Speed Limiter on my e34 525i Touring

[bad_manners_god]

Hey folks. It's been awhile I've had this problem and I really ant to be rid of it.

The car is a 1992 e34 525i Touring

When I'm on the highway and going fast, as soon as I reach 170, a new messege appears on my computer screen says, "Max. 110mph"

And I also use to get an actual engine cut off at 205, but I Installed Dinan ECU chip and it went away.

From there, the climb to 200 is rather slow considering I'm in 4th at 4300rpm out of 7000rpm.

I never had this problem before. I was able to do 240+ with 5 people in the car. I'm not sure what the problem is exactly, but if anyone knows any computer reset's or something to get rid of the "max. 110mph" code.

[BMWDriver]

Well, I know the OBC can be set to chime when you go past a set speed (you set it). Other than that... can't help you with the engine.

[bad_manners_god]

Well, I know the OBC can be set to chime when you go past a set speed (you set it). Other than that... can't help you with the engine.

Yea, I set it to 260 in efforts of passing the damn limiter. The car will still acclerate but just not as quickly. I really need this code gone, I cant stand the fact that a simple vdub will get to 200 before me from a highway run which we all know how well Bmw's pull straight through to 200+

[Brandon J]

Hmm, well patience is a virtue.

Please tell us hwat modifications you have. Did you put the wheels on after the dinan chip? Are you using the correct fuel grade? What maintenance have you done to the car? etc.

The more info you give the easier it is to help you.

[bad_manners_god]

Hmm, well patience is a virtue.

Please tell us hwat modifications you have. Did you put the wheels on after the dinan chip? Are you using the correct fuel grade? What maintenance have you done to the car? etc.

The more info you give the easier it is to help you.

I've had this problem for a really long time, almost as long as I can remember. I original bought the chip in hopes of removing the limiter but no avail. I have Regular fuel most of the time, every 2 weeks, I drive it till it's almost empty and fill up with supreme to clean out the lines, injectors, etc. Here is a list of maintence I've done: (Note: I had this problem before ANY of this maintence was performed)

-New Upper Control Arms
-New Lower Control Arms
-New Cross member
-New Stabilizer Bars
-New Tie Rod Assemblies
-Rear Self-Leveling Delete
-Bored Intake Manifold
-Bored Throttle Body
-Custom Cold Air Intake
-DINAN Performance Chip
-DINAN Transmission Chip
-Fan Shroud Delete
-New Head Gasket
-New NKG Spark Plugs
-New Oil Pan
-New Oil Pan Gasket
-New Radiator
-New Thermostat
-New Thermostat Housing + Gasket
-New Valve Cover Gasket
-Polished Piston Heads and Valves

[Ross]

Since 170km roughly correlates to 110 mph I'm guessing the OBC is doing the conversion and displaying the reminder. If accompanied by the gong this is simply the resettable speed warning and does nothing to limit performance.
Supposedly the BM speed limiter takes effect at 155mph, this is moot with 2.5 liters.
240+ km with 5 on board? How long until you and your pals are scraped up with a shovel?
Scram all the "mods" and I'll bet the performance improves.

[bad_manners_god]

Since 170km roughly correlates to 110 mph I'm guessing the OBC is doing the conversion and displaying the reminder. If accompanied by the gong this is simply the resettable speed warning and does nothing to limit performance.
Supposedly the BM speed limiter takes effect at 155mph, this is moot with 2.5 liters.
240+ km with 5 on board? How long until you and your pals are scraped up with a shovel?
Scram all the "mods" and I'll bet the performance improves.

Scram?

I was doing 250 with 7 on board actually racing a supra non-turbo on the highway out-pulling him.

When the messege comes on, I hear the ding and then it starts accelerating slowly but I was able to get it up to 220, took almost 2 minutes from 175

[Ross]

The message should read "You are driving like a fool"

[bad_manners_god]

The message should read "You are driving like a fool"

It should, but it doesn't.

Anyway, now that you mention the OBC, I remember that it had been changed at some-point because the screen was half inked out like a broken calculator screen so it was changed but it wasn't me that had changed it. Could it be that's the problem, that the changed obc was incorrect serial number or the obc is deffective?

[Dave M]

It should, but it doesn't.

Anyway, now that you mention the OBC, I remember that it had been changed at some-point because the screen was half inked out like a broken calculator screen so it was changed but it wasn't me that had changed it. Could it be that's the problem, that the changed obc was incorrect serial number or the obc is deffective?

