DIY wheel allignment

[shogun]

Have done it today again, who else is doing it?
We use this one
http://65.61.151.148/photos/G4008-2.jpg
http://www.frost.co.uk/images/product_Images/8657.jpg

Here some more info
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/428554

[BigKriss]

Wow, I can't see that clearly from the picture, does it tell you toe in/out in mm or minutes?

How long did it take you to align your wheels? Is it easy? I mean to adjust the tie rods while the measuring device is underneath the wheels.

[e34.535i.sport]

I want to know more also! I'd be seriously interested in one of those if it worked... Imagine the savings - especially with the amount of speed bumps in my area.

[shogun]

It shows it in degrees, toe-in or toe-out.
Then you have to adjust the tie-rod on that side where the tool is, drive straight back and forward again over that tool again to measure and you see the next measurement. On the other side one has to put a rubber mat in front of the wheel so that both have same height (included in the tool set).
After it fits, move to the other side and do the same.
Not too difficult, we had to adjust each side 2 times and then it was a perfect fit. But my buddy has experience with it and told us how many mm we should most probably adjust for that degree, so we followed his advise, but as it looks it is quickly learned by experience.
A pit is of course of advantage for the adjustment in between measurements.

I have searched in the internet with these catch words and apparently in the U.K. that tool is is well known and recommended, for example in a Volvo Forum.
Do a search, or maybe another person can chime in who uses this or another (maybe better?) tool.

[BigKriss]

Thankyou Erich, I will look into it. It will save money in the long run for sure. I don't trust tyre shops over here.I thought it was about 3.5mm +/- 1mm total of toe in for the e34 535i.

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Suggest you try "demon tweaks" for the best price, google them,it does work but I suggest you get it professionally done them use a tractrite to establsh a datum, then when you check it you have something to check against.

[bsell]

Have done it today again, who else is doing it?
We use this one
http://65.61.151.148/photos/G4008-2.jpg
http://www.frost.co.uk/images/product_Images/8657.jpg

Here some more info
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/428554

You ever set toe-in with a tape measure?:D I have in a pinch and checked it later on the four-wheel machine at work. Guess what, it was spot on.

All you have to do is measure from the same part of the tread pattern on both the front side of the tire front tires and the rear side front tires. The difference in measurements gives you your toe-in. It helps to have a tool to hold the steering wheel straight while adjusting the tie rods.

Brian

[ryan roopnarine]

harbor freight finally has teh ebay beat for cheapness on an alignment tool....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30167

12.99, not as nice looking as the converted ramp tool you brought up, though.

[shogun]

German Oldtimer magazine tested it and states that it is almost comparable to a $ 30.000 high tech machine in accuracy. Minor differences could be neglected.

Here some more info:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Trakrite-Wheel-Alignment-Gauge-Tool-By-Gunson-G4008_W0QQitemZ250177742829QQihZ015QQcategoryZ3091 7QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem

[BigKriss]

is there a link from the old timer magazine to show us the review?

[shogun]

I got this info from a German online seller which supplies mainly to oldtimer owners.
Mit dem Trakrite können Sie sehr einfach die Spureinstellung Ihres Fahrzeugs überprüfen. Das Funktionsprinzip ist so einfach wie genial: Sie legen das Meßbett vor ein Vorderrad und fahren langsam darüber (Achten Sie darauf, daß sich die Platte frei bewegen kann und nicht auf Steinchen etc. Aufliegt). Je nach Einstellung der Spur verschiebt sich die Meßplatte und man kann die Einstellung am Zeiger ablesen. Gegebenenfalls wird dir Spureinstellung dann entsprechend korrigiert und nochmal überprüft. (Getestet wurde Trakrite in Oldtimer-Markt 11/97 - Urteil: nur geringe, unbedeutende Meßtoleranz gegenüber einem teuren professionellem Spurmeßgerät mit Meßuhr !)

