anyone run mobil 1 0w-40 all year round?

[markus]

i live in PA where the temps are anywhere from -10 in the winter to high 90s 100 in the summer. Also what is the differences between the oil filters on the M60? I understand some require plastic ends and some require metal ends. What gives?

[Fetch]

Also what is the differences between the oil filters on the M60? I understand some require plastic ends and some require metal ends. What gives?

The plastic ends are newer. If you have a metal end, and would like to use a plastic end, you must buy part #19 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=11_1090&hg=11&fg=30&hl=3

Otherwise, the plastic filter will not fit correctly inside the stock filter housing.

I switched mine to use plastic end filters, so I had to seek out part #19.
Fortunatly a dealer within an hour from me had it. The guy behind the parts counter had never even seen it before and didn't even know he had it!!!

So, you can use either, just depends what you already have. If you do have a plastic end, make sure you have part #19 inside your oil filter housing, it is needed to make the plastic end oil filters fit correctly.

[markus]

thanks. so what if i buy a metal filter instead? can I just pull #19 out of my housing? I feel more secure using a metal end filter than plastic one. Is there a reason why BMW switched?

[Fetch]

Yes you can easily remove it, 19 snaps on, so you will have to pull it a little to get it to pop off.

Off the top of my head I do not know the reason for the switch

I do know that the bottom metal piece of the metal oil filter I had was stuck in the bottom of my filter housing!!! One can only assume that filter must have been in there for a long time? :(
I had quite the time getting that metal piece out too!

[BillionPa]

i run lubro-moly 0-40 year long.

temps run from -40 to 100F

[632 Regal]

they switched in an environmental effort to save the planet. no metal to throw away with the newer style. (also cheaper)

thanks. so what if i buy a metal filter instead? can I just pull #19 out of my housing? I feel more secure using a metal end filter than plastic one. Is there a reason why BMW switched?

[filip00]

i drive on Mobil S 10w40 all the time, the temps here are fron -15 C in winter to around 40 C in summer. that's from 5 F to 104 F. and no problem with it.

[cmk]

I've been running Mobil 1 0W40 for the last year and just replaced it again this weekend. Have found it great in the winter and no problems in the summer (Toronto, Canada).

[azale]

I've been running Mobil 1 0W40 for the last year and just replaced it again this weekend. Have found it great in the winter and no problems in the summer (Toronto, Canada).

Ditto for over here in Detroit: 200k miles and still going strong.

[Jimbo]

I also run 0W-40 all year around here in Kansas City. Seems like the best choice to me. We occasionally see 100F in summer and -10F in winter.

[semiretired]

i live in PA where the temps are anywhere from -10 in the winter to high 90s 100 in the summer. Also what is the differences between the oil filters on the M60? I understand some require plastic ends and some require metal ends. What gives?

I run Mobil 0W40 year round here in Atlanta. 242K miles and still going strong

[fkong777]

mobil 1 is no longer a class 4 synth oil. it is a class 3 now.

Go with royal purple. or lubro moly.. That stuff rocks.

[Fetch]

mobil 1 is no longer a class 4 synth oil. it is a class 3 now.

Go with royal purple. or lubro moly.. That stuff rocks.


I was reading about that on bobistheoilguy.


If I can get my oil leak fixed I would put in some nice expensive lubro moly :D

[DABLACK]

I live in Toronto like cmk and use 10/40 to 15/40 and NEVER have a problem

[Jimbo]

mobil 1 is no longer a class 4 synth oil.

What exactly does that mean, and did Mobil 1 actually reduce the quality of their oil or did the standards just change?

[fkong777]

What exactly does that mean, and did Mobil 1 actually reduce the quality of their oil or did the standards just change?

From all the rant in the oil forum and other car forums. Mobil 1 reduce the standard. class 3 by some is not considered to be 100% synth oil base.

[Jimbo]

From all the rant in the oil forum and other car forums. Mobil 1 reduce the standard. class 3 by some is not considered to be 100% synth oil base.

Thanks, I searched around bobistheoilguy.com for a while and found many mentions of it but no explanation.

I'm quite disappointed to hear that Mobil 1 thinks they can reduce quality while still charging $6 a quart. I might look in to some of these other (probably more expensive) oils for my next change.

[John B.]

I've been running the Mobil 1 0/40 for a year or more with no issues. Tired of paying $6 a quart though so at the next change I'm switching to Shell Rotella 5/40 synth which is $15 a gallon at Wally World.

[BillionPa]

class 3 by definition is not a synthetic base.

