My motor build as a whole

[Jon K]

I am going to make a unified thread that will contain all progress on my engine build so others can follow. It has been expressed to me that people wish some of my other write-ups were around, so I figure I can start by encapsulating this one.

First I'd like to thank Jay (multiplex) for hooking me up with all the tools, time, and facilities to do all this crazy **** and PT (turbojettamk4) for helping me store and sort everything out. Secondly an employee at Jay's business, Jim, who has given advice and input based on his experience.

The Plan
The goal is to have a 8.3 - 8.4:1 CR M50 non vanos motor factory fresh or better. I already have the turbo setup alive and well, so now to extract as much power as possible I need a low compression setup that is strong and fresh.

The Parts

Con Rod Bearing Set Std
Con Rod Bolts 53mm
Flywheel Bolt 12x50mm
Main Bearing Set Std
Oil Filter Kit Mahle
Oil Pressure Switch
Piston Ring Set Std 83.98mm
Timing Chain Guide Cam to Cam
Timing Chain Guide Crank to Ex. Cam
Timing Chain Guide Lower Crank Ex. Cam
Timing Chain Lower Crankshaft to Cam
Timing Chain Upper Cam to Cam
Valve Cover Grommet
Valve Stem Seal Set 7mm
Water Pump Plastic Impeller OE
ARP M50 Head Stud Kit
ARP M50 Main Stud Kit
VAC MLS Head Gasket 0.140"
Block/Lower Engine Gasket Set
Expansion Plug 45mm Freeze Plugs
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Hole Gasket

A detailed list can be viewed at This link. (http://blowneuroz.com/525i.htm)

-- Stock balanced pistons
-- Stock balanced rods
-- Stock polished crankshaft

All parts will be bead blasted or soda blasted. Majority of external parts will be powder coated, block powder coated or painted, head left alone.

Pics

Here is the motor, a '92 Non Vanos M50 from an E34 that had been wrecked. Purchased from a friend for $250 in Connecticut. Drove up and brought her home in the back of PT's truck:

http://blowneuroz.com/newmotor/4.jpg

We took it apart the night we got it home, and noticed how clean this engine was for being 200,000 miles deep in life and how there was no damage to any components. This engine had a DIY turbo setup with a RRFPR and a T3/T04E in the former E34:

http://blowneuroz.com/newmotor/6.jpg

My parts were taken apart and stored in boxes/bags for about a 9 months - 1 year, until I could afford to start purchasing items to start rebuilding. Initially I only planned to do rings and bearings and clean up the motor somewhat. Having met up with Jay and his convincing me/demonstration of how easy powdercoating is, I went nuts and decided to powder coat anything/everything I could. Once I met Jim, a machinist at Jay's business, we went from doing a stock factory fresh rebuild to ARP head and main studs to fully balancing the bottom end to polishing the crankshaft to god knows what else will come!

The first valve cover was done in a translucent gold finish:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/candygold.jpg

It came out pretty well as you can see it looks great on the car:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/stockcops.jpg

[Jon K]

But I had already powder coated a bunch of parts for this new motor and decided to do the other valve cover in silver, to match my parts. I got carried away with powder coating and cleaning stuff but this is the end result:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/parts_coated.jpg

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/allparts.jpg

Now that school is done (never more!) I took the time to focus on this engine as I really want to make power and push the thing to the limit once I have a fall back car. I ordered all of the above parts in a couple phases, but the majority of the parts were collected about a month ago:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/rebuildparts.jpg

It was time to get serious with cleaning up the head and block so I could send them out to be machined.

We started with the cylinder head which looked like utter hell in as you can see in the very first pic in this thread, but after a couple hours of sodium blasting (again thanks to Jays having every tool under the sun), I was able to get it super clean. The only downside, I will say, to using a soda blaster is that the soda gets EVERYWHERE inside the piece. So, I have probably washed this head about... 4 - 5 times now. I am satisfied that it is clean, but yeah it's definitely annoying. Sand/bead blasting like we did with the other parts is not an option because you cannot afford to alter the finish/dimension of the combustion chamber and as I have experienced and no matter what anyone tells you, bead blasting DOES remove/alter material.