Oldtimer-Markt 11/97 :

You have to/can buy it on German Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.de/Oldtimer-Markt-11-97-DB-W-111-Lotus-Elan-11CV_W0QQitemZ330177157232QQihZ014QQcategoryZ86220 QQcmdZViewItem

[BigKriss]

thanks Erich

[Paul in NZ]

I got this info from a German online seller which supplies mainly to oldtimer owners.
Mit dem Trakrite können Sie sehr einfach die Spureinstellung Ihres Fahrzeugs überprüfen. Das Funktionsprinzip ist so einfach wie genial: Sie legen das Meßbett vor ein Vorderrad und fahren langsam darüber (Achten Sie darauf, daß sich die Platte frei bewegen kann und nicht auf Steinchen etc. Aufliegt). Je nach Einstellung der Spur verschiebt sich die Meßplatte und man kann die Einstellung am Zeiger ablesen. Gegebenenfalls wird dir Spureinstellung dann entsprechend korrigiert und nochmal überprüft. (Getestet wurde Trakrite in Oldtimer-Markt 11/97 - Urteil: nur geringe, unbedeutende Meßtoleranz gegenüber einem teuren professionellem Spurmeßgerät mit Meßuhr !)

Oldtimer-Markt 11/97 :

You have to/can buy it on German Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.de/Oldtimer-Markt-11-97-DB-W-111-Lotus-Elan-11CV_W0QQitemZ330177157232QQihZ014QQcategoryZ86220 QQcmdZViewItem
With the Trakrite you can examine very simply the adjusting tread width of your vehicle. The operational principle is as simple as ingenious: They put the measuring bed to drive before a front wheel and slowly over it (you make sure that the plate can move freely and not on Steinchen etc.. Rests upon). Depending upon attitude of the trace the surface plate and one shift can the attitude from the pointer read off. If necessary you adjusting tread width is then corrected accordingly and examined again. (Trakrite in old timer market 11/97 - judgement was tested: only small, insignificant measuring tolerance opposite an expensive professional toe in device with dial gauge!)

[Rory535i]

u can't beat a piece of string tied round all 4 wheels :p

[leicesterboy15]

I had the wheel shimmy and clunking so I replaced the upper and lower arms and bushes and sway bar links but shimmy was still there. Thought maybe geometry was put out so replaced the tie rods and got the car 4 wheel laser aligned, shimmy is still there, car is now jittery and not so surefooted like the wheels are going in different directions and the wheel sometimes seems off-centre - it seems that this 540i is either cursed or a bitch to work on as everytime I have taken it to a garage to get some work done, they screw something up (different garage each time) so I suppose the tracking should be no different. If this device works and it means one less trip to the garage then its well worth it! It cost me £50 for the 4 wheel laser alignment which is roughly the same as the purchase price for this thing!

[shogun]

so far I have only done the front, and that is really easy.
On another board someone answered:

"It's a toe gauge. Pretty much as accurate as a $30,000 alignment machine as far as toe is concerned. Works on the front and rear. Excellent tool to have if you're replacing tie rods or thrust rod bushings in the front. Useless if replacing rear suspension components."

[BigKriss]

well, only the toe is adjustable on our cars

[E34-520iSE]

Ha ha i did mine with a long length of wood last week and it was spot on!

Cheers,

Shaun M

[shogun]

Kris,
here is one again, they ship worldwide from U.K.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Trakrite-Wheel-Alignment-Gauge-Tool-By-Gunson-G4008_W0QQitemZ250224362943QQihZ015QQcategoryZ3091 7QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p16 38.m122

[shogun]

manual how to do
http://www.gunson.co.uk/items/pdf/Products/G4008_Instructions.pdf
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1812

[Scott C]

You ever set toe-in with a tape measure?:D I have in a pinch and checked it later on the four-wheel machine at work. Guess what, it was spot on.

