alpinaracerX
10-19-2006, 02:05 AM
Ok so, I'll start from the beginning, I got some 5.0 injectors awhile back, didnt like how loud and chattery they are. So I took them out and put my old ones back in, had a problem with the 6th cylinder injector getting it back in. Finally got it in, car ran like crap idle was bad, and felt not hesitant but um, shuddery under accelleration and only accelleration. It also seems very rich running my economy has dropped significantly. I also can smell gas in the exhaust as before I couldnt.
So I've replaced the Plugs, Wires, Dist Cap, Dist Rotor, Fuel Pressure Reg., Mass Air Flow Sensor, Idle Control Valve and Oxygen Sensor. I've re-adjusted my TPS aswell. Still the same thing.
(As a side note, immedately after replacing the Dist cap and rotor car idled perfect no rough idle or sort of sign of being bad, for about 30 seconds and went back to being its horrible rich gas guzzling self :( )
This shudder is only felt under I'd say about 3000-3500 RPM at or close to WOT. I've tried unplugging the Water temp. sensor (that made the idle change), the Idle Control Valve (didnt do too much), the TPS (that made the idle go up 1000 RPM to idle at 1100 RPM). I've pulled off the oil fill cap; Car almost died. I've removed the dip-stick, same deal car almost died. I've removed the gas cap, no change at all? (not sure if there is suppose to be?)
So tonight I reset the DME thinking that might help. Didn't. I used to get code 1222 Lambda Control 1. So that led me to believe its all of the recently stated I've replaced.
Not so.
After resetting the DME I get code 1444... Which made absolutely NO sence in my mind because the car STILL ran like crap! Nothing had changed but the DME thinks other wise?
My question is? Why, Why why why?
Is it just because it needs to be tuned or something?
Is my DME toast?
Do I have a bad ground?
Could I have a vaccum leak somewhere? How do I test for this?
And what should my vaccum be at?
Any and all help is muchly appreiciated!
Thanks for reading.
Tim
So I've replaced the Plugs, Wires, Dist Cap, Dist Rotor, Fuel Pressure Reg., Mass Air Flow Sensor, Idle Control Valve and Oxygen Sensor. I've re-adjusted my TPS aswell. Still the same thing.
(As a side note, immedately after replacing the Dist cap and rotor car idled perfect no rough idle or sort of sign of being bad, for about 30 seconds and went back to being its horrible rich gas guzzling self :( )
This shudder is only felt under I'd say about 3000-3500 RPM at or close to WOT. I've tried unplugging the Water temp. sensor (that made the idle change), the Idle Control Valve (didnt do too much), the TPS (that made the idle go up 1000 RPM to idle at 1100 RPM). I've pulled off the oil fill cap; Car almost died. I've removed the dip-stick, same deal car almost died. I've removed the gas cap, no change at all? (not sure if there is suppose to be?)
So tonight I reset the DME thinking that might help. Didn't. I used to get code 1222 Lambda Control 1. So that led me to believe its all of the recently stated I've replaced.
Not so.
After resetting the DME I get code 1444... Which made absolutely NO sence in my mind because the car STILL ran like crap! Nothing had changed but the DME thinks other wise?
My question is? Why, Why why why?
Is it just because it needs to be tuned or something?
Is my DME toast?
Do I have a bad ground?
Could I have a vaccum leak somewhere? How do I test for this?
And what should my vaccum be at?
Any and all help is muchly appreiciated!
Thanks for reading.
Tim