my new beer can puller prototype

[shogun]

Yeahhh, have a look at the first 2 pics. No the cheapo mild steel, special hardened steel, can stand a torque of 15 tons :)
see the bearing too, and also the other goodies? A PRO-Tool, based on the ideas I had and made by my friend in Germany exclusively, no matter what the cost is.....:D
This weekend will be the first test run, then we might produce some more.
Fits for E32 and E34, with additional parts for E30 against extra price.
Price we still have to calculate, will not be cheap, more interesting for the indy shops instead of the one time user.
http://www.bilder-speicher.de/08012213264327.gratis-foto-hosting-page.html
http://www.bilder-speicher.de/08012213409220.gratis-foto-hosting-page.html

More pics will come after final test run, stay tune

[BigKriss]

Looks like a really nice set with your own personal engraving ! nice! I've tried this about three times on my car but I can never remove the subframe bush pins :( I use jackstands on the rear of the car and lift it up via the diff, but they never want to come out. even after i have banged with with a large hammer too :(

[Super90]

Is this the tool to pull the rear subframe bushings?

I rented a tool from Koala Motorsport a few years back. Mine came out like butter. No fuss, no muss. My credo on this is "replace early, and replace often". Then you won't get into big trouble.

YMMV

[whiskychaser]

My new bushes have been in the freezer for at least a month:) By the time it stops raining this kit will be in full production and reasonably priced:D

[Ferret]

My new bushes have been in the freezer for at least a month:) By the time it stops raining this kit will be in full production and reasonably priced:D

Haha you'll have more luck with a wet suit and snorkel than waiting for the weather to dry up :D

[Jehu]

Is there substantial danger driving with crunchy subframe bushings? i hear at least the right side one crunch when I launch hard from a stop I assume its cracked but can anything terrible happen other than the ride get a little sloppy? How about using Powerflex urethane replacements?

[Nick.Hay]

Shogun,

When will you be sending this tool around the world to forum members, so that they can replace their bushings??

[Jeff N.]

hehe...engraved even. The ultimate in subframe tools.

[shogun]

Shogun,

When will you be sending this tool around the world to forum members, so that they can replace their bushings??

Will probably be too heavy to send around the world. But here in Japan I will make it available for all members of our club for a small rental fee and a deposit refundable when they return it.

I still have another beer can puller tool I bought 2 years ago on German Ebay, fits for E30, E32 and E34. Not that super solid as our design now, but o.k. for the DIYer.
Never used. That I will sell first of all now. But probably shipping it out of Japan to USA will be too expensive.

The new tool: first of all it has to pass the final test. Of course it will not break like others, that is epcial steel, but maybe we can still find out and mke some minor changes for easier handling or so.
Then we will produce 4 sets.

And then I can tell you the price, if someone is interested.
But as I said before, intention to make this tool is not cheap price, but top quality and top handling. No matter what it costs for us.

[BigKriss]

I have a tool if you never need it.


Shogun,

When will you be sending this tool around the world to forum members, so that they can replace their bushings??

[shogun]

Is there substantial danger driving with crunchy subframe bushings? i hear at least the right side one crunch when I launch hard from a stop I assume its cracked but can anything terrible happen other than the ride get a little sloppy? How about using Powerflex urethane replacements?


I personally do not like the Powerflex Urethane replacements. Too hard.
Is there one at all for beer cans?
A good one from the Meyle HD range of products is perfect.


Failure syndromes:
• Rear clunk noise when you disengage the clutch on an upshift / down shift; especially an upshift. when accelerating; the subframe is pulled away from the chasis via the wheel torque. when you push the clutch in, the subframe unloads and hits the chassis creating the thunk.
• The rear of the car feeling like it steers itself. Probably best to do the rear pitman arms first before the subframe bushings if you have a self steering rear. or, at least have them inspected. If the pitman arms are good then this means the bushings are soft. No real way to inspect the bushings visually. however, if you support the subframe, you can easily remove the arm covering the bushing and see how torn it is.
http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/suspension/subframebushing.htm

[BigKriss]

can anyone here englighten me on how to remove the subframe pins?

[Jehu]

I personally do not like the Powerflex Urethane replacements. Too hard.
Is there one at all for beer cans?
A good one from the Meyle HD range of products is perfect.


Failure syndromes:
• Rear clunk noise when you disengage the clutch on an upshift / down shift; especially an upshift. when accelerating; the subframe is pulled away from the chasis via the wheel torque. when you push the clutch in, the subframe unloads and hits the chassis creating the thunk.
• The rear of the car feeling like it steers itself. Probably best to do the rear pitman arms first before the subframe bushings if you have a self steering rear. or, at least have them inspected. If the pitman arms are good then this means the bushings are soft. No real way to inspect the bushings visually. however, if you support the subframe, you can easily remove the arm covering the bushing and see how torn it is.
http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/suspension/subframebushing.htm

I know there are Powerflex urethanes for e36 and I thought I found them listed on their site for e34 also but I already have Sport Bilstiens in and M5 control arm bushings . I asked the person who mentioned he replaced with urethane weather they were hard .His reply was that he didn't think so but they squeak when he gets in and out of the car and you can't lubricate them so you have to live with that.. Rubber sounds good enough.

[whiskychaser]

can anyone here englighten me on how to remove the subframe pins?
Despite my remarks about the weather, I'm going to have to do mine very soon. I have bought new pins as I believe the normal procedure is just to 'drive' them up through the floor under the back seat. To be honest, I'd rather be driving them down through the floor so I could get a better swing with the lump hammer. It is said that soaking the pins (from the top) with penetrating oil may help. I have seen a procedure where you cut the old bushes out using 4 cutting strokes of a jig saw or sawzall in a square around the pin. You are then able to pull the centre of the bush out from around the pin. Two of the strokes are then continued through the bush outer so it breaks in half. You then pull the two 'C' shaped pieces out of the bottom. With this method you dont actually need to take the pins out at all. I dont have a puller so pins in/out the bushes are being cut out:D

[Jeff N.]