All you have to do is measure from the same part of the tread pattern on both the front side of the tire front tires and the rear side front tires. The difference in measurements gives you your toe-in. It helps to have a tool to hold the steering wheel straight while adjusting the tie rods.

Brian

Have done it 2x - first time I took it to stealer to set - found I was within tolerance and they made no adjustments... Tape measure is fine.

[BigKriss]

Erich, does is come with the rubber pad also to put on the other wheel?

[ahlem]

Depending on how good you are at geometry you can do the same thing with a couple lengths of 1/2" conduit. You measure between the conduit about a foot in front of each wheel and then at the 10' end away from the wheel and then the diagonals. Your diagonals must be the same or you are not tracking straight. The difference between the dimension at the 1 foot in front of the wheel location and the 10-foot ends of the conduit is twice your toe in.
Now, if a train leaves Chicago heading west at 60 miles an hour.....
Actually it's not that complicated if you remember that a squared plus b squared equals c squared and sat next to that cute smart girl in high school geometry.

[shogun]

Erich, does is come with the rubber pad also to put on the other wheel?

yes, I got the rubber pad also.

[bsell]

To the guys who use string or tape measure, where you you get the centre measurement from, the middle of the centre tie rod (track rod), or the ends of it? or somewhere else?

I measured from the highest point on the front-side and rear-side of the front tires as I could get while maintaining a tight, straight tape measure. Of course I used the same grooves in the tires, both front and back. As you will need an assistant to hold the other end of the tape against the tire, make sure your helper understands the idea of using the same groove on both sides of the tire.

After reading the geometry post above, I started wondering what the definition of toe-in really was...so I went to Wikipedia and read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_(automotive)

You know this toe-in setting is not that big a deal to do after tackling the job a couple times. Altering the setting a little bit, 1/8th inch, or so can be felt pretty quickly during normal and spirited driving. The tell-tale feathering of overdone toe angle takes more time to show so use good measuring technique and check your work a couple times, then everything will be all right.

Brian

[Dash01]

u can't beat a piece of string tied round all 4 wheels :p


I use yellow thread, run around the car at the equator of each tire and held taught by a bit of masking tape. I insert a ~1/16" allen wrench between the thread and the front bulge of each front tire, and make sure the thread is straight: It indicates a straight line across the back bulges of the rear tire, the back bulge of the front tire, and across the allen wrench. ~1/16" thick allen wrench means the toe-in is correct, i.e, that each front wheel has that amount of toe-in, which translates to the correct angle.

I park the car on a level driveway or garage floor, with a couple of sheets of wax paper under each front tire, as a dry lubricant. This allows the wheel to be adjusted without squirm resistance from the tire.

Car tracks straight ahead, hands off, at 100 mph on a straight and level road. After I did this, I took it to a laser alignment shop, who refused to charge me since their machine indicated the alignment was already perfect.

Don't waste your money on the fancy angle thingy. This works better. Borrow a spool of thread of some kite string and do it yourself, in ~15 minutes.

[BigKriss]

To the guys who use string or tape measure, where you you get the centre measurement from, the middle of the centre tie rod (track rod), or the ends of it? or somewhere else?

[shogun]

in Autralia on clearance sale, Kris, for $ 298.65 :(
are they crazy to talk about clearance?
http://www.revheads.com.au/GUTR%20Notes.html
but at least they have a nice description how it works ;)

http://www.revheads.com.au/GUTR%20Notes.html

[BigKriss]

Thanks, but the UK item on ebay works out to be a lot cheaper. How much toe in did you give on your e32 Erich?


in Australia on clearance sale, Kris, for $ 298.65 :(
are they crazy to talk about clearance?
http://www.revheads.com.au/GUTR%20Notes.html
but at least they have a nice description how it works ;)

http://www.revheads.com.au/GUTR%20Notes.html

[BigKriss]

how much toe in did you give it, or was it just a guess?


