M60 Valve cover and Intake gasket parts list

[e34musician]

The car had been running great for the past 6 months with 2 new O2 sensors (fixed CEL problem) at 99K (106K miles now). Just started to develop rough idle with CEL 1222 code (intermittently). I did a big search. I think it's gasket time. I want to do both Valve cover and Intake gaskets at once so that I only pay one time labor - I will buy parts online and have my bimmer indy replace them. I just want to make sure that I order all the parts needed. Please help let me know if I miss anything below. Not sure if I need plug connectors though. I will order at autohaus.com. I can't seem to find plug connector boots (do they come with plug connectors? what is the number?). Thanks a lot!

11611729728 VictorReinz --> PCV Plate Gasket
EGR Valve Gasket; Intake Manifold to Rear Cover Plate $2.84

11611747085 BMW (OE) --> PCV Plate Cap
EGR Valve Gasket; Plug/Cap for Rear Cover Port $3.50

11617501562 BMW (OE) --> so called "PCV Plate"
EGR Valve; Rear Cover with Non-Return Valve $53.89

11611729727 VictorReinz
Intake Manifold Gasket; Front Intake Manifold to Throttle Housing $3.96

11611433328 VictorReinz/Gloeckler
Intake Manifold Gasket; Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head $13.81 x 4 = $55.24

11151736140 VictorReinz
Intake Manifold Gasket; Rear Intake Manifold Cover O-Ring; 20x3.55mm $1.49
13411733217 BMW (OE)
PCV Valve Grommet; Grommet for Ventilation Valve and Idle Control Valve $11.98

12139067831 Bremi
Spark Plug Connector; Coil To Spark Plug; Updated Version 1.8kOhms $5.66 x 8 = $45.28

11129069872 ElringKlinger/Meistersatz/VictorReinz
Valve Cover Gasket Set; Left - Cylinders 5-8 $21.34

11129069871 ElringKlinger/Meistersatz/VictorReinz
Valve Cover Gasket Set; Right - Cylinders 1-4 $21.34

11121437395 Gloeckler/VictorReinz
Valve Cover Grommet Gasket; Valve Cover Nut Seal $0.71 x 22 = $15.62

[markus]

im planning to do my intake gaskets ain a few months.

i plan on doing my valve cover gaskets and spark plugs this weekend.

when time does come to do the inktae gaskets im going to do the valley pan gasket and water pump and expansion tank at the same time. my car should run like a top then.

[Boone.Msi]

have fun with the fuel rail, you have to tug on that bitch to get it off. Only thing that really slowed me down, that and resealing the new gaskets. Pretty simple, should take a weekend unless you work at it nonstop.

[Boone.Msi]

oops, looks like your sending it to the indie. where are you sourcing your parts from the shop, or somewhere else? That PCV plate cap(11611747085) may be one of the reasons my idle is off.

[e34musician]

He decided to move out of CA to open a real shop in Las Vegas. That sucks. My buddy, who regularly works on cars and have all the tools, is having a new baby. What a timing :(

I just tried to reboot (unplug computer). It doesn't help. I confirmed that the code is gone after reboot. But when I fired her up, it idles very badly (engine almost dies). Then, CEL came on with the same code 1222. The car is almost undriveable. All the sudden this happened, I'm pretty sure there is an intake leak somewhere.

Maybe I will probably have to spend a weekend on this myself. I'm just a weekend (oil-change) mechanic. Will I be able to do this? Any special tools needed? I appreciate if anyone can link me to detailed instructions somewhere for both valve cover and intake gaskets. Thanks in advance!

[Boone.Msi]

off the top of my head you will need a 12 piece metric socket set, a dremel, a set of allen keys, channel locks, needle nose pliers, your basic tools and hopefully you have a parts store that is close, in case you drop some bolts or need a special tool.

Someone on here should chime in soon, over half the m60 owners on this board have done this. Use the search and see if you can find some more info until then.

I know theres a write up on here, search m60 intake manifold gaskets and it should be one of the first ones;)

[leicesterboy15]

I have just done this job and I too am a weekend mechanic (when I get the time) so its perfectly do-able! My thread is here:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=31138

The superb instructions I followed were here:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=17421


Follw these and you can go far wrong. Note the last comments, I disconnected the two fuel lines from the other ends as well as it was too tight trying to disconnect them from the fuel rail (also easier to put back on).
Other issues:
The clips holding the injector rail to the injectors (1 per injector) were a bitch to get off and I couldn't get them back on again after the job was done (also explained in last comment in above link).