[Jon K]

The cleaned up cylinder head looks like:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/head1.jpg

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/head3.jpg

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/head4.jpg

Quite awesome if you ask me.

The head just came back from the machine shop and was confirmed flat so all they did was barely touch the surface of the head - has some nice machining in it that is sure to give a good seal. I am not sure whether or not I'll be using the copper head gasket spray but I have purchased it just in case so last minute I am not scouring trying to find something ridiculous like that.

[Jon K]

Here is the head back from the machine shop - doesn't look much different. You can see there are new valve seals installed:

excuse cell phone pics
http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain1.jpg

Today [7/7/2007] was spent up at Jay's lapping the valves into the head. I am retaining all of the original valves because they are perfectly fine and straight and just needed to be cleaned up of carbon. The intake valves were a BREEZE to clean. Brushed them right up and they came out as shiny as new. The exhaust valves, however, were very stubborn (as one can expect). We had originally tried soda blasting them and I was only marginally successful with that. I have read that you can bead blast the valve face but I don't want to risk destroying the valve surface. Wire brushed them again, and it proved to be quite adequate in cleaning. There is still some carbon on the lower stem/flute of the valve (backside) on the exhaust but it's sure to be more than fine. I couldn't justify $270 in new exhaust valves (not even including intake valves) and I have talked to many people who said using them over again is safe - if they were bent there'd be no question as to what would have to happen. I don't have the money to rock aftermarket Ferrea valves or anything like, and so the stockies will have to do - I am sure I won't be disappointed. The guides are very long and provide good wear characteristics (if any wear!) and so I am content with the valvetrain setup.

Here we are after having cleaned up the valves:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain2.jpg

You can see the exhaust valves have some discoloration of carbon that was once there - its just discoloration now. The actual carbon (chalky definite surface substance) is all gone. They are smooth to the touch and you can see the original machining grooves that are a characteristic of the surface.

After the valves were cleaned up, I lapped them into the seats using Permatex valve lapping compound - it was coarser than the Clover compound that Jay had which aided in the swiftness of completion - but was definitely not overly coarse. I read that a nice mid grade like the compound I hard purchased was the best to use and had the original valve seats been re-cut, then I should use a series of lapping compounds. Valves seat very nicely and cleanly and are sure to pose no leaks - the seats were in immaculate condition as it was based on the pics earlier in the thread.

Here are the valve seat surfaces after being lapped:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain3.jpg

Shitty cell pic, but you can see the discolored flute of the valve, then a grey surface, and then a discolored section again. The grey section is where the valve seat meats the valve and the compound is sandwiched between two said surfaces. Jay was pointing out, and I agree, it looks as though the factory did a really good job designing the head - the valve seat area is quite wide and I have seen some VW and Honda heads which do not have nearly as much valve seat area.

After lapping everything we cleaned the head in a parts washer and washed all the valves off to insure no compound was left over. Cleanliness is godliness they say. We were going to install the valvetrain but realized that a member on the forum has Jay's cam/valve install tool so we have to wait. No big deal.

Current progress on the block is that it is still at the machine shop being wrapped up sometime early this next work week we think. The rods will be balanced to one another and the crank polished/oil orifice polished so as to insure clean running through new bearings.

I will update this very thread with more information once I have stuff to post :)

[Macv]

You're my idol.

I hope to have this much knowledge for engines by the time I get through this college deal.

[Sidney Rough-Diamond]

Nice attention to detial in that build - love the silver coated engine parts. I did the exhaust valves of another BMW head in a pillar drill. Some strips of emery cloth in various grades and you can polish them as new. I taped where the valve stem enters the valve guide so as not to go above this ( although you can see this because of the carbon build-up ) and also protected the valve seat area,even though they would be re-cut later.
I've no idea if this is a pretty hack way of doing this ,but it worked for me. I would say though if you are not recutting the valves,maybe steer clear or be VERY carefull as its easy to slip and mark the seat area.
Another helpful hint is using Gunk brand brake cleaner (non chlorinated)for the exhaust ports. On my alloy head it stripped the carbon off with no effort at all - great stuff.

http://www.superkleendirect.com/ProductImages/radiator/thumb_M715.jpg

[BigKriss]

awesome writeup Jon!

