Shake after changing wheels

[mamilapon]

OK now I know this subject has been discussed many times, but I feel my problem might be different. I was running 15" basket weaves on my car with 225/60-15's. Never had a shimmy problem at any speed.Last Saturday, I bought a set of 17 inch M5 rims with 245/45/17 tyres. (Rims are 17X8).
As soon as I hit 80-85 Kmh the shimmy starts pretty hard and stops after 95-100Kph. Upon coasting if I hit the brakes even softly, bad shimmy again complete with steering wheel shake.I watched the guy balance the wheels and they're spot on. I've got standard suspention.My bushes are new.What could have suddenly changed?:( Could it be an alignment problem with the car now sitting slightly higher?Any ideas and advice welcome.

[BigKriss]

I thought the car sits at the same height still, well the overall wheel/tyre diameter is the same with the larger wheels. Did you get throwing stars? Maybe your lower control arms are old and the bushes there are causing a shake. But I'm thinking it has to be the wheels still since that's the only changes you made and the problem wasn't apparant with the old wheels.

[Tiger]

Hub centric rings required.

[BigKriss]

not if they are throwing stars, they fit without rings. The OP says "I bought a set of 17 inch M5 rims with 245/45/17 tyres"


Hub centric rings required.

[632 Regal]

it is still possible they are aftermarket requiring the rings. I vote rings also.

not if they are throwing stars, they fit without rings. The OP says "I bought a set of 17 inch M5 rims with 245/45/17 tyres"

[mamilapon]

**** how do I add a pic of the wheel to my message?( Im an Idiot)

[mamilapon]

No they are not throwing stars

[Paul in NZ]

if they are E39 m5 wheels YOU NEED THE RINGS and 245/45/17s are not the correct sized tyre

[Rick L]

17" M5 rims only came in E34. 18" rims for E39 M5. If they are true 17" M5 rims, they are hub-centric. If rims are straight and balanced but still an issue, make sure the tires are perfectly round. I have seen bad tires. Also, certain tires create flat spots when you let them sit for a period of time and with worn suspension bushings make it even worse. :(

[t.wak]

I reckon that they are replica E39 M5 rims, in 17" size... Which require hub-centric rings.

[mamilapon]

Gping back to wheel shop to get hubcentrics installed

[Ross]

I think you will find it is a suspension issue. The fact that it comes on when the front dives on braking leads me to that conclusion.
Maybe changing your toe setting will help too.

[kuly]

OK now I know this subject has been discussed many times, but I feel my problem might be different. I was running 15" basket weaves on my car with 225/60-15's. Never had a shimmy problem at any speed.Last Saturday, I bought a set of 17 inch M5 rims with 245/45/17 tyres. (Rims are 17X8).
As soon as I hit 80-85 Kmh the shimmy starts pretty hard and stops after 95-100Kph. Upon coasting if I hit the brakes even softly, bad shimmy again complete with steering wheel shake.I watched the guy balance the wheels and they're spot on. I've got standard suspention.My bushes are new.What could have suddenly changed?:( Could it be an alignment problem with the car now sitting slightly higher?Any ideas and advice welcome.


Had the same issue upon upgrading from 15s to 17s and when replaced thrust arms with 750 bushings problem solved.:)

[spyrot1]

Had the same issue upon upgrading from 15s to 17s and when replaced thrust arms with 750 bushings problem solved.:)

+1

Thrust arms fixed it for me also...

[AutoXr]

Same exact experience. The problem is that the tall, soft sidewall on the 15" tires absorb much of that shimmy energy and transmit little to the steering wheel. Lower profile tires make the shimmy more detectable. Put the old tires on and try it.

I'm going for the thrust arms as well. (When I get time!)

[rob101]

Same exact experience. The problem is that the tall, soft sidewall on the 15" tires absorb much of that shimmy energy and transmit little to the steering wheel. Lower profile tires make the shimmy more detectable. Put the old tires on and try it.

I'm going for the thrust arms as well. (When I get time!)
M5 bushes people. I have the same problem and have T-stars. you can either A. have high profile tyres which absorbs the vibrations or b. get meatier thrust arm bushes which does that also.
the guru's here say m5 bushes for the thrust arms kills shimmy dead ("it is the cure all"), so thats my solution.

[mamilapon]

My bushes are virtually new.Yester I pulled the center cap off one of the front wheels while installed, and then pulled the bolts out. There would have been at least 3 millimeters of up and down and sideways movement between the hub and the wheel bore.So I might go for hubcentrics first before contemplating changing bushes again.

[mamilapon]

day!

[GJPinAU]

OK now I know this subject has been discussed many times, but I feel my problem might be different. I was running 15" basket weaves on my car with 225/60-15's. Never had a shimmy problem at any speed.Last Saturday, I bought a set of 17 inch M5 rims with 245/45/17 tyres. (Rims are 17X8).
As soon as I hit 80-85 Kmh the shimmy starts pretty hard and stops after 95-100Kph. Upon coasting if I hit the brakes even softly, bad shimmy again complete with steering wheel shake.I watched the guy balance the wheels and they're spot on. I've got standard suspention.My bushes are new.What could have suddenly changed?:( Could it be an alignment problem with the car now sitting slightly higher?Any ideas and advice welcome.
Have a look here:
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=7946

there are different sized hub rings, so be careful.

[mamilapon]

Hey got it mate, you right. I took the wheels to the place i bought them from and the owner told me they put the wrong shim inside the wheel bore so he rang around cause he didn't have the right ones. Now they got to order it from Brissy and I'll get them tomorrow. They are actually quite thick those ones. Thanks.

[Paul in NZ]

glad you gt it sorted,there needs to be absolutely minimal movement between wheel and hub.There has to be tiny bit of clearance so yu can get the wheel on and off.

[mamilapon]

glad you gt it sorted,there needs to be absolutely minimal movement between wheel and hub.There has to be tiny bit of clearance so yu can get the wheel on and off.
As long as the new rings are not installed and I take the car on the freeway i wont know that its fixed. So Ill keep you guys posted. Should know by tomorrow.:)

[Ross]

As long as the new rings are not installed and I take the car on the freeway i wont know that its fixed. So Ill keep you guys posted. Should know by tomorrow.:)
So?

[Ferret]

So?

Lol.

The hubcentrics on mine are tiny, thinnest shim ever:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a190/Ferret101/IMG_9359.jpg

And I just discovered that if you dont torque up the bolts to a high degree before you lower the car, you get a 40mph shimmy.

[mamilapon]

Hmm not yet they were able to get their hands on 3 of them still waiting for another one from interstate. The wheels are sitting in the garage aching to hit the bitumen.

[mamilapon]

What wheels are you running?

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

put a help thread out for same reason,have 17`s which are genuine but centres are not for E34, measure the hubs, thats your problem. Would suggest you do what I suggested on previous thread, balance wheels alone then add tyres,soon tell how good both are .

[Ferret]

What wheels are you running?

I is be running 17" Alpina *cough*clones...
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a190/Ferret101/DSC00037-1.jpg

The front caps are refitted now though... I'd been working on the brakes when that was snapped.