I use yellow thread, run around the car at the equator of each tire and held taught by a bit of masking tape. I insert a ~1/16" allen wrench between the thread and the front bulge of each front tire, and make sure the thread is straight: It indicates a straight line across the back bulges of the rear tire, the back bulge of the front tire, and across the allen wrench. ~1/16" thick allen wrench means the toe-in is correct, i.e, that each front wheel has that amount of toe-in, which translates to the correct angle.

I park the car on a level driveway or garage floor, with a couple of sheets of wax paper under each front tire, as a dry lubricant. This allows the wheel to be adjusted without squirm resistance from the tire.

Car tracks straight ahead, hands off, at 100 mph on a straight and level road. After I did this, I took it to a laser alignment shop, who refused to charge me since their machine indicated the alignment was already perfect.

Don't waste your money on the fancy angle thingy. This works better. Borrow a spool of thread of some kite string and do it yourself, in ~15 minutes.

[BigKriss]

Thanks


I measured from the highest point on the front-side and rear-side of the front tires as I could get while maintaining a tight, straight tape measure. Of course I used the same grooves in the tires, both front and back. As you will need an assistant to hold the other end of the tape against the tire, make sure your helper understands the idea of using the same groove on both sides of the tire.

After reading the geometry post above, I started wondering what the definition of toe-in really was...so I went to Wikipedia and read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_(automotive)

You know this toe-in setting is not that big a deal to do after tackling the job a couple times. Altering the setting a little bit, 1/8th inch, or so can be felt pretty quickly during normal and spirited driving. The tell-tale feathering of overdone toe angle takes more time to show so use good measuring technique and check your work a couple times, then everything will be all right.

Brian

[shogun]

how much toe in did you give it, or was it just a guess?

With this tool you do not even have to know toe-in and toe-out, just as described here

http://www.revheads.com.au/GUTR%20Notes.html

[Dash01]

how much toe in did you give it, or was it just a guess?


It was not a guess. Rather, it was a calculation, taking the prescribed toe-in and working backward to estimate how much offset from a straight line is correct when measured at the tire bulge. In other words, there is less offset at the bulge than out at the tread, the tread being further from the pivot point.

In essence, there should be a straight line (as seen by sighting down the taught thread, when placed horizontally across the equators of the tires) that intersects both bulges of the rear tire, the aft bulge of the front tire, and the outer surface of the 1/16" allen wrench held snug to the front bulge of the front tire by the thread. Run one long and taught piece of thread around the whole car, held in place by a bit of tape. Make sure the thread crosses each tire at its equator, i.e., right across the center of each hub. Then, insert the allen wrench between the thread and that tire sidewall bulge on the front side of the front tire. Adjust toe-in such that the thread is straight across the bulges of the rear tire, the aft bulge of the front tire, and across the allen wrench.

Start by parking the car on a smooth, level surface with the steering wheel centered and wheels pointed straight ahead.

Use fishing line or string if thread is not available, or a heavy duty paper clip if you don't have a ~1/16" allen wrench, since they are about the same thickness. 10 or 12 Postit notes from a Postit note pad would also work--anything of correct thickness that is light and will offset the fore tire bulge from a straight line by ~1/16".

If I could post pictures here, you'd see at a glance how this works. I just rewind the thread on its spool, and put it back in wife's sewing kit until next time. Been doing this for decades.

[shogun]

Kris,

when you order, better reconfirm with seller that the mat is included. Just found this link, where there are options with and without mat
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=GUNG4008

[shogun]

Toe Simplified

Toe is the pointing in or pointing out of the front wheels as viewed from the top of the car. If the front wheels point in, toward the engine, at the front edge of the wheels then you have toe in. If the front wheels point out at the front edge then you have toe out.
In general, racecars are set with a small amount of toe out. The toe out provides directional stability. Toe out pulls on the tie rods taking out the tiny clearances that are built into the tie rod ends. Depending on the type of car typical toe readings are 1/16" to �" out for tracks under � mile in length.

