View Full Version : 82,000 mile update.
Sweetwater
01-19-2008, 10:57 AM
I'm currently driving a stock, mostly OEM 1995 530ia E34M60. The update is prompted by the need for another costly intervention by my local mechanic. He's an indy who does have BMW certification so my take is that he's relatively more expensive.
About 12 months ago, I had major coolant loss at 76K miles so the car went in for a water pump replacement which resulted is a few drips still under the front of the car. With the Utah weather dropping for the last 2 months, I've had bigger and bigger drips that are now puddles. The car requests coolant now at 200 mile increments.
Since there was a 2 year warranty on the water pump, it went back to the indy yesterday. Conclusion, it needs hoses and a new radiator. Probably I'm fortunate that it's lasted 13 years but I'm not impressed with the quality of a plastic radiator. Another $500 ding.
I also have a set of Bilstiens that can be installed but they're the OEM version, not the sports (which I don't need - remember, 6K miles a year) and I'll need brakes, rotors and pads in the next year or so....everything else, electronics, CD player, computer, works great and there is no rust on the car anywhere. Wondering how much longer to keep the car on the road till replacement....?
I also have a set of #4 stock honeycomb (yes I'm sure they're honeycomb) wheels with Traction TA's at 50% tread mounted (225/50/15). I'll sell them to the highest bidder (remember shipping). I'll post pictures and can send pictures when I see if it's worth my while. There is no curbing.
Great site, useful posts, thanks all.....
Sounds like you've had good service from the car. At 13 it's entitled to a fresh radiator. $500 is a stiff price for one though.
Rad replacement is an easy DIY. You can buy them for ~$200. Also buy the retaining clips from the dealer for a couple bucks more as they are likely to break. In fact with new ones in hand they aren't even worth trying to remove in one piece.
I say it sounds like a keeper.
Sweetwater
01-19-2008, 11:56 AM
Sounds like you've had good service from the car. At 13 it's entitled to a fresh radiator. $500 is a stiff price for one though.
Rad replacement is an easy DIY. You can buy them for ~$200. Also buy the retaining clips from the dealer for a couple bucks more as they are likely to break. In fact with new ones in hand they aren't even worth trying to remove in one piece.
I say it sounds like a keeper.
Ross,
Thanks for your thoughts...I'm a shade tree mechanic on my Beemer motorcycles...currently a K12RS and R1150GS but in the single digit temps here, I'm not one for a DIY on the cage. The reason for the low miles on the cage are higher miles on the bikes....
:D
artguy
01-19-2008, 12:46 PM
Post some picts if you can. How's your tranny working?
My '94 530i is still running good with 194,000 miles.
I just replaced my fuel pump and fuel sending unit.
I'm due for front and rear shocks and rotors soon. Brake pads need to be done sooner. In the spring probably a new set of tires.
I have very little rust compared to most Michigan vehicles.
If I were you...I'd keep her! :D
Sweetwater
01-19-2008, 01:14 PM
Post some picts if you can. How's your tranny working?
My '94 530i is still running good with 194,000 miles.
I just replaced my fuel pump and fuel sending unit.
I'm due for front and rear shocks and rotors soon. Brake pads need to be done sooner. In the spring probably a new set of tires.
I have very little rust compared to most Michigan vehicles.
If I were you...I'd keep her! :D
Tranny serviced 1.5 years ago (70K miles), filter and fluid, by a different indy. No issues since then.
I'm thinking of having the work done and letting the last son at home drive it for his senior year. These cars don't seem to like the winter and cold temps, how are you doing with electronics and starting during the winter months...?
artguy
01-20-2008, 03:46 PM
These cars don't seem to like the winter and cold temps, how are you doing with electronics and starting during the winter months...?
I haven't had any problems with starting. We have been in the 20's and 30's pretty regularly. Yesterday and today it was 5 above zero. (I think the car started better than I did...LOL).