Remove the rear seat lower cushion.
Remove the bottom of the subframe bracket.
Put a throwaway nut on the end of the pin.
Get a 4lb sledge.
Hammer the pin firmly upwards.

The pin has knurls on the top part holding it in. Under the seat, there is a tar paper cover from the factory over the hole. Tear away the tar paper to see the top of the pin.

Installation is just the opposite. You'll need a big drift to set the pin down and



can anyone here englighten me on how to remove the subframe pins?

[BigKriss]

Thanks jeff, I will try it.


Remove the rear seat lower cushion.
Remove the bottom of the subframe bracket.
Put a throwaway nut on the end of the pin.
Get a 4lb sledge.
Hammer the pin firmly upwards.

The pin has knurls on the top part holding it in. Under the seat, there is a tar paper cover from the factory over the hole. Tear away the tar paper to see the top of the pin.

Installation is just the opposite. You'll need a big drift to set the pin down and

[shogun]

Back to the tool:
The material is high-tensile steel with approx 1300 N/mm2 :)

[whiskychaser]

Back to the tool:
The material is high-tensile steel with approx 1300 N/mm2 :)
Perhaps because 50% of me is german, I'm asking direct questions:
When is it available and how much does it cost delivered?
If I buy one and pass it on to other UK E34 owners (for a fee) wont that kill your sales?:(

[Russell]

very impresive looking. I do need to change mine.

[shogun]

Perhaps because 50% of me is german, I'm asking direct questions:
When is it available and how much does it cost delivered?
If I buy one and pass it on to other UK E34 owners (for a fee) wont that kill your sales?:(


That tool is actually intended to help for such cases. A good tool for a reasonable price for independant car shops, DIY car centers, tools rental shops etc.

A repair shop cannot come up with a cheap looking and easily breakable solution such as a sawzall etc.
So for such shops it is intended.
Purpose was to built one for me and him, priority: top quality. If he then still can sell it to others fine for him.

He told me that he will tell me the sales price today German time after calculating the cost. He also intends to make a videio of the part in action.
So if everything works as planned, you have it today German time online.
I can give you later his contact address for direct shipment and settlement from Germany.
Looks like on the German board for 7 series E32 and the E34 Forum some people are seriously interested to buy such a quality tool, for example Andre, who runs the used E34/E34 parts store and repairs them too. He also said, for customers he needs quality tools and not the DIY versions.

BTW: the same guy makes for me the pin extractors for the AMP-Tyco connectors on BMW
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/FausO/CIMG5224.jpg

[Booster]

Any chance you would forward the drawings of these parts so I could make a set for my garage use ?
Cheers,Vinny:)

[shogun]

Buy one set from us, and then you can duplicate it if you have the proper material and tools to make them.

But for your garage use I think it will be a bit expensive, there are cheaper versions available.
This is basically meant for pro shops, independant repair shops, DIY centers, tool rental shops etc.
Or for those who wish to have top tools in their garage, no matter what it costs and how often they are used.

[whiskychaser]

Buy one set from us, and then you can duplicate it if you have the proper material and tools to make them.

But for your garage use I think it will be a bit expensive, there are cheaper versions available.
This is basically meant for pro shops, independant repair shops, DIY centers, tool rental shops etc.
Or for those who wish to have top tools in their garage, no matter what it costs and how often they are used.
Franklin tool costs £100-£150 in UK. For a one-off use I think thats silly money. Found out today my dad (who is 82) has a BNIB sawzall lurking under his bed. No I dont know why either. Maybe I'm old fashioned but I would still rather pull the bushes out. Do we have a price yet?

[Booster]

Buy one set from us, and then you can duplicate it if you have the proper material and tools to make them.

But for your garage use I think it will be a bit expensive, there are cheaper versions available.
This is basically meant for pro shops, independant repair shops, DIY centers, tool rental shops etc.
Or for those who wish to have top tools in their garage, no matter what it costs and how often they are used.

I was just being cheap Shogun,lol:p . If I have the drawings (dims)...I can make a stainless set here at work on the lathe and mill etc.
I could avoid shipping fees too.
I guess everyone is wondering......."how much "
Cheers,Vinny

[genphreak]

Very nice work Erich, I'd like one... not sure I can afford it from what you are saying but let me know how much I'd need to send you. Stainless sounds like the way to go... Cheers, :) Nick

[shogun]

I am not selling it in other countries than Japan, as it will be too expensive.
Because the parcel will be approx. 6 kgs.
Price ex Germany from the producer of that tool:

Per set suitable for E34 and E32 250.00 Euro
additional price in case the parts for E30 should also be added: per set 60.00Euro!
So a complete set for E34, E32 and E30 will be 310.00 EURO.

Example for shipping to Australia:
Seaparcel 52.00 (no insurance)
Airparcel 94.00 EURO
Most expensive FedEx 315.00 EURO.
Paket International is 52.00 EURO and it states abt. 15 days, but from experience I know that it is seaparcel and to Japan it usually takes 5-6 weeks including customs clearance.
http://www.posttip.de/paket-rechner/ergebnis/index.html?Gewicht=6000&zone=18&laenge=35&Breite=25&Hoehe=15&format=top4&x=41&y=14

He does not accept Paypal so far, so the Paypal cost probably have to be added.
I think that price is too much for shipping abroad from Germany.
In addition please consider that you may have to pay import duty and VAT or whatever they call tax in your country.

The video will come in abt. 10 days, the producer is next week on a training course of his company, so he cannot make the video immy.