View Full Version : Battery + junction
yaofeng
03-13-2007, 09:27 PM
Can someone who has a 540 or a 530 take a picture of the battery + junction to tell me which wire goes where? There are 5 studs on the B+ junction. The three big ones on the top are interconnected and linked to the battery positive post. My problem is the remaining two small ones. What's shown in the picture has a black wire and a green one. The green wire is originally green/black. When I attempted to start the car following what I thought would complete the 6 speed conversion, the starter kept cranking which brunt the black/green wire to a crisp. I replaced it with a green wire.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_4648.jpg
Also, can someone explain how the starting circuit works? Why is there a third wire connected to the starter solenoid (the black/green wire)?
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/starting.jpg
BillionPa
03-14-2007, 03:41 AM
does it have EWS2?
BillionPa
03-14-2007, 04:41 AM
one wire is for the motor, the other (smaller) is for the solenoid.
as for cabling in the box,
one goes to Battery (red)
one goes to Alternator (red)
one goes to Starter Solenoid (black/green)
one goes to Fuse Box area (connector X15 under dash) and connects to IHKR/OBC/GM (black/green)
this list is ordered thickest to thinnest wiring.
yaofeng
03-14-2007, 06:38 AM
one wire is for the motor, the other (smaller) is for the solenoid.
as for cabling in the box,
one goes to Battery (red)
one goes to Alternator (red)
one goes to Starter Solenoid (black/green)
one goes to Fuse Box area (connector X15 under dash) and connects to IHKR/OBC/GM (black/green)
this list is ordered thickest to thinnest wiring.
The thick red cables I know where they go. Do I connect the green wire (used to be green/black) and the black wire to one of the smaller studs? The two smaller studs are just junctions. The studs are not grounded.
BillionPa
03-14-2007, 03:12 PM
they connect to the other 2 studs, they are hot voltage at all times
yaofeng
03-14-2007, 03:29 PM
The two smaller studs are two individual bolts not connected to the three big ones which are hot all the time. If the black wire and the black/green wire (green in my case) are connected to one of the two small studs, they are not hot all the time.
BillionPa
03-19-2007, 11:06 PM
well, according to my diagram they should be.
did you replace the starter immobilization relay? auto and manuals use different ones.
BillionPa
03-19-2007, 11:15 PM
oh, and you have to sync the EWS control unit to the new DME.
bbig119
03-20-2007, 06:35 AM
Yaogfeng, do you still need that picture? I can get it for you when I'm home with enough light out to snap it-- maybe today.
yaofeng
03-20-2007, 06:41 AM
Yes I do. I'd appreciate very much.
The northeaster in New Jersey has my driveway still snow covered. I am going out of town again for two weeks but will check the board frequently.
I need to go back to basics and go over the starting circuit when I come back. In April the daylight will be longer and won't be as cold. First I need to go over the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch to the starter end to end, something I have not done. Next I may have to remove the starter to bench test it also, again something I have not done. I suspect the starter solenoid maybe shot although the starter motor is still good. But that's speculation until I remove the starter to verify.
yaofeng
03-20-2007, 06:44 AM
well, according to my diagram they should be.
did you replace the starter immobilization relay? auto and manuals use different ones.
If you look at the starting wiring diagram again you will find if the green/black wire is hot all the time the starter will be always running. It will be supplying the starter motor with 12 volts. I think that's how I got into trouble to begin with.
BillionPa
03-20-2007, 11:58 AM
i see everything now!!!
ok so on the left there are 2 sections to bolt in, the botton one should be unused. that is for the emissions control system on the late model 530.
then the "green" wire and the other small wire hit those 2 bottom right junctions that are not connected to the jump post.
the thick one goes to the starter (that the green one you replaced?) and the thin one goes to the other crap at the bottom right of the diagram. i assume its to shut off those components during start to provide more cranking juice.
yaofeng
03-20-2007, 12:13 PM
i see everything now!!!
ok so on the left there are 2 sections to bolt in, the botton one should be unused. that is for the emissions control system on the late model 530.
then the "green" wire and the other small wire hit those 2 bottom right junctions that are not connected to the jump post.
the thick one goes to the starter (that the green one you replaced?) and the thin one goes to the other crap at the bottom right of the diagram. i assume its to shut off those components during start to provide more cranking juice.
That's how I connected the wires at the B+ junction after the fiasco. Even though it still doesn't start I want to make sure they are connected right.
In reply to your earlier questions, the 540 has EWS, not EWS-1. I first bought a new starter immobilization relay for a 6 speed. It won't start. Then I bought one for the auto. But I am reasonably sure the original got fried.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3578.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_3569_crop.jpg
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