Offset negative camber in lowered E34

[bissellh]

Is there a front strut bearing and rear shock mount that will offset the negative camber of the lowered suspension in my 1992 BMW 525i E34 M50 non-vanos with Eibach lowering springs? I was thinking that perhaps the E34 M5 front strut bearing and rear shock mounts have offset for the lower suspension in the M5.

I currently have the Kmac kit in the front and rear. I am thinking about replacing them because I can't even replace a strut insert in the front without getting a major realignment. At least, I do not know how to. Besides they are squeaky in the rear.

Also, my Eibach lowering springs have over 100,000 miles on them. How long are they supposed to last? Would you recommend replacing them?

[attack eagle]

shock mounting locations have 0 effect on the rear suspension. the onyl thing that does is the trailing arm, and it's mounting locations.

M5s use a slotted training arm mount, which you can procure from dinan for your existing subframe and have welled and retrofitted once you remove the subframe from the car.

my Kmacs squeak too... just have to live with it.

[632 Regal]

I didnt think they were slotted, always thought they were just drilled in a different location? Couldn't we just elongate the existing holes? ;)
I never tore mine apart but the camber is liveable with the Eibachs and I dont get that inner tire wear that some people experience.


shock mounting locations have 0 effect on the rear suspension. the onyl thing that does is the trailing arm, and it's mounting locations.

M5s use a slotted training arm mount, which you can procure from dinan for your existing subframe and have welled and retrofitted once you remove the subframe from the car.

my Kmacs squeak too... just have to live with it.

[attack eagle]

IF you elongated the existing holes, you'd wind up with a weak point because there isn't enough material there...

And you'd also not have anything that would keep the bolts from shifting in the holes. Someone took pics on an e30 subframe and it is almost exactly the same thing as doing one of ours

[genphreak]

IF you elongated the existing holes, you'd wind up with a weak point because there isn't enough material there...

And you'd also not have anything that would keep the bolts from shifting in the holes. Someone took pics on an e30 subframe and it is almost exactly the same thing as doing one of oursSo this kit is a plate/s which weld to the existing subframe?

That's sounds nice, but I can't find anything about it online. Does anybody know what they look like? I'd like to modify mine also, the only thing that makes me wonder is if there are any other subframe differences - ie mounting positions for the large diff casing, etc.

Cheers, Nick

[attack eagle]

look up Dinan adjustable rear subframe kit...

it is stage 4 on their website

also look up for an e32,

[Paul in NZ]

........ but the camber is liveable with the Eibachs and I dont get that inner tire wear that some people experience.

I have come to beleive you only get the extreme inside wear on the rears(you would notice on the fronts) because the tires have beem rotated from the front..ie left front,already wearing on the left edge,is put on the rh rear,where it continures to wear on the LH edge...perhaps this is why BMW advise not to rotate...i am going from "rotate" front to rear only on the same side from now on.

[Rory535i]

doesn't the M5 setup just have eccentric holes in the bushes?

[genphreak]

look up Dinan adjustable rear subframe kit... it is stage 4 on their website, also look up for an e32,

Thanks,

I checked enverything under e e32 and e34. All it has is the text;

Part #:
Price:
D170-1051 $299.00 Labor Units: 12.00
Provides the ability to adjust camber angles at the rear of the car for added grip or reduction of inside edge tire wear.

I wish we had the details for this online- for people with tyre wear problesm it could be very handy info...

[genphreak]

doesn't the M5 setup just have eccentric holes in the bushes?Yes, but the subframe, the arms and the brakes are all different part numbers too. The subframe, brakes and I think arms are common to the V8 and V12 7-series e32s. I was mulling over it when updating the big-brake info on bmwe34.net. I still can't work out why Bruno claims that the 735 (12mm) solid rear discs (and the bigger v8/v12 rotors) won't fit on e34 (the only ones he says you can use are the 20mm 540 rotors)- thus precluding the use of a 735 brake setup on the back of an e34.

Obviously it can be done if you have m5 arms and hubs (not htat you'd do that) or if you were to bring the whole e32 rear end over with the brakes. (but who wants to do that)

I just want to know the difference between the e32/4 and m5 subframe assemblies fitted to normal cars and those fitted to the larger e32 and M5.!! Maybe this thread has a few clues...

[Tiger]

If you have tire wearing problem that is significant, then you should check other part of suspension for worn components. Majority of us with lowering spring and struts have no problem with wear.

As for Eibach, they have lifetime warranty... but probably only to workmanship... not gravity wear and tear.

[attack eagle]

I have come to beleive you only get the extreme inside wear on the rears(you would notice on the fronts) because the tires have beem rotated from the front..ie left front,already wearing on the left edge,is put on the rh rear,where it continures to wear on the LH edge...perhaps this is why BMW advise not to rotate...i am going from "rotate" front to rear only on the same side from now on.

NOt always paul. If the toe is off, with the rear camber these cars run it will wear them out very quickly.
I went thru the inner edge on a brand new tire by the time I did the first oil change after purchasing my touring last year. After the kmacs I have about 6k on the tires and they are even.
Plus seeing as how I am a miserly mofo, I only swap same side.
It costs money to have directional tires demounted, remounted, and rebalanced to use them on the other side and BMWs typically wear the outside edge a bit on the front and the inside edge rear so this evens em out