Clutch tomorrow - couple last min questions

[Jon K]

I read a write up on Pelican for an E36: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_Replace.htm

It says the start bolts are near impossible to get to. On an E36 I can see that being an issue - but is it really a problem on an E34 525i?

To the guys who do this **** all the time - are the transmission bolts THAT hard to reach?

[Kalevera]

It's only the upper bolt, and it's not that bad. I've seen some guys get frustrated with it and attempt to get it from the top, but that's a difficult proposition without two people.

My trick is to either force a small wrench up there or use a flex head + socket. Removal is easier than install, installing requires even more dexterity and contortion ability to get the nut on the bolt. Once the nut is on, having an impact gun with a long extension makes things easy.

I once did a clutch job on a 525/M50 car that had been subjected to some DIY hacking. The owner had installed an engine by dumping it through the front of the car with the transmission suspended in place. He then put the bolt in backwards (starter side). I was ready to commit crimes, I think it took 45 minutes of engineering to get that out.

[Jon K]

Kalevera - how long for a whole clutch change you think?

[Dave M]

In short:

No, the entire job should take less than a half day. Once the exhaust is dropped and the driveshaft/guibo/linkage is disenfranchised, the only potentially difficult maneuver is removing the bell housing torx bolts. They are a variety of sizes (make sure you have an assortment) and the top-most bolt (s) around the starter can be reached easily with >= 12” and assortment of 6” 3/8” extensions. I had someone hold the torx bits on the bolts while I cracked them. The easy part is removing the tranny. The difficult part is putting it back together. The metal ‘shim’ between the engine and tranny may prove to be a B!atch when aligning the bolts. Oooops, forgot, you may have a more difficult intake to deal with. Once a normally aspirated intake is removed, the job is made relatively simple.

It’s a grunt labour job (without a lift) which I wouldn’t want to do more than once a year. Otherwise, it’s easy :D

Dave M

[Jr ///M5]

Just remember that when you drop the exhaust, you might need new gaskets too, not to mention new bolts for the exhaust in case they break or are too worn to re-use.

You're probably aware of all the extentions that is needed to access the male torx bolts, a 15 degree wobble head will help considerably especially on the upper bolts. Air makes it a breeze. Also make reference where the bolts go, there are a couple different lengths, so don't forget what goes where.

Last but not least, since you're dropping the driveshaft, you might want to replace the guibo and center bearing. Just make sure you index everything so it goes back in the original position.

Have fun Jon.

JR

[Jon K]

Thanks dave and JR - the exhaust is a single v-band connector for the turbo which doesn't have a gasket, woo! And the guibo and CSB were replaced not long ago. Thanks for the heads up - this should be interesting to say the least.

[Bill R.]

its frequently alot easier if you remove the fan clutch and the shroud first so that you can remove the rear trans mount and support the trans on a floor jack, you can then lower the rear of the trans some to allow access to the upper bell housing bolts easier, if you do this with the fan still on , it will hit the radiator as the engine tilts.






Thanks dave and JR - the exhaust is a single v-band connector for the turbo which doesn't have a gasket, woo! And the guibo and CSB were replaced not long ago. Thanks for the heads up - this should be interesting to say the least.

[BlueM60]

Just a tip when going back together. The reason they say the starter bolt at the top is such a bitch is because it has a nut on the back, which is a paint to hold while trying to start the bolt back in. Take a dab of super glue and stick it to the starter while you can get to it, this will make it much easier, especially if your just doing the job yourself. The only clutch job Ive done in the driveway was on an E30 318is and that was a breeze. The tranny tunnel on a 525 is pretty open though, it wont be that bad.

-Ben

[Jon K]

Just a tip when going back together. The reason they say the starter bolt at the top is such a bitch is because it has a nut on the back, which is a paint to hold while trying to start the bolt back in. Take a dab of super glue and stick it to the starter while you can get to it, this will make it much easier, especially if your just doing the job yourself. The only clutch job Ive done in the driveway was on an E30 318is and that was a breeze. The tranny tunnel on a 525 is pretty open though, it wont be that bad.

-Ben

Ben I got the trans out in under 2 hours. The starter bolts were easy I slipped a ratchet with a 16mm socket on the nut and my buddy hit the torx bolt with his brute strength (haha). Our hardest problem was getting the starter off of the trans, or vice versa. It didn't want to let go. I have the transmission on the floor - the only problem now is that ClutchNet sent me a 240mm M3 clutch disc and it doesn't fit my 228mm 525i flywheel so I am ****ed waiting til monday to call them.

[BlueM60]

Cool, well be sure to sand those dowels off a bit and dab them with anti-sieze, this will make it slide in much easier to get back in. Sucks about the clutch.

-Ben