Rear Passenger Side Door Lock Stuck - 1989 535i

[angusbn]

Front doors and rear driver side door lock correctly when engaged from either the drivers or passenger side central lock system. Rear passenger side lock remains stuck in a extended position. Can't manually move it up or down. Here's what I've checked/replaced:

1. replaced both 7.5amp fuses under the back seat. No difference.
2. checked wiring harness in truck and it looks fine. No frayed wires.
3. can't hear the rear passenger door actuator engage.

Problem is the rear door actuator, right?

realoem shows the part# as 51268350182. Where can I find one?

BTW - I've checked the archives and didn't find anything describing exactly the same problem.

[nirvana19]

Yes.

I had the exact same problem. Took my car into a BMW shop with my the trim around my right rear door pulled off and my seat popped out for an inspection (I was going to finish opening the door later). Car failed inspection (not because of the door) and the guy wanted 3k to fix it (problems including lack of rear center seat belt, underneath the rear seat which was half off, wiper blades, one twisted brake hose, and a ball joint/thrust arm...oh and ps fluid was somewhat low (oops)). Anyway, guy said he would fix the door for about 100 bucks. Decided to save myself time and gave in. ******* charged 266 dollars of labor to fix the door and 90 for the failed inspection. And about 40 dollars in shop tools and parts (he didn't even replace the actuator, just pulled it out and plopped it on the floor so the door locks and unlocks manually).

So basically, you have to pull that door panel off and get the actuator off. Only way to do it.. I tried everything else. Its just a matter of pulling as much trim off around the door as you can and pushing and pulling and sticking something behind the door and prying off as many clips as possible until you can get the panel off. Then you just have to put it back together...

[Rus]

I has a similar issue. I disassembled my actuator and found that the broken rubber seal on it let water in. Water + electric motors = rust and seize up. I got a used actuator as replacement. If you go this route, make sure the rubber boot on it is intact. If not, its probably got little life left in it. Replacement is pretty simple. Requires pulling off the door panel, pulling away the plastic liner, and then undoing two 6mm hex-bolts. I believe the rear actuators are identical to each other too.

[angusbn]

Your right!! Pulled out the actuator and the rubber boot covering the pivoting arm was cracked in half allowing water to seep into the unit. Clean it out and baked (:>) it in the oven at low, low heat for 20 minutes and it works like a charm!! Thanks. You saved me $$$.

Now need to fashion a new rubber boot and reassemble.

Total time - 30 minutes

[Rus]

Your right!! Pulled out the actuator and the rubber boot covering the pivoting arm was cracked in half allowing water to seep into the unit. Clean it out and baked (:>) it in the oven at low, low heat for 20 minutes and it works like a charm!! Thanks. You saved me $$$.

Now need to fashion a new rubber boot and reassemble.

Total time - 30 minutes

Glad I could help. Didn't think it was possible to bring these suckers back from the dead. When I took my broken one apart it was severely rusted and the motors were in poor shape. Mine probably wouldn't have sprung into action after an oven drying like yours.

[uscharalph]

Yes.

I had the exact same problem. Took my car into a BMW shop with my the trim around my right rear door pulled off and my seat popped out for an inspection (I was going to finish opening the door later). Car failed inspection (not because of the door) and the guy wanted 3k to fix it (problems including lack of rear center seat belt, underneath the rear seat which was half off, wiper blades, one twisted brake hose, and a ball joint/thrust arm...oh and ps fluid was somewhat low (oops)). Anyway, guy said he would fix the door for about 100 bucks. Decided to save myself time and gave in. ******* charged 266 dollars of labor to fix the door and 90 for the failed inspection. And about 40 dollars in shop tools and parts (he didn't even replace the actuator, just pulled it out and plopped it on the floor so the door locks and unlocks manually).

So basically, you have to pull that door panel off and get the actuator off. Only way to do it.. I tried everything else. Its just a matter of pulling as much trim off around the door as you can and pushing and pulling and sticking something behind the door and prying off as many clips as possible until you can get the panel off. Then you just have to put it back together...
My drivers side rear just started acting up recently. If I lock and unlock it a couple of times it works. Looks like I'll be opening up that door panel soon.