Want your M20 engine to run better?...

[Warren N.CA]

Then change your oil. But change it to Mobile 1 0W40. I was astounded at the improvement in smoothness, drivability, and idle quality changing to this oil provided, in my '90 325is 5-speed. It lets the car idle like its already warm, instantaneously after a cold start. Reduces any tendency to "bog" under partial throttle acceleration. I now need to take much more care not to rev too high before it warms up, because the engine now responds to throttle input when cold, almost the same as when fully up to temp.

Now I will speak HERESY:

In my opinion, the M20 in the 325is is a better engine than the double VANOS '99 328i E46 engine (i used to have.), and better than the M30 in my 535i. Better because it is smoother. So smooth that it rivals a Mazda rotary, in this aspect. Driving this car now is an unbelievably sensual experience.

George M. has shared with me his opinion that this smoothness may be the result of the much maligned timing belt. He thinks the flexible plastic belt may provide damping of vibrations in an effective manor that can't be replicated by a chain drive system. Sure, it's a pain in the butt to stay on top of the timing belt and keep it current. But if this is done, where is the advantage to the chain?

Sure, the M50 engines have higher specific output, but can they deliver the driving sensations that match the M20? Not for me. Not so far.

BTW, my 535i loves the 0W40, too, but the driving difference is noticeable mainly as smooth running at idle and just above, immediately after a cold start. The improvement after warmup and a high RPM is less dramatic.

[Rick L]

I too upgraded to Mobil 1 0W-40 over a month ago and my car seemed to run better. I put around 2k miles with this new oil and my engine seemed to perform better with added miles! Maybe it is cleaning out the crap in my engine. Also, my 525i used to make slight lifter noise for few minutes in cold starts. With Mobil 1 0W-40, I don’t hear that anymore. I believe this has a lot to do with the viscosity 0W which would allow faster flow within the vital engine parts in cold start. It doesn’t have to be in cold weather... Second, it has a higher flash point than the 15W-50. That means that it will withstand higher temperature! Check Mobil 1 web site. Mobil 1 0W-40 is better “all-around” oil than Mobil 1 15W-50. Also, it improves protection with multi-valve engines (M50). My engine just puuuurrrrrssss!

[Tiger]

Yep did it on my MB too.. at 200,300 miles... I have valve lifter problem that got worse a week ago after so long... affect drivability in term of acceleration stutter. Figured what the heck, put my not so dirty BMW Mobil 1 oil into it with Marvel Mystery Oil... if it doesn't work, I can always drain it out.

So... after 2 miles of driving, the stuttering went away immediately. The valve lifters were loud... Loud... Aw heck, why not let it run more... so about 200 miles later, back to very quiet... much less valve noise than when it had dino oil... ticking is minor now... hopefully it can all go away... and free up all my hydraulic lifters.

Car ran incredibly responsive and smooth. My fuel mileage is going up too. I will know when I run the tank down in a couple of weeks.

[winfred]

what flavor of benz? 201 and 124 bodys eat cams and rockers and to a lessor degree timing chain components, the chain stuff is a bitch but the cam and rockers are easy, don't gotta pull more then the valve cover


Yep did it on my MB too.. at 200,300 miles... I have valve lifter problem that got worse a week ago after so long... affect drivability in term of acceleration stutter. Figured what the heck, put my not so dirty BMW Mobil 1 oil into it with Marvel Mystery Oil... if it doesn't work, I can always drain it out.

So... after 2 miles of driving, the stuttering went away immediately. The valve lifters were loud... Loud... Aw heck, why not let it run more... so about 200 miles later, back to very quiet... much less valve noise than when it had dino oil... ticking is minor now... hopefully it can all go away... and free up all my hydraulic lifters.

Car ran incredibly responsive and smooth. My fuel mileage is going up too. I will know when I run the tank down in a couple of weeks.

[Tiger]

126 V8

[Tiger]

Why would the chain be a problem? I thought all you had to do is simply take the tensioner out... take the keys out of the cams... break the chain... hook new chain to old... turn engine over by hand... align and put key back in and done. I haven't done it yet... but my V8 needs one soon... original chain.

