removing the m30b35 head tommorow for a headgasket change [Archive]

BigKriss

02-19-2007, 11:01 AM

Robin-535im

02-19-2007, 12:11 PM

I've got a metal rule, new head bolts and new head gasket set. I don't want to machine the cylinder head flat as it was done around 40,000kms ago, (don't want to spend the money) but i will if it's warped, becasue it has over heated quite a few times (10+ times in the last 2 years). i'm losing coolant and I don't know where from. I've replaced the fan clutch and thermostat with no luck. a recent blown headgasket check and a leak in the coolant system at 1 bar did not reveal anything.

any comments appreciated before i do this job. robin535's recent thread on the job was informative so was George M's comments in the same thread.

cheers!
I'm by no means an expert but here are the mistakes I recently made... :)

1) Try to locate the cam gear with respect to the head before you loosen the timing chain, making sure of course that the O/T mark on the big pulley and the line on the block are lined up. I thought I could just mark which chain link went with which tooth, but then the chain slipped off the lower gear when I was rotating the bottom end to and fro to get the pistons to the top for cleaning. Luckily the cam was still in the same position so I could go back and make alignment marks from the cam to the head.

2) After you drain the coolant from the radiator, actually do what Bentley's says and drain it from the block too. I thought the one would be good enough, but when you break the seal all the coolant in the head pours into your cylinders and oil passages, not to mention across the garage floor and out onto the driveway.

3) Before you do anything in the engine, pull it up on ramps and take off the metal heat shields that block access to the header bolts. Take the 4, 12mm (deep socket) copper nuts off the down pipes... do a 1/4 turn tighter first to break the seal then back them off. Then take the car off the ramps so you can get to the head without a step stool. The step in Bentley's where it says to disconnect the exhaust is after the engine is already out of commission, so I couldn't get easy access to the copper exhaust nuts and had to pull them from above, not an easy thing to do!

Otherwise the steps in the manual were pretty much all there was to it. I left the intake on and took the exhaust off, but still needed to separate the downpipes from the headers to get the head to come off with ease. And you read the whole saga about how to lift the head. Not real heavy but awkward, and not much leverage leaning over a fender.

HTH

- Robin

Martin in Bellevue

02-19-2007, 02:08 PM

You intend to check the head for plane with a 'metal rule'?

Why not replace all the coolant lines & flush the system to determine the health of the coolant system before removing the head? Is there a board member nearby who's done a head gasket job on an m30?

BigKriss

02-20-2007, 01:33 AM

Yes, i'll check it for straightness with a metal rule. is that okay? or not accurate enough?

i actually didn't touch the head today, i replaced the main coolant hoses and added some new coolant and flushed the radiator. the radiator is fine and looks new. In the last month i've changed the thermostat, fan clutch, almost all coolant lines and if it plays up again, then i'm going to change to the headgasket. I've read most of the posts on here about doing the headgasket. I'm worried about not being able to lift it out with my dad, i'm pretty weak guys. even the radiator was a slight struggle. to get out and put back in.

There are no board members that can help me with the job.

Robin, thanks for your comments also.

You intend to check the head for plane with a 'metal rule'?

Why not replace all the coolant lines & flush the system to determine the health of the coolant system before removing the head? Is there a board member nearby who's done a head gasket job on an m30?

BigKriss

02-20-2007, 01:35 AM

One other thing, when i replaced the heater pump and heater valves, over 1 year ago now i was smelling coolant inside the cabin, should i be worried that the heater core is ****ed also? i can't see and seepage on the garage floor, there are no leaks.

The Bigfella

02-20-2007, 01:39 AM

I pulled the M5 engine apart at a workshop owned by a couple of mates who are diesel mechanics. The straightedge that they use is about 5mm thick. They scoffed at me when I said I would check another head with a steel rule - apparently if they bend, you have no accuracy.

Good luck with the rebuild - I'm waiting on my M5 bits from BMA. Then I'll think about building the second engine at some stage.

BigKriss

02-20-2007, 01:43 AM

thanks, my 2ft one bends.

I pulled the M5 engine apart at a workshop owned by a couple of mates who are diesel mechanics. The straightedge that they use is about 5mm thick. They scoffed at me when I said I would check another head with a steel rule - apparently if they bend, you have no accuracy.

