Heater core parts list...how far would you go?

[mancini_mark]

Hi everyone,

So, I've got my dash ALL apart chasing mice away & cleaning out their crap. My poor car smells like a washroom. Anyways, I've had a leaky heater core for the longest time and I figured I'd do it now while everything's apart. Sure enough, there is some dry coolant spread out in a fan pattern from the bottom left of the core.

So, I've searched the archives ad nauseum, and can't find a parts list. I saw a couple of DIY writeups and some went further than others. So, from the ETK, here's what I WANT to replace:

Heater core: 64118372523
Pipe: 64118372524
Gaskets (o-rings) 64111374238, 64118379131 (x2), 64118377824 (x2)

I guess what I'm asking is, do I have to, or should I replace the three pipes that go through the firewall? (64111378203, 64111378204, 64111374368) It just seems like a PITA, but so does tearing it all apart again.

Thanks,
Mark
1990 525i M20, 5-speed

[Ross]

If the pipes aren't corroded, leave 'em.

[mancini_mark]

I don't think they are...need to take a better look tomorrow. Are they aluminum?

[DigitalRelay]

I just picked up my new heater core from the dealer. It cost around $175. Inside the box are three new aluminum pipes. I didn't look for o-rings yet.

I didn't think to order the o-rings right away. Do I need to get these from a dealer, or can I get generic o-rings at an auto part store and match up the sizes when I get the heater apart?

[mancini_mark]

Hey...I just got off the phone with the local parts place and they said the dealer up here in Canada has the core for $132. Guess where I'm going next! If he's right, that beats BMA by a wee bit plus no shipping.

About those o-rings, I would definitely go back to the dealer. They're only a few cents a piece over there and would save you a lot of trouble.

Mark

[DigitalRelay]

You're right, Mark. O-rings ordered. Should be here before the weekend.

Thanks and good luck!

[neil_004]

my core from the dealer had the o-rings on the heater core end of the pipes. Did you manage to get the core without the pipes?

[DigitalRelay]

In the box is a heater core with three aluminum pipes installed, complete with o-rings. It seems the consensus is to leave my original pipes in place and install just the heater core. It also sounds like I can use the (3) new o-rings currently installed on the new pipes. Do I need to purchase any other o-rings (Mark's first post lists 3 o-ring part numbers with a total quantity of 5 o-rings) or anything else to complete this job?

TIA

[bbig119]

Just did the core a couple weekends ago-- what a PITA!!!

I have many pictures and debated doing a writeup, but since my install wasn't as smooth as some of the other writeups I've held off a little. Still you'd like pictures/advice I'll be happy to help as I can.

The heater core I got was from BMA and had all necessary o-rings. You shouldn't need to replace the pipes, it took me several hours to get the old ones out and just as long to get the new ones in.

By far the hardest part for me(the reason I ended up installing new pipes) was that its a bitch to get the pipes that enter the core at the side seated enough(especially with the new o-rings) to get the metal tab to lock in place and screwed down. Its so easy with the core/pipes out of the car, but when in place the pipes just don't wiggle/move alot and its hard to get a good angle to push on the pipes effectively.

Don't want to discourage you at all, from the writeups I saw most people were getting this done in 5-10 hours, which sounds reasonable. You've already got the dash apart which is a good 2-3 hours right there.

Goodluck

[mancini_mark]

Hey guys,

I just got back from the dealer. I got the core for $150 CDN. Plus the plastic pipe for $108. O-rings were an extra few bucks. We'll see tomorrow what they come with. My only explanation for the separate pieces would be the build date. The core was different after 1/90. Mine is 09/89. So if yours is newer, double-check those part numbers on realoem.com. Even the o-rings could differ.

Big day tomorrow. Still can't drive the damn thing too far. It's not circulating coolant, so I think the water pump is done. It's also due for a timing belt, so I might just pay someone to do that. Other than that, I've got to store it away from that farm. Hopefully I can rent a spot in my building.

I'll let you guys know how it went, and if my core came with everything as yours did.

Mark

[Robin-535im]

My two cents... FWIW... would be to leave the pipes as others have said. The work to replace the core vs. replacing the o-rings is the same, and it's such a PITA to get to that I would go ahead and do both the o-rings and the core at the same time... even though chances are good it's just the o-rings. Stationary aluminum tubes are simply not failure points, and as bbig has seen it's tough work to wrangle them out. Do loosen their mounting points to get some wiggle room, you'll need it to press the tubes into the core straight enough to get the plastic clamp to line up.

HTH

- Robin

[DABLACK]

Hey Mark I forgot to tell you about the timing belt....get 'er dun SOON with the water pump if i am not mistaken this has the set up that if the belt breaks... well you lose the head (valves will smash into head) just like in the Hondas and Volkswagon....dont forget to call Europa for a $ on the labour ask for Calli or Alex and you know the rest .....

good luck talk to you soon




Hey guys,

I just got back from the dealer. I got the core for $150 CDN. Plus the plastic pipe for $108. O-rings were an extra few bucks. We'll see tomorrow what they come with. My only explanation for the separate pieces would be the build date. The core was different after 1/90. Mine is 09/89. So if yours is newer, double-check those part numbers on realoem.com. Even the o-rings could differ.