I know I can change the shims to compensate for that wear... but $7.50 for each shims? and many sizes and 16 valves? whooo.... too much money. I'll let the synthetic and marvel mystery oil do its work before I tackle that tapping.

[Tiger]

My family did have a 201 with I4 engine... yep... ate the cam... but it was not taken cared of by previous owner... lack of oil change will cause this problem.

[winfred]

i can't remember which bank wears faster but one cam wears a lot faster then the other because it's the last thing in the oiling system. motors with a single row chain are in big trouble about every 100k miles with the chain breaking (380's) others with double chains could use a chain about every 200k (450/500/420/560 in order of release) it's a good chance theres a flat lobe or two hiding in there. they sell parts to convert 380's to double chains, you can always tell a popped chain 380 from the lump on top of the left valve cover from the chain backing up, it's not a big deal to replace the cam in a v8


126 V8

[winfred]

replacing the chain without doing the sprockets is pissing in the wind, the area between the teeth wears down and a fresh chain will not fit into this area, this streches the new chain quickly. ever put a new chain on a motorcycle and not do the sprockets? it wasn't long before you had to readjust was it, same idea.


Why would the chain be a problem? I thought all you had to do is simply take the tensioner out... take the keys out of the cams... break the chain... hook new chain to old... turn engine over by hand... align and put key back in and done. I haven't done it yet... but my V8 needs one soon... original chain.

I know I can change the shims to compensate for that wear... but $7.50 for each shims? and many sizes and 16 valves? whooo.... too much money. I'll let the synthetic and marvel mystery oil do its work before I tackle that tapping.

[Hector]

both chains, cam shaft and oil pump sprockets in my m30. Having said this, you got the teeth from the crankshaft to deal with that are permanent though, I think. So there would still be a minor tweaking to the chain but that would be corrected from the chain tensioner. Is this right?


replacing the chain without doing the sprockets is pissing in the wind, the area between the teeth wears down and a fresh chain will not fit into this area, this streches the new chain quickly. ever put a new chain on a motorcycle and not do the sprockets? it wasn't long before you had to readjust was it, same idea.

[winfred]

11 21 1 265 011 Crankshaft Gear $43 list

[Hector]

So I can pull this sprocket out with the same gear puller I used to pull the harmonic balancer/vibration damper hub? Sounds like this could be a bitch.


11 21 1 265 011 Crankshaft Gear $43 list

[Tiger]

yep... the tensioner does the adjusting...

[Tiger]

Right side... I don't see any flat lobe... no abnormal wear on the cams that I have seen when I did the valve seals. My 380 is originally a double chain... 84-85 are double chained. I only noticed that some of my shims were stuck to the valve spring cap and some tapper were really stuck to the hydraulic. Little coking/varnish in the valve train area only. Otherwise, everything else is squeaky clean metal... not even varnish.

[Hector]

What's involved?


So I can pull this sprocket out with the same gear puller I used to pull the harmonic balancer/vibration damper hub? Sounds like this could be a bitch.

[winfred]

it's been a long time for me, if i remember right it comes off without too much trouble, the bitch is the 36mm on the front of the crank, it generally takes a 3/4 drive breaker bar 4' of pipe and some way to lock the crank, if the pan is off a block of wood between the crank and block, theres a tool that you bolt the the balencer that kinda works (i've seen a few of them wound up like springs, and it's like 3/8 steel)

[Hector]

I got the oil pan off, oil pump is out, upper and lower timing chain covers are off. I want to replace the camshaft sprocket, the oil pump sprocket, the camshaft-to-crankshaft timing chain and the crankshaft-to-oil pump chain.

