touring rear suspension

[edward]

gentlemen,

It has been a while since my last post as my car has been running quite well.
My latest problem on my 93 525it is that the rear suspension is horribly rough and now I am getting the leveling suspension error. I am looking for hints on where to start with this problem. I know this system is expensive to maintain, but scrapping it altogether I believe involves the purchase of knew struts. Also not cheap. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Edward

[CAPEBOY]

I would say ditch it. I converted mine last year and have zero regrets. I purchased M-tech springs from Maximillian along with all the associated parts to do the conversion for about the price of one accumulator. I can't recall the exact figures but it was very reasonable.

[Ross]

Agreed, yours outlived most.

[bad_manners_god]

I would say ditch it. I converted mine last year and have zero regrets. I purchased M-tech springs from Maximillian along with all the associated parts to do the conversion for about the price of one accumulator. I can't recall the exact figures but it was very reasonable.

Could you link me to his site, I'm in the middle of removing the accuators and all associated lines.

Can't believe I have to take half the interior out after I finished putting it back yesterday.

[edward]

I would say ditch it. I converted mine last year and have zero regrets. I purchased M-tech springs from Maximillian along with all the associated parts to do the conversion for about the price of one accumulator. I can't recall the exact figures but it was very reasonable.
Thanks for the reply capeboy. What is actually involved in the conversion parts wise.


Thanks, Edward

[bad_manners_god]

Thanks for the reply capeboy. What is actually involved in the conversion parts wise.


Thanks, Edward

1.) Change the shocks
2.) Connect the sending and return lines from the power steering resorvoir.
3.) OPTIONAL: If you want take out the old accumalators and all associated lines with it.
4.) Bypass the suspn leveling error you recieve.

CREDIT TO ATTACK EAGLE FOR THIS:


Let me de-mystify the SLS sensor for you. Despite all the info to the contrary, it's just a switch. In typical German fashion, a fancy switch with non-contact sensing (so it has an easy-to-define "on" band, and won't wear out under constant high-frequency suspension motions), but it's still just a switch output (technically an open-collector transistor switch output.)

The operation is very simple: Centered, the output is grounded. Too high or
too low (spec'd as suspension height +/- 10mm) and the output is open, pulled "high" (near 12V) by the instrument cluster input. You can easily check this circuit and sensor operation as follows:

1. The sensor passes through a 21-pin connector next to the battery under the rear seat. This is an easy place to probe. Looking at the back of the
connector where the wires coming out of the rear floor enter the connector, the 3 wires in the center row of pins on one end are the sensor wires, pins 12, 13, and 14. Pin 12 (three from the end of the middle row) is a black wire with brown stripe and yellow dashes -- this is the sensor output. The next pin (13) is the ground, and the end wire in the middle row (14) is +12V power. You can easily probe with a DVM in the back of the connector.

2. Turn the key to the first "on" position. You should see 11-12V on pin 12
with respect to ground, and 0V on pin 14.

3. Turn key one more click to the "run" position.
STOCK: With car at nominal height, you should now see ~0V on pin 12 (~.35V) and +12V on pin 14.

LOWERED: If your car is lowered very much you will see voltage on pin 12 still. -A/E

4. STOCK: Jack up the right rear of the car, and at some large height, the output on pin 12 will rise suddenly to near 12V again.

LOWERED: Jack up the differential carefully by an inch or two to simulate "stock" ride height, you will notice that the voltage on 12 has now dropped to ~0V. -A/E

5. STOCK: Lowering the jack should bring pin 12 back "low". If you load the car enough, you can trip the sensor to "high" state again. You can also undo the one 10mm bolt holding the sensor on (leave linkage attached) and turn the sensor to see the above readings.

LOWERED: Lowering the jack will cause pin 12 to go back high again. -A/E


6. Cars with no SLS simply ground pin 12 to defeat the warning. You can do the same thing if you want to ignore the message if your sensor is bad and you don't want to replace it, or if your car is lowered with an SLS delete kit. You can simply place a jumper wire between the wires leading to pins 12 and 13.

-A/E

[shogun]

Plug the regulating valve at the outlet to the bombs, the Pentosin must circulate from front to rear and back, otherwise the power steering pump, which is in your case a dual pump, will be damaged.
http://www.bavauto.com/Assets/inst_pages/E32e34ElimKits.pdf

[fin]

For those that have eliminated your SLS, what becomes of the part that has the three hoses (22, 23 and 24) attached at the top-right of this REALOEM page.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HK23&mospid=47415&btnr=32_0679&hg=32&fg=20

This part is leaking and will be pulled/repaired this weekend. It ties into the ASC+T somehow, but what does it really do???? Power the braking of the rear wheels when ASC+T activates???

Pelican Parts has touring spring/shock set currently. So this isn't a complete hi-jack.

Cheers,

Fin