540i 5-Speed swap questions...

[MTechnik540i]

First of all, is it possible? One would think it would be, considering the 530i uses a different iteration of the same M60.

Also, what all would be involved swapping an Auto to Manual on an E34. I've got a distinct feeling it's a little more involved than doing the same to an E30.

Any help/advice is appreciated.

BTW, I know I said 5spd, not 6spd. At this point, a 6spd is just out of the price range.

[Kalevera]

Trevor, relatively easy job to do. No fabrication involved. Change the pedal cluster, install clutch hydraulics and shifter, swap transmission and driveshaft. Electrics are easy -- jump a few wires, optionally change the starter relay to a jumper plug, and run reverse switch wiring from the transmission up to the neutral position switch harness connector. B40 cars use the same differential input shaft, so a junkyard manual driveshaft should bolt in, but I don't know the difference in length between the 5 and 6 speeds.

Three things on 540s: 1) you need a special torx bit to install the factory dual mass flywheel -- it has a special tool part number, don't know it off the top of my head, 2) removing the transmission heat exchanger will be the most difficult part of the job, and you may ruin the (expensive) lines and cooler in the process, not that you need them again, 3) there's a manifold on the back of the engine that delivers coolant to the heat exchanger -- it will have to be replaced with the part for factory manual cars (no holes for the cooler) or rig up a way of blocking the pipes. It's difficult to get to when the car's together, so do it for keeps the first time around.

The E34 540 can use any E34/E39 6 speed, but you may need a custom driveshaft depending on what you get. The 6 speeds are cheap these days. They can't be rebuilt -- no parts available for them and they break. Having said that, I just sold one with 35k mile on it for a grand, which is a deal.

[MTechnik540i]

Trevor, relatively easy job to do. No fabrication involved. Change the pedal cluster, install clutch hydraulics and shifter, swap transmission and driveshaft. Electrics are easy -- jump a few wires, optionally change the starter relay to a jumper plug, and run reverse switch wiring from the transmission up to the neutral position switch harness connector. B40 cars use the same differential input shaft, so a junkyard manual driveshaft should bolt in, but I don't know the difference in length between the 5 and 6 speeds.

Three things on 540s: 1) you need a special torx bit to install the factory dual mass flywheel -- it has a special tool part number, don't know it off the top of my head, 2) removing the transmission heat exchanger will be the most difficult part of the job, and you may ruin the (expensive) lines and cooler in the process, not that you need them again, 3) there's a manifold on the back of the engine that delivers coolant to the heat exchanger -- it will have to be replaced with the part for factory manual cars (no holes for the cooler) or rig up a way of blocking the pipes. It's difficult to get to when the car's together, so do it for keeps the first time around.

The E34 540 can use any E34/E39 6 speed, but you may need a custom driveshaft depending on what you get. The 6 speeds are cheap these days. They can't be rebuilt -- no parts available for them and they break. Having said that, I just sold one with 35k mile on it for a grand, which is a deal.


VERY helpful. This at the very least, gives me a good idea what I'm looking at. Doesn't sounds too, too ridiculous.

Also, wondering if there's any modification that has to be made to the cluster? As it obviously has the read out w/ the Automatic, telling which gear you're in and such.

[gale]

No need to swap the instrument cluster. When you remove the automatic, it will trip the dreaded "Trans Program Error" message in the CCM display, but does not cause the car to go into limp mode. As Lowell said, a few jumper wires will take care of electrical issues. For a 535i, jumping pin 33 to ground on the TCU connecor gets rid of the Trans Program display (540i will likely be a different pin, check Bentleys schematics). If you can locate the wiring under the front fuse box, you can alternatively jump the CCM pin 5 to ground and that will also get rid of the Trans Program display.

It will likely display a permanent "S" in the instrument cluster where it was formerly "ED", etc. for the gear indicator. Simply take the cluster out and remove the appropriate bulb.