Toe should be checked often as any contact with other cars or retaining walls is likely to change your toe setting. Changes in ride height can have an effect on toe as well.

Toe can be set with a pair of toe plates that are rested on the sidewalls of the tires. A tape is placed on the toe plates in front of the tire and an additional tape behind the tire. When using toe plates a smaller tape reading on the back tape indicates toe out.

For a very precise reading you can scribe a line in each front tire. Use a tire scribe and spin each of the front tires to get your straight line. You can then measure between the two scribed lines with a tape measure or with a toe bar. As with toe plates, a smaller measurement at the backside of the tire indicates toe out.

Some racers use a toe bar to measure the toe that lies against the sidewall on one side of the racecar. On the other side, this toe bar extends past the sidewall by a few inches. A tape is used to measure from the toe bar back to the sidewall. When this system is used a smaller tape reading at the front of the tire indicates toe out. You will notice that this is opposite the two other methods described above.

Set Toe Properly

You will get better more consistent results adjusting your toe in settings if you go the extra mile to eliminate variables. You must first decide which technique that you plan to use to take the measurements. Each technique offers different benefits and drawbacks. The methods discussed here will be the Toe Plate method, Toe Bar Method and Tire Scribe Method. If you understand each toe setting technique you will be assured of repeatable results.

Before you begin taking measurements you must insure that the car is race ready. Ride heights set, weight percentages correct, driver weight accounted for, bump steer set, camber and caster set, Ackerman set, air pressure set, stagger correct....you get the idea. You should also inspect the steering components and replace any that are worn or bent. Center up the steering before you begin. Center the drag link or rack so that the inner control pivots and inner tie rods are centered to each other. Tie rod lengths should be adjusted to match you lower control points if possible.

String the right side of the car to line up the right front to the right rear. By lining up the right side and starting with the right front in line with the right rear you will eliminate any Ackerman effect that is in the car. If the wheels are turned away from straight when you take your toe measurement the Ackerman effect can add toe out that will not be present when the wheels are straight ahead. Take the time to string the right side and you will get more precise results. Make sure to settle the car and roll it forward just before taking a reading. By rolling forward the caster in the car will pull the front wheels take any clearance in your suspension components all in one direction. Be sure not to let the car roll back after you have rolled it forward. By rolling the car forward each time you will get more accurate repeatable results. Be sure to roll the car back then forward after each adjustment to relieve any pressure in the tire and suspension components.

When taking toe measurements that utilize the side wall it is a good idea to spin each front tire and mark the high spots on the side wall with a piece of chalk. Jack up the car and spin the RF wheel. Hold a piece of chalk on a jack stand about 1/8" away from the sidewall. Spin the tire and see if the chalk hits anywhere on the sidewall. If the chalk does not leave a mark then move the chalk gradually closer until you get marks on the high spots. Then find the uniform spots on the side wall and orient the tire so that those points will touch the Toe bar or toe plate when the car is on the ground. Lower the car and repeat the process on the other side.

Toe Plate Method: Toe plates offer fast and easy measurement of the front end alignment. When using toe plates be sure to have the toe plates resting flat on the ground and centered on the tire. You should always be sure to have the toe plates flat against the side wall. Make sure that the plate is up against the side wall evenly on both sides. Air up the tires so that there is not a bulge at the bottom of the tire in the center due to under inflation. Go the extra mile and mark the high spots of the side wall with chalk. Use a tape measure to check the back of the tire and the front between toe plates. The toe plate method should give you a smaller number at the back of the tire if you want to have toe out. Remember that any bent wheels or imperfections in the side wall will affect your settings.

Toe Bar Method: When using a toe bar make sure that the toe bar is held in the same place on the side wall each time on both sides of the car. Make sure that the toe bar is straight up and that equal pressure is place both front and back. Chalk the wheels and take your measurements. Measure the difference from the toe bar to the side wall on the back and on the front. To have toe out you will need to see a larger measurement on the back side of the tire. This is opposite of the toe plate and Tire Scribe measurement techniques. Any wheel run out or side wall imperfections will have an effect on your readings.