[mikell]

Eagerly awaiting the next exciting episode. Great going, Jon.

[Jon K]

Nice attention to detial in that build - love the silver coated engine parts. I did the exhaust valves of another BMW head in a pillar drill. Some strips of emery cloth in various grades and you can polish them as new. I taped where the valve stem enters the valve guide so as not to go above this ( although you can see this because of the carbon build-up ) and also protected the valve seat area,even though they would be re-cut later.
I've no idea if this is a pretty hack way of doing this ,but it worked for me. I would say though if you are not recutting the valves,maybe steer clear or be VERY carefull as its easy to slip and mark the seat area.
Another helpful hint is using Gunk brand brake cleaner (non chlorinated)for the exhaust ports. On my alloy head it stripped the carbon off with no effort at all - great stuff.

http://www.superkleendirect.com/ProductImages/radiator/thumb_M715.jpg


Thanks for the suggestion - I lapped the valves in and the carbon on the backside of the exhaust valves doesn't really concern me much. I sodium blasted the head, so my exhaust ports are well... check them out:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/head2.jpg

I was going to soak the valves in brake cleaner or something, would that remove the carbon from the backsides of the exhaust valves? The intakes are perfect!

[winfred]

i have the head on mine, probably would of finished it yesterday had i not take off to go play with diesels, last weekend i built a cam sensor for future potential upgrades before i installed the head
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/block%20studs.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor1.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor2.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor5.JPG

[winfred]

http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor7.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor%20magnet.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor%20test1.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/26/427251/m20b28/cam%20sensor%20test2.JPG

[Jon K]

Hall effect, nice. Sequential M20, that'd be interesting. Thing is they only have sequential ignition, so you'd have to switch to coil on or coil near plug. I hear LS1 coils work good on the M20.

[winfred]

i figured if i didn't do it now id never get around to it, so i have something to play with when they get the timer board on the market for ms


Hall effect, nice. Sequential M20, that'd be interesting. Thing is they only have sequential ignition, so you'd have to switch to coil on or coil near plug. I hear LS1 coils work good on the M20.

[Sidney Rough-Diamond]

That brand of brake cleaner isn't in the UK as far as I know. A friend in the USAF, here in the UK, was using it on the exhaust ports of his head and carbon just fell away...Needless to say I got a box of the air base:)
I've not used it on exhaust valves, it might help, but on the head I did, even emery cloth had a hard time of grinding away the carbon. The build-up on the base of the valve could have been measured in mm ,it was that thick. Yours look nothing like as bad. Good job on the rest of the head.

[Bill R.]

jon,the seats aren't supposed to be wide.... a wide seat loses performance and is more likely to get carboned up and lose its seal.. the factory spec as seen here is a maximum of .075 thousandths at the valve seat in the head. Thats why you grind the other 2 angles on the seat. The bottom angle narrows the seat up and moves the seating area to the outer portion of the valve surface. The top angle cutter narrows the seat and moves the seating area in towards the middle of the valve surface... thats the whole point in doing a valve job on a head , to get the seats nice and precise and located correctly on the valve face... here are the specs for the seat angles and widths on the m50





Here is the head back from the machine shop - doesn't look much different. You can see there are new valve seals installed:

excuse cell phone pics
http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain1.jpg

Today [7/7/2007] was spent up at Jay's lapping the valves into the head. I am retaining all of the original valves because they are perfectly fine and straight and just needed to be cleaned up of carbon. The intake valves were a BREEZE to clean. Brushed them right up and they came out as shiny as new. The exhaust valves, however, were very stubborn (as one can expect). We had originally tried soda blasting them and I was only marginally successful with that. I have read that you can bead blast the valve face but I don't want to risk destroying the valve surface. Wire brushed them again, and it proved to be quite adequate in cleaning. There is still some carbon on the lower stem/flute of the valve (backside) on the exhaust but it's sure to be more than fine. I couldn't justify $270 in new exhaust valves (not even including intake valves) and I have talked to many people who said using them over again is safe - if they were bent there'd be no question as to what would have to happen. I don't have the money to rock aftermarket Ferrea valves or anything like, and so the stockies will have to do - I am sure I won't be disappointed. The guides are very long and provide good wear characteristics (if any wear!) and so I am content with the valvetrain setup.

