In defense of Dino

[granit_silber]

I thought I would pics some pics of what my valvetrian looks like after 175K+ of running dino oil changed every 3500 - 5000 miles.
-ashley

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/3204/dscf0252ek9.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/6517/dscf0251hx9.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/9015/dscf0250di1.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/3319/dscf0249pj9.jpg

[yaofeng]

I bet if you ran synthetic with 10k miles change interval it would have looked even cleaner.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

with synth it would have been gray

[Russell]

Why gray? Do you mean it has cleaned down to the metal and not leving a stain? From what I have heard, synthetic oil will not remove all the golden stain even after several changes.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Why gray? Do you mean it has cleaned down to the metal and not leving a stain? From what I have heard, synthetic oil will not remove all the golden stain even after several changes.

left the golden varnish like color, but I don't know how long it would take the detergents to work at the olds stains.


I know my motors are gray, but may have run dino in a past life.

[632 Regal]

it will never remove that brown dino coating.
I don't know how long it would take the detergents to work at the olds stains.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

it will never remove that brown dino coating.

add a pint between oil changes...that will do it.

[Alexlind123]

add a pint between oil changes...that will do it.

Seals?

[Russell]

Joking? never heard that before? If not joking, tell us more.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Joking? never heard that before? If not joking, tell us more.


....Joking..obviously!

You're all getting Ronco sarcasm detectors for Xmas, Chanukah, & Kwanzaa

[Russell]

Hey, I have seen things on BOBISTHEOILGUY forum that are a bit more strange than your "suggestion". These guys are serious.

BTW, I am not one to easily read sarcasm on a web post. I would rather not post non-useful information so, I assume others will not. No offense intended. Just me.

[kick7ca]

I think that's a pretty clean valvetrain.
I really don't think there is anything wrong with conventional oil, and I'm about to switch back considering it's half the cost of synthetic.

[BillionPa]

AutoRX is pretty good at keeping that crap off the metal and getting most of it off, even after 170K.

you will probably need 3 cycles though.

[attack eagle]

I like the golden tint.
GOld = good
brown = bad.

I always use dino too. And always will, unless I buy a car new that came with synth from the factory. If I have the money for a new car, I have won the lottery.

[Robert K]

I've read all about the virtues of synthetic, but when's the last time you heard of someone who changes their standard motor oil regularly having an oil related failure? Most auto manufacturers today recommend drain intervals at 5,000 - 7,500 miles with standard oil. I've even heard that the oil service light in our E34's can come on at up to 9,000 mile intervals...and that's with standard oil. I suppose it comes down to whether you REALLY do benefit from the advantages synthetic oil promises. Me, I don't think the added cost is worth negligible benefits. Especially is you don't live in extreme climates. I've run 20W50 Castrol GTX (which is what the BMW service dept. told me was the same oil as their BMW branded oil) in my 1991 535i since I bought it about 6 years ago. I've put approx. 85,000 miles on it and it still runs great. Also, when I do adjust my valves, everything is nice a clean, albeit with the golden hue to the parts. So, for me, I just can't justify the added expense for synthetic.

Grace and peace,

Robert K
1991 535i

[BillionPa]

well, when its -35C outside, so cold that the snow isnt even falling, dino just wont even try to cut it.

from what i can tell there are at least 8 types of dino base oils, all with different properties.

our engines have large oil capacity and should have no problem going 5000 miles on quality dino oil with high detergents and anti wear additives.

now here is something very important to consider. heavy weight oils mask engine problems by making them feel "smooth" which is the effect of the high fluid viscosity preventing movement of internal engine components. this lowers torque, dampens rattles and other minor sounds that most people associate with something off in the engine.

next time around try throwing german castrol syntec 0W30 in there and see how it sounds. you idle will be significantly higher, and the engine will rev much easier, but if there is something iffy you will be able to hear and maybe even feel it.

now im not saying to run it for the entire oil change, but you could just use it as a rinse oil for 100 miles or so to check it out.

remember, those numbers are the flow rate of the oil inside an engine, and at cold 10W oil flows about twice as much oil as 20W does. that doesnt mean to say that 20W doesnt flow enough, but that test is at a test with the engine coolant at 40C and not 10C or 0C, at those temps flow rates are rather different.

also, starter life is increased by using lower viscosity when cold oils. 0W60 will have longer starter life than 15W40.

of course there is more info, like seal leaking, additive packages, api specs, catalytic converter life, blah blah blah.

i think i went over all that crap in another thread so i end this one here.