All cable ties and cable holders etc for the wiring harnesses must be removed because you need as much play in the harness as possible (without over doing it) once you get these out of the way there is barely enough space to remove the intake, make sure you don't catch any of these as it can be pricey to sort.

When you put the mainfold back with the new gaskets make sure they sit properely. My new ones were much thicker than the old ones and as its a squeeze getting the intake into position they kept slipping off.

With these instructions you should be OK. It took me about 8 hours over 2 days to remove the intake, strip it, clean it and rebuild with new parts and it took me about 2 hours to put it all back together again! I had a few extra electrical connections to remove (i think cos of ASC) but as long as they are labelled when disconnected refitting is a doddle.

The parts list is key because there are a number of small parts all sold separately and you will end going back and fourth to the dealer if you don't have ths list. There is another version of the link with the instructions on which also has a parts list (which I used) but I can't find the thread, anyone know where it is?

While you're there you could replace the water pump and colling related bits (you will see it all as soon as you take off the manifold). I didn't do this as my water pump is only a few months old but had I been more organised with parts I would have replaced all o rings and gaskets I could access while the intake was off.

I also found this link but I found it after I did the job so I haven't read it in detail:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=1128&highlight=M60+intake

[yaofeng]

If you remove the intake manifold you may want to consider replacing the valley pan. In the spirit of screwing BMW owners, BMW wants you to replace the pan because the rubber gasket on the pan is baked on. The original pan has a paper gasket. You cannot buy the paper gasket anymore.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_540/DSC_2818.jpg

[Boone.Msi]

il have to remember that when i reseal the 4.0, too late for the 3.0:(

[632 Regal]

i missed that and the front throttle gasket, still get the 1222 when its cold out...sux

il have to remember that when i reseal the 4.0, too late for the 3.0:(

[e34musician]

Thanks a lot guys for all the info. You guys make me believe that I can do it, even though the instructions look long and scary (removing fuel lines?). I'm going to order the parts today. Will also order the Valley Pan.

Do you guys know park plug connector "boot" part number?

I will need to drive my wife's CR-V and carpool with her for now. It's only been 2 days, but I can't wait to get back on driving my bimmer already.

I will probably try to tear them apart one at a time while waiting for my parts. Is that a good idea? Or I should make sure I get all the parts before I start doing anything.

Thx again guys. If I'm stuck, I'll let you guys know.

[MBXB]

Pics here:

http://thumb11.webshots.net/t/55/155/4/82/74/2888482740047009931mwdulC_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/album/547573582fsDOsR)

[saluki540i]

I'm taking notes here too - great info. Hope I don't have to do the intake gaskets any time soon. I think I'd have to drive it sometime too.

[MBXB]

Don't forget the fuel and vac hoses:

fuel line TO and FROM the rails;
little S shaped line to the back of the PCV plate
rubber plug in back of the PCV plate;
rubber section of vac line from throttle body to brake booster
new clamps

Check realoem to make sure. BMA has all this stuff.

Additional tools:

Telescoping magnet
1/4 drive with 12" long extension

[Boone.Msi]

where are you guys getting that rubber plug for the back of the pcv? mines cracked and that may be a partial reason for my bad idle. anyone know what size it is?

[MBXB]

Ordered it from BMA.

[e34musician]

11611736648 BMW (OE) Intake Manifold Bushing; Spacer Bushing for Intake Manifold. There are 10 per car. ~$3.30 each => ~$33.00. See pic below.

4608

Jeff, are the plug boots you are talking about actually the plug connectors? I called Patrick (BMA). He mentioned there is no extra boot for the plugs? Please help.

I'm trying to get all the parts needed possible in one time.

[leicesterboy15]

I replaced mine because it was in the parts list I got. When I took the old ones out they looked ok, until I compared them to the new ones and saw how much the rubber had worn by being pressed in place for so long. You could probably do without but its a bitch of a job and it would be a shame to get other problems or have to take the whole thing apart again just because of these. Having said that you don't need to take the manifold off to replace these if you had to later, just the wiring loom.

[MBXB]

I didn't replace the bushings at all.
I did not replace no 4 or No 6:

(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EF83&mospid=47332&btnr=12_0409&hg=12&fg=05&hl=26) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EF83&mospid=47332&btnr=12_0409&hg=12&fg=05&hl=26%29).

I cleaned the coil pack as a unit. Used spray contact cleaner and Q tips;
All electrical connectors finished off with Deoxit Contact Cleaner/Preservative available from Radio Shack. You may as well clean and condition all the contacts since they'll all be right there when you pop that wiring loom off.



