abs, eng sys, gear selector, a/m switch, brake light switch all giving some communication to the tcu. The diagram doesnt specify which signals are inputs or outputs. If you want a copy I can email you the schematic with great resolution.

The turbine and shaft sensors are shileded wires, check on that. Pin 15 and 23 NCA(color) at the TCU.
Also, maybe a ground problem for the tcu PINs 6, 28, 34 at the TCU.

Also, could you give a really good description of when the fault happens?
You said when cruising lost accel and engine reved, then you mentioned 2nd or 3rd gear at 45mph. Thanks man, and I hope the problem gets resolved quickly.

Check this out, found a sip control module networked to tcu and ecm. Has anyone heard of this?

-Scott

[saj3n]

Thanks for the information, I would appreciate that schematic, saj3n3@gmail.com , I will have a look into these issues tomorrow.

For clarification, when the issue first happened I was driving around 45mph when the revs shot up, and acceleration was briefly lost, and trans program error came on.

The following times when the trans program comes on is when driving around 45mph.

[saj3n]

I started to do this procedure and then spoke with Kirt Koeller today. I am going to reset computers, leaving Pos & Neg battery cables connected together (un hooked from battery terminals) overnight, instead of the usual 10-30min. I figured that since TCU values will be lost, I will re-do this procedure following the overnight reset.

So far his thoughts are that it may be the Solenoid issue or possibly Torque Convertor.

The reasons are as follows:

When the transmissions shifts in lower gears there is more room allowed for possible slipage of gears, however, when moving into the higher gears (4th, 5th), there is practically NO room for any TCU slipage. The transmission control unit (TCU) attempts to compensate for the slight slipage in higher gears, but can't. This can be caused by an actual torque converter problem, or learned values within the TCU which have not adjusted to the pressure change within the transmission system.

This is what I understood from our conversation over the phone, I believe it is all acurate, as I tried to write down everything said, but if there are any points of inconsistency, please advise

[saj3n]

Exactly what Kirt stated, regarding the exact codes

[aston_jag_tech]

So whats the word on the car????

[Bill R.]

which makes it that much more trouble to do the adaptation for the TCU, its easier just to unplug the TCU and wait the hour and then plug it back in.



I started to do this procedure and then spoke with Kirt Koeller today. I am going to reset computers, leaving Pos & Neg battery cables connected together (un hooked from battery terminals) overnight, instead of the usual 10-30min. I figured that since TCU values will be lost, I will re-do this procedure following the overnight reset.

So far his thoughts are that it may be the Solenoid issue or possibly Torque Convertor.

The reasons are as follows:

When the transmissions shifts in lower gears there is more room allowed for possible slipage of gears, however, when moving into the higher gears (4th, 5th), there is practically NO room for any TCU slipage. The transmission control unit (TCU) attempts to compensate for the slight slipage in higher gears, but can't. This can be caused by an actual torque converter problem, or learned values within the TCU which have not adjusted to the pressure change within the transmission system.

This is what I understood from our conversation over the phone, I believe it is all acurate, as I tried to write down everything said, but if there are any points of inconsistency, please advise

[saj3n]

Did this both ways. I disconnected the TCU and let that sit overnight and tried it in the morning. Same problem, Trans Program comes on right around the 35-45mph mark. I then disconnected terminals from battery, and connected together and left connected for 8 hours, tried it again, same thing.

[kesslerbmw]

subscribing.. I have trans issues, but only in the winter time..

[632 Regal]

easy one, either the wiring or selinoids. Change the filter and fluid that comes out with it yet?

subscribing.. I have trans issues, but only in the winter time..

[kesslerbmw]

easy one, either the wiring or selinoids. Change the filter and fluid that comes out with it yet?
I plan on doing this pretty soon, before the cold weather comes back around.

It has gotten worse each year.. 3 years ago, problems maybe once a month.. 2 years ago, maybe once every week, and last year it was almost every time I started the car.

When the car was warmed up there was never a problem.

Also if I run the car in sport mode it will put iself into safe mode within seconds..

wierd.

Also lately with the cruise on it will give little burst's of throttle like the speed sensor that activates the cruise isn't getting correct readings.. This only happnes every once a while and only happens once or twice when it does happen.

any help or guidance is greatly appreciated.

[saj3n]

Hmmm maybe throttle control for the cruise control issue?

