1992 535I windows do not work when cold!

[The Don Man]

I have a 1992 535i, when it is cold outside the power windows, sunroof, and windsheild wipers do not work. Any help would be appreciated.

[shogun]

Remove the door panels and grease the big gear
http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/51321944070.jpg
as well as all parts which are moving.
Clean the part where the window regulator bushings are running. Maybe full of dirt.
All what you mentioned is controlled by the GM, but the GM can only handle max. 30 or 35 AMP.
Is that is exceeded, it will switch off the function.
Pull the GM, look for oxidized pins. If they are oxidized, clean them with a wire brush.
From the GM the signal goes to the RM where the relays are inside.

[fujioko]

I had a different thought on the subject.. perhaps the fusible link is cracked and is shrinking from the cold.

The accessories that don’t work are in the same group that typically will fail when the fusible link is blown or cracked.

Just a thought.

[The Don Man]

I had a different thought on the subject.. perhaps the fusible link is cracked and is shrinking from the cold.

The accessories that don’t work are in the same group that typically will fail when the fusible link is blown or cracked.

Just a thought.

Thanks I will check these this weekend!!!

[Mewsy]

I had EXACTLY the same symptoms not even a week ago, my 80mah fusible link had a crack right through the middle, when i touched it with my key it crumbled. Cost me AUD 2.00 and took less than a minute to install!!:D

[genphreak]

$2.00 and 1 minute? Took me longer to solder the connections (at least 5 mins) but it really needs to be riveted also.

But my 80A link was not ideal- I got it from the dealer and it was old stock/corroded. In the end I replaced it when I installed a massive fuse block to run other devices. It also reads current draw and voltage, which is not necessary but handy. It takes 4 12mm glass fuses, but I had to use 2x40A ones as I cannot find an single 80A one of this type.

However my parallel fuses are theoretically a bad idea (but they work so far, with lights and wipers- and power windows running). So I still I want an 80A one that I can heat shrink in there and rely upon. Where did you get yours, Mewsy? An auto shop? I tried Jaycar and Dick Smith without any luck... Cheers, Nick

[Mewsy]

I bought the fuse straight from spare parts at Auto Calssic here in Perth. It was supposed to be about $2.50 but I didn't have the right change and I also had the Ambulance discount suit on!!
My car is a 525i, so the fuse was right next to the battery under the bonnet, not the back seat. He said it was a common part replacement. My car has done 245,000km's so I don't know how long it has been in there - could have been ages





$2.00 and 1 minute? Took me longer to solder the connections (at least 5 mins) but it really needs to be riveted also.

But my 80A link was not ideal- I got it from the dealer and it was old stock/corroded. In the end I replaced it when I installed a massive fuse block to run other devices. It also reads current draw and voltage, which is not necessary but handy. It takes 4 12mm glass fuses, but I had to use 2x40A ones as I cannot find an single 80A one of this type.

However my parallel fuses are theoretically a bad idea (but they work so far, with lights and wipers- and power windows running). So I still I want an 80A one that I can heat shrink in there and rely upon. Where did you get yours, Mewsy? An auto shop? I tried Jaycar and Dick Smith without any luck... Cheers, Nick

[ryan roopnarine]

if the items you mention dont work in addition to the radio, blower, and locks, then the fusible link is the likely culprit. if your radio , blower and locks work (and not intermittently), its not the fusible link, its the GM/RM like shogun mentioned.