If good replace anyway?

[Jehu]

I am approaching readiness on the Heater Core job.I have a heated garage where i can do it and have my laptop plugged in to at least reference offline the available DIY guides.In reading other posts about the job it seems some find the O-Rings were the culprit and the core still intact, other find the core leaking.I plan on buying the core but if I first try just replacing the O-Rings and that stops my leak would i be well advised to go ahead and replace the core while i have it accessible or save the money and return the core keeping the old one in place.In other words do the cores end up failing ultimately anyway?I wonder if having faulty Water/heater valves resulted in the failure of whatever is leaking down there.... I knew i should have replaced those when i learned they were bad months ago..

[markus]

i never did one but it sounds like a bitch. this seems like one of those jobs you only want to do once.

[Jehu]

I'm looking forward to it but its gotten to the point that I'm getting headaches breathing the coolant and I'll be damned before i pay someone with a BMW certificate to spend 12 hours just taking my interior apart at $90/hr.I've taken small sections of the interior apart before taking the radio and OBC out or and getting to the Micro filter to change it.Ryan posted a pretty nicely detailed step by step from someone who did theirs and I've seen some pics of different stages.Good ideas like putting the screws and bolts right back into the pieces they go in as you remove them and having a few old towels to cover the pathway the core will follow as i take it out ,maybe stuffing the openings with paper towels too. As long as i am warm and will be undisturbed i don't see any reason i won't be able to get it done in a day and save over a Grand.I need a Zero Gravity recliner for enjoying my stereo here at home and those are around $1,500.00.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/comfortstore_1933_8236373

[Paul in NZ]

heated garage,stereo,beer,lots of time,and hopefully all required parts...:)

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

is the hardest part of many repairs.

this is one of those jobs that it's best to do the whole nine yards while you're down there, or you'll be back soon.


A/C
timing belt/chains
water pumps/cooling
brakes
suspension

Best done complete and be done with it

[BillionPa]

while you are doing the heater core and the coolant is drained, you might as well do any other minor cooling system maintenence, like old hoses, thermostat/pump, valve body, etc, if none of them have been done in a while.

and of course refill with blue.

[shogun]

??

the heater core is inside the cabin, and the other stuff you mention is in the engine room.

[Alexlind123]

??

the heater core is inside the cabin, and the other stuff you mention is in the engine room.

I was thinking the same thing...

[Jehu]

I never read anything indicating you needed to drain the coolant to change the heater core.If this is just a matter of disconnecting the three tubes maybe i could clamp the hoses out at the water valves or just be ready with something to plug each opening as i separate the tube end from the core if there would be the chance of a surge of remnant fluid.Those other items hopefully can hold off till summer.

[DaveVoorhis]

I never read anything indicating you needed to drain the coolant to change the heater core.If this is just a matter of disconnecting the three tubes maybe i could clamp the hoses out at the water valves
I've done that -- opened the rad filler cap to relieve any pressure and used hefty spring clamps to seal the hoses. It's not as bad a job as some folks make it sound -- there's a tedious amount of undoing little screws and whatnot, but it's not difficult. Take your time and don't force anything.

[Alexlind123]

Just remember, dont force anything, just use a larger hammer.

[Ferret]

Just remember, dont force anything, just use a larger hammer.

Or a bigger breaker bar as a lever ... :P

[bbig119]

I'd replace the heater core even if the o-rings look like the culprit. The job just isn't worth saving the $150 and risking having to do it again. You're already saving a ton of money by doing it yourself.

Take lots and lots of pictures, and label as much as you can. I found getting to the core rather straightforward and it only took a couple hours using the guide(s) posted around the forums.

I did drain the radiator, but I'm not sure it did any good in this case. Just be prepared with towels an a plastic bin/cup to catch what comes out.

Good luck.

[Jehu]

I'd replace the heater core even if the o-rings look like the culprit. The job just isn't worth saving the $150 and risking having to do it again. You're already saving a ton of money by doing it yourself.

Take lots and lots of pictures, and label as much as you can. I found getting to the core rather straightforward and it only took a couple hours using the guide(s) posted around the forums.