Regardless of whether the OBC was changed/defective, it would have no bearing on the cars ability to exceed a certain speed. Your problem(s) ;) lie elsewhere.

Is it getting hot in here?

Dave M

[Jon K]

Dude honestly if you bored your intake manifold you probably screwed up the flow - the OBD1 intake manifold is proven to outflow an OBD2, and is portmatched - it's dead on gasket match. Not sure why you'd port that.

Boring the throttle body has a questionable effect as well.

As for polishing piston tops and valves? Thats a new one to me. Do it yourself cold air intakes usually hurt performance - I know this for a fact and have gone from stock to bolt ons then to a custom CAI which hurt my performance, to supercharged, back to stock, then to CAI again, hurt my performance again, etc. Put the factory airbox in and replace the intake manifold and throttle body with a standard one and I bet you'll notice better performance.

[bad_manners_god]

Dude honestly if you bored your intake manifold you probably screwed up the flow - the OBD1 intake manifold is proven to outflow an OBD2, and is portmatched - it's dead on gasket match. Not sure why you'd port that.

Boring the throttle body has a questionable effect as well.

As for polishing piston tops and valves? Thats a new one to me. Do it yourself cold air intakes usually hurt performance - I know this for a fact and have gone from stock to bolt ons then to a custom CAI which hurt my performance, to supercharged, back to stock, then to CAI again, hurt my performance again, etc. Put the factory airbox in and replace the intake manifold and throttle body with a standard one and I bet you'll notice better performance.

Well, what I did was just stick a clean rag and clean out the grim and dirt that had built up.

The pistons heads/valves were done with a 3" steel brush on a drill, mostly to clean off all the caked on stuff.

[Brandon J]

I've had this problem for a really long time, almost as long as I can remember. I original bought the chip in hopes of removing the limiter but no avail. I have Regular fuel most of the time, every 2 weeks, I drive it till it's almost empty and fill up with supreme to clean out the lines, injectors, etc. Here is a list of maintence I've done: (Note: I had this problem before ANY of this maintence was performed)

-New Upper Control Arms
-New Lower Control Arms
-New Cross member
-New Stabilizer Bars
-New Tie Rod Assemblies
-Rear Self-Leveling Delete
-Bored Intake Manifold
-Bored Throttle Body
-Custom Cold Air Intake
-DINAN Performance Chip
-DINAN Transmission Chip
-Fan Shroud Delete
-New Head Gasket
-New NKG Spark Plugs
-New Oil Pan
-New Oil Pan Gasket
-New Radiator
-New Thermostat
-New Thermostat Housing + Gasket
-New Valve Cover Gasket
-Polished Piston Heads and Valves
I have done almost everything naturally aspirated (w/o stroking) to the M50tu when I had that engine. Your throttle body didn't need to be bigger. I did M3 cams, 3 custom chips, flywheel, diff, custom intake, 540 MAF, etc. You don't need the larger TB and why did you delete the fan shroud. The shroud helps the radiator cool. If you have had this car and there has been a problem for a while, perhaps you got some bad gas one time and sucked some dirt into the fuel filter. This could limit the fuel you need for the load at those higher speeds. The fuel filter is on the list of maintenance things. The next thing I would check is the intake and MAF. If you are using an oil based high flow air filter, over time the oil on the filter can go onto the MAF sensor affecting its reading. If these are not the problems, then you might want to keep an eye on the fuel pump as they can go slowly or completely at once.

Here is another thing I would check. You say you have polished pistons and valves, and you increased the throttle body bore, did you add the extra fuel. Your car could be running lean and the computer could be trying to compensate. It can only do so much so you would need a new custom chip with the appropriate fuel pulse, timing, and flow. You got the head work done, you should have done more homework and known to get a custom chip or increase the fuel too. The '92 m50 engines don't have knock sensors like the '93 and up M50tu engines. So, if you are running lean and there is pinging, the computer will not tell you. Make sure you don't have any pinging from a lean condition. Go through a tunnel to hear the engine while driving under load.

I hope you do find the culprit as it looks like you are trying to make a very nice touring there. Good Luck and I hope the information here helps you out.