Here we are after having cleaned up the valves:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain2.jpg

You can see the exhaust valves have some discoloration of carbon that was once there - its just discoloration now. The actual carbon (chalky definite surface substance) is all gone. They are smooth to the touch and you can see the original machining grooves that are a characteristic of the surface.

After the valves were cleaned up, I lapped them into the seats using Permatex valve lapping compound - it was coarser than the Clover compound that Jay had which aided in the swiftness of completion - but was definitely not overly coarse. I read that a nice mid grade like the compound I hard purchased was the best to use and had the original valve seats been re-cut, then I should use a series of lapping compounds. Valves seat very nicely and cleanly and are sure to pose no leaks - the seats were in immaculate condition as it was based on the pics earlier in the thread.

Here are the valve seat surfaces after being lapped:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain3.jpg

Shitty cell pic, but you can see the discolored flute of the valve, then a grey surface, and then a discolored section again. The grey section is where the valve seat meats the valve and the compound is sandwiched between two said surfaces. Jay was pointing out, and I agree, it looks as though the factory did a really good job designing the head - the valve seat area is quite wide and I have seen some VW and Honda heads which do not have nearly as much valve seat area.

After lapping everything we cleaned the head in a parts washer and washed all the valves off to insure no compound was left over. Cleanliness is godliness they say. We were going to install the valvetrain but realized that a member on the forum has Jay's cam/valve install tool so we have to wait. No big deal.

Current progress on the block is that it is still at the machine shop being wrapped up sometime early this next work week we think. The rods will be balanced to one another and the crank polished/oil orifice polished so as to insure clean running through new bearings.

I will update this very thread with more information once I have stuff to post :)

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Must be your step father's

cha ching!



Here is the head back from the machine shop - doesn't look much different. You can see there are new valve seals installed:

excuse cell phone pics
http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain1.jpg

Today [7/7/2007] was spent up at Jay's lapping the valves into the head. I am retaining all of the original valves because they are perfectly fine and straight and just needed to be cleaned up of carbon. The intake valves were a BREEZE to clean. Brushed them right up and they came out as shiny as new. The exhaust valves, however, were very stubborn (as one can expect). We had originally tried soda blasting them and I was only marginally successful with that. I have read that you can bead blast the valve face but I don't want to risk destroying the valve surface. Wire brushed them again, and it proved to be quite adequate in cleaning. There is still some carbon on the lower stem/flute of the valve (backside) on the exhaust but it's sure to be more than fine. I couldn't justify $270 in new exhaust valves (not even including intake valves) and I have talked to many people who said using them over again is safe - if they were bent there'd be no question as to what would have to happen. I don't have the money to rock aftermarket Ferrea valves or anything like, and so the stockies will have to do - I am sure I won't be disappointed. The guides are very long and provide good wear characteristics (if any wear!) and so I am content with the valvetrain setup.

Here we are after having cleaned up the valves:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain2.jpg

You can see the exhaust valves have some discoloration of carbon that was once there - its just discoloration now. The actual carbon (chalky definite surface substance) is all gone. They are smooth to the touch and you can see the original machining grooves that are a characteristic of the surface.

After the valves were cleaned up, I lapped them into the seats using Permatex valve lapping compound - it was coarser than the Clover compound that Jay had which aided in the swiftness of completion - but was definitely not overly coarse. I read that a nice mid grade like the compound I hard purchased was the best to use and had the original valve seats been re-cut, then I should use a series of lapping compounds. Valves seat very nicely and cleanly and are sure to pose no leaks - the seats were in immaculate condition as it was based on the pics earlier in the thread.

Here are the valve seat surfaces after being lapped:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/valvetrain3.jpg

Shitty cell pic, but you can see the discolored flute of the valve, then a grey surface, and then a discolored section again. The grey section is where the valve seat meats the valve and the compound is sandwiched between two said surfaces. Jay was pointing out, and I agree, it looks as though the factory did a really good job designing the head - the valve seat area is quite wide and I have seen some VW and Honda heads which do not have nearly as much valve seat area.