Good luck with the rebuild - I'm waiting on my M5 bits from BMA. Then I'll think about building the second engine at some stage.

The Bigfella

02-20-2007, 02:31 AM

I've got a metre steel rule here (which bends) but I might try it out and see how it compares.

genphreak

02-20-2007, 05:16 AM

Kriss, are you sure its not a leak elsewhere? Steam can escape unnoticed and gradually take the coolant down- over 1000km a litre or two is nothing.

I'll help you but am flat out at present, working weekends and days- I just can't get a break immediately. I may get a break sometime soon- but it'd only be on a weekend. I also know the right place to get the head machined/valve guides/seats done if it needs it. It won't be a problem getting it off as Robin says, you and I can do it for sure (if we have to), remember the wooden brace idea. Best to pop the bonnet off and get in there being really careful with the timing chain and a scribe. I will defiantely come by to help you lift it if you can get her ready. We could check it out, and if it needs to goto the shop I can drop it there on the way home. I'll pick it up and come back and help you fit it, but the car won't be in commissison until we're done and its finsihed so that will be a minimum of 2 weeks with me unable to come and help you all the way through... sorry bud. Can you stage the job a little?

BigKriss

02-20-2007, 06:00 AM

I will see how the car holds up Nick, if it starts to overheat again, then I will start on it the following day.

The Bigfella

02-20-2007, 03:29 PM

It won't be a problem getting it off

It may be if they used studs last time round instead of head bolts. Check the block for cracks - a common problem with them if people take the head off and then don't blow the oil out of the bolt holes - they then hydaulic and crack the block.

TC535i

02-20-2007, 04:48 PM

Sometimes you can smell coolant from a leak you don't notice. Thought I had a bad heater core because I would get that sweet smell on occasion... turned out my radiator was leaking from the side seal and I didn't notice it till it got worse.

Big relief, you can imagine... Radiator is a lot easier to change out than a heater core. ;)

Ausmpower

02-23-2007, 07:49 AM

Hi Kris,

You could possibly have a crack inside one of the valve pockets (inlet or exhaust ports) down behind a valve, it would leak when hot but not when cold..... Repeated over heats will do that (my E12 M535 went that way...).

Good luck Mate!

BigKriss

02-23-2007, 08:21 AM

genphreak

02-23-2007, 02:02 PM

I don't know what's going on. I've had no problems in the last few days since I've changed the coolant lines. they old ones all looked okay but nothing (no overheating) has happened since. I've just been doing short runs less then 25mins and 15kms though.Another attack of the deadly pin-hole-itis Kris? Pin holes in hoses and rough connections can do weird things.... its great news that your head is okay- your motor should be pretty solid- the car has been well looked after after all!

Ross

02-23-2007, 09:32 PM

You should use a machinists straight edge to check for warpage. A couple thou maybe 4 or 5 is ok. If it's high in the center the staight edge will rock if low you will see light, use a feeler gauge to check the amount.
Check side to side and lengthwise in several places.

BigKriss

03-27-2007, 09:20 PM

I put in 2.5 hours today. Where is the drain plug for the block? I've never done it before. I think I have to access it underneath the car, but I couldn't find it.

work so far;
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3752/pict0164mediumgp0.jpg

Does the metal thing that attaches to the rotor have to be removed?
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/9435/pict0163mediumty6.jpg
This is what I'm not sure about.......

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/8965/pict0167mediumda4.jpg
On front jack stands

I'll probably need another 4-5 hours before it's off. I'm going to replace the centre bearing after I remove the exhaust also.

rob101

03-27-2007, 09:28 PM

the drain plug is under the 2nd rear most cylinder. and you'll need to take out the heat shields if its anything like the m50. you'll need a stumpy spanner also.

BigKriss

03-29-2007, 12:42 AM

About 8 more hours so far;
I had trouble with the downpipe bolts after the exhaust manifold but they eventually came off. I removed the exhaust and the drive shaft. The center bearing was broken.

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/4554/driveshaftmediumiw1.jpg

One of the exhaust manifold won't come off. Everything is unbolted. I tried to wedge a fairly think screwdriver in there to no avail. Any help guys?