[bad_manners_god]

I have done almost everything naturally aspirated (w/o stroking) to the M50tu when I had that engine. Your throttle body didn't need to be bigger. I did M3 cams, 3 custom chips, flywheel, diff, custom intake, 540 MAF, etc. You don't need the larger TB and why did you delete the fan shroud. The shroud helps the radiator cool. If you have had this car and there has been a problem for a while, perhaps you got some bad gas one time and sucked some dirt into the fuel filter. This could limit the fuel you need for the load at those higher speeds. The fuel filter is on the list of maintenance things. The next thing I would check is the intake and MAF. If you are using an oil based high flow air filter, over time the oil on the filter can go onto the MAF sensor affecting its reading. If these are not the problems, then you might want to keep an eye on the fuel pump as they can go slowly or completely at once.

Here is another thing I would check. You say you have polished pistons and valves, and you increased the throttle body bore, did you add the extra fuel. Your car could be running lean and the computer could be trying to compensate. It can only do so much so you would need a new custom chip with the appropriate fuel pulse, timing, and flow. You got the head work done, you should have done more homework and known to get a custom chip or increase the fuel too. The '92 m50 engines don't have knock sensors like the '93 and up M50tu engines. So, if you are running lean and there is pinging, the computer will not tell you. Make sure you don't have any pinging from a lean condition. Go through a tunnel to hear the engine while driving under load.

I hope you do find the culprit as it looks like you are trying to make a very nice touring there. Good Luck and I hope the information here helps you out.

I should clear up the fact, that I didn't bore anything, I cleaned it out with a clean rag. The Pistons and Valves we're just cleaned with a heavy duty steel brush.

[Jon K]

Brandon he def does not need new management for those little cleaning actions he's done. M50 doesn't have the knock sensors but its also 10.0:1 CR vs 10.5:1 CR, so its more conservative anyway.


But your post above says ported manifold and bored throttle body...

[bad_manners_god]

Brandon he def does not need new management for those little cleaning actions he's done. M50 doesn't have the knock sensors but its also 10.0:1 CR vs 10.5:1 CR, so its more conservative anyway.


But your post above says ported manifold and bored throttle body...

Yea, thats was from my word file as I kept track of things I've done, before I actually knew what polish, stroke and bore meant.

I'm going to buy a new obc and hopefully that will cure the problem

[Dave M]

Yea, thats was from my word file as I kept track of things I've done, before I actually knew what polish, stroke and bore meant.

I'm going to buy a new obc and hopefully that will cure the problem

Unless you're buying one to cure your buggered display, don't waste your money.

Does anyone here believe the OBC could responsible?????????

Dave M

[dacoyote]

Unless you're buying one to cure your buggered display, don't waste your money.

Does anyone here believe the OBC could responsible?????????

Dave M

I believe in unicorns... and that Harry Potter is real... but I don't think the OBC could cause the primary issue here...

[repenttokyo]

Scram?

I was doing 250 with 7 on board actually racing a supra non-turbo on the highway out-pulling him.

When the messege comes on, I hear the ding and then it starts accelerating slowly but I was able to get it up to 220, took almost 2 minutes from 175

a supra non turbo is pretty damn slow, and my 91 M50 is also pretty damn slow, there's really not much that it will outpull on the highway even with a 5 speed, if you want a rocketship, without significant mods i think you are in the wrong car.

Of course, if you are the kind of guy who does 250 with 7 people in the car, I doubt anything anyone says will get through to you in any case.

BTW, my car is chipped too, and yeah, it's still not fast.

[repenttokyo]

Well, what I did was just stick a clean rag and clean out the grim and dirt that had built up.

The pistons heads/valves were done with a 3" steel brush on a drill, mostly to clean off all the caked on stuff.

....that's not what polishing means. how much of your valves were ground off doing this?

[Jon K]

Its rather difficult to remove metal from a valve with a wire brush on a drill. I've used this. But none the less this is not what it means to polish and "boring" is not cleaning with a rag. Very confusing.

[bad_manners_god]

....that's not what polishing means. how much of your valves were ground off doing this?

0.000000000001% maybe, A simple 3" wire bit on a drill to clean the buil up on the valves from the 15 years in darkness.

Dave M: I wasnt the person who changed the OBC on my car. Could the OBC be the problem if they have different serial numbers like a computer ECU?


Jon: I know the difference, I had just copy/pasted from my mods list that I hadnt looked at in awhile.

