Anyone change water pump on a 540iA?

[merlin]

The darn thing is leaking from the shaft. I loathe to do this myself, but budget is tight and it has to be done.

I couldn't find a thorough DIY procedure on the M60. Anyone done it themselves can give some tips?

My main concerns:

1. Did you take the throttle body off? It's hard to maneuver your way or even see what you're doing with it being there, especially with the hood hinged on the front and you're working from the side.

2. Those 2 water pipes passing under the intake manifold.. what in heavens name did you do to keep them in place while wrestling the pump out of the o-rings?

3. The vibration damper is a big chunk of metal. It seems that the one water pump bolt behind it can be undone without removing it. Does it really need to come off?

4. Is this thing really self-bleeding as everybody says? No vent screws and no massaging hoses?


I've done this before on an M42 and M52TU, but the complexity of this engine (and the hood in the front) is just making me uneasy about the whole thing.

Any help is much appreciated.

[pgrindstaff]

I did this a few weeks ago when I took the intake manifold off, obviously the throttle body was off as well. I don't have any idea how anyone could do the job without removing it because as you said, it is tight in there.

The water pipes running under the manifold were not a significant problem for me since I had the manifold off. The only suggestion I have is to try to hold the pipes in place with one hand and try to get the pump out with the other. I wouldn't think that the pipes comming out would be a huge deal other than having a little coolant under the manifold and having a hard time getting them back in the right holes. I didn't get to replace the o-rings because I forgot to order them.

The bottom bolt on the water pump is quite frankly a beotch to get out and back on. I just used a 10mm wrench to slowly turn it out but had a 10mm pivoting ratchet wrench to put it back in with. It takes time and patience but is do-able.

Yes, the system is self bleeding. Refill the coolant, let the car warm up enough for the tstat to open and check to see if you need more.

I'm not sure how much these will help but here are some pictures (http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r244/pcaddict/Water%20Pump/)

[pingu]

I can't remember where I saw this hint but apparently you want to take care not to dislodge the two metal pipes that go to the back of the engine as otherwise you'll have a lot of agro making a good seal.

[merlin]

Thanks for sharing. This job is going to test my patience.

Those 2 pipes are a particular nightmare, I hope I don't dislodge them from the accumulator and end up removing the intake manifold to position them back in.

No wonder there's hardly any documented DIY on this. And there's no relief even if you take it to a shop, they'll just butcher the car and screw your wallet.


Any more helpful tips are moooost welcome. A big thanks in advance.

[632 Regal]

its not that bad of a job at all, take the easy stuff off for more access. You should be able to wiggle the pump off the coolant tube in front easy enough. If the back pops off you have a 90% chance of it leaking even if you can magically get it back on there. The little bolt on the botton is a complete bastard, takes longer to mess with that than the whole job.

[Tiger]

That little bolt you are talking about is easy if you took off the main crank pulley as instructed...

[tim s]

tim s.

[Fetch]

I did it without taking the intake manifold or throttle body off. Those pipes can be left alone, as long as you are careful they should stay on back there.

lol at the one bolt behind the main crank pulley, that thing was annoying. I ended up having to get a small air ratchet to get the main pulley off, because the engine was turning when I tried to unbolt it. (shouldn't the engine be harder to turn?...or is my nikasil that loose from lack of compression...)

[Tiger]

Unnecessary... the main pulley is so easy to remove and install. Tons of room once the fan is removed.

[632 Regal]

that takes all the fun out of it! :D


Unnecessary... the main pulley is so easy to remove and install. Tons of room once the fan is removed.

[Jehu]

I did it without taking the intake manifold or throttle body off. Those pipes can be left alone, as long as you are careful they should stay on back there.

lol at the one bolt behind the main crank pulley, that thing was annoying. I ended up having to get a small air ratchet to get the main pulley off, because the engine was turning when I tried to unbolt it. (shouldn't the engine be harder to turn?...or is my nikasil that loose from lack of compression...)

These pipes and the manifold are one of the steps i was told which made replacing the Timing Chain cover gaskets such lengthy thus expensive job at a shop but this has me wondering if since you suggest the water pump can come off without budging those pipes and the attendant steps to refit them if the job shouldn't actually be doable for much less. I still of course have no place to drain coolant and oil so i'm forced to rely on a shop when i eventually want to fix the oil leak but the water pump removal is essential to the job so i'm glad you think the intake manifold and those water pipes can actually be left untouched when taking the pump off. After the little body work i'm getting done that oil leak is really the only thing which stands between me and an essentially 100% functioning E34 540/6.