After lapping everything we cleaned the head in a parts washer and washed all the valves off to insure no compound was left over. Cleanliness is godliness they say. We were going to install the valvetrain but realized that a member on the forum has Jay's cam/valve install tool so we have to wait. No big deal.

Current progress on the block is that it is still at the machine shop being wrapped up sometime early this next work week we think. The rods will be balanced to one another and the crank polished/oil orifice polished so as to insure clean running through new bearings.

I will update this very thread with more information once I have stuff to post :)

[Jon K]

Haha ... my wallet...?

[Booster]

( not on my M50) ....but on all my Nissan performance heads, I chuck the valve stems up in the drill press carefully with a paper sleeve, and "Unshroud the valve" for better flow.Pretty easy to do with a good eye,really.Nows the time to do it. Supposidly it helps with atomization and back pressures.
Lookin great Jon........Definitely go with the Coppper gasket spray.
Post a pic of your turbo oil drain location on the pan,good sir.
Vinny

[Jon K]

Dropping it in as soon as possible!

Update time!

I just got back from Jay's to pay da' man. Motor looks really good - completely degreased via hot tank and such. Crank is cleaned up and Jim is going to polish the oil journals at assembly time - Jim is offering to put it together and he's experienced so I am going to go ahead and have him do it. I will be stopping by to check out what gets done, so once I start phase 2 (or 3?) of my car I can have an idea of good practice.

Anyway, here are the pics:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/crank.jpg

Crankshaft is all cleaned up/polished - jim is going to polish the oil journals even more to insure no catching on the new bearings.

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/block.jpg

Block after hot tank and hone (stock hone for 84mm pistons) - will be powdercoated a high shine/bright silver.

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/rod.jpg

Rods, dynamically balanced to one another both ends with pins, to insure correct bob weights and all

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/piston.jpg

Pistons all balanced in and soda blasted clean of 200k miles of carbon - check out the condition! (the dirty spots are from letting the piston air dry from being washed with water - going to clean again jays part washer rather than water).

That's the update!

[Booster]

Beauty ! Are you having the pistons Swain coated ?Or something sim.? Please say yes.lol.;)
Vinny

[Jon K]

I don't think so - I just ordered some ceramic "ceramakrome" for the turbo housing and stuff but I am too newb to feel comfortable coating internal parts. Granted, it looks extremely easy.

[Booster]

I don't think so - I just ordered some ceramic "ceramakrome" for the turbo housing and stuff but I am too newb to feel comfortable coating internal parts. Granted, it looks extremely easy.

Send those pistons off to Swain Jon !(http://www.swaintech.com/)....It'll be money well spent !! That coating will save your ring lands from any unheard detonation/knock.Not to mention the pocking occurrences on the piston dish/valve reliefs.Not a coating you do at home in the oven my friend. They do several heat cycles upwards of 2000 degrees.It works wonders. It only takes one cracked ring to wipe you out.:(
Just looking out for you bro' !
Vinny

[Jon K]

Send those pistons off to Swain Jon !(http://www.swaintech.com/)....It'll be money well spent !! That coating will save your ring lands from any unheard detonation/knock.Not to mention the pocking occurrences on the piston dish/valve reliefs.Not a coating you do at home in the oven my friend. They do several heat cycles upwards of 2000 degrees.It works wonders. It only takes one cracked ring to wipe you out.:(
Just looking out for you bro' !
Vinny


I hear you - but honestly it's not worth it on stock pistons. If I blow up a stock piston, I'll drop the money and get forged and then think about it.

The thing about SwainTech is that they use the same ceramic coating that I just ordered (i didn't order the internals formula obviously) -- TechLineCoatings.com is their source.

When I said oven... I meant oven. I have access to crazy **** over at my friends shop.

[Booster]

I hear you - but honestly it's not worth it on stock pistons. If I blow up a stock piston, I'll drop the money and get forged and then think about it.

The thing about SwainTech is that they use the same ceramic coating that I just ordered (i didn't order the internals formula obviously) -- TechLineCoatings.com is their source.

When I said oven... I meant oven. I have access to crazy **** over at my friends shop.


