1989 E34 525i Blown Fuse 1

[Violia]

Trying to fix the Service Light Indicators have taken out Fuse No 1
all the dashboards lights, brake lights etc.

Keep putting in new fuse and it jus keeps blowing.

Can you please help a girl out urgently

[aston_jag_tech]

That sucks. You should get a hold of a wiring diagram. The problem is that the circuit has too much amperage and is bllwing the fuse. Most likely. If you have anything aftermarket installed I would start there. Or if anyone has been hacking your electrical or anything on the car.:D

[Violia]

Do u know were I can get hold of an easy to use wiring diagram pl?

[shogun]

There is no easy to use wiring diagram, all are difficult to read if you do not have a basic knowledge about that
http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/

First of all, tell us exactly how you tried to reset the service interval, in DETAIL.
What tool did you use?
Which pin(s) did you connect?

[Violia]

There is no easy to use wiring diagram, all are difficult to read if you do not have a basic knowledge about that
http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/

First of all, tell us exactly how you tried to reset the service interval, in DETAIL.
What tool did you use?
Which pin(s) did you connect?

I took a piece of wire one that was resistant enough to take the voltage
we put it between Pin 7 & Pin 1 to reset the Service Instrument Panel.
Then when I put it in there I put in the key and turned it to No 2 and waited for the lights to change. As far as I can remember it obviously did not work and then I turned it off and then I wiggled the piece of wire at the 7 & 1 Pin and maybe pushed it a bit too far.

Now I have no Service Instrument lights, no brake lights, none of the Gauges on the Instrument Panel are working? These are all connected to Fuse No 1.

Please help me.

Violia

[Tiger]

What car do you have again? Could you please read off the date of manufacture on the door sill? Could you please write all the description that the fuse list says is on number 1.

What is the shape of your diagnostic hookup? Big round about 2.5" round or small 1.4" 3/4 circle and flat spot?

[Jon K]

Are you certain you put it in the diagnostic port and not the other port?

[Violia]

What car do you have again? Could you please read off the date of manufacture on the door sill? Could you please write all the description that the fuse list says is on number 1.

What is the shape of your diagnostic hookup? Big round about 2.5" round or small 1.4" 3/4 circle and flat spot?


Tiger I am in OZ ( Australia) and the car I have is a 1989 E34 525i M20 2.5litres Manual so it is not the standard car that you may be seeing in the USA.The diagnostic hook up is BIg Round about 2.5" round.

Fuse No 1 carries - Instrument Cluster, Brake Lights. I really need you help

[Violia]

Are you certain you put it in the diagnostic port and not the other port?

I am positive it was put in the right position, but this is no longer the problem as the problem is the continual blwoing of Fuse 1 when we try to start the car.

Please look at the thread I just posted as it gives a better description of the car.

[Chris'91'525i]

I took a piece of wire one that was resistant enough to take the voltage we put it between Pin 7 & Pin 1 to reset the Service Instrument Panel.
Then when I put it in there I put in the key and turned it to No 2 and waited for the lights to change. As far as I can remember it obviously did not work and then I turned it off and then I wiggled the piece of wire at the 7 & 1 Pin and maybe pushed it a bit too far.
Please help me. Violia

From reading your original post everything was OK before you tried the reset with a piece of wire.
The problem is most likely where you you last worked on the car.
Is it possible you pushed the #1 or #7 connector element down into the data-link connector plug ?. It might be causing a short circuit down inside the data-link plug ?
It's the only thing I can think to check.

[Tiger]

Violia... In a recap of what you did... you attempted to reset service/oil light. In the diagnostic cap, you connected pin 1 and pin 7.

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/diag_s.htm

The above is the diagnostic style you claimed you have... you were supposed to connect between 7 and 19... not '1'. BUT you said you have a 15 pin diagnostic center...

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34180&highlight=reset+service+engine

and that shows it should be pin 1 and 7.

So which diagnostic socket do you have?

I know you disconnected the brake switch and it still blows... did you also leave the CCM and LKM modules out also?

There is two possibilities of other short... one is your instrument cluster... and the OBD center unless you have a analog clock or very simple digital clock... Disconnect the OBD/clock to see if it still blows the fuse.

If it still does blow the circuit, then I'd disconnect the instrument cluster to see if it still blows... If yes, then I'd suspect the climate control (part of instrument cluster lighting).

[Javier]

brake lights.

Think you should follow the advice given to you and unhook the cluster (be careful removing your wheel if you have airbags, special procedure required!). If your car has adjustable wheel column, you may not need to remove the wheel to take out the cluster.


Also unhook cruise control (If you have one) and brake light switch. If Fuse 1 stays, then hook the cluster and check if the fuse holds, if not, sorry, you have a cluster issue. Doubt you fried it connecting anything to pin 1 or 7 if you have a 15 pin connector. 1 is ground 7 is an input to be connected to ground. If you missed them, that is another story.

Javier

Edit: By the way, reset procedure only works if you remove the jumper wile the ignition switch is still on.