[Russell]

Castrol Syntec 5w40 and 5w50 with german oil filters both seem to work well in my 95 M50. Currently 5w40. No cold start rattle. I aso did 2 Auto-RX cleaning cycles. BTW, I just did not like mobil 0w40. The engine seemed louder. Just my experiences to date.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Castrol Syntec 5w40 and 5w50 with german oil filters both seem to work well in my 95 M50. Currently 5w40. No cold start rattle. I aso did 2 Auto-RX cleaning cycles. BTW, I just did not like mobil 0w40. The engine seemed louder. Just my experiences to date.

Had the same experiance with my M50, it sounded like a diesel
VW rabbit on M1 0w40, so I run the syntech 5w50 now.

may try it on my M20 as well.

[Paul in NZ]

its a no brainer to me.I dont know any one who has a oil related failure either.But you drive around and you see identical aged cars some blowing smoke and others not.Whats the difference?maybe the smokey car has done a million ks,maybe not.all i know is this.The majority of engine wear is at start up,because the oil has to be pumped cold.The virtue of synthetic for me is a 5w or 0 w pumps straight away.Synthetics are expensive .Because of their superior performance Run mine for the full service interval,but with dino i would seriously consider changing it halfway.And besides when you say its expensive its less than a tank of gas isnt it.?my 2c

[AngryPopTart]

its a no brainer to me.I dont know any one who has a oil related failure either.But you drive around and you see identical aged cars some blowing smoke and others not.Whats the difference?

People not changing their oil when it needs to be changed. Just because synthetic doesn't "break down" from heat like dino oil, doesn't mean it doesn't get dirty. You can change your dino oil every 2k at $1.35 a qt. or you can change your synthetic oil every 6k at $4.05 a qt. You get the idea.

In any case, if you don't give oil a chance to go bad it won't. I'd rather change my cheap dino oil which is still good, but maybe a bit dirty at 2k miles worth of contaminants than change expensive synthetic which may still be good but now has had three times as long to collect contaminants at 6k.

[hk20000]

I should have taken pics of my never-dino'd M50 when I replaced my VCG..... it's just metallic silver shiny in there no gold/brown tinting bs.

[BillionPa]

People not changing their oil when it needs to be changed. Just because synthetic doesn't "break down" from heat like dino oil, doesn't mean it doesn't get dirty. You can change your dino oil every 2k at $1.35 a qt. or you can change your synthetic oil every 6k at $4.05 a qt. You get the idea.

In any case, if you don't give oil a chance to go bad it won't. I'd rather change my cheap dino oil which is still good, but maybe a bit dirty at 2k miles worth of contaminants than change expensive synthetic which may still be good but now has had three times as long to collect contaminants at 6k.


oil does get dirty, thats why there is a filter.

the lubrication and corrosion protection properties of oil are deplted by exhaust blowby, unfiltered intake leaks, internal engine wear, coolant contamination, fuel contamination, condensation, and aftermarket additives, however the "dirty" look of oil is usally caused by thermal breakdown rather than contaminants.

8 quart capacity E34 engines well tuned with good compression that pass leakdown and run mostly highway miles can pull off 25000 mile changes with good filtration and high SAPS synthetic oil. and the engine will be spotless when done.

that being said, if you run dino oil with short trips, it WILL be shot after about 3000 miles and you need to change it... it will have that black look to it that just makes your engine feel pain.

there is an amsoil dealer in town, and anytime a customer does an oil change at 3000 miles (against his recommendation of course) he runs the oil through one of the submicron bypass filters and keeps it in a jug to put in his trucks. and his truck has been running for 200000 miles like that, with 25000 mile intervals. of course he is running bypass filtration in the truck and is able to do it without consequence, so dont go doing that on your own now hear.