Removing the steering lock

[dternst]

Does anyone have knowledge of or a link to instructions to remove the steering lock (Item #2) from the steering cloumn? Better yet, the best way to remove the fracture bolts (Item #11) and the pipe clamp? I've searched Bentley and Haynes (useless piece of dung).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/n/s/6.png

As always, thanks in advance.

David

[Ross]

The shear bolts aren't so hard. Use a sharp chisel and bang around the perimeter for a quarter turn or so and they back right out.
I'm in full agreement on the Haynes books.
Has anyone else noticed that the replacement locks are exactly the same?
Every time I start the car with the wheel cocked a bit giving some resistance to turning the key visions of this repair come pouring in.

[dternst]

Thanks Ross for the help. Anyone else care to chime in?

[yaofeng]

I slotted the bolt with the tapered head so I can remove it. The pictures below may not have what you want to look for. I removed the steering column so I can change out the pedal for the 6 speed conversion. If the steering column is removed, everything will be apparent to you. But you don't need to go that far. Loosening it will get what you want.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3241.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3244.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3248-1.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3239.jpg

[PeteAB]

1995 525 iT 137K miles

I too, slotted the bolts with a Dremel, which worked really well. I am stuck trying to get the steering lock off of the steering column. It appears that there is a bearing holding the steering lock onto the steering column. I am hesitant to remove the bearing, because it doesn't come out easily. I get it half way out and when I let go, it gets sucked back in....
I have already removed the battery, key/ignition lock, ignition switch, and turn signals etc...
Will watch this thread for responses. I am hopoing someone has the experience removing it.
Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge..
Pete

[dternst]

There is a snap ring (item 5) that needs to be removed before removing the steering spindle bearing (item 2).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/n/m/3.png

[PeteAB]

Ah, yes... I had that half way off last night before I gave up. After the snap ring, is it clear sailing?

Thanks again!
PeteAB

[dternst]

Removing the steering lock itself requires a few good pulls. Replacing the snap ring is a bigger pain in the arse than replacing the steering lock. You will need something to pull the steering column out enough to replace the snap ring. The spring (item 7) in my previous post, will pull the steering column down slightly. I used a pry bar to pull and hold the column out enough to replace the snap ring.

http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/165649_4.jpg

[PeteAB]

Great... That helps out greatly....
Thanks again!

By the way, I could not find anything in the archives explaining what we just discussed. I would imagine you are now the know-all guru for this project....

Regards,
Pete

[Dash01]

On the '90 E34 at least, you can remove the st. lock assy. without removing the steering column. Use a Dremel with cutoff disk to cut the mild steel guard pieces above the cast st. lock housing, then slot the shear bolt for removal with a flat-blade screwdriver.

If the st. lock is stiff or jamming, it may be because of a broken alu. pin that is jamming the internal groove. You can inspect this with a flashlight and dental mirror, while still on the car and without removal of the st. wheel. That broken alu. pin is probably the only thing that could jam the internals, and once you get rid of it, all should be well. The pin was probably only in there to keep the internals together for assembly at the factory, and serves no other purpose.

If you have a heavy duty paper clip and can turn the ig. key to the 60 degree point, you can then remove the ig. lock and internal camshaft, get the broken pin out, and then re-assemble.

[dternst]

I performed the same search prior to making the original post. I took things very carefully not having any instructions. I'll do what i can to help everyone out. That's what this place is for...

[John in CT]

when my pin went south this spring, do you really think it went because i had the wheel cocked?

John
1995 525i 5 speed

[dternst]

You won't here this much about these cars but the part is poorly designed. The part is cast aluminum and is very thin in the area that it breaks. The tumbler pockets shears off the pin. I don' think it has anything to do with the steering wheel being cocked.

There are pictures floating in the archives of this part.

[dternst]

when my pin went south this spring, do you really think it went because i had the wheel cocked?

John
1995 525i 5 speed

It cost me roughly $280 (steering lock, tumbler, and iginition cable) and about 4 hrs of my time. I could do it in about an hour now. I didn't have any instructions.

[John in CT]

a real accident waiting to happen, the cross section where it broke was a little thicker than a pencil lead,

John

[PeteAB]

It's a little more difficult than what you mentioned in your previous post for my '95. Basically, I removed the *pin* in question by grinding if off at the bottom. The broken shaft that activates the ignition switch comes out, however, putting the new piece in is not possible, since the *locking* mechanism prevents this from happening without being able to access it on the steering lock mechanism. Accessing it requires removal from the steering column. I would guess that maybe Dternst decided to remove the whole steering lock, as I am presently doing, in order to be able to have that broken piece re-installed....
Regardless, Dternst has the knowledge that I require in order to complete the project. Much kudos to him for his expertise (as he is now the new know-all on steering lock, as far as I am concerned). :)
Thanks all for the input...
Pete

[kesslerbmw]

Wow, I can't believe some of you guys pulled the collumm. I did mine in about 2 hours. Heres a couple pics of it off, and a pic or two of what broke. I used a chisel and rotated the bolts until they were finger loose. I also used a paper clip to remove my tumbler. Not a hard job at all, just take your time.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/kesslerbmw/My%20cars/Img_0726.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/kesslerbmw/My%20cars/IMG_0729.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/kesslerbmw/My%20cars/IMG_0727.jpg

[dternst]

Did the same as you... there's no need to pull the column.

The "pulling the column" I referenced was to pull the column far enough up to replace the snap ring and capture the bearing and the spacer.

[kesslerbmw]

Did the same as you... there's no need to pull the column.

The "pulling the column" I referenced was to pull the column far enough up to replace the snap ring and capture the bearing and the spacer.
I was mainly refering to the pics on page 1

[dternst]

I was mainly refering to the pics on page 1

got ya...

[glee60]

Just out of curiosity... Would it be possible to swap the entire Ign. lock assembly from a '94 into my '89? Mine was kindly destroyed by the towing company and I have a '94 cheaply available to me with the key and column switches! As for the electrical, if there are any differences I can handle wiring them. TIA guys, I really appreciate any help in this matter!
Peace,
Chris

[dternst]

The parts are different enough between '89 and '94 that I don't know if they are interchangable. You would have to use the ETK to determine of those parts are interchangable or contact your local dealership parts department.