[BMWDriver]

Call Dinan, see what they say about it. And, no, the OBC does not control the engine nor have any effect on it. It reports certain things like mileage per gallon, time travelled, time to destination, current speed, etc. The Dinan chip does control it however.

Perhaps since you often drive in a lively fashion, your engine is wearing up. Race engines tend not to last. Perhaps the head or valves need some readjusting.

[bad_manners_god]

Call Dinan, see what they say about it. And, no, the OBC does not control the engine nor have any effect on it. It reports certain things like mileage per gallon, time travelled, time to destination, current speed, etc. The Dinan chip does control it however.

Perhaps since you often drive in a lively fashion, your engine is wearing up. Race engines tend not to last. Perhaps the head or valves need some readjusting.

Thing is, before the Dinan chip, I had an actually engine cut-off at 205 where the engine would actually stop putting out power and slow the car down to about 195 before it ressumed putting out power. After the Chip, the 205 limiter went away but I still have this damn chime that comes on at 110mph.


Would a program like CarSoft6.5 be able to tell me what the problem is?

[repenttokyo]

Thing is, before the Dinan chip, I had an actually engine cut-off at 205 where the engine would actually stop putting out power and slow the car down to about 195 before it ressumed putting out power.



it was cutting the fuel injectors. that's what engine limiters do.

[bad_manners_god]

it was cutting the fuel injectors. that's what engine limiters do.

Ok, but that problem is gone now, now it just takes forever to pass 190+ when it use to cruise through to 240 easily.

[repenttokyo]

Ok, but that problem is gone now, now it just takes forever to pass 190+ when it use to cruise through to 240 easily.

it wasn't a "problem", it was the function of the speed limiter, which the Dinan chip raised. The reason your car takes forever to get to 240 is because it is quite heavy and makes less than 200 horsepower and not very much torque, going through a power robbing automatic transmission. Also, keep in mind that that is an 'indicated' 240, and the speedometer isn't all that accurate at high speeds.

Question: are you testing out your new dinan top speed on winter tires in a winter climate?

[bad_manners_god]

it wasn't a "problem", it was the function of the speed limiter, which the Dinan chip raised. The reason your car takes forever to get to 240 is because it is quite heavy and makes less than 200 horsepower and not very much torque, going through a power robbing automatic transmission. Also, keep in mind that that is an 'indicated' 240, and the speedometer isn't all that accurate at high speeds.

Question: are you testing out your new dinan top speed on winter tires in a winter climate?

Lol, no, not in winter.

I agree, its an automatic, it's heavy and makes less than 200 to the wheels. but something isnt right when it would go 240 no problem and then it has a hard time getting past 200.

[attack eagle]

It's the anti ricer feature. Were your blue washer lights on? Could be why.
Take it back to stock.


1: where did this 'Dinan' chip come from? I believe you originally referred to as a "chip" that you got off the internet (implication ebay and possibly the cause of your problems FWIW)

http://usera.imagecave.com/badmannersgod/my_car_pics/DSC00215.JPG

2: listening to you wind the snot out of your engine to 7k in every gear in your youtube videos, I wouldn't be surprised if it was time for engine work. it doesn't sound healthy especially on the topend after you put the chip in.

3: are you sure you hooked all the vacuum lines back up right?

4: it's an automatic for pete's sake. Got your money saved for repair/replace when it inevitably blows up?

5: you already lost your license and car once... why don't you just slow down?

Or else this will be you:

http://www.metacafe.com/fplayer/725648/fatal_e30_crash.swf

http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/577074d.jpg

[bad_manners_god]

Listen, you can lecture me all you want, but I have a father and I get enough of it from him, I don't need someone on the other side of a computer to tell me to slow down, I know my limits and my cars limits, just leave it at that.

The problem with my limiter is that it has been like this for a very long time, even before I started modifing it.

The chip in question that I currently have installed is a true Dinan chip, the one I previously installed was a no-name and made my check engine light come on, the Dinan Engine chip doesnt make the engine like come on.

When I changed my head gasket, I made a checklist/diagrams of things I took off while I was doing it and I double checked them all when I put them back. Also again, this limiter was there even before I changed my head gasket.

When I bought the Dinan Engine Chip, it came with the Dinan Transmission Chip that I installed in the Transmission Control Box located in the Passenger Speaker Panel Kick-Down.

[attack eagle]

what is your compression?

have you returned the car to stock to see if your mods are the problem?

have you replaced plugs filters etc?