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/5919/header1mediumde8.jpg

bill g

03-29-2007, 02:46 AM

Stuck exhaust manifold - try to jar it loose - use a length of wood against the manifold. Hit the wood with a hammer, try a few places. Don't hit the manifold with the hammer.

Bill G Melb Aus

BigKriss

03-31-2007, 12:59 AM

Okay I removed the exhaust manifold, there was still a nut on there. I don't know how I missed it. Almost everything is separated now.

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6915/pict0177mediumsz5.jpg

Does the wiring harness need to be separated also. I don't think the bently manual makes a mention of it. I've circled it in yellow.

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/9465/pict0169mediumaj6.jpg

Nick's coming over tomorrow to help me remove the head.

Robin-535im

03-31-2007, 01:43 AM

Does the wiring harness need to be separated also. I don't think the bently manual makes a mention of it. I've circled it in yellow.

Yes, if you're leaving the intake bolted on to the head. If you unbolt the intake I think you can leave the harness where it is. There are some wires that drop down and bolt to the starter, and a few sensor wires that go to the oil pressure and temperature sensors, and of course the fuel injectors.

It's not too bad to take it off, just remember to get all the wires that hang down underneath the intake before you pull on it, it should just lift out after it's all disconnected and the two plated hex bolts are undone from the center of the channel.

BigKriss

03-31-2007, 02:27 AM

Thanks Robin, the intake manifold is staying on and I know what to do now.

Yes, if you're leaving the intake bolted on to the head. If you unbolt the intake I think you can leave the harness where it is. There are some wires that drop down and bolt to the starter, and a few sensor wires that go to the oil pressure and temperature sensors, and of course the fuel injectors.

It's not too bad to take it off, just remember to get all the wires that hang down underneath the intake before you pull on it, it should just lift out after it's all disconnected and the two plated hex bolts are undone from the center of the channel.

BigKriss

03-31-2007, 09:12 PM

Okay, so the cylinder head was pulled off today.

We couldn't see any cracks in the head. I circled two problem areas Nick said where the coolant could of been leaking.

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/3075/pict0192mediumdm1.jpg

No visible leaks in the gasket either.

http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/4981/pict0184mediumwe6.jpg

632 Regal

04-02-2007, 02:11 AM

looks like some other bad spots starting in other areas too. You should probably have the head tested for cracks just incase.

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/3075/pict0192mediumdm1.jpg

genphreak

04-02-2007, 07:14 AM

I was telling Kriss it'd buff right out but he didn't believe me... actually the pics look worse than it looks in person, but it may not be flat so it needs to be looked at.

Kristian, be sure to mark the cam position and note which valves are open and by how much- just so you can be sure where to put it when she comes back- one should expect they will get it wrong and give it back to you 180 degrees out or something...

Here is the guy I was talking about btw; Balmain Engineering Pty Ltd
154 Victoria Rd Rozelle NSW 2039, just down from the Balmain Leagues Club

Ferret

04-02-2007, 08:19 AM

Aiee! This brings back some memories of my first 5!

That head is amazingly clean on the inside.

The Bigfella

04-03-2007, 06:21 AM

Ahhh - lots of fun. I hope to crank up the M5 tomorrow after a full engine rebuild. Had a win today - borrowed my son's skateboard to refit the exhaust - which weighs 50kg. Definitely the way to go.

Tomorrow is the oil filter housing, wiring harness, rebuild the plenum (that could be interesting) and the front end coolant bits. Connect the wires and crank.... Note to self - don't forget to put oil in it.

My measuring / machining work was done by Warren at Norwest Engines in Anella Ave, Castle Hill. He's good. I did the build with a mate who was originally trained as a mechanic by the local Rolls Royce agent (he hates Rollers).

Good luck with yours

Ian

BigKriss

04-03-2007, 07:41 AM

Replacing some of the fuel hoses on the intake manifold. I just did part 11,

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD12&mospid=47382&btnr=13_0232&hg=13&fg=15

this is Mercedes Benz fuel hose that I got from BMA from Bill R recommendations. I tried to find the old thread talking about it, but on a quick search I couldn't.