11611736648 BMW (OE) Intake Manifold Bushing; Spacer Bushing for Intake Manifold. There are 10 per car. ~$3.30 each => ~$33.00. See pic below.

4608

Jeff, are the plug boots you are talking about actually the plug connectors? I called Patrick (BMA). He mentioned there is no extra boot for the plugs? Please help.

I'm trying to get all the parts needed possible in one time.

[e34musician]

Thanks a lot for the good advice. Contact cleaner / conditioner is something I didn't think of. You save me some $ on no-need-to-change parts.



I didn't replace the bushings at all.
I did not replace no 4 or No 6:

(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EF83&mospid=47332&btnr=12_0409&hg=12&fg=05&hl=26) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EF83&mospid=47332&btnr=12_0409&hg=12&fg=05&hl=26%29).

I cleaned the coil pack as a unit. Used spray contact cleaner and Q tips;
All electrical connectors finished off with Deoxit Contact Cleaner/Preservative available from Radio Shack. You may as well clean and condition all the contacts since they'll all be right there when you pop that wiring loom off.

[e34musician]

Thanks MBXB for your PM and pictures.

I'm stuck :( The Torx 30 screw that holds the cable bracket to the throttle body was already striped when I first saw it. I was able to remove the other one. But this one will need a vise-grip (my vise-grip is too big to get in there).

I was trying to remove the accelerator and cruise cables through slot as some suggested. But how could you get the metal knot at the end of the cables through the slots on the bracket. Please let me know.

I'm going out to but a long nose vise-grip right now. My parts will be in on Tuesday. I try to take everything out and clean them this weekend.

Thanks in advance guys!

[MBXB]

Is this the Torx you stripped?

http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/4933/2295588190047009931S500x500Q85.jpg



Thanks MBXB for your PM and pictures.

I'm stuck :( The Torx 30 screw that holds the cable bracket to the throttle body was already striped when I first saw it. I was able to remove the other one. But this one will need a vise-grip (my vise-grip is too big to get in there).

I was trying to remove the accelerator and cruise cables through slot as some suggested. But how could you get the metal knot at the end of the cables through the slots on the bracket. Please let me know.

I'm going out to but a long nose vise-grip right now. My parts will be in on Tuesday. I try to take everything out and clean them this weekend.

Thanks in advance guys!

[MBXB]

Torx on the throttle cables did the same thing to me.

http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/3237/2096201330047009931S600x600Q85.jpg

[e34musician]

Yes, they are the 2 torx's on the cable bracket. The one that was already stripped (I didn't striped it) is the one closer to the cables. I was able to take the other one out w/o stripping it. How did you get around it? A vise-grip while it's still connected to intake which is still on top of the engine? Very limited space there. Wal-Mart did not carry the long nose vise-grip. I will have to go to OSH or home depot tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the pic again. That's exactly where I am at. Everything else went smoothly though. I still wonder how our friends here got the cable through slots on bracket. Anyone, please help. Thanks!


Torx on the throttle cables did the same thing to me.

http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/3237/2096201330047009931S600x600Q85.jpg

[icehole2001]

For those of you who've done this job, how are you cleaning under the intake manifold? I want it to sparkle.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=717815

[MBXB]

Soaked it in sink full of full strength Simple Green; get the crevices with a stiff parts brush

[icehole2001]

I still wonder how our friends here got the cable through slots on bracket. Anyone, please help. Thanks!

I didn't have any trouble with the cables. Unless there's a difference in year models, you pull open the throttle plate and the cables should be able to pop out of the square holes. Then you slide them out the sides.


Soaked it in sink full of full strength Simple Green; get the crevices with a stiff parts brush

Thanks, but actually I was referring to the valley, not the underside of the manifold. Mines back together and running like a queen already, but I am still curious.

And beautiful car by the way. I like that you kept all the chrome. Cleanliness!

[e34musician]

Guys, thanks for all your helps. The new vise grip (big jaw) did a trick on removing that torx screw. It took me about a week (on and off) to replace intake manifold, valve cover gaskets and PCV plate. I bought a lot of new little tools while in progress.

I discovered that the intake manifold gaskets and PCV plates that were already on the car were fairly new. They must have been changed by PO who did not know much about car and did not keep the record. The intake gaskets were on with sticky black permatex - they stick on the engine when I removed the intake out. It was a PITA and time consuming to clean all the permatex out from the head without dropping anything into the valve train. The front gasket though is black (must be orginal one) and hard as rock. I'm glad I get to change them all. The engine looks very clean. I managed to break a few of the injector connectors when (already carefully) removing the 2 wire ducts. I put them back on OK with some elec tape.