Dyno'd the car to see if there are any issues that show up while testing while observing the a/f ratio?

Done anything other than ask people to make WAG as to what your issue that keeps you from running 160 mph when most folks rarely exceed 120?

Father mode on:
Sorry mate, but even 120 on a public road is begging for Darwinism, much less trying to drive 150mph in a 60-70 mph zone... it's about the same Idea as driving 80 in a residential area.

Remember the distance to stop rises with the SQUARE of velocity... so 120 = about 4x as far as 60, 150 = about 6.5 x as far as 60... if the brakes can even handle it without fading... so instead of 120 feet you are looking at 800+ feet.

if you knew your limits and your car's limits, you would not be talking about running 150 in a wagon on public roads. So what if a moron in a Vw goes faster? he'll die that much quicker too. Like you said, you are 20, and you've been driving since you were 16. By your own admission, you are a novice driver, and I'm asking you nicely, to listen to someone who has been driving as long as you have been alive, and please keep your speeds down. I know not speeding is a ridiculous request, given your age and attitude, but keep it under 100. OK?

[bad_manners_god]

what is your compression?

have you returned the car to stock to see if your mods are the problem?

have you replaced plugs filters etc?

Dyno'd the car to see if there are any issues that show up while testing while observing the a/f ratio?

Done anything other than ask people to make WAG as to what your issue that keeps you from running 160 mph when most folks rarely exceed 120?

Father mode on:
Sorry mate, but even 120 on a public road is begging for Darwinism, much less trying to drive 150mph in a 60-70 mph zone... it's about the same Idea as driving 80 in a residential area.

Remember the distance to stop rises with the SQUARE of velocity... so 120 = about 4x as far as 60, 150 = about 6.5 x as far as 60... if the brakes can even handle it without fading... so instead of 120 feet you are looking at 800+ feet.

if you knew your limits and your car's limits, you would not be talking about running 150 in a wagon on public roads. So what if a moron in a Vw goes faster? he'll die that much quicker too. Like you said, you are 20, and you've been driving since you were 16. By your own admission, you are a novice driver, and I'm asking you nicely, to listen to someone who has been driving as long as you have been alive, and please keep your speeds down. I know not speeding is a ridiculous request, given your age and attitude, but keep it under 100. OK?

From everything as far as suggestions go, the only thing I havent done is the fuel filter. I'll open Mitchell tomorrow, locate it and replace it.

I don't really have access to a Dyno Machine in my area.

Not to sound like I didn't understand a word of what you said, the brakes can handle it, they're not Brembo Big Brakes but They're Cross Drilled and I have PBR Organic Pads.

Apart from that, I appreciate your concerns and understand where your coming from.

[attack eagle]

honestly mate, the only way to see what it is doing at that speed or not, will be on a dyno.

[repenttokyo]

if you changed your headgasket yourself, i would start by checking there.

[bad_manners_god]

if you changed your headgasket yourself, i would start by checking there.

Wow, this is going to be the 4th or 5th time I repeat this. I've had this problem for a very very very very long time. Before I changed ANYTHING to do with the engine.

This is why I'm having such a hard time figuring out what the problem is.

[repenttokyo]

so the car got slower and slower, and then you went out and did the mods, and then it kept getting slower and slower? is that what you are saying?

I can tell you that the slow acceleration you are experiencing has nothing to do with a speed limiter. that is not how they work. the problem is somewhere else. I would say your engine is tired, and there could be a lot of things causing this, or even a lot of things acting together all at once.

[bad_manners_god]

so the car got slower and slower, and then you went out and did the mods, and then it kept getting slower and slower? is that what you are saying?

I can tell you that the slow acceleration you are experiencing has nothing to do with a speed limiter. that is not how they work. the problem is somewhere else. I would say your engine is tired, and there could be a lot of things causing this, or even a lot of things acting together all at once.

The engine itself is not lacking power, something is restricting it.

Here is a Scenario:

I'm on the highway, doing about 95mph, I go full kick-down and push the button under the gas pedal. The transmission downshifts to 3rd and accelerates with ease to 6,250, shifts into 4th at 105 mph. At this point I get a chime and Cluster reads: "max. 110mph" from there on and ONLY from there on does it climb slowly.

The engine is in great shape and doesnt lack power except once this restriction kicks in. If I havent figured out the problem by summer, I'll video tape it while I do it so people understand what I mean.