I'm assuming parts 10 and 12 use the same hose, it's quite hard on the car I mean the hose is hard when touching it. Is this right? Hose 14, is that the same as part 11 also? If so I will replace all of them provided from BMA.

In summary, are parts 10, 11, 14 and 15 all the same hose?

And one more question, do any of the 535i guys know what this part's number is;

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/9216/pict0199mediumqh0.jpg

BigKriss

04-03-2007, 08:19 AM

Also how do I prepare the block. I was going to get the gasket debris off with a razor, will this be good enough?

Ferret

04-03-2007, 10:50 AM

When I did it, a razor got most of the crap off...

I then used very fine abrasive paper to bring the mating surfaces back up to a matte shine.

632 Regal

04-03-2007, 09:54 PM

should work unless the gasket is very hard and stuck, then I would use a sharp chisel working it very carefully. When done clean the surface well with some harsh chemical to remove any other residual gasket and oil.

MAKE SURE THE BOLT HOLES ARE SPARKLY CLEAN AND NO OIL OR ANTIFREEZE!!!

Also how do I prepare the block. I was going to get the gasket debris off with a razor, will this be good enough?

BigKriss

04-03-2007, 10:20 PM

Thanks Jeff, I've already put a rag in the bolt holes to remove most of the oil. I will then blow some compressed air in there to clean them again and then get a tap and die set on the bolt holes for the block and head. What harsh chemical do you suggest? I've sprayed some wd-40 onto the cylinder bores also to prevent rust occurring.

Jeff N.

04-04-2007, 12:06 AM

Clean the bolt holes out with some long cotton swabs. Rags are no good and the goop may be too thick for compressed air. You are on the right path with the tap to chase out the threads...

BigKriss

04-04-2007, 08:48 AM

Thankyou for everyone's comments so far. The head is still at the machine shop. This is how the timing chain was stuck together with coat hanger wire.
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/1921/pict0207mediumuz9.jpg

I have two more questions.

1. What product do I use to ensure the gaskets stick onto the mating surface. I assume I don't you use anything for the headgasket but I bought a Reinz headgasket kit and such gaskets such as the intake manifold gasket, what do I use to ensure that they stick?

2. There was a little bit of material missing from the block, I assume coolant was disappearing from here. Will this matter?
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4849/pict0202mediumip3.jpg

Ferret

04-04-2007, 08:54 AM

Looks like you've got a tiny little hairline crack starting up...

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a190/Ferret101/pict0202mediumip3.jpg

any chance you can get a sharper photo of just that area?

Bill R.

04-04-2007, 12:40 PM

Kris, back on the block prep. I would clean out all the threaded holes as Jeff N. suggested with long q tips or swabs and a tap and i would carefully use a gasket scraper or putty knife on the block to remove all the old material, then take a mill smooth, not a flat bastard file but a mill smooth file and lay it absolutely flat on top of the block and push it lightly across the block. It will highlight any areas sticking up such as around all the bolt holes.

The threads pull up around bolt holes and leave a slightly raised area. You want to use your mill smooth file to very carefully dress those down and any other high spots or nicks in the surface. That area that is eroded away doesn't look good , I would clean all that up with scraper and file and then use some JB weld to repair the damaged area, let it set up and use your mill smooth file to flatten it back out. After cleaning the head bolts lightly oil the threads and the shoulder of the bolts before installing the head. Lightly.
For gasket sealer, i'm not certain what brands and types are available in Aus. but for the intake gaskets anything like permatex high tack should work fine, or hylomar but its not quite as sticky as hightack

Thankyou for everyone's comments so far. The head is still at the machine shop. This is how the timing chain was stuck together with coat hanger wire.
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/1921/pict0207mediumuz9.jpg

I have two more questions.

1. What product do I use to ensure the gaskets stick onto the mating surface. I assume I don't you use anything for the headgasket but I bought a Reinz headgasket kit and such gaskets such as the intake manifold gasket, what do I use to ensure that they stick?