[bagpuss]

Any news ? Be nice to have a happy ending to the story :-)

[saj3n]

*sigh* no happy story. Still waiting for better weather so I can get the chance to measure the voltage. If voltage is in fact ok.... then rebuild it is :( I should know something this weekend. Kirt has been extremely helpful during this ordeal.

[632 Regal]

are you going to have it rebuilt at Kirts place? Properly? The first time? Or **** around with Aamco or some other place?

good luck whatever you do, hope its the voltages tho.

[saj3n]

KIRT'S!!!! All the way! I'd even pay twice as much... It's all about the way someone presents themselves to you. Definitely the best support I've ever had with my BMW.... or parallel to the forum. :-D

[beemeraddict]

I went through a series of events and mishaps trying to resolve this problem that is too complicated, and painful, to repeat in detail. Long story short: after several expensive visits to "expert" BMW servicers and an "adjustment" to my transmission (which reduced my gas mileage), the problem has finally been resolved. Along the way in my research, I received some feedback that I should have the battery checked. I thought that sounded rediculous but, having suffered this problem for months, I had it checked. I was told it was OK. Oh yea...I was going to make this a short story. It turns out that the battery was bad. Even though I had it tested twice and got the thumbs up, the battery finally blew open one day when I tried to start the car. There was literally no fluid in the battery! I put a new battery in that day and no more "trans program". Also, some other mystery problems and error messages disappered. My apologies if you already got this info from someone else, I didn't have time to read through the thread and I just joined tonight. Good luck!

I know there are mounds of posts out there already, but just needed to relieve some stress.

Driving Fiance to interview about 20miles away, cruising at 50mph, then my revs shoot up, acceleration decreases, and I knew what was going to happen next, Trans program pops up on the display.

The car regained composure after I came to a slow stop at the light. but when taking off again, a "thud" is heard/felt leaving first gear. Not too sure either when/if it changes to 3rd or 4th, but I'm able to drive it around 45 still at 3000 rpm.

After this interview is over going straight to indy to have fluid levels checked (i pray its only fluid). and to top it off, while tense about the tranny, hit a series of smaller bunps, hear "clankity clanlk" and see a bolt shaped object get tossed behind the car... no telling what it was.

I'm sitting in the car now outside of this office, so if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

[saj3n]

I have done alot as well with this car, and trying to figure out the transmission issue, which I still have. Tomorrow, its supposed to be a clear day, I will be outside testing the voltages to my Transmission Computer, as well as the voltage directly from the battery. I also installed a few things into the car which during the installation may have caused a wire or two to drain voltage. Thanks for this update, it has encouraged me to put a good amount of time into checking out the electrical system.

[beemeraddict]

Just in case I rambled too much in my previous message, the voltage and load tests on my battery indicated that it was fine, even though it was literally dried up on the inside. Be sure to check the battery fluid levels first.


I have done alot as well with this car, and trying to figure out the transmission issue, which I still have. Tomorrow, its supposed to be a clear day, I will be outside testing the voltages to my Transmission Computer, as well as the voltage directly from the battery. I also installed a few things into the car which during the installation may have caused a wire or two to drain voltage. Thanks for this update, it has encouraged me to put a good amount of time into checking out the electrical system.

[BIGRED]

I too have this issue and have discussed it with a German Transmission builder. He says that in the end the diagnosing process is simple. Codes are stored in various parts of the trans and or engine and that at least in my case it is saying that the transmission is slipping and it is not something like the speed sensor. He says that if it were a speed sensor at 3 MPH it will kick the TRANS PROGRAM as the speed is always off. That in my case I get a code 100 after the car has up shifted to a higher gear where the slip is noticed and boom TRANS PROGRAM. My other option is to leave it in 4th gear as long as she holds I would be OK (I looked at the phone shaking my head).
So I have it there now and have given him the authorization to do what it takes including a rebuild. I am told by my MB/BMW mechanic he has done more than 60 transmissions through him, with never once a problem.

So it seems to me, that there are a number of issues that can take place that will case TRANS PROGRAM. It would be awesome if there was a list of them with the symptom and required action.

Good luck with yours!

[bagpuss]

Bump ! Any news yet ? Nice to get a closure on this one - the world thread-depth record !!

[danielhstout]

Bumping... I am dealing with almost identical symptoms right now. What was the outcome?