Self centred steering

[whiskychaser]

Steering doesnt self centre as I think it should-turn wheel through about 90 degrees and its happy to stay there. I think it should be trying to break my wrist to get back to straight ahead. Also its a bit heavy to park. Well for my lady it is but I'd like it right. So what we got:
No uneven tyre wear
No loose belts
Replaced power steering fluid 18 months ago
Tracking just been checked
No iffy joints
Must admit about a year ago centre tie rod was replaced for MOT. Drove it from garage and nearly put it in a wall as it didnt straighten up on its own. So two questions:
1. If the tracking is bang on what else can I check?
2. Any suggestions on making steering lighter when parking?

[Dave M]

Must admit about a year ago centre tie rod was replaced for MOT. Drove it from garage and nearly put it in a wall as it didnt straighten up on its own.


Can you elaborate? Was this condition short-lived?

If its not wheel alignment, FUBAR'ed steering components or a worn box ;), its a mystery to me.

Something tells me a worn box wouldn't contribute to what you're experiencing. Have you considered the center tie rod, idler arm, the 'arm from the box' (had a few, can't remeber the name).

Dave

[gale]

Check the adjustment of the sector nut on the top of the steering box:

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/steering_box.jpg

I tightened it too tight one time & it behaved the same as yours. As they wear, they might have a little slop on center but can be tight in either direction off-center. Bruno did a good write-up:

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/steering/steering_box.htm

[Denton]

My steering is the same way. It hasn't self-centered in the year I've had it. I'm used to it.

114k miles. Only newer stuff is Boge struts/shocks, Lemfoerder sway links and LCAs.

[gale]

I did some major front suspension work on my son's 89 535i and set the toe-in at -1/16" with a very crude homemade wooden caliper & it centers much better than it did before. It needs tires so I'll wait until then to have a formal alignment done. The BMW spec's aren't etched in stone, so maybe try a shop that can vary the setting & see if they can adjust it to suit.

I did notice that it steers much differently (for the worse) if we load it down with a car load of passengers so I'm sure it's not correct the way it is.

[whiskychaser]

Can you elaborate? Was this condition short-lived?

If its not wheel alignment, FUBAR'ed steering components or a worn box ;), its a mystery to me.

Something tells me a worn box wouldn't contribute to what you're experiencing. Have you considered the center tie rod, idler arm, the 'arm from the box' (had a few, can't remeber the name).

Dave
What happened was if you pulled the wheel to make a turn, it just stayed in that position. Felt like you could drive round in circles without holding the steering. Mechanic checked and found the new centre tie rod was a different length from the old one. He adjusted the tracking and that improved it no end. Just wondering if that may be the cause. Thanks for the info on the steering box Gale. I dont think its badly worn or binding but will check the adjustment anyway.

[Morgenster]

My mechanic talked me out of adjusting the box for those reasons. I once posted to find out what it is that actually gets adjusted in the box but got no answer. Now what gets adjusted?

[whiskychaser]

My mechanic talked me out of adjusting the box for those reasons. I once posted to find out what it is that actually gets adjusted in the box but got no answer. Now what gets adjusted?
You are adjusting the worm drives inside the box to take up slack caused by the shoulders wearing. Unfortunately the wear isnt uniform lock to lock- its normally right in the middle. The danger is if you adjust it up too much, the worms will bind when you turn the wheel to one side. Result is your steering is heavy or may even stick.

[Morgenster]

Wouldn't this eventually go away because of more wear on the tighter parts of the wormgear? I'm really getting annoyed with the slack on centre. Especially on highways where I spend 90% of driving.

[whiskychaser]

Wouldn't this eventually go away because of more wear on the tighter parts of the wormgear? I'm really getting annoyed with the slack on centre. Especially on highways where I spend 90% of driving.
I dont think it will even itself out because most of the 'work' the steering box does is really small movements from centre. The position the wormgears are in at full lock wont get much. The link Gale suggested refers to adjusting the box when the steering is not line ahead. I appreciate your frustration. Its tiring having to correct the damn thing all the time. And you dont expect a tonne and a half to blow about so easily :)

[Ross]

Caster is what makes the car go straight and the wheel return to center.
Unfortunately this is not adjustable on our cars. Has your car been hit?
I think there is a way to change caster fooling around with the strut mounting on the top but have never done it.

[whiskychaser]

Caster is what makes the car go straight and the wheel return to center.
Unfortunately this is not adjustable on our cars. Has your car been hit?
I think there is a way to change caster fooling around with the strut mounting on the top but have never done it.
Car has not been hit since I owned it and no signs of it before that. I just looked up caster angle in detail and think you are right on the money. As the steering is a. heavy when parking b. doesnt self centre properly the problem does seem to be in that area. The job now is to find which bit is causing the problem. :) Thanks for the hint!

[Ross]

If it's out then something has moved that isn't supposed to. Are the shock towers rusty?
I suppose a thoroughly thrashed ball joint could cause enough deviation but have to assume it would have manifested itself otherwise before now.

[whiskychaser]

If it's out then something has moved that isn't supposed to. Are the shock towers rusty?
I suppose a thoroughly thrashed ball joint could cause enough deviation but have to assume it would have manifested itself otherwise before now.
No, the towers are sound. Not a hint of rust. There are no obvious signs but I'm damned sure it didnt leave the factory like that:) So I've just got to be methodical and check for wear or binding somewhere. I do about 300+ miles a day for work. Its not a great claim to fame when a truck's steering is lighten and self-centers better than your car. And lets not mention the mpg:)

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Only a thought but on the thrust arm at the body mount there are two holes. If the bolt is through the outer one it gives drastic castor but it will fit.Just stripped a 535 that had horrid steering and guess where the bolt was?

[gale]

Only a thought but on the thrust arm at the body mount there are two holes. If the bolt is through the outer one it gives drastic castor but it will fit.Just stripped a 535 that had horrid steering and guess where the bolt was?

Ditto, I saw that on my son's e34 when we did his suspension. Just for grins I tried to see what it would do if I put the lower bushing in the outer hole and it gave it a rediculous amount of negative camber. Realoem shows they used same crossmember/subframe for the e32 and e34. The inner hole is for the e34, the outer hole is for the e32.

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Glad I`me not the only one who has tried that! Camber good but could not get the tracking back as ran out of adjustment, might be fun at a track.

[whiskychaser]

Glad I`me not the only one who has tried that! Camber good but could not get the tracking back as ran out of adjustment, might be fun at a track.
Any easy one to check - they are in the 'inside' holes. Bet it would make for 'interesting' handling if you used the outer ones:) Will keep looking till I find the culprit(s)

[Ross]

Have you checked the universal joint in the steering column down by the steering box? I've seen 'em go bad and bind.