2. There was a little bit of material missing from the block, I assume coolant was disappearing from here. Will this matter?
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4849/pict0202mediumip3.jpg

BigKriss

04-05-2007, 12:45 AM

Thanks for your comments Bill. The shop were I normally take the car to suggested not to use a smooth file to prep the block at all. They said they never do it and have never done it before. They also said file shavings and such would get into the cylinder bores. I note you say to push it lightly across the surface though and I will do what you tell me to. They would not lend me the smooth file because of this either, but I did borrow the tap and die from them. smooth files are not that easy to get so far, bastard files are common but not the smooth ones.

For gasket sealer I bought three types;

hyolmar for the head and valve cover and intake manifold gaskets;
ultra blue for the timing chain gasket
maniseal for the exhaust manifold gaskets

Its going to take at least one more week now since shops are closed for the next four days over the easter break.

Kris, back on the block prep. I would clean out all the threaded holes as Jeff N. suggested with long q tips or swabs and a tap and i would carefully use a gasket scraper or putty knife on the block to remove all the old material, then take a mill smooth, not a flat bastard file but a mill smooth file and lay it absolutely flat on top of the block and push it lightly across the block. It will highlight any areas sticking up such as around all the bolt holes.

The threads pull up around bolt holes and leave a slightly raised area. You want to use your mill smooth file to very carefully dress those down and any other high spots or nicks in the surface. That area that is eroded away doesn't look good , I would clean all that up with scraper and file and then use some JB weld to repair the damaged area, let it set up and use your mill smooth file to flatten it back out. After cleaning the head bolts lightly oil the threads and the shoulder of the bolts before installing the head. Lightly.
For gasket sealer, i'm not certain what brands and types are available in Aus. but for the intake gaskets anything like permatex high tack should work fine, or hylomar but its not quite as sticky as hightack

Zeuk in Oz

04-05-2007, 02:03 AM

Kriss,
When I did my head gasket, much to the horror of every mechanic I spoke to about it, I cleaned the carbon off the tops of the pistons.
I was careful not to get any into the block but made sure by putting vaseline inside the top of each cylinder as I worked on it, which caught anything that I missed, before it had a chance to get down next to the pistons.
I then collected it by wiping off the vaseline.
I can't remember who recommended it, but it was someone on this forum.
All the professional mechanics said I would be doing it all again after 5,000 km, but so far, touch wood, everything seems OK after 30,000 km.
Keep up the good work ! ;)

I used a thinner as a cleaning solvent on the head before fitting the new gasket.

I also found cotton buds great for cleaning out the bolt holes.:)

BigKriss

04-05-2007, 02:22 AM

Thankyou Bo. I'm not touching the tops of the pistons either. I was told not to touch it because I would be blowing smoke? - can't remember if this was the exact reason - and was recommended not to touch them. I have two different thickness of sandpaper to prepare the block also. Yes I will use cotton buds and I have sweker sticks also.

Kriss,
When I did my head gasket, much to the horror of every mechanic I spoke to about it, I cleaned the carbon off the tops of the pistons.
I was careful not to get any into the block but made sure by putting vaseline inside the top of each cylinder as I worked on it, which caught anything that I missed, before it had a chance to get down next to the pistons.
I then collected it by wiping off the vaseline.
I can't remember who recommended it, but it was someone on this forum.
All the professional mechanics said I would be doing it all again after 5,000 km, but so far, touch wood, everything seems OK after 30,000 km.
Keep up the good work ! ;)

I used a thinner as a cleaning solvent on the head before fitting the new gasket.

I also found cotton buds great for cleaning out the bolt holes.:)

genphreak

04-05-2007, 09:20 AM

We need to take a look at that block Chris, I reckon that 'hairline' might be a hairline crack, no matter what, there is so little material between the cooling water jacket and the cylinder at that lower position one cannot just put the new gasket on. JBWeld will be necessary once all the material in that area is fresh and clean- I'd clean down into the jacket
a bit and put some JB weld in there too, but you have to get it really clean- a good few swab downs wiith some pure alcohol after you are done with the initial prep. Makes me want to pull mine apart again to attend to those areas, jic it is at risk in any similar way. Good luck buddy- and have a great Easter! :) Nick

Bill R.