My battery is about due for replacement because it is 8 years old. It pulled a 12.9 on the #9 OBC test a while back. But as you know, it is under the rear seat which I think helps prolong life.
The post: http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?p=282205#poststop
Haven't really had any electronic issues. A while back my outdoor temp sensor was dirty or something and registered -895 degrees F. That was interesting. But it only did it once and never since then.
Here's my post with a pict: http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=35789&highlight=absolute
Occasionally I get the message that my tail light or license plate light is out and it isn't. I've read here that the wiring in the trunk can become brittle or bent in some way from the trunk opening and shutting. I don't remember the specifics and I haven't looked into it yet either.
Here's a thread: http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=35534
I suppose I'm a little biased with these cars because I have always loved them. After I replaced my fuel pump and fuel sending unit and was driving again...I had the gnawing feeling, "what's next?"
I guess, for me, putting money into repairs is still ahead of a car payment with full coverage insurance every month. My car is old, I have to face that. I repair it because I like it and I still think it's worth it. Someday that may change.
repenttokyo
01-20-2008, 04:36 PM
I am interested in pics of the wheels and tires, please.
Rodericb
01-20-2008, 05:31 PM
This seems like a 530IA thread if I've ever seen one. I have a 95 530iA with 109K. On my way home from the store today, I noticed a coolant smell. Well once I pulled into my driveway, I noticed steam comming from under the hood. Now, the temperature guage never moved from the 12 o'clock position and just as I turned the car off, I got the coolant level warning. I opened the hood to find that one of my hoses had broken off from the auxillary water pump AKA heater valve. I'm going to replace the pump but was wondering if I will need to bleed the car at all once I refill the coolant. Has anyone had this problem?
Russell
01-20-2008, 05:41 PM
Sounds like normal stuff to me. Radiators need replacement at about 70,000 miles or so. Mine is about ready for it's third radiator. Brakes, rotors and strut replacements are normal. Just maintain and drive. :) These older cars just cost more to maintain than most newer asian cars.
Sweetwater
01-21-2008, 01:14 PM
I am interested in pics of the wheels and tires, please.
OK, but they were behind the kayak....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/baddabingg/P1210012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/baddabingg/P1210013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/baddabingg/P1210014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/baddabingg/P1210015.jpg
semiretired
01-21-2008, 01:24 PM
I'm currently driving a stock, mostly OEM 1995 530ia E34M60. The update is prompted by the need for another costly intervention by my local mechanic. He's an indy who does have BMW certification so my take is that he's relatively more expensive.
About 12 months ago, I had major coolant loss at 76K miles so the car went in for a water pump replacement which resulted is a few drips still under the front of the car. With the Utah weather dropping for the last 2 months, I've had bigger and bigger drips that are now puddles. The car requests coolant now at 200 mile increments.
Since there was a 2 year warranty on the water pump, it went back to the indy yesterday. Conclusion, it needs hoses and a new radiator. Probably I'm fortunate that it's lasted 13 years but I'm not impressed with the quality of a plastic radiator. Another $500 ding.
I also have a set of Bilstiens that can be installed but they're the OEM version, not the sports (which I don't need - remember, 6K miles a year) and I'll need brakes, rotors and pads in the next year or so....everything else, electronics, CD player, computer, works great and there is no rust on the car anywhere. Wondering how much longer to keep the car on the road till replacement....?
I also have a set of #4 stock honeycomb (yes I'm sure they're honeycomb) wheels with Traction TA's at 50% tread mounted (225/50/15). I'll sell them to the highest bidder (remember shipping). I'll post pictures and can send pictures when I see if it's worth my while. There is no curbing.
Great site, useful posts, thanks all.....
I did my radiator a few weeks ago for $200. Parts from BMA.com
Easy job
I just ordered a new replacement Behr today from a vendor on ebay that someone here posted...$158.00 shipped.
This will be the third, last one went in over 100k/7yrs ago, in 2001 before I bought the car/ (from manufacture date on a tag on the radiator)
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