Fix one thing and another goes...

[e34.535i.sport]

The DIY mechanic work never ends!!!!! I seem to be fixing something and then finding something else needs doing straight after!!!! :( I love it and hate it at the same time!

When i bought the car there was a knocking over rough terrain and i replaced the rear subframe bushes (with great difficulty i might add), and that sorted it out (about 5k miles ago). Since i have replaced the front/rear sway bar links, rear brake discs/pads... Then both lower control arms.

A couple of weeks ago i was getting another knocking noise from the rear, which turned out to be the rear pitman arms which i replaced with lemforder ones and all was well.

Now about two weeks later i'm getting the knocking noise again from the rear, so i checked all bolts were torqued correctly, which they are. It sounds much like the noise i got when the subframe bushes were goosed. I used main dealer parts so i don't expect them to be gone after 5k miles am i right? The noise is loud and very annoying over even slightly uneven roads, as it just knocks and knocks and knocks.

I'm at a loss about what it could be, any ideas welcomed, what should i check?

[Jr ///M5]

Sounds like you're getting it sorted out. Here's part of the problem. We're driving cars with over 100k miles on them, sure there's parts that wear, and when they're replaced, it puts strain on the next weak link. So the love/hate relationship continues, it's a good thing your car has an owner like you.

You might try this...

With the car parked, bounce on the rear bumper up and down to try to simulate the knocking sound. (leave the e-brake off, it will make noise if you don't) If you still can't get the car to replicate the sound, go around to the rear wheel well and reach down and pick up on the inside of the fender and see if the sound is when the suspension is retracting. If you can replicate the sound while doing this, you'll need another body to help pinpoint where the noise is located.

What comes to mind are rear shocks, mounts and even broken springs. Good luck with your search.

JR

[e34.535i.sport]

Thanks JR, I love getting my hands dirty under the car and the guy who done the MOT recently was impressed witht the shape it was in and all the new sparkly stuff underneath!!!! After a few hard jobs recently i was just hoping for a months rest!

I'll give that a go tomorrow in the daylight, although i'd hope the shocks and springs don't need replacing as i have the M-tech suspension like yourself and as you'll know it aint cheap.

I'll report back tomorrow, its really bugging me so i'll be getting under straight after work. Said i'd help a friend change his discs/pads all round on his e36 tomorrow too... no rest for the wicked!!!!

Can't wait to sort this one out.

[Ferret]

Does the rear end have roll bar droplinks on it?

Open one of the rear doors, grab the frame and shake the car from side to side to see if it will make the knocking noise :)

[CharlesAFerg]

Someone been gettin busy in the back seat?
Theres some positions the kama sutra just can't even come close to.
Oh! :p

[Jehu]

Yah, did you leave something in the Trunk?...lol

[Rory535i]

yeah rear droplinks maybe? have you replaced the trailing arm bushes? also consider the shock mounts

[e34.535i.sport]

Hi guys, really panicking now. In an unrelated issue i started the car about an hour ago and the battery light was flickering, then stayed on, then faded out... As i'm reversing off the drive a loud hi-pitched squeal comes from somewhere (sounded like when my friends idler wheel was goosed on his e36)... Then the coolant light comes on - when i only topped it up and put some leak-stop stuff in a few days ago?

The other noise has also got worse and sounds sometimes like something rubber rubbing against something, and other times like a knocking. I can produse it sometimes when i drive straight and then turn the wheel side to side and make the cars weight shift from side to side. Its in my head that its something to do with the pitmans or the subframe bushes. I got the car up and the wheel off the left hand rear (where the sound mainly comes from) and tried to reproduce the sound and the only thing i could find was the exhaust heatshield was loose... I secured that but no luck. The pitmans seem fine and the bolts are tight, and i think the beercans are ok too but it was difficult to tell.

I'm also getting creaking noises from the front when im stationary and turn the wheels - sounds like the new rubber on the new control arm bushes is rubbing on the housings?

I feel like the car is falling apart around me, i'm leaving it at home tomorrow as i'm worried about driving it.

[e34.535i.sport]

Trailing arm bushes i haven't replaced, but they look ok from what i can see of them? Is there a way to check them for wear? I've heard people refer to bothe the rear swaybar links and the rear pitman arms as rear droplinks but i've changed both of those, and followed the correct procedure and torqued the bolts correctly where possible.