[repenttokyo]

Did you do any searching about tihs problem? Here are a whole bunch of answers for you regarding the message you are getting:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=58780


The 110mph limit is suggested by the manual if there's a ride height problem to protect the tyres. Ride height or SLS failure is triggered by the height sensor switch linked to the right rear trailing arm. I had this problem for some time before I traced it to a broken wire. It could be that a dose of prolonged acceleration caused the ride height to drop sufficiently (and long enough) for the warning to be triggered.

The sensor is not adjustable (but the ride height is). If the problem persists disconnect the height sensor arm (from the suspension arm) and lock it in the calibration position (there's provision for this) and see if it goes away.

There are many other solutions present on that link as well. It was the first ting that appeared when i typed 'max. 110mph' into ask.com

It all seems to indicate wiring and sensor problems. Since there are no automatic M5's, it's possible that there is something in YOUR transmission that gets a bad reading, (maybe speed sensor?) when the suspension causes this error fault.

[repenttokyo]

Here is some more information:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=206042&postcount=6


[It sounds to me like you have...

a) a faulty (or poorly adjusted) height sensor (on the rear suspension)

b) a wiring fault ,which i'd lay money (or a beer) on it being in the
same place as i had.

c) tired accumulators....did the dealer touch these ? however the
car would be low at the rear this being the case.

Are you mechanically minded ?

As checking the wiring requires jacking up the car and getting under the rear of it.

You need to release the loom as it is clipped to the underneath
of the car all the way across to the:

fuel pump,levelling sensor, speed sensor (diff) and shocks.

My problem was shorted wires, caused by chaffing & moisture
build up.It caused the EDC to default to Sport & the speedo
started to die !!

Once i released the loom, removed the insulation & repaired the
wires, everything was restored to perfect working order.

[bad_manners_god]

Here is some more information:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=206042&postcount=6

WOW, this must be the problem.

I have already deleted the SLS Mechanical parts. I never noticed any wiring relating to it. Is there a way to bypass the SLS system? Like loop back the wires together?

GREAT FIND...I'm so putting my car on the lift tomorrow and poking around these wires.

[attack eagle]

I've already got you covered on deleting the message...
you don't even need to get under the car.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31803&highlight=Suspn

the hydraulic valve is on the driver's side and actuated thru the sway bar. Irrelevant since you have looped the hoses.

the electronic sensor is just ahead of the right trailing arm and connected with a rod to it. but you don't need to mod it either. IF it was lower you'd probably get teh SUSPN LEVL message (forget the exact spelling, been more than a year since I got rid of the message)

[bad_manners_god]

I've already got you covered on deleting the message...
you don't even need to get under the car.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31803&highlight=Suspn

the hydraulic valve is on the driver's side and actuated thru the sway bar. Irrelevant since you have looped the hoses.

the electronic sensor is just ahead of the right trailing arm and connected with a rod to it. but you don't need to mod it either. IF it was lower you'd probably get teh SUSPN LEVL message (forget the exact spelling, been more than a year since I got rid of the message)

I get the messege "SUSPN LVLING" after driving 2kms.

So, All I have to do is locate pin 12 and pin 13 and put a wire between them? Thats what I understood from it. I'm actually learning Electrical systems in my Auto-Mech school since monday, but we're still at the basic's, Volts, Amps, Ohms, etc

[attack eagle]

yessir. And yeah it is normal and correct for the message not to come on until you have bee ndriving for a few minutes.

[bad_manners_god]

yessir. And yeah it is normal and correct for the message not to come on until you have bee ndriving for a few minutes.

Wow, a were wire causes so much computer error.

The 21 pin connector I'm looking for is going to be in plan view when I remove my rear seats next to my battery or next to my Fuse Box, Speaker Wires, etc/

[attack eagle]

correct. it will be in/under/near that huge bundle of wires between the battery and the door frame, and probably attached to the metal.

[bad_manners_god]

correct. it will be in/under/near that huge bundle of wires between the battery and the door frame, and probably attached to the metal.

Perfect, lots of room to work there. I appreciate all your help.

BTW, I took out the Wiper LED's a while ago....they freeze in winter and crack. So I found a pair ooff a Benz and customized them to fit. They work better than the walmart ones...lol.

