Freaking alternator (long PLEASE HELP)

[Phatty5BMW]

Well on the way to work this morning 5 a.m. on the dot, I am on the side of the interstate with a dead alternator (i think). First the dash lights went from dim to regular, then anti-lock light came on, then cel, then the radio started turning on and off.
I thought I may have thrown a belt, so I stopped and tried to restart and battery is deader than a door nail. So with -20 degree weather I sit in the car for 40 minutes awaiting the ol' lady to arrive. Finally i get picked up after freezing my ass of and spilling my cappucino all over my pass. seat and can't find it because my lights dont work and its dark as hell out.....

I get picked up 5 miles from home my intrepid blew something maybe a hose but the car started overheating. So I stopped let it cool and limped home. My 2 cars, broke down within 30 minutes and its 6:15am......

I got my car trailered home and now the bottom bolt on the alternator is fuked. I got the nut off the back of it but the radiator facing bolt is stuck for the life of it. My dads metwrench set is the only wrench I could find (seems like all the 13mm are disapeared) and btw metwrench is complete JUNK. Anyway one thing leads to another and the damn front bolt is stuck. Can't tap it out from the back side and its not like there is a bunch of room beings is right next to the motor mount bracket.

The bolt will not turn, budge, move do anything at all. I dont know what I should do. (I have a tendency to break things very easy)

I took the voltage regulator off and the brushes are way longer than 1/4 inch so I am not sure if it is that or the alt. its self.
The shaft spins freely on the alt. and does not wiggle around.

ANY help is greatly appreciated as I am completely screwed with no vehicle and work is 45 miles one way. help me!!!

THANKS ALOT
Pat

[Phatty5BMW]

I forgot to mention the alternator looks pretty new... Says Bosch Remanufactured right on it... And to top it all the battery light never even half way lit up...

[632 Regal]

did you check the connections by the battery/fusable liinks/grounds?

Not sure what to tell you on the stupid bolt. Take the motor mount off to get some more room?

[John B.]

How old is the battery? This weather is killing marginal batteries left & right.

[Phatty5BMW]

Nope battery is all good for sure. Im going to double check the connections right now and see if I can get that bolt out or w/e I have to do. Then come home and eat some pizza and drink some more beer. :)

[Phatty5BMW]

Connections are fine on the battery and elsewhere. Still no luck on that Fing bolt. I am starting to get a little worried about what im going to do.

Do you know if the motor mount swivels over 90 degrees? I have never had to touch them therefor im not sure, but if it was out of the way I think I could have enough room to get in there. I'm gettin pissed.....

[632 Regal]

jack the motor up a little and loosen the motor mount bolts and move it away. Have you tried vice grips to get a bite on that damn bolt? I doubt if you cut the head off the bolt you would be able to slide the alternater forward enough to pop it off, but you would probably be able to get it out with vice grips.

[Phatty5BMW]

I tried the biggest pair of vise grips I got. I just don't see how the bolt is seized up in there. If I try to move the alternator I can barely move it on its pivot but the bottom bolt just wont move, no wiggling, no nothing. I just replaced all the belts mid-summer last year and had no problems...

[Phatty5BMW]

Update: Got the POS alternator off. Took off the whole mounting bracket, but the bracket and alternator in the vise and used a punch to beat the bolt out. ****in ******** but anyway, im going to get this thing tested tomarrow.

I also cracked the bushing that the bolt resides in the mounting bracket. Screw it or buy a whole new bracket? It couldn't hurt beings I can't adjust alt or ps belt due to p.o. breaking teeth. Now the question is wtf to do?

I will update tomarrow as I get this thing tested. Then its on to the intrepid, rabbit truck then the e28 thermostat.. hopefully I get those 2 running tomarrow because my 535 sure is hell aint going to get fixed.....

Pat

[Phatty5BMW]

Update: The voltage regulator looks fine on the alternator. I went to Carquest and another local shop and nobody has the right wire leads to test this alternator. I am going to call up autozone but I will most likely have the same luck. At this point I might just have to buy a new one.

Do you guys know if I can get a service history by calling a bmw dealer if the car was serviced there by the vin # or something? Its a bosch reman and the thing looks new, if they have a warranty I will ateast try to save a few hundred bucks.

Any input appreciated....

Pat

[Phatty5BMW]

I went to autozone, of course i talked to a guy on the phone that was there for 2 weeks. Anyway they couldn't do it, so I figured if im 25 miles from home better not go home empty handed.

I went to Advanced Auto and they tested it, put out 11 Volts but the diode light came on the machine. We talked about it, sounds like the voltage regulator.

Do you guys think it is a waste to buy a new voltage regulator or should I just buy a whole new alt.?

Thanks!
Pat

[colo525i]

If the bearings and place where the brushes contact are still good, i can't see why you'd need to buy the whole thing. Had the same thing happen on an old benz, $15 v regulator fixed the problem and has worked for 5 years since.

[632 Regal]

I am not a big fan of remanufactured crap at all. Over the years many many re-man products are a total crap shoot. If you spend the cash for a new one it should outlast the car. Another Idea would be to find a known good used one but thats also a crapshoot.

[Phatty5BMW]

Yes I agree re-man is junk I think. I got ahold of the bmw dealers in chicago and finally found the one which it was serviced and purchased at. Although they said that after 4 years, the paper and computer records are destroyed...
He could see 2 warranty fixes but could only see the codes and couldn't see what was done.

As far as the alternator goes, I guess I will try the new regulator. If that doesn't work, Ill just buy a new one. I also need to find me a new mounting bracket... teeth are completely shot and I really don't want the hassle of doing this all next time :D

Pat

[Dash01]

Aftermarket voltage regulator is ~$12-14 at car parts stores. If only the brushes, that would be ~$3 and 5 mins. with a soldering iron.

Some BMW 535i cars (like mine) have the high output alternator. I took mine to an alternator shop and had the contact rings re-lathed for $10, and got a new diode board for $36.

Got new bearings at a Case farm implement dealer for several bux each, which was a lot less than the $26 quoted by the local car parts store for exactly the same bearing.

Did my own dis- and re- assembly. Penetrating oil and overnight in the freezer helped a lot with removing the large bearing, a press fit.

So, essentially I have a new alternator, for total cost of <$60 and some effort.

[Phatty5BMW]

The cheapest regulator I can find for the 535 is 36 bucks from bma. Advanced autoparts wanted 98bucks lol...

[grave77]

the only thing you have to double check is the regulator current. installing a wrong one will have it blown and then your battery will be drained when the car is off. I guess the current is 120A for the 535. one thing you have to make sure is to clean the plugs before you assemble the alternator. a bad connection can make the alternator play games, such as starting to charge when u get the engine to 3K RPM or it wont. so be aware.