535i timing chain cover

[Dash01]

Can the timing chain cover be removed with the radiator still in place, or does that need to come out for proper access?

What size/type puller is needed to remove the vibration dampener wheel?

I'm debating with myself about removing the chain cover for replacement of the plastic guide rail. The rail itself does not show much wear, but its upper attachment ear broke, so the guide rail is only mounted at its bottom fitting. Apparently, this has been the case for quite a while. Given the PITA of removing the cover, etc. I'm wondering if it might be OK to just button the whole thing up and leave the guide rail as is. Also wondering if the upper attachment ear of the plastic guide rail could be JB welded back on, which would save lots of work. I know I shouldn't, but wonder what other more experienced people think about this.

[Mr Project]

You may not need a puller for the pulley once the nut is off....I spent a bunch of time hooking up my puller and then once I touched the pulley it basically fell off.

I'll let others who are more knowledgeable comment on the need, but this is something I wouldn't mess around with, personally. I'd try to get it fixed 'right' as soon as possible.

[nizmainiac]

i just used two pry bars on the dampener wheel on my m20, you just wiggle it off

[Ross]

The radiator can stay.
Removing the shroud will make life easier but the clips are likely to break. They are cheap even at the dealer.

[Dash01]

Thanks, guys, that's what I was hoping to hear.

OTOH, on my Porsche 944 Turbo, getting a puller on the front pulley is an absoute bitch, and my kids got to hear some new vocabulary. We call it "Car Talk" but it's not the Click & Clack variety.

[aston_jag_tech]

I did guide rails and tension guide a while back.

You need a special BMW tool bolted to the damper(remove the acc. pulley first) and this tool is suppose to rest on the bottom of the chassis to "Hold the crank". After thats setup remove that huge nut. Is it a 32mm? I forgot. But it was extremely hard to loosen. I used a 1/2 drive with 5 foot breaker bar attached. But after that, blueberry pie!

I did NOT use the BMW tool, I used a aston martin tool instead:D which worked! I can get you a pic if you would like to see it.

I removed the fan shroud and thats it. The job is very easy. I did my 535 at my dealership which has everything you need. With the help of all my tools and specialty tools I knocked it out in 8hrs. I had to remove the front cover again because I had a oil leak the first time I started it up. So I did the job again pretty much, lol.

So make sure you have the special tool to hold the crank and make sure you
have all your tools.:)
-Scott

Well, all jobs are easy when you have correct tools.

[Dash01]

Well, I ain't got no stinkin' special tool, so what am I gonna do?

The head is off, so I cannot try the stuff-rope-in-the-cylinder trick.

I hope not to have to jack up the car and remove the starter for the jam-the-flywheel teeth-with-a-stout screwdriver trick.

I was thinking about attaching a chain or nylon strap to the balance wheel, wrap it around a couple of turns, fix the other end of said chain to a hard point, then lever the big nut against that counterforce.

Any good & workable ideas for us guys who work in the driveway, without no stinkin' special tools?

[aston_jag_tech]

Any good & workable ideas for us guys who work in the driveway, without no stinkin' special tools?

That but is torqued to somewhere between 250 and 300 something. I think you need to make a tool to hold that crank.:(

If I was stuck on the driveway over my head I would try to make a tool.;)

Ill see if I can get a pic of the tool this weekend.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

we don't need no stinkin' special tools.

The chain trick works, just be very carefull of what you bolt up to.

somebody did a block of wood wedged between the dampner and the cross beam.

The point is to lock it at the dampner, not the flywheel (long crank shaft=flex)

I have a pipe chain wrench for these special moments, just lock it around and brace it, then pop goes the nut.

Pneumatic impact wrench would be a real good thing to beg, borrow or buy.

[aston_jag_tech]

Well I guess thats an alternative. Use manual power though. If that chain wrench setup you have slips or something else happens with that impact...or hey wear a helmet.

I am interested in the chain procedure though. Large link chain right. Grade 8 Bolts.

I jsut wanted to share the way I did it. Good luck with yours also.:D

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

on the flywheel of rotary mazdas 2 1/8 inch nut @300lbs

bolt the chain at a good spot, no slack or space on the bolts and crank away.

I've seen some pros just hold the dampner with a gloved hand and use an impact wrench too. I looked too easy.

[Jeff N.]

