Somebody Use No Lifetime Atf

[Unregistered]

I want to know if can I use no lifetime transmition fluid? if yes, which one?

[winfred]

oh sure what the hell , doctor dixons double nut root oil is all i use.

a year and model of car just may help

[Unregistered]

Sorry!! my car is 540i/94 and the owner manual said use lifetime transmition fluid, my big problem in this area nobody know about this, and somebody else told me "I'm working in automatic transmition for 35 years and never listen about it"

[winfred]

there has been a lot of talk about what will work but nothing is really certain on what will not affect the life span of the tranny in a bad way, the factory fluid is around $100 a gallon at the dealer and a rebuilt tranny can run $2000, you don't exactly want to kill your tranny with the wrong stuff, id stick with the dealer fluid

[Tiger]

Ya know... if your tranny is near the end of life, then it wouldn't really matter because you need rebuilding... Let's say someone got. Most tranny that have lived in city or suburb area with normal driving of mmm... 60% city/40% highway, tends to see the life of the tranny at about 150,000 miles. Those cars that are highway warriors see about 220K miles... generally speaking.

So if your car is at 110K miles and you want to change the tranny fluid... with expectancy of 40K miles... 2 years or three... I don't see the harm of using other compatible fluids such as Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle, Quaker State Multi-Vehicle, or Redline ATF D4. I strongly suspect the Pennzoil and Quaker State is same stuff as Shell OEM... why? Because Shell owns both company... and the both product is semi synthetic.

American culture is easy way out... Look at GM, Ford, Chrysler... oil companies are no different... if it doesn't cost a dime for research and good for most tranny... sell in bulks... profit is up. In the case of Shell, because the product is so limited usage, that's why price is way up there... and now just recently they released this Multi-Vehicle formula... I think it is the same stuff.

[632 Regal]

If you do any research into this issue the fluid the trans is made to work with has exactly whats needed, if you use other fluids they actually break down the glue that holds the friction material on the clutches. Not actually a good thing on any transmission let alone a tired one. You might get lucky and get a month or 6 months out of it with "other" fluids. The 540 trans is just one that happens to require the expensive stuff.

[Unregistered]

Thanks guys for your help, I let you know what going on in the future.

[l8apex]

I am the original owner of a 1994 540iA. It now has nearly 180,000 (mostly highway) miles on the original tramsmission and Nikasil block. I drive my car almost exclusively on the track these days, and I don't baby it. I have considered changing the "lifetime" fluid several times in the past, but was talked out of it each time. The best arguement not to change it that I have heard goes something like this:
It was really intended to last the life of the transmission, which is probably between 150,000 and 250,000 miles. If you change it, even if you use the "lifetime" fluid as a replacement, the "fresh" fluid will probably loosen up deposits and cause them to circulate throughout the transmission, thus decreasing it's life expectancy.
Another good arguement is that it's impossible to remove even half of the transmission fluid without pulling the transmission out and draining the torque converter. Why pull the transmission in order to do a fluid change? A series of "partial" fluid changes will gradually "dilute" the original fluid, but at the considerable expense of also losing a percent of the "fresh" fluid. As you progressivly drain and refill the transmission, each time it is drained, you lose a larger percentage of "fresh" fluid, making it progressively more expensive.
I have heard many arguments against using anything except the recommended "lifetime" fluid if you are going to change it. Cutting expenses by using a substitute is false economy, as the transmission will probably wear faster than it would otherwise.

[632 Regal]

But I feel that changing 3 quarts or so at a time is better than none at all and also better than changing all of it at once because of the deposit clogging issues. If I had one of those 5hp22 trannies (I think) I wouldnt be afraid of changing the filter a few times till the fluid was cleaner. Have to drive at least 1000-1500 miles between changes as to not upset everything at once. What I read was lifetime meant 80-100k not 200k.

Im glad my trans (5hp18) takes the dextron III its cheaper but the trans is weaker so I will have to hold back on the Nitro Methanol at the track for now. Not to mention how small the ring and pinion setup is on these non-540 vehicles, no trans brake either.

[NoSpeedLimits]

For what it's worth, when I had gone to the local stealer to discuss the trans fluid change, the mechanic (not the appointment scheduler) confirmed exactly what you guys are saying.

Hay I8apex, question for ya, since you take your car to the track I figured you ought to know the answer to my silly question: with the traction control turned off, heading in a straight line, from a stand still, pedal to the floor take off, is it possible to spin the rear wheels? TIA. Other input welcomed... I fear that something is wrong... I would have thought that the V8 would require some feathering of the throttle at take off.

BTW. I was also wondering if anyone could provide me with the weight of a 94 540ia?

[Unregistered]

OK thanx for all information, I'll change the trans fluid now with lifetime, I thing I'll sped more money now but same a lot later, did somebody change it, how many qtrs I need. My trans is 5HP 30, the dealer said just sale this fluid in 5 qtrs can, at $140.00

[Drooby]

BTW. I was also wondering if anyone could provide me with the weight of a 94 540ia?

1994 540i
Curb Weight 3,804


Gross Vehicle Weight 3,804

[l8apex]

The volume available and price sound about right.
The official word from the manual....

