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View Full Version : Need some assistance in determining what needs replacing in my front end.



rreimund
02-10-2007, 07:17 PM
Ok, I KNOW there's TONS of threads out there discussing the front end ad nauseum. What I haven't really seen though, is a discussion of what needs to be replaced first. Or rather what the typical wear is like on a front end, assuming it all started in the same condition.

I started thinking about this from the perspective that I wanted to just replace all of the stuff in the front end that could need replacing. That said, I'm not sure if it all needs replacing, and don't know enough about my car to check it and determine what needs replacing. I do have the 50-60mph shimmy, so I'm pretty certain my thrust arms with 750i bushings will be going in as a minimum. But overall this philosophy though it makes for a nice riding car, can get to be cost prohibitive.. Not to mention that I want to get the brakes done too.
What I have so far identified in the front end is:

Lemforder Right Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-098)
Lemforder Left Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-097)
Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-992)
Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-991)
Sway bar link Lemforder (31-35-1-134-582)
Idler arm (32-21-1-136-450)
Center track rod/tie rod (32-21-1-138-854)
Steering Link - Tie rod assemblies (32-21-1-135-666)

That all comes out to US$630 from the various sources.. but I don't know for example if the Idler arm is a common wear item... or if I'm better off leaving it alone and waiting for other more severe symptoms to point me in the direction of replacing it - same goes for the other parts there.

I'm also planning on doing the Guibo and center bearing:
Flex Disc - 6 Hole 135mm Part # : 26 11 1 209 168
Drive Shaft Center Bearing Part # : 26 12 1 226 723

Those are given as I have a lot of drivetrain slop when taking off, etc. Also looking to pickup Bruno's rear subframe delrin inserts. Just because they are so cheap and seem to provide a nice improvement.

Also, similarly I've got a laundry list of brake items to replace, but I don't know if some of these items are really necessary.
Here's my list:
Disc holddown bolt (34-11-1-123-072)
FRONT brake Rotors (34-11-1-160-936)
Brake pads Front (34-11-1-162-535)
ATE SuperBlue Brake Fluid - 1 Liter
REAR brake Rotors (34-21-1-162-305)
Brake pads Rear (34-21-1-162-536)
Brake sensor (34-35-1-179-820)
Brake Hose/Line; Rear Inner Left/Right;; 222mm FxF Connections
Brake Hose/Line; Rear Outer Left/Right; 200mm MxF Connection
Brake Hose/Line; Front
OR Teflon Coated Stainless Steel Braided Brake -6 line kit in place of three lines above.
Caliper Bushing Kit
Caliper Rebuild Kit - Front
Caliper Rebuild Kit - Rear

The pads/rotors are pretty straightforward although I'm torn between Jurid pads or Mintex low dust pads.. But I see bavauto has the caliper bushing kit that seems like it could help with brake feel - but not sure how likely it is that it needs it.. likewise with the caliper rebuild kits. Those aren't really discussed on bmwe34.net. Also, how to tell if my brake lines need replacing - are the stainless braided lines worth the extra money? Also, is the pad sensor a wear item? Or do you only need to buy a new one if it's missing or broken/damaged?


Overall Bruno has some good info on his site, but It's not as complete as I'd like.. (yes, I'm dense, and overwhelmed with all of the info thrown at me)

I've got some money coming back from the fed for my taxes - and I'd like to earmark some of it for the E34.. but the wife won't let me earmark more than $7-800 for parts. My initial though is that I should be able to do a lot with that, doing the work myself. But it's not quite enough to do the all out "replace it all" method, so I need to be deliberate and smart about what I do and don't do. Any thoughts you guys have, or maybe good resources I can turn to.. .let me know.

Thanks

dennyg
02-10-2007, 08:23 PM
I had my front end gone through and it made a big difference. I replaced struts bushings idler arm pitman arms sway bar links motor and trany mounts. One thing you could save money on is having thrust busings and lower control arm bushings pressed in. I didn't see then need to replace the metal. That can save you some bucks.

rreimund
02-16-2007, 01:06 PM
So just one response in almost a week?
:(

632 Regal
02-16-2007, 03:30 PM
lol...ad nausium? Why dont you get the thing on a lift and see if you need all that steering stuff? The thrust arms are a given though, I replaced the whole front end but the idler was okay so I left that one in there. Whatever you do dont get cheap parts unles your a big fan of redoing it all in a few months time.


So just one response in almost a week?
:(

markus
02-16-2007, 04:30 PM
seems liek the more new parts you put in they rectify the bad ones LOL. i need 2 front wheel bearings but the rest of my suspension has less than 4k on it. New shocks, springs, upper and lower control arms with bushings, idler arm, center link and tierods. car handles and drives very nice now. also new tranny and engine mounts.

rreimund
05-04-2007, 01:02 PM
Wow.. sorry to bring this one back from the dead.. I had never seen some of these responses.. I've actually not done any of this work yet since I barely drove the car. I'm not traveling a lot for work right now, sometimes flying out of town all week, other times driving down to Philly from NY for day or two at a time. So I'm at the point now that I need to get it fixed for my drives, and at the same time, I don't have the time to do it myself.

I've got a buddy who is going to do it at his shop, but he's really busy and just getting it in to him will take me 2-3 weeks. I would hate to have him open it all up and find it needs this part or that part and then have the car sit and wait while they come in. So I wanted to have everything he'd need purchased and in the trunk so all he had to do was install it all.

I guess my main question, specific to the front end now, since that's what I'm looking to get done first. Are there any of the parts I list below NOT wear items. In other words, are there some parts there that unless your car has been hit, there's never really a need to replace them? If not, and if all of those items can at some point wear to the point of needing replacing - then I'll just go ahead and replace it all. The car has 136k miles or so, so I figure it's going to wear, then it should be nearly about time to replace them. (Yes, I'm assuming the previous owner didn't)
these items are:

Lemforder Right Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-098)
Lemforder Left Thrust arm + 750i bushing pressed (31-12-1-141-097)
Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-992)
Lemforder Control arm (Lower arm) (31-12-1-139-991)
Sway bar link Lemforder (31-35-1-134-582)
Idler arm (32-21-1-136-450)
Center track rod/tie rod (32-21-1-138-854)
Steering Link - Tie rod assemblies (32-21-1-135-666)

Anything I missed? Is there any hardware required to do the work (like bolts/nuts or whatever that can't be reused? - assuming you don't break anything)


Thanks, (And sorry for my long ass posts..)
- Rick



PS. Jeff: I don't have a lift and wouldn't know if it needed to be replaced even if I did.. Only reason I know the thrust arms are shot is 'cause the 55mph shimmy is pretty obvious. :-D

Qube
05-04-2007, 01:29 PM
Don't forget to throw these by BMA and see what they can do in price ;)

rreimund
05-04-2007, 02:06 PM
I had priced them out on their site, and then at autohausaz.com

Autohaus was way cheaper - and free shipping to boot.. But definitely worth a shot once I figure out what all I'll need to order up.

-Rick

Blitzkrieg Bob
05-04-2007, 02:17 PM
spece30

and if you call BMA and compare prices they usually match or beat the prices and shipping.

Make sure Autohauz is sending lemforder stuff, when I did my fornt end in February they didn't have all the stuff, so I went with BMA, they even matched tirerack's prices on a set of Eibach springs.

Qube
05-04-2007, 03:51 PM
+1. Email them or give them a call for the 'bimmer.info' price. They take care of you.