04-05-2007, 09:40 AM

Kris, I won't say what i really think of your shop.. You typically mask off the bores and various passages with masking tape and rags before filing or gasket scraping the block. A mill smooth file is finer cutting than a smooth file or a bastard file. As i said before you lay the file flat on top of the block and push it lightly across the block,it will highlight or make the areas shiny that stick up, especially around bolt holes that have been lifted. The only time that shavings get into the block is if the people doing the work are incompetent ... Somewhere i have some pics that i posted on here or roadfly years ago ,if i can find them i'll post them. Remember mill smooth not just smooth.

Thanks for your comments Bill. The shop were I normally take the car to suggested not to use a smooth file to prep the block at all. They said they never do it and have never done it before. They also said file shavings and such would get into the cylinder bores. I note you say to push it lightly across the surface though and I will do what you tell me to. They would not lend me the smooth file because of this either, but I did borrow the tap and die from them. smooth files are not that easy to get so far, bastard files are common but not the smooth ones.

For gasket sealer I bought three types;
hyolmar for the head and val
ve cover and intake manifold gaskets;
ultra blue for the timing chain gasket
maniseal for the exhaust manifold gaskets
Its going to take at least one more week now since shops are closed for the next four days over the easter break.

BigKriss

04-05-2007, 08:41 PM

Thanks to Bill and others for your comments;

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/9216/pict0199mediumqh0.jpg
I assuming this tube is the "injection tube" - part 1. (http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=13_0232&hg=13&fg=15) Is this right?

Ferrett, here is another picture of the block. I know it's not that clear.
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/6342/pict0211mediumkc2.jpg

BigKriss

04-05-2007, 09:05 PM

Also one more thing guys can you tell me where these go; They came from the headgasket kit;

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/949/pict0213mediumez5.jpg

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/694/pict0215mediumyu1.jpg

genphreak

04-05-2007, 09:28 PM

They are valve guides and injector o-rings. Yay!! I'll be getting some injector kits soon, I'll get some extra filters for you too. Those will seal your present ones up I guess. Nice gasket kit- o-rings didn't come with mine!

Kriss, rememeber what I said about the machinist knowing bimmer heads, they need more than the right tools to do a good job... did you verify these guys are good with more than just Ford and GM heads? There aren't many around... <fingers crossed>

Re the block 'crack' To get the right opinions on it, try taking a pic .3m, .4m and .5m away from the spot respectively, in good light. Cameras cannot focus more than so close to a subject, that last one was too close.

:) Nick

dmenheere

04-06-2007, 07:56 AM

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/9216/pict0199mediumqh0.jpg

I think the hose you are looking at is the crank case ventilation hose ... item #15 in the link below.

Its been a couple of years since I had the head off my e28 535 but the hose has nothing to do with the fuel injection system.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=13_0192&hg=13&fg=15

hth,

Dave Menheere

Jeff N.

04-06-2007, 09:46 AM

Is this due to coolant issues such as infrequent changes, incorrect antifreeze, and similar? Or, this due to something else.

Not suggesting Kris has done anything wrong; just looking to understand what might be the cause of this.

Bill R.

04-06-2007, 10:20 AM

Kris that hose is number 10 in this pic. It goes to the idle air control valve

Thanks to Bill and others for your comments;

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/9216/pict0199mediumqh0.jpg
I assuming this tube is the "injection tube" - part 1. (http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=13_0232&hg=13&fg=15) Is this right?

Ferrett, here is another picture of the block. I know it's not that clear.

535ise

04-07-2007, 08:45 AM

Re the bits you got with the H/G set aside from what already been said i think i can see oil filter housing O-ring, various crush/sealing metal washers for thing like oil filter housing cap bolt, oil spray bar, oil and block drain plugs, timing chain tensioner plug. There might also be one for end of the cam(the metal part that the rotor screws onto).

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/8951/washerti2.jpg

You just need to size them up against the old ones to figure them out.

If you have an injector o-ring left over then you can use it to replace the FPR o-ring as they are the same.

....and give your self a pat on the back if you have no parts left over after you have finished :)

HTH

BigKriss

04-07-2007, 08:51 AM

Thankyou :)

Re the bits you got with the H/G set aside from what already been said i think i can see oil filter housing O-ring, various crush/sealing metal washers for thing like oil filter housing cap bolt, oil spray bar, oil and block drain plugs, timing chain tensioner plug. There might also be one for end of the cam(the metal part that the rotor screws onto).