Just want to know how difficult it is to replace the crankshaft sprocket?


it's been a long time for me, if i remember right it comes off without too much trouble, the bitch is the 36mm on the front of the crank, it generally takes a 3/4 drive breaker bar 4' of pipe and some way to lock the crank, if the pan is off a block of wood between the crank and block, theres a tool that you bolt the the balencer that kinda works (i've seen a few of them wound up like springs, and it's like 3/8 steel)

[Bill R.]

install I take a coffee can and fill it with a high temp oil such as gear oil or synthetic oil.. then place it on a hot plate and heat it up with the new gear immersed in the oil, obviously you don't heat the oil up until boiling but pretty hot, usually 10 or 15 minutes depending on the hot plate..when its good and hot you carefully grab the gear with some pliers and slide it on the crank quickly before it cools down.. Its really quite easy after you do it once.Just make sure you have everything ready to go before you heat the gear and make sure that any dots ,arrows etc are facing the correct direction, you don't want to have to pull it off again..





QUOTE=Hector]I got the oil pan off, oil pump is out, upper and lower timing chain covers are off. I want to replace the camshaft sprocket, the oil pump sprocket, the camshaft-to-crankshaft timing chain and the crankshaft-to-oil pump chain.

Just want to know how difficult it is to replace the crankshaft sprocket?[/QUOTE]

[Hector]

I got a hot plate from work I can borrow. I'm glad I asked. Do I use the same technique of oil heating when it comes time to install the vibration damper/harmonic balancer hub? I had to use a gear puller to get it off so I presume I may have to use this oil treatment to get the hub back on, right? Thanks for the advice.


install I take a coffee can and fill it with a high temp oil such as gear oil or synthetic oil.. then place it on a hot plate and heat it up with the new gear immersed in the oil, obviously you don't heat the oil up until boiling but pretty hot, usually 10 or 15 minutes depending on the hot plate..when its good and hot you carefully grab the gear with some pliers and slide it on the crank quickly before it cools down.. Its really quite easy after you do it once.Just make sure you have everything ready to go before you heat the gear and make sure that any dots ,arrows etc are facing the correct direction, you don't want to have to pull it off again..





QUOTE=Hector]I got the oil pan off, oil pump is out, upper and lower timing chain covers are off. I want to replace the camshaft sprocket, the oil pump sprocket, the camshaft-to-crankshaft timing chain and the crankshaft-to-oil pump chain.

Just want to know how difficult it is to replace the crankshaft sprocket?[/QUOTE]

[Bill R.]

light amount of friction if you clean up all the surfaces, sometimes you have to use a dead blow hammer to help install but usually not. Once its on far enough use the bolt to pull it in..




I got a hot plate from work I can borrow. I'm glad I asked. Do I use the same technique of oil heating when it comes time to install the vibration damper/harmonic balancer hub? I had to use a gear puller to get it off so I presume I may have to use this oil treatment to get the hub back on, right? Thanks for the advice.

[/QUOTE]

[Bill R.]

2 screwdrivers or 2 drift punches, whatever... one on each side of the gear so you get an even push....the key is smoothness and not wasting any time or motion...






I got a hot plate from work I can borrow. I'm glad I asked. Do I use the same technique of oil heating when it comes time to install the vibration damper/harmonic balancer hub? I had to use a gear puller to get it off so I presume I may have to use this oil treatment to get the hub back on, right? Thanks for the advice.

[/QUOTE]

[Hector]

2 screwdrivers or 2 drift punches, whatever... one on each side of the gear so you get an even push....the key is smoothness and not wasting any time or motion...





[/QUOTE]

[Bill R.]

while you start it on with the pliers you picked it up with, a helper takes a screwdriver in each hand and pushes it the rest of the way on, pushing equally all the way around the gear...




[/QUOTE]

[Hector]

while you start it on with the pliers you picked it up with, a helper takes a screwdriver in each hand and pushes it the rest of the way on, pushing equally all the way around the gear...




[/QUOTE]

[Shawn D.]

both chains, cam shaft and oil pump sprockets in my m30. Having said this, you got the teeth from the crankshaft to deal with that are permanent though, I think. So there would still be a minor tweaking to the chain but that would be corrected from the chain tensioner. Is this right?
While it is a PITA, you can replace the crankshaft sprocket on an M30. It requires major disassembly of the radiator and front of the engine, and a hefty breaker to undo the crank nut which is torqued to 350 ft-lbs!