Bart - you can get the securing tool via Ebay. I borrowed a similar homemade one; worked like a charm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3850233443

[Dash01]

Bart - you can get the securing tool via Ebay. I borrowed a similar homemade one; worked like a charm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3850233443

Jeff,

So, that eBay thing bolts to the vibration dampner, and the arm keeps it from rotating while you wang on the jesus nut? Got any pics or description of your home made thingy?

I figured I'd wrap a strong nylon strap around the pulley a few times, then secure the other end of said strap to something strong and immobile. When cranking the jesus nut counterclockwise, the strap tightens as far as possible, then the nut lets go. Could use a chain on the same principle, but a chain would scratch stuff.

Whatdya think?

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Hell, I 'd drive to your house and drag my compressor, impact wrench, chain wrench, stop sign pole cheater bar, breaker bars and do it for beer.

[Dash01]

Hell, I 'd drive to your house and drag my compressor, impact wrench, chain wrench, stop sign pole cheater bar, breaker bars and do it for beer.


Well, I accept your offer!

You do realize that I live in NW Washington State, don't you?

I may try the rope/chain trick, or may make a triangle out of wood or steel to simulate the effect of the eBay tool. I'll unbolt the accessory pulley and use that for a template.

Actually, I suspect the rope trick oughta work OK: Wrap the accessory pulley with clockwise a strong rope (sorta like a lawn mower pull start rope) and fix the other end of the rope to a strong point. Then torque the big nut CCW, tensioning the rope til the nut comes loose. This depends on a strong and non-stretchy rope, such as the extra strong stuff for marine use, like Spectra. Won't scratch the pulley like a chain would.

[Bill R.]

harmonic damper bolt is torqued to 325 ft. lbs, in fact i would be hesitant to use the tool you have shown since it only fastens in 4 points with 8 mm bolts. If your going to make one i would make one more like the specified bmw tool that sits on more bolts to spread the load out. I realize that the shear on 4 8mm is well in excess of 325 ft. lbs however if those holes aren't drill just perfectly to load each of the 4 bolts then its possible to bend or shear one. The bmw tool looks like this and you bolt it at every hole





Well, I accept your offer!

You do realize that I live in NW Washington State, don't you?

I may try the rope/chain trick, or may make a triangle out of wood or steel to simulate the effect of the eBay tool. I'll unbolt the accessory pulley and use that for a template.

Actually, I suspect the rope trick oughta work OK: Wrap the accessory pulley with clockwise a strong rope (sorta like a lawn mower pull start rope) and fix the other end of the rope to a strong point. Then torque the big nut CCW, tensioning the rope til the nut comes loose. This depends on a strong and non-stretchy rope, such as the extra strong stuff for marine use, like Spectra. Won't scratch the pulley like a chain would.

[aston_jag_tech]

There it is!!

I asked our Snap-On dealer how much that tool is and he said 300+ or something. OTC tool.
I wanted to ask BMW of SD if I could borrow it, since we are owned by the same co. but they didnt offer.
Maybe one of these days while Im not busy I could borrow it and fab one up.

[Dash01]

Here's another screwball idea that has been used on some cars, but maybe not successfully on ours:

Attach the breaker bar/socket to the big nut, with the other end of the bar on the ground.

Then, hit the starter, which turns the engine over and unscrews the big nut. Obviously, this presumes the tool is arranged such as to loosen the big nut, rather than tighten it.

Some Porsche guys have used this trick successfully. I would not dare, for fear of breaking the teeth on the flywheel or starter motor, etc.. Seems to me, this has too great a risk of at least making hairline cracks on some metal that is not designed for such stress. Any further thoughts on this?

[Ross]

If the head is off bolt something across the bore to improvise a piston stop.

[Dash01]

If the head is off bolt something across the bore to improvise a piston stop.


Thanks, Ross. Since the head is off, I'm leaning in that direction.

A&P aircraft mechanics stuff some soft (but clean) cotton rope into the sparkplug hole of cyl. 1 to act as a jam to prevent rotation, allowing them to remove the propellor hub, illustrating that jamming the #1 cylinder piston is OK to stop rotation of the crankshaft. That's with the head on, obviously.

Other cars (Porsche, etc.) use a flywheel lock tha bolts in where the starter motor goes, as flex in the drive shaft is minimal. I have one of these, but don't know if it fits the M30 BMW engine. Probably not.