A5s310z Speed Sensor?

[Spasso]

At the risk of incurring the wrath of the "search" promoters I have to ask this question.

I have indeed done the search under Trans Program" and most of the transmissions mentioned are the A4S or A5S560Z.

The transmission in my 530 is an A5S310Z and I was thinking of changing the speed sensor the next time I had the pan off for a service "while I was in there".

According to RealOEM there is no speed sensor listed but instead TWO pulse generators. Am I correct in assuming this is one and the same? and there are two?

Has anyone done this repair? Does the valve body have to come out to make the switch?

Even though I've done fluid and filter changes on both cars I'm NOT a transmission guy and don't want to get in over my head.

Thanks for the info,
DJ

[yaofeng]

The speed sensor is on the differential as I understand.

[Spasso]

According to this,
http://www.bmwe34.net./e34main/trouble/TransProgram.asp
there is one on the transmission too.

[whiskychaser]

The transmission in my 530 is an A5S310Z and I was thinking of changing the speed sensor the next time I had the pan off for a service "while I was in there".

Has anyone done this repair? Does the valve body have to come out to make the switch?

Just replaced both sensors in my 525i which has same box. Yes you need to drop the valve body as they sit on top of it. Are you getting an error code that makes you think you got a problem there?

[Spasso]

I've gotten a couple of short "flares" in RPM under hard acceleration and I have gotten one "Trans Program" message that disappeared the next time I started the car. Otherwise it runs and shifts perfectly. No other noticeable anomolies.

The first thing I am going to do is check the fluid level before I get started on other things.

I was planning on doing a fluid change on it this weekend and thought that as long as I had the pan off I could change the sensors out and work my way up to the other items listed in the troubleshooting guide.

How does your transmission work now?

[whiskychaser]

I was planning on doing a fluid change on it this weekend and thought that as long as I had the pan off I could change the sensors out and work my way up to the other items listed in the troubleshooting guide.

How does your transmission work now?[/QUOTE]

Mine is fantastic now. Like driving a different car. Just for info, you would get EGS code 16 (input sensor) or 44 (output sensor) if they are faulty. Bentleys shows you the pinout if you want to check them at the ECU. But it was wrong for mine. The sensors are across pins 16 and 44 and 14 and 42 on mine. With a DMM they read about 450 ohms and should differ from each other by only a few ohms. One of mine was over a meg! I was nervous about dropping the valve body because its like a sandwich with springs and balls bearings in the middle. Didnt want to undo the wrong bolts:-) It went fine for me but I wouldnt have changed them if I hadnt made sure one was duff.

[whiskychaser]

Correction: The output sensor code is 42. Been a long day :-)

[Spasso]

Hey thanks for the great information.

If I can check sensor function without dropping the V-body then great. I just need to figure out where you are doing your testing and try it for myself. (I haven't done the research in Bentley yet)

First things first, check the fluid level, start with the easy stuff.

[Spasso]

Question; When you mention getting an EGS code where does this code appear?
I have a Peake Tool but it is my understanding that it only reads engine functions.

So far I'm not pulling any codes at all with it.

[whiskychaser]

Question; When you mention getting an EGS code where does this code appear?
I have a Peake Tool but it is my understanding that it only reads engine functions.

So far I'm not pulling any codes at all with it.

No, I dont think the Peake will read EGS codes. I have a diagnostic interface for a laptop that will though. The ECU in mine is behind the right hand floor speaker. Its tucked up between the inner and outer skins. The pin numbers are printed inside the ECU socket. Dont forget (as I did!) that if you are looking at the connections inside the cable socket they will be reversed :-)

[Spasso]

No laptop or interface here. Mmmmmmmmmmmm.

[whiskychaser]

No laptop or interface here. Mmmmmmmmmmmm.

Its a handy bit of kit. It tells you where the problem is and the likely component at fault. But you have to get out the DMM and check. While you are at it you can also check out the MVs and temp sender :-) I defy anybody to check the readings at the gearbox socket. There just isnt room. Incidentally, the box was made by ZF and also goes under 5HP18 so you will get some more hits on that.

[Spasso]

Thanks.

[BillionPa]

the 2 sensors are for input (turbine) and output (shaft), they are inductive. you can test them with an ohmmeter while the car is off. there is also a thermistor on the sensor module.

values are as follows:
Temp Sensor: 1Kohms @ 25C, 962ohms @ 20C
speed sensors: 325ohms @ 20C
pressure regulator: 5.9ohms @ 20C
solenoids: 28ohms @ 20C
+- 10% variance ok for speed sensors, +- 7% for solenoids

one document i have says the output speed sensor is 200ohms....

if you get trans prog errors AFTER replacing the speed sensors, it means they are probably doing their job and detecting slip. of course, have it checked out if that happens!

[whiskychaser]

the 2 sensors are for input (turbine) and output (shaft), they are inductive. you can test them with an ohmmeter while the car is off. there is also a thermistor on the sensor module.

values are as follows:
Temp Sensor: 1Kohms @ 25C, 962ohms @ 20C
speed sensors: 325ohms @ 20C
pressure regulator: 5.9ohms @ 20C
solenoids: 28ohms @ 20C
+- 10% variance ok for speed sensors, +- 7% for solenoids

one document i have says the output speed sensor is 200ohms....

if you get trans prog errors AFTER replacing the speed sensors, it means they are probably doing their job and detecting slip. of course, have it checked out if that happens!

Must have read the same book. I got the readings as stated but found the speed sensors are around 250 ohm. The input (turbine) and output are the same part number : 0501311086. So readings should be within 2 or 3 ohms of each other. If your problem IS the sensors it should have registered a fault which can be read though as we said before, not with the Peake you have. Lets be positive and hope you just put some more oil in it and the problem went away :-)