Busted a wire for the knock sensor while pulling intake

[bbig119]

I found a wire on my intake that shouldn't have been there. I traced it back to what looks like the driver side, rear knock sensor.

It looks like I'm gonna have to replace at least one of these, should I do all of them now? or just the one.

What sort of work is involved in replacing this? It looks like a big pipe runs right next to it.

Son of a bitch!!

[Antrieb]

Ok two things.

1. When I took my intake manifold and heads off my 530i I busted one of the knock sensors where it connects to the block. Just do one of them, its not a part that is supposed to fail ever so getting all of them is a waste of money. Cheapest place I could find them was www.autohausaz.com and I think they were like $120.

2. When I put my engine back together, I also had an extra wire with a connector one it. Apparently it is supposed to be extra if you car has ACS.


Hope that helps :)

[Alpinewhite]

Sorry to hear this man. May be it was contributing to some of the problems and it had to be replaced anyway.

I searched the Real OEM it is part 15 in the link.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=11_1510&hg=11&fg=10

Its $65.02 at the bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com. shop around

How bad did you bust it? Picture?

The pipe that runs next to it is coolant pipe. Other members might be able to tell you if it is possible to remove passenger side knock sensors with out removing the coolant pipe.

Arun

[winfred]

id nut up and do all of them if you plan to keep the car for two reasons, 1st it's a bitch job to go back and replace one after you put the intake back on, 2nd they gradually go deaf and get less sensitive and a new one may piss off the computer, if you can't figure out how to sneak it out from under the water pump pipe you need to pull the pump to get the pipe out of the way

[bbig119]

id nut up and do all of them if you plan to keep the car for two reasons, 1st it's a bitch job to go back and replace one after you put the intake back on, 2nd they gradually go deaf and get less sensitive and a new one may piss off the computer, if you can't figure out how to sneak it out from under the water pump pipe you need to pull the pump to get the pipe out of the way

Winfred that's not the answer I wanted to hear. I went and got one from the stealer for close to $100. I'd like to do all four, but I'm poor and it means my car would be down for another week until parts arrive-- given the holiday and all.

So I tried to back the bolt of the broken one out, and its very close to coming out, but it starts pushing up on the pipe. Its can't be more than a couple millimeters away from coming out. Question is-- how much can that pipe withstand before I damage it to the point of needing replacement?


Edit: I've never taking the water pump off, do I need to get the car up in the air to remove the water pump?
I've got the hood off for the intake and my shitty jack and stands are 45mins away.

[winfred]

you can unbolt one on the other side to see how long the bolt is, if you just have a mm or two it can stand a little flexing but it's up to you decide what's too far, if you need to remove the pump and the pump is original id get a new one as that's a fair pain of a job on it's own, the pump can be done on the ground

[bbig119]

It looks like the pump has to come out. There's maybe 3-4mm left within the block, but it going to have to push up a good bit on the pipe to get it out. Even if I'm able to do that without damaging the pipe, I'm not sure I can get the new one in. I'll still call the stealership and see if I can get an answer otherwise, but I'll have to go down there to get the gaskets for the pipe at the very least.

Two questions on this:

Do I need to drain the block to do this?
How do I drain the block? -- especially without jacking up the car.

[winfred]

the block will drain when you pull the pump, it doesn't need to be drained before hand and will make about the same mess as it would if you tried to pull the drain plugs (which are a pain in the ass to get to)

[bbig119]

the block will drain when you pull the pump, it doesn't need to be drained before hand and will make about the same mess as it would if you tried to pull the drain plugs (which are a pain in the ass to get to)


Thanks winfred, I've got the radiator drained and the fan clutch removed. So hopefully now I don't run into any more snags or need any other parts from BMW or else this thing sits until Tuesday.

[632 Regal]

one of the lower bolts on the pump is a total PITA, can only turn it about 1/32 at a time unless you remove the harmonic balancer.

[bbig119]

one of the lower bolts on the pump is a total PITA, can only turn it about 1/32 at a time unless you remove the harmonic balancer.

I see that bolt. I also see form searching around that you've done it without removing the balancer and have recommended it to others. What are your thoughts?

So I got the one belt off, but I don't see any mention of removing the other belt which also loops through the harmonic balancer. I tried to break one of the 13mm bolts on the balancer and it pretty much just turned the crank. Is there a way to lock it up? I'm under the impression that I don't need to remove the large 27mm bolt that requires over 300lbs of torque to put back, correct? What do I need to be careful about when dealing with this harmonic balancer?

Of course I can give another try at removing that stubborn bolt on the water pump without touching the balancer.