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/8951/washerti2.jpg

You just need to size them up against the old ones to figure them out.

If you have an injector o-ring left over then you can use it to replace the FPR o-ring as they are the same.

....and give your self a pat on the back if you have no parts left over after you have finished :)

HTH

535ise

04-07-2007, 08:54 AM

Just remembered another one, one of the bolts on the back of the head has a sealing washer.

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/3214/washer1uq8.jpg

erm and......

oil sensor
temp sensor x 2

....see what i mean about parts left over ! :D

BigKriss

04-07-2007, 09:41 AM

I think I overheated it too many times. There's about four places on the block that need attention with JB Weld. I will post pictures later before I start the work. I bought some WB Weld from ebay.com.au for aud$38 delivered and am bidding on ebay for some Nicholson 10" Mill smooth files. I've got the head back, it was aud$340, to get it tested for cracks and planed flat. I don't know how much they took off, but it seems not much. I've put the driveshaft back with a new center bearing (thanks Nick) and cleaned and tapped all the bolt holes.

Is this due to coolant issues such as infrequent changes, incorrect antifreeze, and similar? Or, this due to something else.

Not suggesting Kris has done anything wrong; just looking to understand what might be the cause of this.

genphreak

04-07-2007, 05:52 PM

I've put the driveshaft back with a new center bearing (thanks Nick) and cleaned and tapped all the bolt holes.Where are the pictures Kriss?? Hey that's great news Kriss... did they repalce the valve guides too, not that they needed it of course... I bet it looks pretty encouraging all cleaned up- hope that 'Bay stuff comes in soon eh?

PS, when you get to working on the block you might want to setup some decent lights so you can really see the finish on the block... I've got some but halogens if you need. :) Nick

BigKriss

04-11-2007, 01:27 AM

Hi guys, still waiting for some parts to arrive. Should I replace the waterpump while i'm there, if so what is the best brand to purchase.

Do you guys know what part number this is?

http://img464.imageshack.us/img464/8541/hose2lz5.jpg

BigKriss

04-13-2007, 04:11 AM

ryan roopnarine

04-13-2007, 10:03 AM

are you going to clean those fuel injectors while everything is apart?

genphreak

04-13-2007, 04:54 PM

Well I'm just going to use 8mm ID fuel hose on the hose outlined above. I've put Gale's banjo bolts onto the oil spray bar, changed over all the gaskets from the headgasket kit and applied JB weld this evening, most of the coolant holes along the exhaust side of the block needed them. I replaced the two fuel hoses in the engine bay that goto the intake manifold also.Nice one mate. Aren't you going to mask off the cylinders??

BTW; the injector kits are on their way. Your share is a bit less than AU$30. Of course, to be doing them properly what we need is an ultrasonic cleaner and some special cleaning solution... Hmmm :) Nick

BigKriss

04-13-2007, 09:07 PM

Ryan I'm not going to get the injectors cleaned. I asked at a shop to do it, they said something like aud$30 each for them to clean them while they are out. I broke a small bit of the pintle caps on two of the injectors when installing new o-rings on the top of the injector, so Nick found these fuel injector service kits on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Injector-Service-Kit-Caps-O-Rings-Filters-8-CYL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQihZ009QQitem Z190101408566QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW).

genphreak

04-13-2007, 11:14 PM

Also how do I prepare the block. I was going to get the gasket debris off with a razor, will this be good enough?My guess would be yes, and very fine emery paper after that- with it all masked off that is. Then a go with the mill smooth file, but it's very hard with the block in the car- you'll need to setup a filing cabinet and so on beside the fender to lie on so you don't screw up your back and can get the job done properly. Did you get the files btw?

632 Regal

04-14-2007, 01:13 AM

fiveomotorsports sells new as much as cleaning them, if you didnt have a prob before chances are you aint going to have a problem now.

Ryan I'm not going to get the injectors cleaned. I asked at a shop to do it, they said something like aud$30 each for them to clean them while they are out. I broke a small bit of the pintle caps on two of the injectors when installing new o-rings on the top of the injector, so Nick found these fuel injector service kits on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Injector-Service-Kit-Caps-O-Rings-Filters-8-CYL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQihZ009QQitem Z190101408566QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW).

