Fuel pump confussion

[Milkboot]

Well I am at a loss here, Aperntly i seem to have a fuel pump that noone else seems to have [well in offer to my request to find a fuel pump after mine had a slight accident http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=27701


When I look on Real OEM [Thanks for reminding me ///M-Power http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=16_0190&hg=16&fg=05 ] I have the pump pictured on the left out of the two that they show, but everyone else seems to have the one on the right, Is it safe to say i could still just drop it in and not have to worry about anything? As far as i know what is listed as #15 on my pump is a regulator of sorts, would it be safe to say it was no longer needed after a while and BMW just didnt include it on thier pumps?



I am so baffled by this its making it hard to sleep :P I just want to get my E34 running again *begs*

[Milkboot]

OK, so I am able to cross refrence some part numbers and find a short list of other BMW's that used my pump.


1989 - 1995 525I

1988 - 1992 735IL
1993 - 1995 525IT

1986 - 1987 L7
1989 - 1993 535I

1991 - 1993 M5
1987 - 1992 735I

Still cant find out what the differnce is between the one i got and what everone else has :(

[royal]

Its a shame you're on the other side of the world. I pulled a pump like yours out of a scrap car at the weekend and don't need it now as I bought the other model new a few days ago (not thats its made the car go, but thats another thread, I'm off to bang my head against a wall!).

[liquidtiger720]

The one on the right is the updated version I believe.


Some changes to your wiring will be needed. :D

[Milkboot]

Ahhh crap, What part of the wiring would be needed to change? as far as i saw on the pump there were only two wires leading to it :(



You are a bad bad kitty, bringing all this bad news to me :P

[KenB]

I changed mine yesteday, the new pump had the +/- terminals reversed and different connectors. I had to cut off old connectors and crimp new ones to the wires. A plastic shield holder came with the pump to hold the tabs in place and secure the connectors which need to be crimped as tight as possible. The darker wire is the + side and the lighter brown wire is -

Make sure and mark which hoses go where from the top of the sender unit to the pump (send and return). One has the wires tied to it and on mine did NOT go to the connection closet to the wire terminals. I did not mark them and got them reversed and got to do this job twice. (Don't make the same mistake I did, it really pissed me off!)

I cut the hoses just above the clamps since they were the crimp type and replaced them with new fuel system hose clamps from the dealer. I cut the ends of the hoses with a cigar cutter to get a nice even end. I did the same on the hoses on top of the sender unit under the access door. I did have new fuel injection rated hose I bought from the dealer but did not need it once the ends were cut. There is enough slack to cut an inch off the ends you need to re-attach.

The pump itself comes attached to a plactic ring type cradle with rubber suspension mounts and fits inside a receptacle mounted on the bottom of the tank. There are two tabs on the sides to release it when taking it out and it will click into place when you put the new one in which has to be positioned with the wire terminals facing toward you (towards the bumper) it will only go in one way and should snap in easily.

The sender unit rests on the bottom of the tank and has some resistance from a spring inside. There is an indentation in the receptacle that the pump goes into where the bottom of the sender unit goes next to. Orient the sender unit the same way it came out and re-attch the hoses.

I cleaned all the dirt from around the sender unit with a toothbrush and vaccuumed it to prevent dirt from getting in the tank. I also had a new gasket that the dealer had to special order for me. You might be able to re-use the old one if it is not cracked or distorted.

Pull fuse #23 and crank the engine to depressurize the system before starting. Some fuel will spill when you disconnect the hoses but not too much.

The dealer wanted $341 for the pump. I got mine from BMA for $199 and paid $7 for priority shipping. It was here in NJ in less than 36 hours. It took longer for the dealer to get the gasket. (2 days)

Hope this helps.

[Milkboot]

AWESOME, exactly what i wanted to hear :) so either pump is fine, and i got more offers for the OTHER kind of pump. I did like how you wrote out about the pump and its plastic housing, i only looked at it for a breif moment and figured i would save that headache for later :P


Thanks alot!

[KenB]

Glad to be of some help.

[winfred]

the two different style of pumps that came in e32/34s are interchangeable, the round disc on top of the older unit is a damper and not a regulator

[Milkboot]

Ooooooh, Does this this lil damper do?

[winfred]

nothing really they have all but been elimanated from the fuel systems, early 325e's use to be covered in them, seen 5 and 6 dampers scattred through the system and a couple years later in production they are all gone, it's like a mini regulator that is supposed to smooth the feed from the pump, but that's what the main pressure regulator does, seen a few of the old inline units screw up and block flow killing the car, but most of the time they have self destructed and rattle, haven't seen one of those pump mounted ones crap yet, maybe they suck less


Ooooooh, Does this this lil damper do?