1989 Bmw 525 Shiming When Breaking

[begeta50]

I took my E34 today for a ride on the freeway, but it was very scary every time I wanted to stop. The car shakes very bad every time I hit the breaks. The car runs great.
If anyone can give some ideas how to fix. I will appreciate.
Thanks:p

[winfred]

this is the most common problem for e32/34s the cure has many faces the root cause is worn parts, tie rods/center link and idler arm bushing, check everything in the front end with a ball joint and if it's worn replace it, any movement is too much for a balljoint, replace the thrust arm bushings with ether 750il bushings or my personal favorite bushings from a m5, if the strut housings are oily or the front of the car bounces more then once after you jump off the front bumper replace the strut inserts, the last part in the quest for squashing the shimmy is the front rotors are slightly warped which sets up the rest of the suspensions movement, if the rest of the suspension is solid it will tolerate a slight warp but once the wheel starts shaking at lower speeds (less then 55 mph) and or the pedal pulses the rotors are toast, sloted rotors seem to last longer and if you shop around they are not much more then oem replacment. if you find no worn ball joints replace the thrust arm bushings as they are the most common cause

ps aftermarket parts like the ones in ebay specials are not worth it, get lemforder brand (orignal) unless you want to re do it in 6 months

[begeta50]

Thanks for the info. I am going to check and replace those parts today.

[AllGo'n'Show]

I have the same problem you do man, shitty.

I have done 3 control arms w/ new ball joints and bushings for all, another bushing for the left lwoer thrust arm, 2 tie rods and 1 sway bar link, 3 sets of rotors. And its still there :(.


Your saying center link and idler arm? Anything else I should be checking?

I'm taking it into a specality shop on Tuesday hopefully to see what he says.

[winfred]

checking the center link and idler arm is just a matter of grabing it and pushing/pulling on it, the center link shouldn't twist or have any other movement and you shouldn't be able to move the idler arm up or down while pulling on the center link. without getting my hands on it i can't say whats up with your shimmy


I have the same problem you do man, shitty.

I have done 3 control arms w/ new ball joints and bushings for all, another bushing for the left lwoer thrust arm, 2 tie rods and 1 sway bar link, 3 sets of rotors. And its still there :(.


Your saying center link and idler arm? Anything else I should be checking?

I'm taking it into a specality shop on Tuesday hopefully to see what he says.

[begeta50]

I notice that steering box has some play. Do you think that the steering box has something to do with the shimmy. There is any way to tied or to eliminate the play from the steering box?

[winfred]

the box can be adjusted but it requiers care to not destroy the box by doing it wrong, get both front wheels off the ground so they can turn freely then you can work on the box, run the steeling wheel lock to lock to see how it feels, theres a jamb nut and screw on top of the box loosen the nut and tighten the screw a little at a time (1/4 turn or less) and tighten the jamb nut then work the steering lock to lock and see if you feel any tight spots, good?! try a little tighter on the screw, keep trying till you feel a tight spot then back off atleast a 1/4 turn, if you get it too tight it will wear out the box quickly so no tight spots! this gets about half of the boxes feeling pretty good the rest the bottom end is worn out and the box is toast

ps same procedure for most rb steering boxes cept for mercedes you loosen the screw instead of tighten


I notice that steering box has some play. Do you think that the steering box has something to do with the shimmy. There is any way to tied or to eliminate the play from the steering box?