Ok,ok.....you know what your doing. I knew this.Forged pistons are simply denser than cast. The Swain surface replicates this on a permeate layer.Thats all. Buts thats all you really need for under 25lbs of boost. But I have a feeling thats going to be your starting point,hehehe:p
Your going to need some 285 DR's on that thing real soon my son !
Vinny

[Jon K]

Ok,ok.....you know what your doing. I knew this.Forged pistons are simply denser than cast. The Swain surface replicates this on a permeate layer.Thats all. Buts thats all you really need for under 25lbs of boost. But I have a feeling thats going to be your starting point,hehehe:p
Your going to need some 285 DR's on that thing real soon my son !
Vinny


Hah yeah I am going to try and keep my tires planted (luckily the large turbo has lag!) on the street. I think on the track, once I get into that, I am skipping right over DR's and going M/T's

[nizmainiac]

thats a good write up jon, keep it up mate

[Jon K]

thats a good write up jon, keep it up mate

Thanks man. Stay tuned.

[nizmainiac]

will do jon, i'm quite interested in what winfred is doing to that m20 lump aswell

[mamilapon]

:p Jon, my respect and admiration for your patience and expertise has grown even more. I just hope this never turns into an uncontrolable lust.

[Jon K]

I just hope this never turns into an uncontrolable lust.
Too late!

[Booster]

Too late!

Oh yeah ! He's got the boost intravenous needle right IN his arm !:p There's No turning back for him and he knows it too.:D
Vinny

[M20Turbo]

Nice job Jon! I enjoy your write ups/pics

[Jon K]

Oh yeah ! He's got the boost intravenous needle right IN his arm !:p There's No turning back for him and he knows it too.:D
Vinny

Vinny - guess what... ordered the ceramic coat for pistons haha. Techline CBC1 piston coating - spray 0.0015" (basically they say as soon as you can see solid color, you're done) and bake @ 300F for 1 hour. That will protect the piston a lot, you're right and I figure for $35 for materials I will probably go up next weekend and ceramic cote my pistons and maybe my turbo housing in the same day, we'll see!


M20Turbo - thanks man.

[Scott C]

Vinny - guess what... ordered the ceramic coat for pistons haha. Techline CBC1 piston coating - spray 0.0015" (basically they say as soon as you can see solid color, you're done) and bake @ 300F for 1 hour. That will protect the piston a lot, you're right and I figure for $35 for materials I will probably go up next weekend and ceramic cote my pistons and maybe my turbo housing in the same day, we'll see!


M20Turbo - thanks man.

Jon,
Your about 30 years younger than me but I like your toys... Can you adopt me? ;)

[Jon K]

Haha yeah I am not ready for an adopted........father? But thanks, With a first gen RX-7 sounds like you've got your fair share of toys! Swap a 13b from a T2 2nd gen and you'd be having some fun!

[winfred]

i always lusted for a 3rd gen tt when i had my 1st gen. got my long block buttoned up but i forgot my camera so yall gotta wait to see the snazzy valve cover i painted :D, trying to decide if i wanna subject it to motronic or get the squirt going then drop it in, the bitch is it takes so damn long for the wot map to get right with my 19# injectors, took almost a month for it to be just about as good as it can get the last time i killed power and douched the memory, i am thinking about dropping it in and letting the bosch figure it out and then i can read it with my scanner and maybe use that as a starting point for da squirt, curious to see how the 2.8 stroker and 280 cam will effect the readings, and rear tire life http://members.cox.net/wdixon27/rockin.gif http://members.cox.net/wdixon27/burnout.gif


Haha yeah I am not ready for an adopted........father? But thanks, With a first gen RX-7 sounds like you've got your fair share of toys! Swap a 13b from a T2 2nd gen and you'd be having some fun!

[Jon K]

Missed your post winfred - yo you need to check out megalogviewer - you auto tune your cruise map and load your WOT region a little richer than you anticipate needing. Datalog, and send the log file and the MSQ setup file through MegaLogViewer, it uses a "VE Analyzer" and tunes your whole map to match up with your target AFR table! Its very very very cool and works very well. I had my fueling down in about 45 mins using this method.



Anyway, update time!