Big day tomorrow. Still can't drive the damn thing too far. It's not circulating coolant, so I think the water pump is done. It's also due for a timing belt, so I might just pay someone to do that. Other than that, I've got to store it away from that farm. Hopefully I can rent a spot in my building.

I'll let you guys know how it went, and if my core came with everything as yours did.

Mark

[DigitalRelay]

O-rings - check
Heater core - check
BMW coolant - check
Bentley Manual - in shipping (damn)
Several Internet how-to write ups - check

I'm going in tomorrow. I'll report back after I'm done. Wish me luck.

[ryan roopnarine]

the roadfly--turn by turn writeup that someone did is the only one you need. the others waste unnecessary time. no reason you can't get to the core in under 2.5 hours the first time, even if you bag and label everything.

[mancini_mark]

Hey Brian,

I just finished the job today. It takes quite some time. Only problem is that I was in a hurry, so I started labeling screws, parts, etc, but gave up. Now I forget what goes where, so I've mostly got it back together. I was also getting rid of mice that made a nest in the blower motor housing.

Thanks for the heads up on the belt. Too bad it's not a "non-interference" type engine. I won't drive it until it's done because the water pump won't circulate coolant. I want to call Kali or Nikita to do the belt, but I'm worried about towing it there. Right now, I've been storing the car on my parents' farm in Caledon, so my other alternative would be either Bolton Motor Works or RMP in Bolton. I haven't been to either, but I understand that the guy at RMP is BMW factory trained.

Once I get it roadworthy, I'm bringing it back to the city away from those nasty mice. I took some pictures of what I was up against & will post them soon.

See you soon,

Mark

[DigitalRelay]

Heater core has been replaced. It was not a terrible job, but did take some time. I also replaced the microfilter. Getting the metal bracket to pop in over the two pipes was a pain. At one point, I slipped trying to get it on and knoced out a sensor - the one next to the fog light switch. I believe this is the temp sensor for the climate control system. I got it back together alright, but I think it may have busted. After filling the system back up with coolant and running the car for a bit, I turned on the heat full blast. Works great - no coolant smell either. However, when I put the CC controls to cool and have the fan on, I'm getting warm air in through the vents, especially at the floor and the defrost vents. Any ideas?

[DigitalRelay]

Problem solved.

I was driving last night and immediately noticed there was no backlighting for the climate controls. Had to be the connector. Once I opened things up and got behind the controls again, I could see that the locking mechanism for that connector was broken. I removed it and strategically inserted a zip tie to pull that connector tight. Tested the system and all is well again.

[31Hertz]

Way to go Mancini, DRelay, and bbig! I just put a new heater core in my 540 yesterday (must be that time of year, huh?) along with new cool blue. She's puttin' out some serious heat with no sweet syrupy smells. I did not bother putting screws in baggies (I just put the screws back in the panel holes from whence they came once the panels were out) Makes ya feel good to save a thousand bucks for one day's worth of work, don't it?!?!

As a side note: I found out she's got a Nikasil block! (17429981) Hooray!!!

[bbig119]

congrats...sounds like yours went smoothly.

[DigitalRelay]

Congratulations to anyone that has tackled this job. It is great saving money. This was probably the second worst job I've done in the last couple years. First would be replacing the auto trans in my 94 Caprice on jackstands with no assistance. Getting your back soaked in transmission fluid while trying to lift a 175 lb transmission in the middle of Novemeber in Wisconsin is not so fun.

The drive to the office with my properly working climate control system this morning was splendid.

[brosher]

Thanks, you've given me some inspiration. I had a false start on the core this weekend (tis the season!). I got the center console started but then got busy with other stuff around the house so it's put off until next weekend. Thank goodness for my heated seats! :D

[Jehu]

I have to do mine.Just found out the mega shop charges for the labour alone 12-14 hrs at $90/hr? This is a must DIY..I'd seen a few threasd about these and was counting my blessing i had no trouble till today,with the blower not working but the controls set to hot a fine syrupy mist was rising from the defog vents and steaming up the windows.If drinking it is deadly i can't imagine breathing the mist is very good for you.Well looks like quite the tedious, time consuming job dealing with lts of tab,s clatches, screws and the like. Does the Steering wheel need to come out? never mind i;m off to find that Roadlfy DIY..oy.

Is THIS (http://www.homeofsbc.com/Fixes/Heater/heater.htm) it?

