Just a little bling bling teaser

[Jon K]

Today was very productive - we got Jay's (multiplex) head on and initial stage of 60 ft lbs on a 0.070" MLS done today, with all sealing and stuff, so that's good. I myself spent most of the day bead blasting various parts and then Jay helped powder coat them. I think it came out re-freakin-diculous.

Thanks again Jay!


http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/parts_coated.jpg


More to come if Jay lets me use the oven more! haha.

[gale]

Those are gorgeous -- most impressive!

[nizmainiac]

ooohhhh shiny, can you keep em like that though jon?:)

[Jon K]

ooohhhh shiny, can you keep em like that though jon?:)

That's the best part. Powder coating creates a similar finish as a color + epoxy over it. So, not only are the parts sickly shiny, but they have a smooth "clear coat" finish. I could have a major major oil leak and wipe it right off.

[AngryPopTart]

Fails for lack of removal of casting flash! :D

[wingman]

Fails for lack of removal of casting flash! :D

...And where are the bead-blasted and powder coated bolts??? Just joking, looks fabulous.

[Macv]

Bad-ass

[Paul in NZ]

thats fantastic,i have just revised my upcoming valve cover job.....

[John B.]

Your parts look great! Are you using one of the Eastwood kits? Are you prebaking the parts to sweat out the oils & degreasing before applying the coating?

[Jon K]

Thanks guys.

John B. I bead blast the parts very thoroughly

[Sam-Son]

I Want

[gmannino]

Very nice

[John B.]

Thanks guys.

John B. I bead blast the parts very thoroughly


That doesn't remove the oils & such down in the pores. Powder coaters always heat auto & cycle parts first to sweat out any oils, degrease & then add color/bake. If you don't the oils will come out under the paint & you will get poor adhesion. It may look good now but down the road it can come off in sheets.

[Jon K]

That doesn't remove the oils & such down in the pores. Powder coaters always heat auto & cycle parts first to sweat out any oils, degrease & then add color/bake. If you don't the oils will come out under the paint & you will get poor adhesion. It may look good now but down the road it can come off in sheets.

John, my friend who helped works for his father/owns JL Machine and make medical molds. If the parts were requiring pre-bake he'd have said so. He's done his own car several years ago the same way without issue.

[John B.]

John, my friend who helped works for his father/owns JL Machine and make medical molds. If the parts were requiring pre-bake he'd have said so. He's done his own car several years ago the same way without issue.


Jon you are free to do as you chose. I'm just telling you what is standard practice at any good powdercoater. I ran my own restoration business for 17 years & am quite familiar with GOOD painting & powdercoating prep.

[AngryPopTart]

Jon you are free to do as you chose. I'm just telling you what is standard practice at any good powdercoater. I ran my own restoration business for 17 years & am quite familiar with GOOD painting & powdercoating prep.

What encouraging and constructive posts. "ZOMG YOUR PARTZ ARE GOING TO FAILX0RZ CAUSE OF OILS!!!11ONE" No point in your posts since the work is already finished. It's one thing to chime in in the case that the coat did lift and you explain why, but stating this now is like saying, "Be aware that your friend who did the powdercoat job may not know what he's doing and your beautifully finished parts may be doomed to become ugly pieces of fail!"

Edit: I'm only partially serious BTW. Mostly just razzing you, but really let's not be discouraging. ^_^

[John B.]

"Be aware that your friend who did the powdercoat job may not know what he's doing and your beautifully finished parts may be doomed to become ugly pieces of fail!"


Couldn't have said it better myself!:) Actually I was thinking that these might not be the last pieces that he ever powdercoats & he might want to know how it should be done.

[Booster]

Wow, jon...they look great I think too. I've been in Sacramento for the last week and missed this.
Regarding the remarks about pre-baking.....thats a good valid technique to use just prior to blasting . But I've always just solvent tanked my parts and scrubbed them well with Scotchbrite and stainless wire brushes then took a rosebud torch to them before silica sand blasting.
I'd imagine Jon cleaned them pretty well before blasting.....should be fine.
I bet the valve cover would have looked good with that too !!:D
...........Vinny

[Jon K]

Wow, jon...they look great I think too. I've been in Sacramento for the last week and missed this.
Regarding the remarks about pre-baking.....thats a good valid technique to use just prior to blasting . But I've always just solvent tanked my parts and scrubbed them well with Scotchbrite and stainless wire brushes then took a rosebud torch to them before silica sand blasting.
I'd imagine Jon cleaned them pretty well before blasting.....should be fine.
I bet the valve cover would have looked good with that too !!:D
...........Vinny

Thanks Vinny. I did soak them in a solvent bath but left that part out figuring people wouldn't be swinging by my nuts hassling me. My friend makes medical injection molds, I am pretty sure he's competent here.

I am doing the valve cover in "xtreme chrome" with a candy gold top coat - should be exciting.

[steve0suprem0]

I am doing the valve cover in "xtreme chrome" with a candy gold top coat - should be exciting.

i gotta see this. sounds sweet.

oh to still be a powder coater... the scirocco had EVERYTHING coated. then again, i don't miss hacking up purple loogies, and pulling orange eye-boogers from under my lids every day.

and not to criticize or anything, but the pre-bake is a good idea. we always did. your parts aren't gonna fail and your coat isn't gonna come off in sheets, tho. if there were any oils in there, you'd have seen a spot with tiny bubbles under the coat.

[Jon K]

i gotta see this. sounds sweet.

oh to still be a powder coater... the scirocco had EVERYTHING coated. then again, i don't miss hacking up purple loogies, and pulling orange eye-boogers from under my lids every day.

and not to criticize or anything, but the pre-bake is a good idea. we always did. your parts aren't gonna fail and your coat isn't gonna come off in sheets, tho. if there were any oils in there, you'd have seen a spot with tiny bubbles under the coat.

I am going to pre bake the valve cover as its so gross!

It's already been thru a caustic bath for about 35 mins, then a prebake to 400. Then coat :)

Looks like Caswell shipped my powders sooner than expected! Look out for some SICK parts this weekend/next week!

[Jon K]

http://www.blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/candygold.jpg

Pics as promised.

Today jay and i did my valve cover xtreme chrome followed by candy gold top coat, turbo housing xtreme chrome + clear, and IC pipes xtreme chrome + clear. All this 2-stage powder coating is a real bitch.

The piping came out excellent pictures to follow tomorrow.

The gold came out "ok" in my opinion. We had trouble getting it to stick and when it would stick it would repel itself and there'd be "bald spots". I think higher voltage is the answer but I am not totally sure. I am going to stray a little from 2-stage powdercoating because its such a bitch. I wonder what would happen if I did gold over blasted aluminum. I have another valve cover to try that on, so we'll see!