The pistons are now ceramic coated with TechLine Cerakote CBC1 coating - was fairly painless, though
getting it to spray through one of various guns was a challenge. One piston was either not aluminum oxide
blasted enough or had some oil still on it, and it had a small spot that bubbled, and is going to be re-coated.
Otherwise, they came out real well!


They had a slight little "lip" to the finish since they were masked then sprayed. Using a yellow scotchguard pad, the lip is
easily removed with very little rubbing (it isn't bonded to metal so it moves from the object).
Here is a pic with slight lip:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/pistoncoated_small.jpg

All cleaned up:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E34%20525i%20Motor%20Build/pistons_coated.jpg

[winfred]

that was pretty much what i thought, let it tune itself. i would of possibly gotten my motor in today had i not gone to the autocross, the m-coupe 5 lug suspension/brakes swap did fairly good but i need to ditch a little understeer, using the brakes so much to rotate the car it was killing my times, the fast car was a nice evo 8 at around 41 seconds, my best was 52, i need to figure out which end needs stiffening to dial out the understeer


Missed your post winfred - yo you need to check out megalogviewer - you auto tune your cruise map and load your WOT region a little richer than you anticipate needing. Datalog, and send the log file and the MSQ setup file through MegaLogViewer, it uses a "VE Analyzer" and tunes your whole map to match up with your target AFR table! Its very very very cool and works very well. I had my fueling down in about 45 mins using this method.

[Jon K]

that was pretty much what i thought, let it tune itself. i would of possibly gotten my motor in today had i not gone to the autocross, the m-coupe 5 lug suspension/brakes swap did fairly good but i need to ditch a little understeer, using the brakes so much to rotate the car it was killing my times, the fast car was a nice evo 8 at around 41 seconds, my best was 52, i need to figure out which end needs stiffening to dial out the understeer

Put a fatter bar in the back or loosen the front should make the back come around much more predictably.

[Dr. evil]

awsome build

i was just wondering if the coating on the pistons added any substantial weight?

[Jon K]

No the coating doesn't add any substantial weight - obviously it adds weight in theory, but its applied so very very thin, its sprayed just thick enough to cover the surface and is water based, so its not very much at all. I think it took < 1/2 oz to do these 6 pistons.

[Booster]

Vinny - guess what... ordered the ceramic coat for pistons haha. Techline CBC1 piston coating - spray 0.0015" (basically they say as soon as you can see solid color, you're done) and bake @ 300F for 1 hour. That will protect the piston a lot, you're right and I figure for $35 for materials I will probably go up next weekend and ceramic cote my pistons and maybe my turbo housing in the same day, we'll see!


M20Turbo - thanks man.

Well done Mr. K !;) I had a feeling it would make sense to you. Smart move IMHO.
Vinny

[Jon K]

Well done Mr. K !;) I had a feeling it would make sense to you. Smart move IMHO.
Vinny
Yeah the pistons are coated on the tops and yet again, I gave in to my desires and am ordering the dry film coating for the piston skirts. argh, this is never going to end!

[Booster]

Yeah the pistons are coated on the tops and yet again, I gave in to my desires and am ordering the dry film coating for the piston skirts. argh, this is never going to end!

Don't feel that way Jon, your so close you should be able to taste the boost your going to make !:p
Vinny

[Jon K]

I know I know,

and now I landed a job, so I was thinking of all the crazy **** I could do that I wanted, but I think I am going to follow through with this motor and ride it for a while. Hopefully in the spring I'll be looking at S38s. I think I have arranged to get my mothers Land Rover as a daily to work which is only 5 - 6 miles from home, so this thing has the potential now to be wicked.

[Booster]

I know I know,

and now I landed a job, so I was thinking of all the crazy **** I could do that I wanted, but I think I am going to follow through with this motor and ride it for a while. Hopefully in the spring I'll be looking at S38s. I think I have arranged to get my mothers Land Rover as a daily to work which is only 5 - 6 miles from home, so this thing has the potential now to be wicked.

Yes,right on.........satisfaction of completion is the BEST!! You'll be more apt to attack things appropriatly later on when the job money is more plentiful as opposed to just throwing cash out at the first things you want.