1. After draining, with the engine stopped, add oil to the transmission until it overflows.
2. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Place the selector lever in
Park position and start the engine.
3. Follow the fluid level checking procedure as described under step A.
Notes on fluid level checking and adding transmission oil:
• All lifetime use oils (Shell LA 2634, Esso ATF LT 71141, Texaco
ETL 7045, Texaco ETL 8072 B) are to be collected in a clean
container and reused.
• It is preferred to check the transmission fluid level at 30°C, this way
the transmission will hold extra oil versus topping off at 50°C.
• If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level
checking procedure, the resulting oil level will be too low.
• Have necessary equipment, oil pump and transmission fluid available
before starting the fluid level checking procedure.


1. The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before
checking fluid level can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the
transmission temperature.
2. The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running,
switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and
ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
3. Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the
selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
4. With the engine running and the selector lever in Park position, remove
the filler plug ¡ located on the transmission (see picture for location).
If a small stream of oil runs out, the fluid level is correct.
5. If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too
low. Add oil until it starts to overflow.
6. With the engine running, reinstall the oil filler plug.

[l8apex]

I understand your concern. I would not expect to be able to "burn rubber" doing a "convertor dump" with a stock 540. Obviously, traction control will prevent wheel spin if it's on, however this has nothng to do with traction control being on or off. It also doesn't have much of anything to do with whether you have a limited slip differential or not, although an open diff will tend to cause spinning on one side or the other, depending on which tire has more traction. The problem is also not because the engine makes insufficient power, or that the power losses in the driveline are excessive.
It's a simple matter of the differential being geared too high (numerically low) to be able to put the power down. The 540iA comes with a 2.93:1 diff ratio, which is ridiculously high. I'm sure that this was done deliberately in order to improve fuel economy and to help it to cruise at highway speeds at a low RPM. It was designed as a "luxo-rod" after all....
With this gearing, the car is theoretically capable of a ridiculous top speed of over 200mph. I don't know if it can attain this speed or not, but I'm sure that it would require a VERY long, level course. The car is able to perform well with such a high gear because it has plenty of low-end torque, it just can't overcome the gearing to break the tires loose and spin them.
I am able to break my tires loose ;o)
I installed a 3.46:1 gearset with a Quaiffe automatic torque biasing unit.
Before the Quaiffe unit, my rear tires regularly wore much less than my front tires. Now I'm able to wear both front and rear tires out equally fast! :D

[Unregistered]

Any thoughts on use of Redline? This for a 1990 535i.

[Bill R.]

economy, I would agree with you to some extent, but by the same token the manufacturer doesn't want wheel spin to occur for good reason. So gear ratios, tire size and horsepower are carefully matched up to prevent this from occuring. Traction control devices i think are intended to limit slippage under undesirable conditions such as ice snow poor traction surfaces, but the choice of wheel, tire, diff ratio, torque converter stall speeds etc are done to avoid tirespin... I know this is obvious to you but it may not be to some of the others... fast cars don't spin the tires..









I understand your concern. I would not expect to be able to "burn rubber" doing a "convertor dump" with a stock 540. Obviously, traction control will prevent wheel spin if it's on, however this has nothng to do with traction control being on or off. It also doesn't have much of anything to do with whether you have a limited slip differential or not, although an open diff will tend to cause spinning on one side or the other, depending on which tire has more traction. The problem is also not because the engine makes insufficient power, or that the power losses in the driveline are excessive.
It's a simple matter of the differential being geared too high (numerically low) to be able to put the power down. The 540iA comes with a 2.93:1 diff ratio, which is ridiculously high. I'm sure that this was done deliberately in order to improve fuel economy and to help it to cruise at highway speeds at a low RPM. It was designed as a "luxo-rod" after all....
With this gearing, the car is theoretically capable of a ridiculous top speed of over 200mph. I don't know if it can attain this speed or not, but I'm sure that it would require a VERY long, level course. The car is able to perform well with such a high gear because it has plenty of low-end torque, it just can't overcome the gearing to break the tires loose and spin them.
I am able to break my tires loose ;o)
I installed a 3.46:1 gearset with a Quaiffe automatic torque biasing unit.
Before the Quaiffe unit, my rear tires regularly wore much less than my front tires. Now I'm able to wear both front and rear tires out equally fast! :D

[Bill R.]

Here's Jaggi (http://www.jie.com/trans/bmwtrans.htm)


Here's Peter Schmid
(http://www.peterschmid.com/)





OK thanx for all information, I'll change the trans fluid now with lifetime, I thing I'll sped more money now but same a lot later, did somebody change it, how many qtrs I need. My trans is 5HP 30, the dealer said just sale this fluid in 5 qtrs can, at $140.00

[632 Regal]

fast cars don't spin the tires...That is so true, if the Regal had tires that would spin, it would probably spin at 180mph for as long as you could aim it. I love doing shake downs while I heat the 33" slicks up tho. :D

[NoSpeedLimits]

whew, and I thought there was something wrong with my power plant... thanks for clearing the water :) as for why I want to spin the tires...let just say this aging man is attempting to revisit those childhood days...it's been a while since I had a v8 under the hood.

Soooo, what's it cost to get my hands on a 3.46:1 gearset w/ a Quaiffe automatic torque biasing unit???? cheaper than a new used muscle car :)

[l8apex]

If we're talking about performance, you want to transfer as much power as possible to the ground through the tires without slipping.
Truth to tell, burnouts are really only for show, and are hard on the running gear, not to mention the tires.
As far as the cost of the conversion, mine was done a few years back, so I am not up on current pricing. I had mine done by Brett Anderson at Koala Motorsports. www.koalamotorsport.com . He knows his stuff, and does a great job. He will also give you no-bulls..t answers and won't steer you wrong. Highly recommended.