The Bigfella

04-18-2007, 01:29 AM

I got the M5 injectors done for $15 each - it was $20 each until I waved folding stuff. He reckoned they were filthy.

Mine's back on the road (last Tuesday) and run in - courtesy of a trip to Brisbane and back - time to get a hurry on mate!

BigKriss

04-18-2007, 01:45 AM

were did you get this done?

I got the M5 injectors done for $15 each - it was $20 each until I waved folding stuff. He reckoned they were filthy.

Mine's back on the road (last Tuesday) and run in - courtesy of a trip to Brisbane and back - time to get a hurry on mate!

The Bigfella

04-18-2007, 02:00 AM

I don't know his name (no receipt) - but he came to us in North Parra, where I rebuilt the engine. He's a mate of the car repair shop next door to my mate's place. I can find out his number tomorrow if you are anywhere near that sort of area - he's a mobile injector guy.

I'm a happy customer (the car is flying now).

The Bigfella

04-19-2007, 04:06 AM

Kris - tried to PM you the details but your inbox is full

BigKriss

04-26-2007, 05:22 AM

I go a put the cylinder head back on today, for some reason totally unknown to me, the crankshaft wasn't on 0|T must about 3/4 of an inch off. also I had to rotate the camshaft slightly on the head. When the timing chain is lined up to the head you can see in the picture below,

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/7701/pict0010pt2.jpg

that the "sprocket locating dowel" is not in the correct place. It should be were it is circled in yellow. This is when the crankshaft is on O|T.

Weird thing is the timing chain never came off the sprocket and Nick and I removed it with the crank at O|T and the camshaft it's it proper place according to the Bentleys manual.

Can I leave the crank in O|T ,take the sprocket off the timing chain. Move the cam to the correct position and then reinstall the sprocket in the right place with (obviously the chain attached)?

EDIT: I've been told;

real briefly... if your 100% sure that the crank and chain didn't move, then adjust the cam for it to fit.

I don't think this is wise though. I've been told that "leave the crank in O|T ,take the sprocket off the timing chain. Move the cam to the correct position and then reinstall the sprocket in the right place with (obviously the chain attached)?" this is fine.

What do you guys think?

aston_jag_tech

04-26-2007, 07:44 AM

uh ohh.......:O

winfred

04-26-2007, 08:03 AM

id get the crank on ot and align the cam as per bentley, it's been a while since i did a m30 but if i remember right with the cam at tdc both lobes on #1 will be pointing down, it's one of those things if i was there it'd come back to me and id have everything in position in a few seconds

BigKriss

04-26-2007, 08:06 AM

God has spoken, I must obey

id get the crank on ot and align the cam as per bentley, it's been a while since i did a m30 but if i remember right with the cam at tdc both lobes on #1 will be pointing down, it's one of those things if i was there it'd come back to me and id have everything in position in a few seconds

Bill R.

04-26-2007, 09:20 AM

Unscrew the timing chain tensioner, its taking up too much of the slack and thats why the gear won't align with it on tdc.

God has spoken, I must obey

Robin-535im

04-26-2007, 06:49 PM

I go a put the cylinder head back on today, for some reason totally unknown to me, the crankshaft wasn't on 0|T must about 3/4 of an inch off.

The chain can slip off the lower sprocket real easy, especially if the crankshaft was rotated.

I think (just MHO) that you align the crank at o|t and the cam with the two #1 lobes pointing equally "down", i.e., both equally offset from the "down" defined by the centerline of the engine, not by gravity. I'll have to learn for sure pretty soon here... my turn comes in a few weeks after the head comes back from the shop. Glad you're going through this first so I can learn... :)

BigKriss

04-28-2007, 05:21 AM

I got the car running again, first time it wouldn't start because some of the spark plug leads were around the wrong way. I let it idle for 25 mins then, did stage 3 of the head bolt torquing. I can't get on of the down pipes to match up with the exhaust manifold properly and I can't get the cat bolted onto the rear part of the exhaust either. I changed the oil after the 25 min run and added some bmw coolant also. Still haven't driven it yet but the oil level sensor is now not working.