My car is about to get whacky!

[Jon K]

Just ordered 10mm ARP headstuds and a Cometic 0.140" MLS headgasket which will lower the compression from 10.0:1 to ~8.3:1. Right now I am safe to run about a max of 10 psi, which I am doing, on the stock compression. My tuning buddy states that he has run 35 psi on a 8.4:1 motor using a thick MLS headgasket with great results. So, although I don't wish to run 35 psi, it seems that the setup will be good for it. I am going to start out at about 15 or 16 psi and see how she feels, and then go for 20 and see what the increase is. From there I will have to upgrade my MAP sensor.

20 psi should put the car over the 500 hp mark with the right tune.

[BigKriss]

WHOOOOO HOOOOOOOO! I want some more videos, inside the car and outside.

[Macv]

I want it put together and working by June 9th so I can have a ride in Chicago.

[Booster]

Sounds killer Jon. Can I ask what the metal head gasket cost you ? I've seen the ARP's for sale on the Egay before.
Reminding everyone.....the 500hp is STILL on his stock internal M50 !!:D
As Jon said himself to me once before " I hope it doesent EXPLODENATE" !lol.
..............Vinny

[Jon K]

Sounds killer Jon. Can I ask what the metal head gasket cost you ? I've seen the ARP's for sale on the Egay before.
Reminding everyone.....the 500hp is STILL on his stock internal M50 !!:D
As Jon said himself to me once before " I hope it doesent EXPLODENATE" !lol.
..............Vinny

Vinny I got the MLS from VAC in philly for $229 or whatever. The ARP studs I bought from a retailer I know about $180 or so.

I am getting excited.

[Booster]

Vinny I got the MLS from VAC in philly for $229 or whatever. The ARP studs I bought from a retailer I know about $180 or so.

I am getting excited.

Excited ??:p I can ONLY imagine !!:D Prepare for a TIRE fund ,lol
...........V'

[Dr. evil]

is the stock timing chain still going to work???

[attack eagle]

Just ordered 10mm ARP headstuds and a Cometic 0.140" MLS headgasket which will lower the compression from 10.0:1 to ~8.3:1. Right now I am safe to run about a max of 10 psi, which I am doing, on the stock compression. My tuning buddy states that he has run 35 psi on a 8.4:1 motor using a thick MLS headgasket with great results. So, although I don't wish to run 35 psi, it seems that the setup will be good for it. I am going to start out at about 15 or 16 psi and see how she feels, and then go for 20 and see what the increase is. From there I will have to upgrade my MAP sensor.

20 psi should put the car over the 500 hp mark with the right tune.
Just remember that lowering compression is going to lower efficiency (especially off boost). You may wind up having to increase boost to 13-14 just to get back to where you are now.

[Jon K]

Just remember that lowering compression is going to lower efficiency (especially off boost). You may wind up having to increase boost to 13-14 just to get back to where you are now.


Well the off boost I am not worried about - ever drive a VW passat 1.8T? 9.3:1 compression and 1.8L :( They still drive nicely. Similar scenario since I have the displacement to help. I have been in a few 8.5:1 M50/S50 cars and it's not as bad as you think. People have dyno'd -10 hp on 8.5:1, and that's completely fine.

My effective CR is 16.9:1 at 10:1 static compression and 9 psi. 8.3:1 static takes 11 - 11.5 psi to get back up there, not a big difference honestly. The difference is, however, that I can run more timing and MUCH more boost. I am looking in the vicinity of 16 - 18 psi right off the bat on my Bosch 42# injectors. I have my eye on a set of Siemens 750cc (72#) injectors to support the whacky boost.

[attack eagle]

no passats, but the relative lack of engine braking at 8.5:1 in my DSM was a big surprise. Absolutely concur that lower compression will let you run higher absolute boost levels and make more power without detonation.

[Jon K]

no passats, but the relative lack of engine braking at 8.5:1 in my DSM was a big surprise. Absolutely concur that lower compression will let you run higher absolute boost levels and make more power without detonation.


That wasn't the compression... that was...........


http://pics.dsm.org/albums/Various-pics/crankwalk2.jpg



CRANK WALK!!!!


Sorry couldn't resist.

[nizmainiac]

you'll still want more power after you've got used to it jon:D

[attack eagle]

That wasn't the compression... that was...........


CRANK WALK!!!!




Been there, done that, sold the movie rights.

The company that I bought the $1000 extended warranty from was unhappy that I used it for a $6000 engine replacement 6 weeks after buying the car. :D I knew it was going when I bought it.

[Jon K]

you'll still want more power after you've got used to it jon:D


Let hope that is a little bit down the road.

I am graduating so once I get a job (and a daily E30) I will put pistons and rods in the car. Then it will be silly to the max.

[BillionPa]

with lightweight pistons and rods (and maybe crank?) you might want to up the compression back up a bit to around 9.0

[Jon K]

with lightweight pistons and rods (and maybe crank?) you might want to up the compression back up a bit to around 9.0


compression has no correlation with rotating mass. and additionally, forged rods do not weigh much less. nor do forged pistons. This motor will always be in the 8.2 - 8.5:1 area

[mzarifkar]

Movin on Up!
Jon, I think we all live vicariously through you and your unsatiable quest for power

[E34 530]

Gotta learn how to shift first...:p

[BillionPa]

there is a difference between forged and lightweight in that regard. forged doesnt necessarily mean lightweight, but lightweight is almost always forged, and always very very expensive.

i was thinking if they could make a carbon/kevlar crankshaft, but instead of using liquid polymer resin that solidifies, use molten aluminum thats pressure fed into the fiber... how fricken cool would that be!

[Jon K]

there is a difference between forged and lightweight in that regard. forged doesnt necessarily mean lightweight, but lightweight is almost always forged, and always very very expensive.

i was thinking if they could make a carbon/kevlar crankshaft, but instead of using liquid polymer resin that solidifies, use molten aluminum thats pressure fed into the fiber... how fricken cool would that be!

an inline 6 is a naturally balanced crankshaft, lightening it too much would make it awkward to balance the rotating mass of the rods and pistons.

If I do anything, it'll be Ross or JE pistons and pauter rods. Then I am done, for good.

[attack eagle]

i was thinking if they could make a carbon/kevlar crankshaft, but instead of using liquid polymer resin that solidifies, use molten aluminum thats pressure fed into the fiber... how fricken cool would that be!
not very, for the same reason carbon driveshafts suck.
And
not very, for the same reason aluminum driveshafts rock.

:D

[Paul in NZ]

what trans are you running Jon.?I know you have a special clutch but dont remember what transmission you have.

[Booster]

i was thinking if they could make a carbon/kevlar crankshaft, but instead of using liquid polymer resin that solidifies, use molten aluminum thats pressure fed into the fiber... how fricken cool would that be!

That and the fact that Carbon Fiber causes Galvanic Corrosion when placed directly in contact with metals.:(
Maybe a hollow cored Titanium "sell your offspring" crank...that WOULD rock down the road !!
.....Vinny

[Elekta]

If I do anything, it'll be Ross or JE pistons and pauter rods. Then I am done, for good.

MARK, date and time.....he wrote 'done for good'


;)