View Full Version : Hooking Up Seatbelt Height Adjuster Cable/where?
Spasso
02-10-2007, 05:22 PM
I just finished the twisted seat back repair on my Dad's '94 E34 Touring and I can't seem to find exactly where to hook up the seatbelt height adjuster cable /clip. It's been unhooked for years
I know it hooks on the rear, outboard seat track area but I don't see anything down there that will accept the weird little spring clip configuration.
I've done ALL of the searches but the pictures I have found shows the cable unhooked, big help.
A picture of a cable HOOKED UP would be a great help.
Thanks, DJ
Martin in Bellevue
02-10-2007, 05:50 PM
From the backseat,look under & up to the outside of the seat. There is a metal loop. Raise the seat fully & forward to visualize where the cable exits the floor to hook to the seat.
Spasso
02-10-2007, 06:32 PM
I'll have to take another look under there. I saw no metal loop hanging down but saw two metal tabs (black) that stuck down and inboard of the seat track. I ended up using a shoulder bolt and two washers to hook it up.
When I get my own E34 back home I'll take a look at it.
Thanks for the help Martin.
DJ
BTW, I did the seat repair out of the car. I think a better quality job can be done that way. Measurements can be made more accurately and it's easier to tie all of the cables back up into the frame rails.
I decided to take a look at the opposite cable and it was about ready for "the fix" too so "two birds with one stone."
I strongly recommend doing both at the same time if not all the cables on the seat, as long as the seat is out of the car. It's only a matter of time before the headrests quit.
Spasso
02-11-2007, 06:18 PM
I delivered the Touring today and got my sedan back. Thought I would check to see where the the seatbelt height adjuster cable was hooked on the sedan.
As described before, I found two black metal tabs protruding inboard from the seat track at the aft end. One at the very back was vertical and the one just forward of it is canted at a 45 degree angle.
On the Touring I attached to the canted one because it was easier to get the bolt in.
On the sedan the cable is attached to the rear most tab with a pin and clip affair. The difference between the two tabs in distance to the take-up reel is about 3/8". I think I'll leave things as they are on the Touring. I just don't think it's going to make as much difference in the belt height and seeing as they haven't been hooked up in years the driver probably won't know either.
I would love to pick this one up. A very nice example of a Touring wagon. Tint the windows, lower 1.5" in the front and 1" in the back with a set of 8.5" x 17" Rondell #58's all around.
RSK540iA
02-13-2007, 02:16 PM
Hi DJ,
I see your baby also had the dreaded twisted seat problem. I've been asking myself, wouldn't it be easier just to have a new drive cable made up by a reputable cable-making company?
This link has plenty of pictures which should help you further: http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_33.htm
Regards,
Ralf
Spasso
02-14-2007, 12:29 AM
THERE IS REALLY NO REASON TO BUY A NEW CABLE. The inner drive portion "winds up" with age and shortens. Otherwise it is as sound as a new one. If the inner drive cable breaks you can go to the local auto parts store and buy a universal odometer repair kit, IT'S THE SAME EXACT PIECE. Just cut it to length.
I ran the adjuster until the seaback was even and the twist was gone. Then I took the seat out of the car. It only takes 10 minutes. Only two bolts and one plug.
Flip the seat over over upside down, loosen the mounting bolts on the drive motor (the second motor from the front), pop the cable from the drive motor, pull the inner drive cable out, heat the metal with a small torch for 5 seconds and pull it off the sheath with some needle nose pliers.
I cut 7/16" off the sheath with some side cutters and then melt the metal thimble back on, added some high strength adhesive and a light crimp to the thimble, regrease the drive cable and reinsert into the sheath. Reinsert into the motor, tighten up the mounting bolts for the motor and reinstall the seat in the car. I left more than recommended protrusion of inner drive cable so I doubt I will have problems with this again for the life of the car.
It took me a few hours to do this job the first time but now that I know how I could do it in less than an hour---AND IT'S FREE...
I regreased all exposed gears and cogs while the seat was out and now the seat works like new
I didn't have to take anything else off the seat to do this job, including the seat back.
I imagine if I had to do the head rests it might take additional dissasembly and time.
BMW charges about 500.00 for this repair.
In answer to your question about buying the cable from a reputable cable making company. Where would you find this company? Seat cables aren't exactly "off the shelf" parts and most are made by vendors for the car manufacturer, like in Germany. THAT"S why we repair them our selves.
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