Failed attempt at replacing control and thrust arms.......gutted!

[leicesterboy15]

After weeks of shitting myself about getting the car up on axle stands and weeks of sourcing parts and acquiring tools for the job, I finally got the car up today on stands to replace the front suspension arms. Getting the car up was easy, bit nerve racking but easy nonetheless. I thought great now comes the easy bit! Ha! I read all the write ups and I couldn't release a single bolt!

I bit the bullet and went to halfrauds for some more tools and I got the stabiliser links off relatively easily with a 16mm box wrench, not 17mm as in some write ups (?), one of the bolts was so rusted it took a lot of perseverance to get off but I changed both sides without too much bother.

Next the arms! I couldn't find a spanner / wrench or anything else that would even get close to the nut on the thrust arm as the chassis gets in the way and I couldn't shift the bolt so I thought I'd try the control arms. The 3 bolts on the steering mounting plate were impossible! I ripped a socket adapter clean in half trying to move one of these and it still didn't move. So I had the car up on the stands all day and only managed to change the sway bar links! I was worried that I could apply too much pressure and dislodge the car from the stands (even though they never moved and looked solid) so maybe this was a contributing factor - I guess this is where experience prevails, even so I did use quite a lot of force.

Some of you reading this will be laughing in disbelief but I'm not afraid to admit it, it got the better of me, I am pissed off though, I thought this would be it - no more having to stick to 50 mph - the car shakes so violently i'd rather not take the chance to drive out of it incase something else goes wrong. it is incredibly frustrating having to drive a 4 litre V8 at no more than 50 mph, especially as it gets there so quickly!! I have some pics of the problem areas but I haven't downloaded them yet. The wobble is much worse on a set of 18in (straight) wheels than on a set of 17s.

I guess this post is partly for you mechanics to have a laugh, partly to vent my frustration and disappointment that I haven't got my car back and after weeks of prep for it not to happen but also for any tips or tricks / tools to use to get this job done in the reported 2hrs per side!

I am gutted that I haven't sorted this at this visit and even more so that I might have to give in and take it to a garage.

Any tips on axle stands, tools, technique, procedure are greatly appreciated. By the way I used loads of penetrating fluid, in fact if you bought shares in wd40 yesterday you're probably loaded today as I must have singlehandedly gone through a years production.

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Take it to Kwik-fit and ask them to loosen the bolts with an air wrench, spray them and re-tighten, end of problem. Failing that buy a snap-on 18v impact wrench and do lots of stuff with it.

[Zeuk in Oz]

Cheer up, we all have these problems from time to time.

At least you got the sway bar links done ! That's a positive achievement. :)

I find that some sort of extension on my socket spanner gives me more leverage and allows a better chance of success at loosening badly stuck nuts & bolts.

Keep going - you'll get there and will learn lots from it.

BTW, have you any mates that can give you a hand - I always find 2 heads are better than 1.

[Evan]

dude you're halfway done... go introduce yourself to a thick steak, a few pints of guiness, and a lady or two... then sleep eight hours. resume work in the morning

[Jon K]

No offense if getting it in the air was nerve wracking wait until you try to seperate the ball joints...

[pingu]

On the plus side, you didn't hurt yourself (other than a few scraped knuclkes?).

[repenttokyo]

socket adapters always break. you need to get a driver that is the correct size for the socket.

[BigKriss]

i did the control/thrust arms recnetly. try a impact socket, breaker bar then a bar over that. it worked for me for the 3 bolts on the bottom of the strut.

the thrust arm nut takes a 22mm wrench - easy and a 22mm socket on the bolts head

[e34.535i.sport]

Hey, it took me over a week to change a subframe bushing... I know how you're feeling - I persevered (the hours of labour went into high 20's) and eventually got it done. I learnt so much from that i got the second one in within 15 minutes!!!!!! The worst part was my girlfriend had to drop me off at work all week and pick me up!

I also encountered problems when doing the fuel filter recently because of rusty hardware, I hate it! Just remember, once you get the rusty bolts off its probably best to change them - much easier next time!

Keep going and never give up! Its worth it!

[leicesterboy15]

Thanks for the encouragement, Usually I just persevere and get the job done, the last major job was the intake gaskets and PCV plate, I just kept plugging away and after a 6 hour dismantle job, i got it all back together in about 30 minutes. I guess I'm worried about the car falling off its stands if I apply too much pressure, is this a real concern is it very unlikely given the weights etc involved?

What is an impact socket and whats the difference between this and a normal socket? I guess I just need to buy a 22mm spanner that fits the gap for the thrust arm and get some more torque on the steering plate bolts. I like the idea of a power tool though - always the way forward, I think I read up on whats available.

I can't believe nobody else has had this problem? All the write ups on the job and everyone who has done it seems to find it easy. Technically its not hard, its just a few bolts but logistically its a nightmare.

I think I will plug away at it rather than take it to a garage. Yes and on the plus side I have no major injuries, no expensive accidents and new sway bar links.

[BigKriss]

buy some power tools, and an air compressor. that will make it a lot easier and faster

[yaofeng]

As someone else pointed out, an air compressor and impact tools are what you need. You'll say to yourself after using them, why didn't I get these tools sooner?

