bushings question

[infurno]

I ordered upper and lower control arms from bavauto with stock bushings and they just came in today. Everything looks great. I received both lower control arms, upper control arms, and also two extra bushings!

I did not order any additional bushings, and the control arms came with a (green) set already installed.
here is the exact part I ordered: 31 12 1 141097B
the boxes were labeled as: Meyle Products

The extra bushings are in separate bags labeled as
"31 12 139 456 CNTRL ARM-BRUSH-E32, E34"
They are a pale yellow color.

I found this part listed on bavauto site labled as
"Upper Control Arm Bushing - stock type - sold individually"

This is what I thought I had ordered, but the green ones already installed are not only a different color but also look very different (actually look better built). There are a few sets of numbers embossed, i'll try to copy them here as best as I can.

on the green plastic in the center
0211385
1136 606

on the rubber
300 311 2103/HD
A65-4

I understand that this information may be just serial numbers and of no help but I figure it may have a clue.

The pale yellow ones don't have much written on them besides a few symbols

My question is... Which is the better set? The stock type pale yellow, or the installed green ones?

[mamilapon]

When I ordered my bushings, I specifically requested 750i bushings and the guy said that The green center bushings were the 750I ones so I reckon thats what youve got.

[Tiger]

Green is 750iL bushing.

[leicesterboy15]

what colour are the 540i bushings? I thought they were green as well?

[Tiger]

I think they are yellow... No... Green is 750iL bushings. I remembered when I had it first changed out... the original was not green.

[infurno]

I did get the bolt off the bushing.

Having a really hard time getting the bolts holding the strut assembly off. I got one off, the others wont budge with the air tool at 100 psi. 90 is the limit on this one and i dont want to push it much over 100. Have been soaking it in PB Blaster since yesterday. Just broke a wrench pulling on it.

I really thought i could do this myself, i think i made a mistake trying.

If i don't make some progress soon im going to just take it to a shop or leave the old parts on till next weekend.

:(

[infurno]

*pant* *pant*
5 hours of work, 3 broken tools, 4 bolts off.. still cant get the two bolts off the shock. starting to strip the heads.

ready to try explosives

[BuckNaked]

Have you tried heat?

[632 Regal]

what 2 bolts??? or you mean 2 of the 3 on the steering knuckle? If so I had a tight fitting 6 point impact socket that I ground flat (for more grip area) put the 1/2" drive ratchet on it and added about 3 foot of pipe and they turned right out.

your getting there... more beer ;)


*pant* *pant*
5 hours of work, 3 broken tools, 4 bolts off.. still cant get the two bolts off the shock. starting to strip the heads.

ready to try explosives

[markus]

PB blaster and a long ratchet will take those suckers out. this job inst hard but it is time consuming. the worst part is getting those damn balljoints out.

[infurno]

Have you tried heat?

I have read that heat should only be used as a last resort, because it weakens the metal and makes it easier to break. i still have more tools left.

i do have a torch handy, but since its on the strut and the break system is right next to it im hesitant to consider heat.

Good news is that im not bleeding yet. Im just not sure what to try next. Going to keep cursing and soaking it in pb blaster

[infurno]

what 2 bolts??? or you mean 2 of the 3 on the steering knuckle? If so I had a tight fitting 6 point impact socket that I ground flat (for more grip area) put the 1/2" drive ratchet on it and added about 3 foot of pipe and they turned right out.

your getting there... more beer ;)

Yeah the two of the three on the knuckle. One came off without any trouble at all, first one I tried. I even got the throttle arm brushing disconnected without much trouble.


PB blaster and a long ratchet will take those suckers out. this job inst hard but it is time consuming. the worst part is getting those damn balljoints out.

The joints on my ratchet ends/extensions keep breaking. Having to use the largest size type, and they are harder to fit into that space. Considering taking more of the break assembly apart, especially that damn metal shield like thing on the knuckle side.

[Tiger]

You need one of this...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944202000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_SessionID=@@@@2032489066.1186181091@@@@&BV_EngineID=cchcaddljdlddkdcefecemldffidfmm.0

I had mine since like 90... Nothing is impossible. On your air gun... did you set to maximum power on the dial? Did you use pneumatic oil to lube it before rattling away?

[infurno]

finally, they came off with the air gun at 120 psi.

Lot of bad news under the car... The knuckle connects with the lower control arm, the upper control arm, and some other ball joint part. This part looks like its in pretty bad shape, the rubber is almost gone and the ball joint moves freely with almost no resistance on both ends.

