I took out the SLS this weekend - got a question...

[shrike071]

'93 525iT

Got sick of the skateboard-like ride and ordered the Bavarian Imports kit with the Bilstiens, and got around to installing them this weekend. The whole project took me 3 hours and was well, well worth the effort. The only question I have for the others that did the swap is this: There was a bushing that came with the shocks that according to the instructions, "was not present on the standard". This bushing sat directly below the upper strut mount, and is about 1/2 inch tall. To me, it looks like it would have made the rear-end sit a little higher - which would make sense because of the extra weight of the wagon.

Well, I left them off, but kept them in the toolbox just in-case I decided to put em back in. I will rarely, if ever have anyone in the back seat. As such - the car appears to sit level. So that begs the question - what is the bushing for?

(edit: removed other stuff to start a new post)

[632 Regal]

that bushing or sleeve or whatever you want to call it is for different size strut mounts, some were small and some were larger hole, the bushing makes it possible to use the same shitty shock for more applications.

[brick8]

I also have a 1992 525it with the self-leveling suspension. It seems to function well. Just curious, what do you mean by "skateboard-like ride"? Was your sls leaking fluid or you just didn't like it? I am not crazy about having because of the unnecessary complexity and likelihood that it will eventually break, so I plan on replacing it eventually, but not until it starts to leak. However, if there is a significant handling improvement I might consider replacement sooner rather than later.

[shrike071]

what do you mean by "skateboard-like ride"? Was your sls leaking fluid or you just didn't like it?

The rear-end was completely locked-up. The driver's side shock was leaking fluid and it appeared that the only suspension the rear-end was offering was from the tires. Despite what Regal said, I found the 'sport' shocks and springs were a huge improvement. The car handles great and is back to being a pleasure to drive. To each their own.

Don't be intimidated by the install. If you order the kit from B.I., it won't come with a stitch of instructions on how to actually assemble the struts - but looking at a Bentley manual, you can easily figure it out (minus the bushing question that started this post!) My only hangup was that the pass. strut was completely stuck to the lower mount and I had to use a torch to heat it up and bash it with a 5-pound sledge to get it loose.

[attack eagle]

did you disable the SLS message? or does that kit leave the car close enough to stock that it doesn't get triggered?

I know where mine sits in the rear it would throw the message all the time after driving for a little while.

[shrike071]

did you disable the SLS message? or does that kit leave the car close enough to stock that it doesn't get triggered?


I was planning on following the directions posted on this board to disable the message, but so far, I have not had to. The kit comes with a bushing that simply connects the supply line to the return line, but no instructions on how to disable the message. I suspect it is because the car sits pretty level with just me in it and once I have a load, it'll pop up.

[attack eagle]

or you get on one of the "roller coaster roads".

[Anthony (M5 in Calgary)]

The rear-end was completely locked-up. The driver's side shock was leaking fluid and it appeared that the only suspension the rear-end was offering was from the tires. Despite what Regal said, I found the 'sport' shocks and springs were a huge improvement. The car handles great and is back to being a pleasure to drive. To each their own.

Don't be intimidated by the install. If you order the kit from B.I., it won't come with a stitch of instructions on how to actually assemble the struts - but looking at a Bentley manual, you can easily figure it out (minus the bushing question that started this post!) My only hangup was that the pass. strut was completely stuck to the lower mount and I had to use a torch to heat it up and bash it with a 5-pound sledge to get it loose.

Could have just changed the accumulators. I did mine recently and the skateboard like ride disappeared. Likely the shock would have stopped leaking as well. For my purposes, leaving the SLS on the car was the way to go. YMMV.

[OneBeLow]

where did you get the SLS delete from?

[shrike071]

I got the kit from Bav. Auto. It came with BMW-springs (complete with the BMW part sticker), shocks, mounts, nuts and bolts and gaskets. Exceptional kit for the price.

[95///M3]

I read something about shortening out pins to remove the mesage. Where exactly would this be located?

Jimmy

[attack eagle]

uner the rear seat... I think I posted the Faq I was sent here as well... but I'll repost it for you.


I got this info from "dmenheere" on another forum and just wanted to add it here for archival purposes with a few changes specific to already lowered cars. I also want to offer my sincere thanks to him for finding this info and forwarding it to me, as well as to the originator Kurt Lehman from the bmwe34m5 yahoo group. I owe you a cold one buddy!

Note: The wiring colors were a little off on the Touring, but the pin positions are the same. My changes/additions are colored for legibility.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Leman
Originally Posted by Kurt Lehman on the bmwe34m5 yahoo group

"RE: [M5] Help ... "Suspn Leveling" warning ...


Let me de-mystify the SLS sensor for you. Despite all the info to the contrary, it's just a switch. In typical German fashion, a fancy switch with non-contact sensing (so it has an easy-to-define "on" band, and won't wear out under constant high-frequency suspension motions), but it's still just a switch output (technically an open-collector transistor switch output.)

The operation is very simple: Centered, the output is grounded. Too high or
too low (spec'd as suspension height +/- 10mm) and the output is open, pulled "high" (near 12V) by the instrument cluster input. You can easily check this circuit and sensor operation as follows:

1. The sensor passes through a 21-pin connector next to the battery under the rear seat. This is an easy place to probe. Looking at the back of the
connector where the wires coming out of the rear floor enter the connector, the 3 wires in the center row of pins on one end are the sensor wires, pins 12, 13, and 14. Pin 12 (three from the end of the middle row) is a black wire with brown stripe and yellow dashes -- this is the sensor output. The next pin (13) is the ground, and the end wire in the middle row (14) is +12V power. You can easily probe with a DVM in the back of the connector.

2. Turn the key to the first "on" position. You should see 11-12V on pin 12
with respect to ground, and 0V on pin 14.

3. Turn key one more click to the "run" position.
STOCK: With car at nominal height, you should now see ~0V on pin 12 (~.35V) and +12V on pin 14.

LOWERED: If your car is lowered you will see voltage on pin 12 still. -A/E

4. STOCK: Jack up the right rear of the car, and at some large height, the output on pin 12 will rise suddenly to near 12V again.

LOWERED: Jack up the differential carefully by an inch or two to simulate "stock" ride height, you will notice that the voltage on 12 has now dropped to ~0V. -A/E
5. STOCK: Lowering the jack should bring pin 12 back "low". If you load the car enough, you can trip the sensor to "high" state again. You can also undo the one 10mm bolt holding the sensor on (leave linkage attached) and turn the sensor to see the above readings.

LOWERED: Lowering the jack will cause pin 12 to go back high again. -A/E


6. Cars with no SLS simply ground pin 12 to defeat the warning. You can do the same thing if you want to ignore the message if your sensor is bad and you don't want to replace it, or if your car is lowered with an SLS delete kit. You can simply place a jumper wire between the wires leading to pins 12 and 13.-A/E