Grinding noise on full lock

[leicesterboy15]

Hi All

I've finally sorted my wobble by getting all wheels balanced, 2 new front tyres and wheel alignment (as well as new upper and lower arms, sway bar links and tie rods!)

Now I'm getting a grinding noise on full lock. Its only when I am turning left on full lock (right on full lock is fine) and anything other than full lock is also fine. I've looked for any rubbing but can't see any, nothing has changed really to cause this, it started before I changed the tyres and got the alignment done and it only started happening a few weeks after the arms were replaced.

Are there any suggestions as to what it might be? It sounds like a wheel bearing but there's no noise when driving normally. Could it be bad sway bar links? As I was doing the lower arms I didn't remove the (new) links so they were getting stretched and moved about a bit, could they cause this? Or could an incorrectly installed arm cause this?

[Tiger]

Pull wheel off to see if any gringing on inner wheel side. If not, I'd suspect your tie-rod is bent.

[Jeff N.]

Do you have oversized tyres? Look for rubbing on the inner fender well, behind the tyre, on or around the front sway bar.

[EngPhys09]

Is it in your power steering system? It's not the belt slipping on the pully is it. Or is it distinctly tire rubbing?

[whiskychaser]

A bit off the wall, but if you have air in your system the pump may cavitate and make heck of a row. Worth a look?

[e34.535i.sport]

I had a noise when turning on full lock a while back when i changed the lower control arms. Did you torque the pivot bolt under load? I did but somehow ended up with a noise (seemed like a creak or groan to me) when on full lock right... I undone the pivot bolt, took the bush end out and replaced it all and torqued it back up... Noise disappeared. Worth a look?!

Hope you find the problem and its an easy fix... Keep us informed!

[leicesterboy15]

Well I had a look last night while a friend was turning the wheel and the whole front creaks as you turn the wheel, I couldn't quite make out where it was coming from but was definitely a mechanical component (not the pump), I'm wondering whether I should just replace all other steering components down there as well. What else is there (i've heard the pitman arm and idler arm?)?

It also looked like the grinding noise had turned into a squeaking noise (possibly due to the rain) and seemed like it was coming from the front left not front right, it looked like the tyre was rubbing against the strut at the top where the strut sort of starts to branch out. Although I think this may be a different noise and the rain had masked the other noise as the right side was totally quiet (apart from said creaking).

The lower arms were done under load but re-seating them is worth a shot (weather permitting!!). Its funny the PAS pump has been identified because I do have the odd steering problem where the steering gets heavy for a bit like its still PAS but less. I thought maybe it gets less assisted at speed and aspeed sensor had gone so it thought I was going faster than I was hence the heaver steering. Is that a load of rubbish? It also jerks sometimes when turning, hesitates for a bit then carries on as normal - only occasional. Also if I pull out of a side road quickly the steering feels reluctant to move quickly for a split second, doesn't inspire confidence! Is there anything to go inside a PAS pump? Could this be related to Self levelling suspension? Will this ever end? Maybe I should have kept my 535i....

I would just take it to a garage and get the front set up and steering sorted once and for all but I can't find one worth their salt or one who knows anything about e34s. If I take it to a garage that doesn't knows these cars they are just going to do what I would do and not add anything extra by way of experience. One garage even said to me they would do the MOT but not go near that engine! Even some of those that call themselves BMW specialists only do so because they can charge more than your usual mechanic as long as they charge less than the dealer - and they still know nothing! Anyone know of any decent garages in the south east or south west london?

[Tiger]

I would change out all the steering components... I recently bought the entire thing... and it was like only $160... a bit more for the Lemforder.

Creaking is usually dry ball joints... so yes, you gotta change them and the steering wheel would be much lighter after it is all changed.

[Ferret]

There's an excellent guy up in Reading - though there are some things they wont touch (like gearboxes.) He's one of these 'been in the game for years, has bits of bmws everywhere' types. Last time I went in there they were putting a v12 6.0 into a modern 5'er - so they're not afraid of certain jobs it would seem.

I think that the PAS pump juddering at low engine speeds is a sign that the belt is about to go out/your fluid needs changing...

The v8s idle so low that they have trouble keeping the alternator and PAS kicking over - I wouldnt worry about it. I do know that my 540 belt is on the way out though - if you drive through a lot of standing water it starts squealing :D

If you want the number of this garage give me a shout and I'll look it up for you.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that if I bring the clutch out and yank the steering wheel at the same time, I get a complete engine stall! Managed to do it this morning on the way to work :D

[Ross]

It could be the top strut mount also.

[E34-520iSE]

Hi Leicesterboy,
Have you re-tensioned or replaced the power steering belt? That can give off come really annoying sounds when worn, and can slip when driving through large puddles of water. I just bought a replacement one for my car yesterday, from euro car parts for less than £4, as mine is making a slight creaking sound. When on full lock either way I can hear my steering pump 'working', that's because the fluid is stalling the vanes, so the pulley starts to slip on the belt.
Oh, when was the last time your steering fluid was changed?

Cheers,

Shaun M

[leicesterboy15]

Thanks guys for all the responses..

Tiger....any chance of a list of components? Do I need to replace the whole arm (that the tie rods are attached to)? Is it just the pitman arm and idler arm or are there other bits? Are they simple nuts and bolts jobs and do I need re-aligning after?

Ferret...so you got a 540i /6 then? Any good? Want to swap your manual box for my auto? Must be a big change from the diesel! Are you skint yet?!!

Shaun - I haven't touched the steering at all (other than tie rods) and I've owned the car for around 18 months. Reading some of the posts on here changing the PAS fluid sounds like a nightmare and scares the **** out of me! Is it really that bad? Are there any good write ups anyone knows of (although i will do a search)? How hard is the belt? I suppose what I could do is retention the belt and see how that goes, if it sorts it then I suppose it means the belt is on the way out.

I am still surprised I have any rubbing though, I bought the car on 18s and had no rubbing, then went down to 17s (style 5s) and now I've got 18in Mpars (reps) but I'm sure they weren't rubbing before. Maybe the new arms and bushes have tightened things up.

I hate not having everything working properly. I'm from the house of 'if it's installed it should work' and it really annoys me when it doesn't, especially now its winter and its dark by the time I get home!

[Ferret]

Ferret...so you got a 540i /6 then? Any good? Want to swap your manual box for my auto?

Not a chance! *Guards 6 speed jealously* :D


Must be a big change from the diesel! Are you skint yet?!!

It's a hell of a difference - much better mannered as well - pulling away from 25mph in 6th gear is amazing. Though dropping anywhere from £40-£80 a week for the pleasure of driving 150-200 miles is a bit scary...

If I drive it sensibly I can get 200 miles out of £40/$80 petrol - if I drive it like a lunatic (as is becoming more common - I've just discovered the 'long, winding' backroute into work :D ) not a chance in hell. On the motorway it's doing better MPG than the TDS due to the fact there's no auto box to piss around with the gears all the time - managed to get back from bournemouth last week 110 miles on £14 petrol. Well impressed.

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Andy,glad you like it at last! Measure the steering arm thread protusion, it is possible that in the past it was tracked and now you have all the adjustment on one side,this gives you too much lock on one wheel. even if it catches on one wheel its bloody hard to see the rub.Flush and chane the fluid,can clear the pump of crap.

[leicesterboy15]

better miles from a 540 than a TDS, have you been at the crack again?! In that case I have to swap my auto, at the moment my arse gives me better gas than my car!