[ryan roopnarine]

I have to do mine.Just found out the mega shop charges for the labour alone 12-14 hrs at $90/hr? This is a must DIY..I'd seen a few threasd about these and was counting my blessing i had no trouble till today,with the blower not working but the controls set to hot a fine syrupy mist was rising from the defog vents and steaming up the windows.If drinking it is deadly i can't imagine breathing the mist is very good for you.Well looks like quite the tedious, time consuming job dealing with lts of tab,s clatches, screws and the like. Does the Steering wheel need to come out? never mind i;m off to find that Roadlfy DIY..oy.

Is THIS (http://www.homeofsbc.com/Fixes/Heater/heater.htm)it?

no, this is it
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e34/7017392-1.html

the heater core in the non roadfly one is different from yours, but you can use that one as a picture reference. the roadfly one has every step you need to take spelled out for you.

[DigitalRelay]

I didn't remove my steering wheel for this job, but taking it off is not a big deal. Just remember to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the air bag connections or you'll be staring at the SRS idiot light like me.

Replacing the heater core is fairly time consuming, but it is definitely a DIY job in a day or weekend at best. Good luck!

[Dash01]

I'm about to tackle this job, but as of now am pretty ignorant. Questions:

Somebody on this list or elsewhere posted a procedure and pictures of a heater core job that used rubber coolant hoses of the correct size, instead of the infamous brittle plastic BMW tubes. What are the merits/demerits of this idea?

Further, per various posts, I gather that fiddling/fitting the aluminum tubes is a gross PITA, and that implacement of O-rings is another gross PITA. Would it be practical and efficient to chuck the aluminum tubes and run rubber hoses of correct size through the firewall, etc. and bypass the hassle?

For that matter, what are the merits/demerits of using a generic heater core from NAPA, then fitting it into the car with long hoses already attached, to just pull the hoses through the firewall?

[Dash01]

More questions about heater core procedure:

1. why not disconnect the heater core hoses in the engine bay, then suck any coolant out with a shop vac? This would avoid spills on the carpet.

2. If the hoses-instead-of-stock-alu/plastic tubes & O-rings trick works, you could slide a string of flexible plastic such as a long zip-tie down the INSIDE of the tubes from the engine bay, then cut and remove the stock tubes. Then, use that string to pull the hoses back out via the same routing.

In other words, just eliminate the whole faulty stock alu/plastic/O-ring arrangement, and substitute some simple hoses.

[ryan roopnarine]

I'm about to tackle this job, but as of now am pretty ignorant. Questions:

Somebody on this list or elsewhere posted a procedure and pictures of a heater core job that used rubber coolant hoses of the correct size, instead of the infamous brittle plastic BMW tubes. What are the merits/demerits of this idea?

Further, per various posts, I gather that fiddling/fitting the aluminum tubes is a gross PITA, and that implacement of O-rings is another gross PITA. Would it be practical and efficient to chuck the aluminum tubes and run rubber hoses of correct size through the firewall, etc. and bypass the hassle?

For that matter, what are the merits/demerits of using a generic heater core from NAPA, then fitting it into the car with long hoses already attached, to just pull the hoses through the firewall?

the plastic tubes are going to be far more "spray hot coolant in your face" resistant than any hose is going to be (even if it is by/for bmw). this is probably the best reason to get the new plastic tubes (you don't mention which car you have in your profile, so i can't tell you if you even have plastic tubes). among others, the heater core can manage to ingest rubber/viton/whatever o-rings all by itself. plastic isn't going to do this, aluminum isn't going to do this, but rubber might.

the aluminum feed tubes aren't likely to fail, ever. the type of aluminum used here doesn't really get too stressed in this kind of application unless there's unknown electrolysis. IIRC, robin ritter (the man with PE behind his last name) has said something to the same effect. there isn't much to be gained from re-engineering this system if you consider the average 10-12-14 years a bmw needs between heater cores to be too long. people seem to change them for thorough-ness.

any generic heater core is not likely to support dual zone climate control like the bmw's, and if you did find a dual zone HC for cheap, it likely wouldn't "fit" the bmw's existing hvac layout. if you look at the SBC heater core replacement page, you'll see that the heater core is really two little radiators (which is why two plastic pipes go into it, and one comes out)

rest of it.....nobody really wants to get rid of the aluminum pipes, they don't really fail. its just really hard to get the pipes back into the heater core after you take them out, unless you get them aligned perfectly. the o-rings seem to cause the most problems, and you won't be getting rid of those ever, really.
the heater core holds more than a litre of water, disconnecting the tubes at the firewall isn't going to evacuate the heater core, no matter how much suction you can bring upon it.

[Jehu]

So laying a few old towels underneath the area from where the core sits is probably a good idea if you're working alone to avoid having any pour onto the carpet.I'm going to replace my heater valves when i do the core and maybe even need the controls but from what I've read there could just be a loose connection behind them causing their intermittent non performance. Any other tutorials with nice big pictures with arrows and circles would really be a big help.