self leveling suspension

[edward]

Hey guys

I have a 1993 525 it and it is leaking from the lines or the regulating valve. I live in Ottawa Canada so all the lines are rusty as hell. I have priced a new regulating valve and it is $550. My question is do these valves usually go. Should I try to replace it and or all the lines. And if I do am I going to have to replace the rest of this system peice by expensive piece. Mileage is 187000km. I do not not really want to get rid of the system but it looks like it is going to be a big expensive headache to fix. Any advice would be helpful. Also if all my fluid drains out will it kill the power steering or is each system seperate.

Thanks, Edward

[Alexlind123]

Get rid of the system, you will probably be glad you did in the long run.

[Jr ///M5]

As far as I know, there hasn't been anyone that has taken the regulator apart and tried to fix or replace the seals inside. If the fluid is leaking by the seals the chances are that the valve body is worn out anyway.

The power steering pump is a two stage pump, one high pressure side that runs the self leveling system and the front stage is for the power steering. Yes, running low on fluid will not only ruin your high pressure side, but will also leave you searching for a dual stage power steering pump. Fluid is cheaper at the moment. Much cheaper. So let's not let her run all the way out, ok?

You can try two methods of repair before you scrap the system and go to a conventional system.

There's a chance you have a combination of problems. The first and foremost is the accumulators in the system. There are two "bomb" looking like components and they are tucked over the axle. They have a nitrogen bladder in them to compensate for the high pressure spikes that occur in the hydraulic system. When they are blown, there isn't any cushion and fluid is often forced beyond seals that aren't meant to withstand the high pressure spikes. Blown accumulators could be part of your problem, but usually show up as leaking shocks. Replacing them will cost a little over $100 a side if you do the work.

The other adjustment you could try is adjusting the load leveling switch located on the metering block. This should place the internal valve in a different position inside the metering block and could solve your problem.

If all else fails, just remember that the lines are super tight. You will strip the hex head off of the connectors even using a flare nut wrench, and will probably end up using a chain vise and pipe wrenches to remove the lines. So plan on replacing some of them at best.

You might be able to locate a used metering block from a salvage yard and save a little money, but keep in mind that this is a bitch of a job and the room to work is limited.

When you've added up all your time and labor chasing and installing parts, you might even keep in mind that some people opt for installing a lowering kit at this time, replacing the self-leveling springs and hydraulic shocks for conventional shocks and springs and tying the hydraulic lines in a loop so the pump just circulates the fluid.

Hope this helps you somewhat...

Jr