I know very little about the shocks and the mountings, but i'm assuming you mean at the top where it meets the body? How can i check if this is the problem?

[jonmar]

Squeeling sounds like the belt that goes on the altenator and the powersteering pump. Check it, tighten or replace.

[e34.535i.sport]

I've looked before and the belts seem like new, but i'll look again now as i do get a weird vibration throught the wheel sometimes when parallel parking and things like that? Thanks for the heads up.

I'll report back after closer inspection...

[Ferret]

I've looked before and the belts seem like new, but i'll look again now as i do get a weird vibration throught the wheel sometimes when parallel parking and things like that? Thanks for the heads up.

I'll report back after closer inspection...

I'll swap you :D

Your belt is either not tight enough or your waterpump is starting to seize on you...

This would explain the sudden loss of coolant - check the underside of the pump housing and see if it's wet...

[e34.535i.sport]

Ha ha thanks ferret, i think you may change your mind once you hear this.

I've just been for a look under the bonnet and i'm now really worried. The underside of the bonnet has been soaked with clean coolant, and it has obviously spurted out of somewhere as its nearly all gone and has landed in various places. It gathered in the undertray in a poo, soaked the under bonnet, some pooled on top of various nuts and bolts and things including two of the nuts on the cylinder head.

There's two options by the looks of it and remember when i try to explain im no expert so put me right wherever necessary...

1. Hopefully the right one - theres a thick coolant pipe in a U shape on its side (so like a C shape) that heads into or by the thermostat and it has a small (poss 1mm-3mm) slit in that i don't think was there before, and it could have spurted out of this and landed everywhere, explaining the soaked underbonnet... and the high pitched noise i heard last night.

OR

2. The coolant has came out of the two bolts on the head and i'm goosed. I am seriously hoping this is not the case and i think the other option is more likely, what do you think?

I want to check by running the engine but the coolant level went down to right at the bottom of the clear plasticcontainer where it meets the black coolant pipe, is it ok to just top it up or will i need to bleed the system or what?

When i drove the car for about 10miles yesterday i was watching the temp and it stayed where it normally is, at 1/2. It definitely never got any hotter than normal.

What would you do, i need a way to check where the leak is coming from but i dont want to just fill the coolant and run the engine without checking first?

Please help, I'm freaking out.

[Tiger]

After you drive to operating temperature, shut off the engine. Since the cooling system is still under pressure, you should be able to see where the leak is coming from. You will need a good flashlight to see it.

[SnakeyesTx]

Hrm... the popping noise you're hearing could be worn out strut mount bushings and the noise caused by the strut shaking around the "cup." Worst case scenario, you drive the strut through the steel not sure where it pokes out from on our car yet.

I had a hidden coolant leak for a while too. There's quite a few little hoses under the intake. One in particular went to a "thermostat" into the air box (they called it a thermostat since I broke it and had to replace it at the dealer). Be sure to take off the radiator bleeder screw when you top off (don't fill it with the engine running or you get a really nice coolant fountain out of the bleeder screw hole!)

[Ferret]

Ha ha thanks ferret, i think you may change your mind once you hear this.

I've just been for a look under the bonnet and i'm now really worried. The underside of the bonnet has been soaked with clean coolant, and it has obviously spurted out of somewhere as its nearly all gone and has landed in various places. It gathered in the undertray in a poo, soaked the under bonnet, some pooled on top of various nuts and bolts and things including two of the nuts on the cylinder head.

There's two options by the looks of it and remember when i try to explain im no expert so put me right wherever necessary...

1. Hopefully the right one - theres a thick coolant pipe in a U shape on its side (so like a C shape) that heads into or by the thermostat and it has a small (poss 1mm-3mm) slit in that i don't think was there before, and it could have spurted out of this and landed everywhere, explaining the soaked underbonnet... and the high pitched noise i heard last night.

OR

2. The coolant has came out of the two bolts on the head and i'm goosed. I am seriously hoping this is not the case and i think the other option is more likely, what do you think?

I want to check by running the engine but the coolant level went down to right at the bottom of the clear plasticcontainer where it meets the black coolant pipe, is it ok to just top it up or will i need to bleed the system or what?

When i drove the car for about 10miles yesterday i was watching the temp and it stayed where it normally is, at 1/2. It definitely never got any hotter than normal.