And the only things that are blue in terms of lights are the 7000K Angel Eyes and the Side Markers/Mirror but only when using the turn signals.

[attack eagle]

That's cool, I'm mellowing out. Or at least trying to. :)

Glad I could help you out, if you don't have a multimeter, it is one tool EVERY touring owner should buy (hatch harnesses).

[bad_manners_god]

That's cool, I'm mellowing out. Or at least trying to. :)

Glad I could help you out, if you don't have a multimeter, it is one tool EVERY touring owner should buy (hatch harnesses).

Whats does the hatch harness need a multimeter for?

[attack eagle]

because they fail... inevitably.

[Paul in NZ]

just to reiterate ,the OBC message wont be affecting your speed.Do you have a CAI?And you dont have a fan shroud..could hot air of the engine be entering your CAI intake?Did it have the intake when you got it?Did the fan shroud or CAI predate the slow accelleration..Have you had new tyres or wheels prioer to the slower accelleration????

[bad_manners_god]

just to reiterate ,the OBC message wont be affecting your speed.Do you have a CAI?And you dont have a fan shroud..could hot air of the engine be entering your CAI intake?Did it have the intake when you got it?Did the fan shroud or CAI predate the slow accelleration..Have you had new tyres or wheels prioer to the slower accelleration????

It's not a true CAI for a manufactor, I customized it myself, Here is a pic:

Don't really remember anything to do with the wheels/tires.

The shroud was forcing all of the fans power directly on the engine and put the engine under more stress

[repenttokyo]

The shroud was forcing all of the fans power directly on the engine and put the engine under more stress

how did you come to that conclusion?

[repenttokyo]

just to reiterate ,the OBC message wont be affecting your speed.Do you have a CAI?And you dont have a fan shroud..could hot air of the engine be entering your CAI intake?Did it have the intake when you got it?Did the fan shroud or CAI predate the slow accelleration..Have you had new tyres or wheels prioer to the slower accelleration????


http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showpost.php?p=288495&postcount=39

[Dave M]

just to reiterate ,the OBC message wont be affecting your speed.Do you have a CAI?And you dont have a fan shroud..could hot air of the engine be entering your CAI intake?Did it have the intake when you got it?Did the fan shroud or CAI predate the slow accelleration..Have you had new tyres or wheels prioer to the slower accelleration????


Further to this,

last post in this thread contains the following (http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=58780):


EDC PROBLEM....

By the sounds of it you have the beginnings of a wiring problem which
affects EDC M5's.
It happened to mine a few years ago after which I repaired the wires myself.

My symptoms were pretty tame, I lost the speedo reading once, and then the dampers defaulted to firm all the time.
Turns out there is a weak point in the wiring loom location as it leaves the car (behind the rear seat near the battery) and exits upwards (outside, under the floor) over the rear subframe.
The wiring harness contains EVERYTHING for the rear end...ABS, SPEEDO FEED, SLS HEIGHT SENSOR, FUEL PUMP and of course the EDC control...

Basically the loom flexes and rubs against the rear subframe causing wires to short out.
Depending on how severe the problem becomes you may just loose your speedo or edc control, but the potential for a nasty little loom cook is there.....

Wouldn't it be interesting if, due to speedo error, all this time you thought you were only accelerating to 120-130, when you were really going 140-150 ;) Super cool.

Dave M

[Alexlind123]

Regardless of whether the OBC was changed/defective, it would have no bearing on the cars ability to exceed a certain speed. Your problem(s) ;) lie elsewhere.

Is it getting hot in here?

Dave M

Exactly as i would have said. Obviously its not limiting the speed, and do you really believe that the OBC could limit your acceleration? Im not sure youre (mentally) up to the task of operating such a machine in any case.

[Brandon J]

Brandon he def does not need new management for those little cleaning actions he's done. M50 doesn't have the knock sensors but its also 10.0:1 CR vs 10.5:1 CR, so its more conservative anyway.


But your post above says ported manifold and bored throttle body...

Well, I posted my suggestions before he cleared that the valves were not polished. I did post other maintenance items and the concern for the intake.

[Brandon J]

Okay,

So I guess you have some more work to do as far as understanding what is actually wrong and then not omitting that from your lost of things. Also, if so many other people are finding topics related to this, then you can do it yourself too. This is a Do It Yourself forum, not do it for me.That also means you have describe well what is happening to your car. Oh, and why would you want to buy an OBC before a known needed maintenance item like the fuel filter? How old are you?

