A few issues with my 535i

[Dave M]

Where in Canada are you? Just curious. I haven't heard of many block heater installs on these things, did you (or previous owner) remove a frost plug or is it an in-line heater? Either way, I can't see a block heater causing your starting problem.

I agree that it sounds like a fuel pressure issue. If you don't have a very small leak, which I assume you'd smell, then the system may be losing more pressure than it should. I currently have another vehicle with a fuel leak that takes it time starting as pressure needs to build from a lower starting point. You can use a fuel pressure tester to see how long the system holds pressure after shut down. Not sure if Bentley has the figures for this, but they should be out there somewhere. Ross indicated fuel injectors. I'd be inclined to pull some spark plugs after the cars been sitting a while and check for fuel. Aslo try this after a few cranks when it doesn't want to start.

If the M30 is much like the M50 with regard to engine management,the coolant temp sensor 'should' not affect starting. I've started my M50 with it unplugged.

Dave M

[Dave M]

I think my comp is friggin redarted or somfing. It seems like my posts are consistently all over the place. Are others as bad off as me?

[emil]

Hey everyone,

I've been having a couple issues with my E34 535i that hopefully some of you can help me out with:

1) If the engine is warm, the car cranks for two or three seconds before it actually starts. I've already installed the check valve, but that doesn't seem to have fixed the problem. It's very apparent when I try to start the car in the cold after having the block heater keep the engine warm overnight. Could it be the coolant temperature sensor? If so, which one is the one that needs replacing?

2) Below 1/3 of a tank of gas, the fuel gauge isn't very accurate. It goes up and down at random, and sometimes falls down to empty and stays there, even when I still have 1/4 of a tank of gas left. My guess is that it's the fuel tank level sender, and if it is, is it difficult to replace/repair?

3) I've noticed a bit of a gap between the drivers end of the front grill piece (under the headlamps and side marker) and the front of the fender, along where they mate up with the front bumper. I've also noticed this on several other E34s. Is there a simple adjustment that can be made? Or does this just happen over time?

4) I need to replace the gauge cluster capacitors. It's for a very early build E34 (10/88). Are there any specific capacitors that I need to use to replace the ones in there currently because this is an early build car?

Pic of the car for reference:

http://www.epiccentre.com/635/535.jpg

Thanks!
-Emil

[Ross]

1. Check for fuel pressure in the rail. Maybe an injector is leaking and causing a loss of pressure and a flooded condition in one or more cylinders. If you suspect the block heater is confusing the computer try not using it.
2. Sounds like the sender to me also.
3. The metal snaps onto the plastic grille, chances are a tab or two are broken off. Remove the whole works and you'll see how it goes. It's easy to dummy it up if a few tabs are busted.
4. The capacitor replacement is covered on the forum if you search cluter capacitors.

[emil]

Where in Canada are you? Just curious. I haven't heard of many block heater installs on these things, did you (or previous owner) remove a frost plug or is it an in-line heater? Either way, I can't see a block heater causing your starting problem.

I agree that it sounds like a fuel pressure issue. If you don't have a very small leak, which I assume you'd smell, then the system may be losing more pressure than it should. I currently have another vehicle with a fuel leak that takes it time starting as pressure needs to build from a lower starting point. You can use a fuel pressure tester to see how long the system holds pressure after shut down. Not sure if Bentley has the figures for this, but they should be out there somewhere. Ross indicated fuel injectors. I'd be inclined to pull some spark plugs after the cars been sitting a while and check for fuel. Aslo try this after a few cranks when it doesn't want to start.

If the M30 is much like the M50 with regard to engine management,the coolant temp sensor 'should' not affect starting. I've started my M50 with it unplugged.

Dave M

I'm actually from Winnipeg; right next door to Thunder Bay (the car came from Vancouver). Birchwood BMW ordered me up an M20/M30 block heater (knocked out the freeze plug) and installed it, and everything has been working the way it should be. If you'd like, I can find out the part number for it and post it up.

The car's got about 170k km on it, so it's probably just old, leaking injectors. I was planning on replacing them soon anyways, so this may be a good opportunity.

-Emil

[Dave M]

I'm actually from Winnipeg; right next door to Thunder Bay (the car came from Vancouver). Birchwood BMW ordered me up an M20/M30 block heater (knocked out the freeze plug) and installed it, and everything has been working the way it should be. If you'd like, I can find out the part number for it and post it up.

The car's got about 170k km on it, so it's probably just old, leaking injectors. I was planning on replacing them soon anyways, so this may be a good opportunity.

-Emil

Yeah, right around the corner for Manitoba/N. Ontario. I don't drive the e34 in the winter, so I don't get the pleasure of installing a block heater :D

Good luck hunting down the problem,

Oh, beautiful shark by the way.

Dave M

[timandbim]

hi emil - i have the same fuel guage problem, there is lots of info on this site already about changing the sender unit. before i mess with that i'm going to check the wiring and have a look at the connector just outside the tank, i'm just waiting for warmer weather. the resistance on that circuit increases as the fuel level decreases and i'm just wondering if there is some corrosion somewhere along the line that prevents continuity at high resistances. worth waiting to check i think, i try to keep the tank 1/2 full in winter anyway. i'm also wondering, if you are having a few other electrical issues, if it's worth checking your fuel pump relay re your starting problem? i don't really know 'bout that tho...