What would you do, i need a way to check where the leak is coming from but i dont want to just fill the coolant and run the engine without checking first?

Please help, I'm freaking out.

If you're sure you've got a leak (which you have, lol) drain the coolant out of the engine and fill it with water only. This will boil much easier and pinpoint your exact leak - you'll need to open the bleed screw as you fill up with water... I found it easier with the M30 motor to fill the radiator up by its top hose than waiting for the water to syphon around.

Once it's filled run your engine up to temp with the bonnet up, and stand back and wait for the fireworks.

A leak this big should be easy to spot...

[e34.535i.sport]

Hey need a quick response on this one guys!

It was the hose - so i've drained the coolant and changed the hose that is a small C shape that goes from the water pump to the thermostat housing once the coolant had finished draining (a few drips only)... There was still a lot of coolant staying in the water pump up to where the pipe came off - is this normal? I just don't want to fill the car with coolant and then test it to find that i need to change the pump or anything???? I hope not!!!

Thanks in advance...

[TC535i]

No need to "charge the pump", just bleed well and you're set.

On a 535, that means uphill, multiple bleed cycles, car at operating temp with heater on full blast, someone inside watching temp, etc.

[e34.535i.sport]

Guess that was a silly question!

I filled it up until coolant came out of the bleed screw on the thermostat, and then put the cap on the resevoir. I started her up and no leaks :) ... temp stayed fine :D and i loosened and tightened the thermostat bleed screw MANY times!!!! No bubbles were present anyway though? Does this sound like the correct procedure? I am using a Haynes manual and it isn't that helpful sometimes to be honest. Need to get me a bentley manual.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.

[e34.535i.sport]

No need to "charge the pump", just bleed well and you're set.

On a 535, that means uphill, multiple bleed cycles, car at operating temp with heater on full blast, someone inside watching temp, etc.

Hey there, thanks for that - could you elaborate on the bleeding procedure please? I wasn't planning to do this job for some time until i'm ready, i'm relatively new to the DIY mechanic game and i like to be well prepared for any jobs i undertake. This one took me by surprise to say the least.

Thanks again.

[Ferret]

Guess that was a silly question!

I filled it up until coolant came out of the bleed screw on the thermostat, and then put the cap on the resevoir. I started her up and no leaks :) ... temp stayed fine :D and i loosened and tightened the thermostat bleed screw MANY times!!!! No bubbles were present anyway though? Does this sound like the correct procedure? I am using a Haynes manual and it isn't that helpful sometimes to be honest. Need to get me a bentley manual.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.

The coolant staying up to the hose anchor point is normal.

I know what you mean about the haynes manual... they're pretty craptacular tbh, I've got a digi copy of the bentley manual here - just need somewhere to host it for you.

Keep an eye on your temp for the next few days and I'd advise re-bleeding it in a few days just to make sure there's no air trapped in the system.

[E34-520iSE]

I know what you mean about the haynes manual... they're pretty craptacular tbh.

I found the Haynes BMW 5 series manual to be about as relevant as a broken leg. Get a hold of the Morris Minor one , it's much more useful!

HTH,

Shaun M

[e34.535i.sport]

Ha ha ha, i can see you all love the haynes too!

Thanks ferret, i've learnt what the anchor point is now, i might be able to sound like i know what im talking about for once!!! I went with the thermostat hole thingy!!!

I'm going to test the car on a short journey to work tomorrow (3miles) and see how it fares. WIll probably try and bleed the system a little in the morning too, and then again tomorrow night. I'm sorry for asking so many questions but when bleeding i loosened the screw until coolant flowed out then closed it (and repeated), i'm assuming this is enough? I didn't get any bubbles or anything though?

I cant thank you all enough.

[mamilapon]

This sounds like youve got a loose belt and/or low on p/s fluid...fix!

[e34.535i.sport]

This sounds like youve got a loose belt and/or low on p/s fluid...fix!

Thanks, the belts seem fine i checked them yesterday - i think the sqeal may have been when water squirted out of the broken hose and got on the belt? I drove it to work this morning and no problems (besides the suspension noises! - It sounds like a right banger).

Will check the P-S fliud tonight though, thanks for the reminder!

[e34.535i.sport]

Oh and i've bled the system twice (on hill and with heater on full blast - nice and warm inside!), and no bubbles! No overheating issues either so i may have just been lucky and got no air in there in the first place????!!!!