Could someone name this other part?
Its an arm and has a threaded part. I guess I will take a picture if I have to.

[infurno]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HC13&mospid=47402&btnr=32_0336&hg=32&fg=25

Kind of hard for me to identify it from this diagram. I think its the "right tie rod arm"?
Its in the middle of #8,#5,#3

[Macv]

You need one of this...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfmm.0



Or find a pipe and hammer one opening into an oval. A cheap persuader.

[infurno]

Thought maybe someone would be interested to see the carnage:

http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/1.jpg
http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/2.jpg
http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/3.jpg

[infurno]

http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/4.jpg
http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/5.jpg
http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/6.jpg

[infurno]

A while back I ordered some rods for my 1984 E28 533i and never installed them. I think they look identical!

http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/7.jpg
http://www.buysmartpc.com/carnage/8.jpg

Im going to look through my receipts to try and find a part number to make sure it would be compatible.

[Tiger]

Yes, It is exact same part... look it up on bmaparts.com... it comes up exactly the same. Look, do yourself a favor... change the whole entire steering out. It is not much money and you are good for next 100,000 miles.

[infurno]

Yes, It is exact same part... look it up on bmaparts.com... it comes up exactly the same. Look, do yourself a favor... change the whole entire steering out. It is not much money and you are good for next 100,000 miles.

Im really tempted to do so, but honistly this repair has run me dry on cash. I will return in two weeks or so to replace anything else I can get to.

Thats not everything... My struts have some kind of black residue on the shiny shock part, i think they are nearly gone. I was also told I need new parts on my back end suspension too.

[632 Regal]

your there and made it!!! Congrats! After your all done with the arms and want to do the complete steering linkages I have some hints so that you will be almost dead on alignment after doing it. Mine was off on 1 wheel .06 of a degree :D

[infurno]

your there and made it!!! Congrats! After your all done with the arms and want to do the complete steering linkages I have some hints so that you will be almost dead on alignment after doing it. Mine was off on 1 wheel .06 of a degree :D

Awesome I would really appreciate any advice :D

[infurno]

well I completely finished that side today, and now working on the drivers side.

Everything came apart in about 5 min except for one bolt which is now nearly stripped. The 3/8 socket (that I thought was right) I have been using is now just slipping. Im on my way to buy a new set of metric sockets but I think I have finally been defeated. Its a bolt on the strut again, refusing to budge.

I think I need a 19mm, hope the new set of sockets will be able to free it. If not, looks like ill only have one side done till I can have a professional free the bolt.

edit: i mean 3/4

[infurno]

nothing, just can't get it out. Any socket that gets a grip has the inside teeth quickly stripped. Tomorrow im going to remove the breaks and start heating it up with an oxy-acetylene torch.

Meanwhile, could anybody recommend a shop that could remove this damn bolt? BMW dealership, sears? ... walmart?

[genphreak]

You're learning

One of the first rules of working on a BMW;

Rule No 1, use the right tool.

Rule No. 2, refer rule no. 1 (check that it is metric too)

Rule No. 3, expect nuts and bolts to be chemically seized (be ready to pt much more on them than necessary) so always use a longer/heavier breaker bar than you expect you'll need, this usually saves a heap of time.

Rule No.4. (Obvious) don't try to use cheap tools, they are not the correct ones (imagine what they use a the factory!)

Rule No.5. (Obvious) read the procedure and know why it is that way, not the way most people would try to hack into it...

Rule No.6. If it doesn't come off after referring to rules #1 through 5, check that you are doing it correctly, going in the right direction or can find someone smilled enough to put all the (now broken) pieces back together :D

[leicesterboy15]

I have been doing this same job and have had the same problems! It is a nightmare trying to get the bolts off but I'm still working on it, trouble is I can only do it at weekends. Good luck with it and keep posting!

[infurno]

I have been doing this same job and have had the same problems! It is a nightmare trying to get the bolts off but I'm still working on it, trouble is I can only do it at weekends. Good luck with it and keep posting!

I just installed the thrust arm and the rod, planning to return for the control arm next weekend. Just need it to get me to work now.

Gave up on that bolt. Im planning on just taking the rotor and the entire wheel assembly off so I can get under the boot to that lower control arm ball joint nut. I think I can get to it that way, as soon as I can get that shield out of the way.

After I put everything back together I noticed my wheels are crooked! One is at a low degree turn when the other is straight.