I did drain the radiator, but I'm not sure it did any good in this case. Just be prepared with towels an a plastic bin/cup to catch what comes out.

Good luck.

Thanks.If i plug the openings on the core and clamp off the tubes out at the water/heater valves before i tip the core to remove it should i expect to be safe from pouring coolant onto the dash interior and carpet?I am going to replace my heater valves anyway so maybe if i have that off i can suction out from that end any coolant in the tubes and upper end of the core. Did you happen to notice how long it took you from start to finish?

[bbig119]

I can't recall how much coolant came out, but there is a little drain hole there and most of it went into it instead of in the car. You should be ok-- I wouldn't worry about it. It took me A LOT longer than it should have because of that damned clip on the two side tubes of the core.

Here a rough break down of how long it took me:

somewhere about 3 hours to expose the old heater core. Doesn't take long to get it out.

It also didn't take long to get the new core in, just finicky because its a tight space and its easy to get paranoid worrying about damaging the new one. This is where things took forever. The pipes don't have alot of play and you don't have many places to put pressure on them to fit them to the core. The aluminum clip on the two pipes that fit to the side of the core locks them in. When locked the clip fits in a notch cut into a plastic tab just below where the pipes enter the core. If the pipes aren't fitted fully, the latch won't clear the plastic to fit into the notch. This is where I had the problem.

The pipes and latch fit fine with the new pipes and new and old core when out of the car. I just couldn't position it/leverage it the right way to lock it in when in the heater box. I thought it was maybe the old pipes, because the notch on the old core looked different than the new core, so I spent the better part of the next day removing the old pipes and then installing the new ones(don't do this unless you have to, which I doubt you will). Dealing with the pipes is just a whole can or worms you don't want to have to deal with. the bottom line, it didn't help my situation, I still couldn't get it latched with the new pipes. In fact the old pipes would latch perfectly fine to either the new or old core when outside the car-- very demoralizing. I finally said, F-it, and used a dremel to cut and angle into the notch(the latch was getting stuck on it. With the help from a buddy I was able to force the latch down the angled notch enough to get the screw/bolt hole aligned to lock the pipes in place.

Reassembly took about 2-3 hours. In all, the whole thing took 18 hours. 6 for taking it apart and then putting it together. 6-8 for dealing with pipes. The remainder fighting to get the pipes locked into the core.

The whole thing could be done in a long day if the pipes lock into place easily. Follow the writeup from roadfly, its a very good step by step. Some people have posted pictures, and I'd be happy to post mine if you want/need them.

Bryan

[Jehu]

I can't recall how much coolant came out, but there is a little drain hole there and most of it went into it instead of in the car. You should be ok-- I wouldn't worry about it. It took me A LOT longer than it should have because of that damned clip on the two side tubes of the core.

Here a rough break down of how long it took me:

somewhere about 3 hours to expose the old heater core. Doesn't take long to get it out.

It also didn't take long to get the new core in, just finicky because its a tight space and its easy to get paranoid worrying about damaging the new one. This is where things took forever. The pipes don't have alot of play and you don't have many places to put pressure on them to fit them to the core. The aluminum clip on the two pipes that fit to the side of the core locks them in. When locked the clip fits in a notch cut into a plastic tab just below where the pipes enter the core. If the pipes aren't fitted fully, the latch won't clear the plastic to fit into the notch. This is where I had the problem.

The pipes and latch fit fine with the new pipes and new and old core when out of the car. I just couldn't position it/leverage it the right way to lock it in when in the heater box. I thought it was maybe the old pipes, because the notch on the old core looked different than the new core, so I spent the better part of the next day removing the old pipes and then installing the new ones(don't do this unless you have to, which I doubt you will). Dealing with the pipes is just a whole can or worms you don't want to have to deal with. the bottom line, it didn't help my situation, I still couldn't get it latched with the new pipes. In fact the old pipes would latch perfectly fine to either the new or old core when outside the car-- very demoralizing. I finally said, F-it, and used a dremel to cut and angle into the notch(the latch was getting stuck on it. With the help from a buddy I was able to force the latch down the angled notch enough to get the screw/bolt hole aligned to lock the pipes in place.

