Key won't turn to start...dealer screwing me?

[RichG]

ok, I go try to start the car and the key won't turn the ignition far enough to start it. No warning signs before this. It will turn just far enough to release the steering wheel from being locked, but it has to be held there or some spring action returns the key to a position where it will lock the wheel again. I remove the actual ignition switch and can turn that with a screw driver and the car will start fine. I just couldn't drive it because I couldn't keep the wheel from being locked. I tried a second key and I tried to use a paper clip to remove the cylinder as posted many places, but I couldn't get it to work. Does the key have to be in position 1 for this to work? It won't quite make it to that position.

So I have it towed to the dealer (ok, maybe stupid, but the place I had been working with didn't seem to be working out).
Dealer calls and says it will be $685 Parts & Labor for new lock cylinder AND ignition housing. I searched through many threads and I didn't see anyone having to replace the HOUSING when they had problems with the key not working.

Am I getting screwed here? I thought all it would be just a new lock cylinder. And to top it off, they say it will take a full week to get it in. Past threads have said BMA has provided it keyed to the VIN number in just a few days.

I can do some repairs myself, but since I couldn't get the cylinder out, I was giving up due to lack of time/confidence. I guess I could see if the housing actually does need replaced, it could cost that much since I think the steering wheel would have to be pulled and it does have an air bag (7/1990 525i M20 5-speed) no tilt steering.

Sorry for the long post. I would appreciated any thoughts or suggestions. Getting to the point where the cost of repairs is started to wear on the budget vs. some new POS car.

[rickm]

Can you find another indy for a second opinion? Maybe see if there are any posters from here or bmwcca folks in your neck of the woods that could see if they can remove it?

[RichG]

Can you find another indy for a second opinion? Maybe see if there are any posters from here or bmwcca folks in your neck of the woods that could see if they can remove it?

There are a couple of other indys around town, but I don't even know who to try. Plus the car is at the dealer's right now and to move it, it needs to be towed. I've got AAA for towing, but I don't want to burn up the service calls to go from one to another. I know there are a couple of guys around the Indianapolis area that are posters here, but I've never had contact with any of them.
I guess what's bothering me is the ignition housing. What's in there that would be cause for it needing replaced? From messing with it, it seems the lock (tumblers and such) is the problem.

[Kalevera]

When they get really bad, the housing has to be cut off. If you can remove your spinning lock cylinder and install the new one, then you might not need a new steering lock housing.

[gale]

I just went thru this with mine last month. I got off lucky and only had to replace the barrel but it failed almost completely in just a matter of days, with never having any prior signs of problems.

If your key is turning, then definitely the problem is with the housing and not the barrel, so I would say the dealer is not feeding you a line. There is cast aluminum cam-like dammit inside the housing that can break or twist or get worn beyond use, I read of someone else having that part break not long ago. There is also a swash plate & plunger. None of those parts are shown individually in www.realoem.com so I would guess they are only available with a new complete housing. The inside bore of the housing also wears.

I'm guessing at least $250-300 for parts plus labor. Changing the housing is much more involved than simply popping the barrel out, so $685 parts & labor at the dealer doesnt' sound totally outrageous.

I know what you mean regretting having to pay big bucks to fix a seemingly simple problem. In the end, it's almost always cheaper to keep it on a pay-as-you-go basis vs. selling & buying a new POS.

[RichG]

When they get really bad, the housing has to be cut off. If you can remove your spinning lock cylinder and install the new one, then you might not need a new steering lock housing.

That's what I was hoping for. The problem is it's not spinning. It only turns so far and won't even make it to position 1 for accessories to get a paper clip to try to remove it. It seems an attempt could at least be made to remove the cylinder "destructively", meaning not even attempting to save the cylinder, but just to get it out without hosing the housing. Like drill a hole in the cylinder where it should be to line up with the releasing mechanism. Never having worked on one, I can't say though.

[RichG]

I just went thru this with mine last month. I got off lucky and only had to replace the barrel but it failed almost completely in just a matter of days, with never having any prior signs of problems.

If your key is turning, then definitely the problem is with the housing and not the barrel, so I would say the dealer is not feeding you a line. There is cast aluminum cam-like dammit inside the housing that can break or twist or get worn beyond use, I read of someone else having that part break not long ago. There is also a swash plate & plunger. None of those parts are shown individually in www.realoem.com so I would guess they are only available with a new complete housing. The inside bore of the housing also wears.

I'm guessing at least $250-300 for parts plus labor. Changing the housing is much more involved than simply popping the barrel out, so $685 parts & labor at the dealer doesn't sound totally outrageous.

I know what you mean regretting having to pay big bucks to fix a seemingly simple problem. In the end, it's almost always cheaper to keep it on a pay-as-you-go basis vs. selling & buying a new POS.

Well, I guess that makes me feel a little better. Yeah, I was looking on realoem.com and didn't see any of the small bits you mentioned, so I didn't see what could go wrong with the housing.
I can see where replacing the housing is much more involved than just the cylinder...that's why I was hoping I could just get the cylinder replaced.

As far as the dealer here goes, I'd like to trust them...it's just...it's the dealer. I've had ok experience with them in the past, I guess this just caught me by surprise.

Oh well, a couple of grand here, a couple of grand there. wtf...it's only money. :) I just have to convince the wife that this *is* cheaper than a new car.

[The Bigfella]

I had the same thing happen with my Mercedes 500SEC a few years back - the stealer wanted about $650 for just the parts. I ended up pulling the bits out of my spares car and putting up with the two keys.

Ian

[Ross]

It's a doable DIY and has been covered here a few times. The lock housing is #32321160278 and lists for $117 at the dealer, two one time use bolts are required also 32311157967 @ $3.94 ea.
Not particularly fun but a big savings.

[RichG]

It's a doable DIY and has been covered here a few times. The lock housing is #32321160278 and lists for $117 at the dealer, two one time use bolts are required also 32311157967 @ $3.94 ea.
Not particularly fun but a big savings.

I'm not a big DIYer. I can do some, and would probably do the cylinder itself, but the housing is a bit involved for me. I'll wuss out and have the dealer do it. I've got a discount from a previous job so it should be around $600 for the housing, cylinder, and labor. If it weren't my daily driver, I might be more inclined to take time and try it on my own.

Thanks for the numbers. I'll compare them to what I actually get charged.

[MagicMike]

The same exact thing happened to me a year back. In my case the key actually was stuck in the lock cylinder. I paid close to $700 at the dealership so don't feel to bad. For the future, always make sure that the key you are using is in good shape. A worn key can actually trigger any lock cylinder to go bad. A key is alot cheaper to replace than a lock cylinder.

[Ross]

Ask them to save the broken part for yoy. When you see how flimsy it is you'll understand why it breaks. The replacement is exactly the same too.
If the steering lock is binding due to the wheels being turned and you try to overcome it turning the key and not wiggle the wheel SNAP.

[black_bird_blue]

I recently had a recall from BMW UK on my 1995 E34 that was something to do with a "possible failure in the steering lock mechanism" - I'm guessing it's somehow related. Mine was replaced courtesy of BMW UK, which for a 12 year-old car is really not bad at all...

Damian

[RichG]

The same exact thing happened to me a year back. In my case the key actually was stuck in the lock cylinder. I paid close to $700 at the dealership so don't feel to bad. For the future, always make sure that the key you are using is in good shape. A worn key can actually trigger any lock cylinder to go bad. A key is alot cheaper to replace than a lock cylinder.

The key is worn. And the spare was made from the worn original.
I'll look into getting a new key using the VIN. Since it's a 1990, I don't think there is any kind of coding with it.