Tire Scribe Method: Start by scribing a line in each front tire. By spinning the tire and scribing a line with a tire scribe you will take out any variables to to bent wheels or side wall wobbles. Measure the front and back of the tire. A smaller number at the back side of the tire will produce toe out.

Regardless of the method used you should use care to adjust the tire rods equally so as to keep the geometry of the front end correct. Be sure to tighten all jamb nuts and other steering components as well as visually inspecting the steering system. All three methods can give you good results if you take your time and eliminate as many variables as possible
http://www.bakerprecision.com/longacr16a.htm

[Tiger]

How about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/String-Toe-Gauge-Wheel-Alignment-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el126 2QQcategoryZ43989QQihZ004QQitemZ140203017977

What I don't understand is how do you set up the string line...

[shogun]

Subject: 1 degree = 60 minutes (more)

Author: cheung1 as Patrick C 88 750 160K Posted on: 2008-07-08


Here is the long description of how I set up my alignment check with a laser balance and the measurements I worked with just as an example of the range of numbers you will tackle. I used one of the laser level like in URL below, seated it over a block of wood that just fit the wheel diameter. Tied both with elastic cord. Best is to use two sets of laser level and wood base on both front wheel so no risk to lose measurement.

I rolled the 750 up my driveway so the rear wheels just caught the one-inch step by the road going up the pedestrian walkway. The front wheels are approximately 1/3 way up the driveway. Then I mounted the laser level as described above. Now I rotate the level so the red laser dots were casted on the 1/2 inch step of concrete below my garage door, about 18 feet away from the front bumper.

By doing this I set up the geometry to measure the distance between two red dots at a distance far away from the wheels. Next I took a wood board 6 inch X 6 feet found in my garage and held it up near the front bumper with something steady, in my case two jack stands. The red dots were blocked and I marked their positions on the wood board. Below are my measurements one day after I had a $80 profession alignment job. Despite being careful to match the lengths of new and old left/right drag links the computed toe-in number was way off 18 degrees. If I didn't follow up with an alignment the wrong toe-in was gonna chew up my tires fast.

Distance of two red dots
far away at step below garage door (D1 not recorded)
Distance of two red dots on wood board (D2 not recorded)
Delta distance D2 - D1 = DeltaD = 2.6875 inches (recorded)
Note D2 > D1 for toe-in
Note the precision after decimal not needed, it's there only because I was translating from fraction of an inch to decimal.
Distance between garage door and wood board L1 = 215.625 inches

At this point computation to toe-in spec is by solving the right angle triangle. The long edge is L1, short edge is DeltaD/2 (for each of left and right wheels). The angle is therefore atan(DeltaD/2 /L1), expressed in minutes to compare to the spec of 18 min.

For such a tapered triangle, atan(theta) is almost equal to (theta) itself expressed in the unit of radian. So I am looking at 1.34/215.6
= 0.00623 was my amount of toe-in in unit of radians.
To convert radian to degrees you multiply by 180/pi
0.00623 * 180 / 3.1416 = 0.357 degrees.
0.357 X 60 = 21.4 minutes.

So this is my toe-in value--21.4 degrees. That compares favorably with the 18-minute spec and in fact the 750 steers well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90980

Patrick C 88 750 159K
the complete thread http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/548307

[632 Regal]

Okay forget all this madness.... so you drive straight onto these deals and park right on top right? Giving you the toe in/out reading right? then adjust from there? sheesh it's so simple I don't understand it... LOL


Have done it today again, who else is doing it?
We use this one
http://65.61.151.148/photos/G4008-2.jpg

[Tiger]

I am with you on this too...

[shogun]

and here how Gert does it

Alignment, yes you can do it too


=cheap laser level=
Alignment, yes you can do it too (reposted in one message) (http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/711044/)