Reassembly took about 2-3 hours. In all, the whole thing took 18 hours. 6 for taking it apart and then putting it together. 6-8 for dealing with pipes. The remainder fighting to get the pipes locked into the core.

The whole thing could be done in a long day if the pipes lock into place easily. Follow the writeup from roadfly, its a very good step by step. Some people have posted pictures, and I'd be happy to post mine if you want/need them.

Bryan

If you'd really be happy to post the pics, I'd like to see them. I have the detailed Roadfly step by step printed out but its always good to have a visual reference of what to look for as i go along.

[BillionPa]

yeah, the other stuff is in the engine compartment, but since you are draining coolant, might as well do anything that needs to be done and do it once.

[Jehu]

yeah, the other stuff is in the engine compartment, but since you are draining coolant, might as well do anything that needs to be done and do it once.

Why am i draining coolant? I actually can't drain it where I'm doing it.Its my sister's garage at her Apartment Complex.

[BillionPa]

generally the coolant is drained before you unplug the core, as its kind of down stream gravity wise, i would assume it would leak at least a gallon.

[Jehu]

generally the coolant is drained before you unplug the core, as its kind of down stream gravity wise, i would assume it would leak at least a gallon.
Well i have to replace the Water/Heater valves too so can't i clamp the hoses between that and the tubes which lead thru the firewall to the core when i have that off then only have to deal with what coolant remains in the interior ends of the tubs and the core itself?Even if i drained the Radiator i'd still be dealing with that residual wouldn't I?

[BillionPa]

the last time i clamped a hose in my 13 year old car it split in half.

you would still be dealing with residual coolant, but draining the radiator also drains out the cylinder head, which should relieve downward pressure on the hoses going to the heater core.

[Dash01]

Well i have to replace the Water/Heater valves too so can't i clamp the hoses between that and the tubes which lead thru the firewall to the core when i have that off then only have to deal with what coolant remains in the interior ends of the tubs and the core itself?Even if i drained the Radiator i'd still be dealing with that residual wouldn't I?


I just did my HC and did not drain the coolant or disconnect the 3 hoses at the firewall, either. Just used a rag to absorb any spillage, and when I disconnected the HC from the alu. tubes I used a shop vac to suck some of the coolant from the top of the HC so it would not spill when pulled out of its housing.

However, a small clean bucket under the radiator would have worked well to drain some of the coolant from the system, so its level would be below that of the HC (and/or heater valves if you are working with them, too). In other words, you do not need to drain all of the coolant. Then, you'd have the coolant to pour back into the system when finished.

[Jehu]

Good thought,that i could do.Thanks for the ideas.

[bbig119]

How old is your coolant-- its a good time to flush the system. If its new, you can easily reuse it. Draining the radiator isn't hard, and while I have no idea if it actually helps reduce spillage when you remove the heater core, I'd rather spend the a few minutes doing that than cleaning up coolant from the carpet.

[Jehu]

coolant is about 6 months old/almost 30k miles.My concern is that i only have my sister's garage at her apartment to do this job in.I am in NH and its the middle of bone breaking winter here.There is no drain in the garage and if i spilled even a drop of coolant on the floor i'd hear holy hell and possibly cost her her security deposit.I can't do anything there that would risk that so while i suppose i could buy a drain container and let some out and reuse it to bring the pressure down i was planning on just using a bunch of old towels.If i am not mistaken the heater/water valves are not below the expansion tank level and aside from the hoses to the HC Tubes they have the Aux water pump between them and the rest of the coolant system so if i am carefully disconnecting the heater/water valves,plugging the hose coming from the aux water pump with a rag then i could probably rent a shop vac and suction out the residual coolant from the firewall side of the HC Tubes before i disconnect them at the Core making whatever is left easily contained with rags and towels when i remove them at the HC.At least this is the extent of my planning.When i finally get the parts and look at it again i expect i won't have to actually drain any coolant since most reports lack any mention of that step.