The valve cover gaskets also look fairly new. But there were some oil in the plug holes, but not too much. I was surprised that the 22 bolts on the valve covers were not on very tight at all. This could be that the rubber washers are bad - they are old, flaten and hard. I brush off the paint on the cover where the gasket slots are before stalling the new gaskets and washers. Again, it's time consuming.

With all that, it doesn't fix my problem at all!!! It seems fine at first. But, 3 mins later, it goes up and down and the car stall. But I can start it right back up OK every time. Again, I still got the same code. I did figured out though that I can read more than one code by hitting the paddle another 5 times and I can now clear all the codes when I see the last code is 1000. The car still throw 1213 and 1222 codes and CEL is on intermitently. I tried to use cab cleaner to find the leak, but no luck. The fact that car can start right back up again after dying indicates that it is not fuel delivery system (fuel pump) - I used to have the fuel pump on & off problem on an old 85 accord. It did not start easily when the fuel pump is temporary out.

I spent a lot of time - I really mean A LOT - searching / reading through all the forums and posts. I ran into one post on "roadfy" that the car act exactly the same as mine. The owner changed a lot of parts and still the problem persist. After searching for 1 year, he finally found that it was MAF sensor that is BAD. So I gave it a shot today, I unplug the MAF (of course the CEL is now on all the time with a new code 1215). The result is the car ran very smooth and never stall again after ~25 miles of driving (freeway and local) I then tried to clean the MAF with Cab cleaner and cotton butts. Plug it back in, drive for 5 minutes then the car started to go rough and stall again.

Do you think I have found the curprit here? Or I am just patching the problem :) I am trying to understand the logic here. MAF intermittently sends wrong "air flow" message to the DME -> the DME trys to compensate it -> screw up the real mixture (too lean or too rich) -> idle goes really rough -> the car stalled with 1213 and 1222 codes.

Whatever it is. I will order my new MAF tonight. Is there any harm to drive the car without MAF plug in?

I LOVE THE INTERNET!

[e34musician]

After one week of sealing all the intake gaskets, PCV plate, valve cover gaskets, the problem still exists. My new MAF sensor ($270), new air intake duct ($74) and new little hose ($5) btw PCV plate and fuel regulator arrived today.

It was MAF sensor that is BAD. I actually installed the air duct and the new hose first to confirm that the problem is not air leak. The problem was still there.

I then install MAF and reboot, the problem was gone. The engine idle very smooth and no more gas smell from exhaust. Test drive went great - the car feels lighter somehow. I hope my MPG will also improve :)

It wasn't too bad. I can take the intake sealing as preventive items - I spent a lot of time and effort to do it though. I'm glad I found the curprit relately quick. Bottom line, I fixed my own car without taking it to a mechanics which make me feel so good ;)

I can sleep well now. Next on the list is the front suspension.

[Ferret]

I'm so glad the diesel doesnt need a MAF or airtight manifolds :)

[e34musician]

it must be the ICV that was stuck before. I clean it pretty good with TB cleaner and make sure that the little metal gate flip easily with a twist of my hand. Apperently, it was pretty dirty and stuck before - God knows when it was cleaned last time.

Link on how to clean ICV (sorry for posting other forum link)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-589747.html

Just for case study and reference sake, here is the background of the problem and fix.

1.) 94' 530ia with 106kmi, all the sudden, started to have intermitently rough idle at stop or 1-2 mins after start (not temperature dependence).

2.) the rough idle got worse very quickly (hunting up and down) so the car stalls if it happens. CEL is on and off intermitently with 1222 and 1213 codes. O2 sensors are only 5K miles new. And there is no reason why both went (2 fault codes) at the same time. Once stalling, the car can start right back up with no problem.

3.) Due to a quick search, I thought it was intake leak problem so I went and reseal the whole intake and valve cover gaskets, clean TB and ICV and reboot. It doesn't fix my problem. ICV buzz's (touch and feel with finger) when ignition key is on (engine off).

4.) Did a big search. There were a few rare M60 V8 cases that MAF was the cause. I went ahead and unplug MAF. The car now throw 1215 and CEL is on all the time. But the car run fine (seems run rich though, in safemode) and never stall. The car is now drive able.

5.) Order new MAF, install it... PROBLEM fixed! No more rought idle. No more code and CEL. The car now runs like a cat.

Hope this helps M60 folks some how. Thanks guys for all the help.

[shogun]

here is another diy for valve cover
*DIY M60 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1769122)