Im going to call around and see if I can get an alignment appointment tomorrow morning.. I hope I can safely get the car there without something awful happening. I was so careful to match the other rods exactly, thought I did!

Is this to be expected? Or did I seriously screw up?

[632 Regal]

didn't use my method...:(

I assembled everything except the ends that attach to the car. Make sure the wheel is centered and work it lightly back n forth a couple time to relax the tire position then remove the old assembly. Then put the new assembly in place and only attach the steering and idler, then adjust the ends to fit in their holes so that they slide right up in there without moving the tires...Tighten up and good to go.

Sorry I thought i had posted a link in my other post.

Your method, this is to be expected.



Is this to be expected? Or did I seriously screw up?

[infurno]

Alright, got it all together and took her out for a spin (actually about 60 feet). It feels awful! my wheel is at 45 degrees to keep it straight, and i have about 30-45 degrees of "slack" where the car will barely respond. I really hope this has something to do with my alignment.

I have AAA so im going to have them come and take it to a shop for alignment since I live about 30 miles away from any.

Tomorrow morning im going to double check the work I did. Im afraid that i may have not tightened a ball joint all the way. (i even heard a clunk going up my driveway) The thrust arm ball joints worried me because the nut would not screw in very far, almost none of the bolt sticks out from the nut.

[infurno]

I took the car to get aligned and it drives much better except for this new clunk noise thats coming from the front. It had never made this noise before. I think its the passenger side, but im not sure. I figure it may be one of two things:

1) I was unable to change the control arm on the driver side. The ball joint is loose and moves around with the tire. It may be making noise now because all the other thrust arms and control arm were changed.

2) There is a control arm bolt that was not tightened all the way.

Im going to post a picture a little later today of the bolts and hopefully someone could tell me if it looks alright or not.

edit:
when I use the breaks, the car pulls to a side.

[infurno]

Im about ready to give up and sell the damn car! :(

Some of you may find this ridiculous but I have been at this for 5 days, working ~10 hours a day. Really tired and frustrated.

Everything is back together but when I drive:

a) a constant deep humming noise from the passenger side front wheel at ~40+ mph. almost like the tire is rubbing on something. but there appears to be nothing it could rub on. (except for the ground)
b) car pulls to the left when breaks are applied. after breaks are released, it does not straighten out. But the humming (a) noise goes away. (possibly due to dropped speed)
c) Thunk sound coming from the passenger side front wheel when hitting small bumps or driving down an uneven road.
d) When the car lifts into the air a bit (after a bump or dip in the road) it steers itself. pulls hard in a direction (left i think) and i have to correct it.

I cant figure it out! I took it to the alignment shop yesterday and they checked everything i did and said it looks fine. This morning i took the passenger side boot off the strut and checked all of the nuts and everything looked good there.

When i press down on the passenger side front i can hear the sound. Its almost like its coming from my strut but its hard to really be sure. I know i need new struts but it never made this sound before. Even if it is the strut (a) (d) and (b) wont make sense.

If anybody has a suggestion i would really appreciate it.

[mamilapon]

I have read that heat should only be used as a last resort, because it weakens the metal and makes it easier to break. i still have more tools left.

i do have a torch handy, but since its on the strut and the break system is right next to it im hesitant to consider heat.

Good news is that im not bleeding yet. Im just not sure what to try next. Going to keep cursing and soaking it in pb blaster
Ive tried that before and it worked so give it a good nip and then try undoing it. good luck:)

[g7syw]

Im about ready to give up and sell the damn car! :(

Don't give up just yet...


a) a constant deep humming noise from the passenger side front wheel at ~40+ mph. almost like the tire is rubbing on something. but there appears to be nothing it could rub on. (except for the ground)

Are you sure it's not a wheel bearing? - I had one do similar on another car I had, couldn't feel any play in it, didn't make any noise until I got to about 35mph.

Just a thought.....

[infurno]

I decided to just take it to the local bmw dealership. They want $50 to have a look at it and find whats wrong.

Im pretty sure its my strut. The passenger side bounces more freely then the driver side and i noticed last time i drove it tended to sway to the passenger side. Also i think thats where the noise is coming from and i can feel a vibration in the strut assembly bolt under cap.

I don't know if my other symptoms make sense with a bad strut but i guess it may be possible.

My parts must have all been so worn that when i changed some of the others they no longer sit very well. What really throws me off is that it had never done any of this before.