[MTechnik540i]

No need to swap the instrument cluster. When you remove the automatic, it will trip the dreaded "Trans Program Error" message in the CCM display, but does not cause the car to go into limp mode. As Lowell said, a few jumper wires will take care of electrical issues. For a 535i, jumping pin 33 to ground on the TCU connecor gets rid of the Trans Program display (540i will likely be a different pin, check Bentleys schematics). If you can locate the wiring under the front fuse box, you can alternatively jump the CCM pin 5 to ground and that will also get rid of the Trans Program display.

It will likely display a permanent "S" in the instrument cluster where it was formerly "ED", etc. for the gear indicator. Simply take the cluster out and remove the appropriate bulb.

Yeah, I was afraid of the CCM, but the fix seems simple enough.

Next question...Believe it's got a 2.93, what would be the appropriate gearing for such a swap?

[gale]

Here's Vine's listing of diff ratios for different models:

http://www.vinesauto.com/techinfo.htm

Yes, it does look like yours has a 2.93 diff in it with the stock auto. If you're going to use a 530i 5-spd trans, then a 3.46 would be a good ratio to use. For a little more fun, you could put a 3.64 or 3.73 in it. I'm running a 3.91 in mine and is loads of fun :D

[bbig119]

Speaking of the trans program error, Whit helped me with it back in May and it did the deed. However, occasionally it does creep up and now I notice it more frequently especially on cold days and immediately after starting up the car on said cold days. On my short drive to the train station it'll be almost blinking on and off every couple seconds. Again, not an every day sort of thing, but definitely an annoyance and one that I'm worried will become worse as the weather gets colder(as that's the only theory I have now).

any idea what might be causing this?

to the OP, I bought a 540 that the PO did a 6speed swap on. Its fantastic, and while I can't speak for the work that went into it, having 6th gear is nice on the highway.

[yaofeng]

Trevor, relatively easy job to do. No fabrication involved. Change the pedal cluster, install clutch hydraulics and shifter, swap transmission and driveshaft. Electrics are easy -- jump a few wires, optionally change the starter relay to a jumper plug, and run reverse switch wiring from the transmission up to the neutral position switch harness connector. B40 cars use the same differential input shaft, so a junkyard manual driveshaft should bolt in, but I don't know the difference in length between the 5 and 6 speeds.

Three things on 540s: 1) you need a special torx bit to install the factory dual mass flywheel -- it has a special tool part number, don't know it off the top of my head, 2) removing the transmission heat exchanger will be the most difficult part of the job, and you may ruin the (expensive) lines and cooler in the process, not that you need them again, 3) there's a manifold on the back of the engine that delivers coolant to the heat exchanger -- it will have to be replaced with the part for factory manual cars (no holes for the cooler) or rig up a way of blocking the pipes. It's difficult to get to when the car's together, so do it for keeps the first time around.

The E34 540 can use any E34/E39 6 speed, but you may need a custom driveshaft depending on what you get. The 6 speeds are cheap these days. They can't be rebuilt -- no parts available for them and they break. Having said that, I just sold one with 35k mile on it for a grand, which is a deal.

No need to get the parts for the rear coolant manifold. Just loop a piece of coolant hose between the two openings. The 6 speed flywheel is fastened to the block by nine T55 bolts, IIRC. Get the long torx bits from Auto Zone.

[Kalevera]

It really could be any number of things, but I wonder if it isn't due to loose wiring or the EGS module still being installed.

As to the rear coolant manifold: when converting it's easier to install the correct part while you're in there than to rely on a piece of rubber hose that will fail, located in what is probably the hottest region of the engine bay. Getting in there to make repairs is difficult to do from the top once the transmission is installed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v736/suzpectx/rearwatermanifoldin1.jpg

[MTechnik540i]

As to the rear coolant manifold: when converting it's easier to install the correct part while you're in there than to rely on a piece of rubber hose that will fail, located in what is probably the hottest region of the engine bay. Getting in there to make repairs is difficult to do from the top once the transmission is installed.

Good point.

[yaofeng]

The original hose routing looks like this.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3136.jpg

The coolant hose goes down one end of the auto transmission and up the other. I simply looped a piece of coolant hose, upon the wise recommendation of someone on another board, like this,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3368.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3369.jpg

The area is far from the hottest place of the engine compartment. The hottest area is close to the exhaust headers.