Ignition lock cylinder removal tool make?

[Gene in NC]

Ignition lock cylinder removal tool make? If I could find a moderately stiff wire of the right diameter I could make the tool. Lock shop had a collection of "wires" with a long taper on one side. With stiff wire of right size I could file the taper and be in business.

Need to make a tool to r&r ignition locks on '89 525s to diagnose problem. Problem is key won't turn all the way to start. Bypass is to use remote starter switch to actuate starter, or to rig a starter button which would be a "way cool".

Lock shop removed lock cylinder and when I reinstalled it the starter position worked but key wouldn't come out of the ignition. Later, suddenly the key came out of the ignition but on reinsertion went back to start position OK but key not removable from lock. Today it came out of the lock but returned to no start position mode.

Have second '89 525 and a new lock set. With the new lock uninstalled and a heavy duty paper clip, the spring loaded retainer will move but apparently not enough to clear so the lock will pull out.

Had very confident response to earlier post that problem was the housing that the lockset and ignition switch fit into on the steering column. That tip may be right, but I want to make sure.

New lock set sounds like simple solution but doesn't come "keyed" to the original. Separate keys for doors and ignition is a PIA.

Open to any suggestion but a working method to r&r the lock cylinders would give the most effective way to diagnose/solve the problem, especially if it is not the lock cylinder, but the housing.

[Omega]

I used the heavy duty paperclip and a light hammer. Insert the paperclip and lightly - and I do mean lightly - tap the lock tubing on the steering column. I didn't tap the lock. This free'd the retainer tab enough to free the lock. If you hit it hard, you will break something and be in a whole world of trouble.



Once the barrel is out DO NOT put it back in. Get a new one, it is not really a servicable part. If you are sure the locks are original BMW will supply a keyed ignition barrel based on the VIN. Not too expensive either.

If you suspect the housing remove the barrel and start the car using a screwdriver, although I can't see this being the cause. Be careful as the steering lock can still actuate so DO NOT DRIVE with the barrel removed.

I suspect your steering lock assembly is damaged or broken causing the key issues.

.

[Ross]

Your problem definately sounds like the lock mechanism. I used a small hex key to remove my key cylinder. Finding the right position for removal was difficult with the lock all buggered up.

[Kalevera]

Have second '89 525 and a new lock set. With the new lock uninstalled and a heavy duty paper clip, the spring loaded retainer will move but apparently not enough to clear so the lock will pull out.

Not enough of a bend on the end of the clip, I would guess. Sometimes they can take jiggling to get out. If the tab is broken and the cylinder completely freewheels, the problem is that the key can't be turned 60 degrees to get the cylinder to the point where it will release with the pin. Fairly common problem on E36s. At that point, you need a new steering lock assembly.




Had very confident response to earlier post that problem was the housing that the lockset and ignition switch fit into on the steering column. That tip may be right, but I want to make sure.


I have seen changes in production of the cylinders, but the particular difference that I am thinking of didn't allow the cylinder to be installed in the steering lock.



New lock set sounds like simple solution but doesn't come "keyed" to the original. Separate keys for doors and ignition is a PIA.

Open to any suggestion but a working method to r&r the lock cylinders would give the most effective way to diagnose/solve the problem, especially if it is not the lock cylinder, but the housing.

Well, a used lock set wouldn't come keyed to the original. All cylinders in the car except for the ignition can be rebuilt and coded to work with an existing ignition key. If you need to replace the ignition cylinder, and it sounds like you do, buy a new one from the dealer.

[bubba966]

I just replaced my lock cylinder (along with the ignition switch) and couldn't get the damn thing out using the proper pin/stiff wire method. And trust me, I tried to use that method using various large paper clips, a bobby pin, a welding tip cleaner (that was the best thing to use). But after many, many, many hours of trying all of those I decided to try something different.

I grabbed the Dremel and cut off the outer metal ring that's on the end of the ignition cylinder. After cutting that ring off you can pull the guts out of the cylinder and use a small screwdriver to pull on the cylinder release from inside the cylinder.

That method works great, but it destroys the ignition cylinder.

I need to now replace the ignition lock as neither the cylinder nor the switch was causing my problem.

Unfortunately I can't find any info on how it's done, and no one has answered my question on how to take the damn thing out.

I can tell you that I will be drilling a hole in the ignition lock where the release button on the ignition cylinder is. That way I can insert something through the hole (nail, etc.) to push directly down on the release button rather than trying to slide a wire over top of the button to release it (as BMW intended it to be done). Not only will that make it a lot easier to pull the cylinder out should it ever need to be done again, but it will also be possible to pull the cylinder out even if you can't get the key turned over to the proper spot for the wire method to work.


Would love it if someone could tell me how to get the damn steering lock out so I can put the new one in and drive my M-Sport again...

[winfred]

a .050 allen wrench works as good as the real tool, i prefer the allen