[repenttokyo]

it's clear that he is young dude, but there's not age requirement when buying a car, particularly old cars like ours.

[bad_manners_god]

Okay,

So I guess you have some more work to do as far as understanding what is actually wrong and then not omitting that from your lost of things. Also, if so many other people are finding topics related to this, then you can do it yourself too. This is a Do It Yourself forum, not do it for me.That also means you have describe well what is happening to your car. Oh, and why would you want to buy an OBC before a known needed maintenance item like the fuel filter? How old are you?

I'm 20, and the fuel filter is the only thing I haven't maintained, slipped my mind.

In any case, I connected pin 12 to pin 13, so once my car is done and out of the grage ill be able to test it to see the SUSPN LVLING messege is gone as well as the limiter.

Dave M: I thought that I might have been getting a faulty speedo when the problem first started so I got my friend in his GTi to cruise next to me at the speed i was at, and his read exactly mine. +/-5 km.

Alexlind123: Why not, OBC stands for On-board computer...last time I checked, the computers in the car control everything, so why not a limiter.

[Dave M]

Dave M: I thought that I might have been getting a faulty speedo when the problem first started so I got my friend in his GTi to cruise next to me at the speed i was at, and his read exactly mine. +/-5 km.

Well, it was worth a try.


Alexlind123: Why not, OBC stands for On-board computer...last time I checked, the computers in the car control everything, so why not a limiter.

A DME or ECU is the 'computer that manages the engine'. I started typing its whereabouts, but realized you're quite familiar with it as you've swapped chips. This is the only puter that matters.

The OBC simply displays 'stuff' thats occuring. I think of it as a way to keep me occupied on long trips, no more, no less. If it could make the car get better gas mileage, provide sexual favors or cook pizza, I'd be all over it..........

[bad_manners_god]

Well, it was worth a try.



A DME or ECU is the 'computer that manages the engine'. I started typing its whereabouts, but realized you're quite familiar with it as you've swapped chips. This is the only puter that matters.

The OBC simply displays 'stuff' thats occuring. I think of it as a way to keep me occupied on long trips, no more, no less. If it could make the car get better gas mileage, provide sexual favors or cook pizza, I'd be all over it..........

Sexual favors, that would be a OBW (On-Board Whore) LOL

[Paul in NZ]

Sexual favors, that would be a OBW (On-Board Whore) LOL
in which case the OBC would go....DING! <condom?> <owners manual> not lock the back doors so you cant get in the back!

[BMWDriver]

Lol !

I remember the technical data on the 525i saying the top (limited) speed is at 205 km/h for Canada. The theoretical top speed without limiter is 220 km/h, but that's on a sedan, and concerns the pre-vanos M50 engine outputing 189hp. Manufacture date 09/92 and on have the Vanos and other quaint updates such as wider mirrors. How much more vanos gives, or Dinan chip...

You can get accurate speed readings with the OBC by entering codes, but you first have to unlock it. Search this forum for OBC Codes. But if you don't have the 16" or 15" wheels mounted, the readings will be off. 17 inches is a bit off spec, nevermind 18 or 19 inches.

It's a fact that the speedos are intentionnaly off by 5-10 percent as per regulations, and off in that they show higher speeds than actual.

Have fun !

[bad_manners_god]

Lol !

I remember the technical data on the 525i saying the top (limited) speed is at 205 km/h for Canada. The theoretical top speed without limiter is 220 km/h, but that's on a sedan, and concerns the pre-vanos M50 engine outputing 189hp. Manufacture date 09/92 and on have the Vanos and other quaint updates such as wider mirrors. How much more vanos gives, or Dinan chip...

You can get accurate speed readings with the OBC by entering codes, but you first have to unlock it. Search this forum for OBC Codes. But if you don't have the 16" or 15" wheels mounted, the readings will be off. 17 inches is a bit off spec, nevermind 18 or 19 inches.

It's a fact that the speedos are intentionnaly off by 5-10 percent as per regulations, and off in that they show higher speeds than actual.

Have fun !

Right now, I have 17's but will be upgrading to 18's after I lower it and summer is in full swing.

My speedo was pretty accurate when I went to Washington with a GPS TomTom saying I was doing 150kmh and I was doing 150 on the line with cruise control.

So I can unlock my OBC to give me real-time accurate speeds?