[Ferret]

Buy yourself a large breaker bar, the impact version of the socket - and break the bottom strut bolts while the car's not on stands.

IE crawl under the front of the car while its got all four wheels on the deck and spin each of the big bolts out, then re-tighten to a much lesser degree.

If your breaker bar is long enough, you wont even really need to do much crawling around under the car :D

I've just changed my LCAs this weekend and ended up being really bad, dremelled the nuts off the ball joint ends :)

[Ross]

Crawling around on your back trying to do heavy work certainly sucks. I'm a veteran of primative working conditions.
I'm hoping your jacking situation is stable since you expressed concern.
Having it high up helps as does your friend Mr. Leverage. If you're on a creeper forget having any pulling power against large fasteners.
High up, long bar for leverage and quality tools for tight fasteners. Also remember your legs are a bunch stronger than your arms, don't be afraid to use 'em.

[leicesterboy15]

What a fcuking muppet, of course! loosen the nuts when they are not on the stands, what happened to common sense! Its so simple really, I got so bogged down with the job at hand I didn't take a step back and ponder.

I can't really justify an air compressor and air tools for the amount I would use it but I will definitely investigate the 18/24v Impact Wrench.

This has given me new enthusiasm for the job, I'm still concerned about the thrust arm bolt though, I presume you hold the nut with a spanner that fits the gap and use the wrench on the bolt? This would mean that you would need to torque the bolt instead of the nut as the torque wrench can't access the nut?

Think I'm gonna get a couple of mates round this weekend and exchange a few beers for some assistance, I've got ramps so I'll get the car on to ramps and try to loosen all the bolts before putting it up on the jack stands.

[Ross]

Although the cordless impact is going to be handy to have it wont help you on the really heavy stuff like suspension.

[whiskychaser]

[QUOTE=leicesterboy15]I'm still concerned about the thrust arm bolt though, I presume you hold the nut with a spanner that fits the gap and use the wrench on the bolt? This would mean that you would need to torque the bolt instead of the nut as the torque wrench can't access the nut?
QUOTE]
I'm not clear which nut/bolt you mean. I would be working with 1/2" drive sockets and a 2ft breaker bar. I also have a selection of gas pipes of various lengths that I slide over the end to give extra leverage. I've had enough bolts break that I dont worry any more:)

[632 Regal]

alrighty, most things have been covered and I know exactly the nut your talking about. First time I did the arms I ended up dropping the cross section to get the the nuts so I could get a wrench on it...took forever. Last time I changed the arms the only time I went under the car at all was to torque the bushing ends properly when done. I did all the work through the fenderwell. Think about things before going back under there.

You will need to grind a wrench to fit between the floor and the bolt (trick 1)

You need a breaker bar to crack the bolts lose (as mentioned) 1/2 drive minimum. (air tools required)

Good luck seperating the ball joints (as mentioned) Bill R unbolts all the arms and pounds the ball joints on the floor or work bench (trick?) first time I needed to use my acetaline torch to heat the knuckle to pop the joints.

If you are questioning the stands than they either are not placed good or are bad quality. I would never be pulling hard with any car on stands, thus the need for an impact...unless you use Bill Rs method.

You need to remove the sway bar links to do the arms ;)

Good luck, it is do-able but a bit frustrating the first time.

[Ross]

Am I the only guy here that uses a pickle fork on the ball joints?
The whole arm doesn't cost a lot and saves the misery of pressing in a bushing. The ball joint is ostensibly as old as the bushing which is likely while you're there to begin with.
F the boot and the ball joint. Buy the whole arm, wedge a pickle fork in there and whack it HARD with a BFH, done.

[leicesterboy15]

Thanks Jeff and everyone for all your help. I still don't get how I'm supposed to torque the bolt up after the job is done, maybe I'm being stupid, I'll get the car on ramps tonight and have a good look. For anyone who can't picture which bolt I'm on about I've added some pics - sorry about the quality, crappy camera phone:
Car on Stands
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/My%20Stuff/IMAGE_00025.jpg

This is the nut on the left with the bolt on the right going through the bush/arm and cross section(?).
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/My%20Stuff/IMAGE_00026.jpg

This is a closer look at the nut, you can see how tight it is in there.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/My%20Stuff/IMAGE_00027.jpg

As for the steering plate bolts I've roped in some help for this weekend and been assured that these bolts are not coming off due to my lack of experience and my over caution.

[yaofeng]

One option is to drop the sway bar, drop the cross member, remove the brackets under the struts, remove the wishbone to remove every connecting part as a unit to do it on the bench.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_525i/DSC_1543.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_525i/DSC_1542.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b274/yaofengchen/BMW_95_525i/DSC_1541.jpg

[BigKriss]

Yep I can fit a 22mm wrench in there, no worries at all



http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/My%20Stuff/IMAGE_00027.jpg

As for the steering plate bolts I've roped in some help for this weekend and been assured that these bolts are not coming off due to my lack of experience and my over caution.

[leicesterboy15]

Its like one big meccano set!

[Evan]

This is what I did...


remove the sway bar and crossmember...