M1 isnt 100% synthetic anyway, the carrier oil (about 20% of the oil by weight) is group 3, which is highly refined dino.

also only the oils with low viscosity index like 5W30 and 10W30 changed to group 3, and for 2 important reasons.

1: HIGHER PROFIT. most people change their oil in the 3000 mile interval so it doesnt make much difference to the consumer, however to Mobil G-IV basestock is pretty much free, so they can make enormous profits from it.

2: LOWER VISCOSITY INDEX. 5/10W30 by definition doesnt have a high viscosty index, and using high vi synthetic base requires the use of viscosity index modifiers to get it there. so changing to G-III base is actually a good thing

.... as long as you dont go over 5000 miles or drive your car at high RPMs or live in an environment that requires higher VI or lower cold VI oil or have a car that isnt supposed to use/doesnt like that viscosity.

This isnt the reason why most people dont like M1. people like me wont use it in their cars because any [API SM] AND [ACEA A1/B1 or ACEA A5/B5] AND [ILSAC GF-4] rated oil has a phosphorous and zinc level that is a bit low for comfort, and specifies a maximum level of shear protection.

M1 0W40 is A3/B3, SM oil, so it still has low antiwear additives to be nice to catalytic converters, but doesnt skimp on shear protection. it is also BMW LL-01 approved.

diesel oils that meet API SJ/SL and ACEA E7 but NOT E6 are good if you do NOT have a catalytic converter.

you also want an oil with a flash point ABOVE 430F (220C) and friction modifiers to make it more slippery. motorcycle oils generally dont have friction modifiers and should be avoided. most M1 oils dont have much molybdenum, but make up for it with magnesium and some boron. molybdenum content means the oil has superior friction reduction, and a higher level of anti wear and extreme pressure protection.

M1 0W40 is about 70ppm Moly and 190ppm Boron, and 950ppm Phosphorous to keep it in API SJ/SL spec. M1 Delvac (truck % suv) has no Moly, about 1070ppm Phosphorous, and 430ppm Magnesium. the Delvac however has massively high particulates in the oil, which could mean nothing, but it looks filthy under a microscope.

I would not hesitate to use M1 0W40 in my engine, or in any engine specifying 0-10W30-40.

[Robin-535im]

class 3 by definition is not a synthetic base.

M1 isnt 100% synthetic anyway, the carrier oil (about 20% of the oil by weight) is group 3, which is highly refined dino.

also only the oils with low viscosity index like 5W30 and 10W30 changed to group 3, and for 2 important reasons.

1: HIGHER PROFIT. most people change their oil in the 3000 mile interval so it doesnt make much difference to the consumer, however to Mobil G-IV basestock is pretty much free, so they can make enormous profits from it.

2: LOWER VISCOSITY INDEX. 5/10W30 by definition doesnt have a high viscosty index, and using high vi synthetic base requires the use of viscosity index modifiers to get it there. so changing to G-III base is actually a good thing

.... as long as you dont go over 5000 miles or drive your car at high RPMs or live in an environment that requires higher VI or lower cold VI oil or have a car that isnt supposed to use/doesnt like that viscosity.

This isnt the reason why most people dont like M1. people like me wont use it in their cars because any [API SM] AND [ACEA A1/B1 or ACEA A5/B5] AND [ILSAC GF-4] rated oil has a phosphorous and zinc level that is a bit low for comfort, and specifies a maximum level of shear protection.

M1 0W40 is A3/B3, SM oil, so it still has low antiwear additives to be nice to catalytic converters, but doesnt skimp on shear protection. it is also BMW LL-01 approved.

diesel oils that meet API SJ/SL and ACEA E7 but NOT E6 are good if you do NOT have a catalytic converter.

you also want an oil with a flash point ABOVE 430F (220C) and friction modifiers to make it more slippery. motorcycle oils generally dont have friction modifiers and should be avoided. most M1 oils dont have much molybdenum, but make up for it with magnesium and some boron. molybdenum content means the oil has superior friction reduction, and a higher level of anti wear and extreme pressure protection.

M1 0W40 is about 70ppm Moly and 190ppm Boron, and 950ppm Phosphorous to keep it in API SJ/SL spec. M1 Delvac (truck % suv) has no Moly, about 1070ppm Phosphorous, and 430ppm Magnesium. the Delvac however has massively high particulates in the oil, which could mean nothing, but it looks filthy under a microscope.

I would not hesitate to use M1 0W40 in my engine, or in any engine specifying 0-10W30-40.
You're just making that all up.

:)

[BillionPa]

i pieced it together from old sugar packets.

also theres a typo in the higher profit line, it should be G-III basestock not G-IV basestock.